Printable Fidget Cube

by drjames, published

Printable Fidget Cube by drjames Jan 16, 2017


Design Tools

DesignSpark Mechanical

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

31062Views 5390Downloads Found in Toys & Games



This is my version of a printable fidget Cube. It is fully printable excluding the five buttons.

Full credit for the Fidget Cube-idea goes to Antsy Labs (https://www.antsylabs.com/) who ran a very successful kickstarter campaign. My design is just loosely based on the real fidget cube and borrows other design ideas from similar designs uploaded here on thingiverse, including:

Twitch Block by MatterHackers (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798009)
Fidget Cube by CThig (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1844556)
Fidget Cube replica by dudu_abdu (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1859311)

Please have a look at their designs as well!

Required Items

  1. A set of printed parts (See HowTo)
  2. Four 6 x 6 x 5mm tact switches (like these: https://goo.gl/QX8TDc)
  3. One 8.5 x 8.5mm latching push button (like these: https://goo.gl/PLje5V)
  4. Glue suitable for your filament of choice.


  1. Print each of the three files. Cube and caps with 20% infill, no support, "things" (Buttons, wheel, etc.) with 50% infill, no support.
  2. Clean prints as best as possible by filing, sanding, etc. This is important, as there are some pretty steep overhangs in this design.
  3. Insert switches and buttons into their respective holes and cover with printed buttons. (Most probably you need to remove the pins/contacts from your buttons to make them fit)
  4. Use a piece of 1.75mm Filament as axle for the gear wheels. Push through from maze side to rocker-switch side of the cube.
  5. Push in the printed rocker switch
  6. Insert sliding knob into maze by pulling the maze cap slightly upwards

If all goes well (Test/break in all moving parts until they move freely) you should glue the six caps on to keep them in place.

Be careful not to glue any buttons/sliders in place permanently!

Have fun :D

More from Toys & Games

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Just printed mine, I think you don't mention on the description how to hold the 2 spinning wheels. I guess it's some clip going thru to hold them, but the hole for that is open both sides. Should we just glue it in place?
PS: A little change I would make is to make the "pegs" on the plates bigger, or the holes in the cube smaller, so it's a tighter fit.

Hey, the spinning wheels can be fixed with a piece of 1.75mm filament used as an axle. See "HowTo" section 4.

As for the pegs and holes: It is a good tight fit when printed with my printer. If i remember correctly, they have 0.15mm clearance, which is mostly good for my printer but can vary on other printers. Maybe changing print settings can improve it a bit.

Thanks for your feedback and i hope to see a "make" picture from you soon! :-)

Ahh thanks, missed that on the description :P

Yes working on it :D I will for sure post a photo when done ;)

Comments deleted.

Make moor then this OK other wise it is cool.

ok, but only 42r1 and with sticks!

I cant seem to get the toggle switch to snap in place. Any ideas?

Hey, is the fit too tight or too loose? Either way, you could try to scale it up/down uniformly or try to calibrate your printer and filament to make it match the correct radius. There should be about .2mm tolerance between the cylinder and the hole.

That said, when i print something like this i rather like it printed a little bit too small, so that i can file down the hole by hand to get a tight but smooth fit. I also use a drop of synthetic oil to make it rock perfectly.

Hope that helps, looking forward to your make/pictures :-)

luckily using a more accurate printer worked. thanks!

Hey, thanks for your feedback! Glad that it worked for you. Have fun :D

sadly i do not own the printers. they belong to my school so i am not allowed to calibrate them. i could try reprinting it on the more accurate printer or scaling it up though. thanks for the tips.

Is the circle metal button for the maze? I printed a cube but it's not finished yet.

The one that looks a bit like a mushroom is for the maze, did you mean that?

Can you upload the "things" individually please? I really need to just print the toggle switch again.

Hey, thanks for your comment! What kind of slicer do you use? Most slicers have an option to split contents of a STL (Simplify3D, Repetier Host, etc.) If you really don't manage to split them please send me a message and i will upload the files somewhere else. (I don't like to clutter up the download -section with too many STLs)

Thank you! I use Cura 2.5. The option to ungroup models is grayed out. I also dont like to see the download section cluttered, so I understand what you mean. What am I missing on splitting the STL?

Hi, i don't use Cura directly but use Repetier Host as a frontend. Here i can click on each STL and select "split up". I think the "ungroup" function in Cura is only for when you have manually grouped different STLs before or something.
I have now added a ZIP file in the download section that contains all "things" separated. Sorry i didn't have time to rename them so you'll have to look for the right file :-D

Anyone seen this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2228438? Seems to be using models from this one and pics from the og with no changes or accreditation...

Hey, thanks for your comment! The cube you linked by CThig is in fact one of the designs i based my thing on. Full info is in my description.

Sorry, i put the wrong URL, updated in original comment.

Oh wow - you are right, that is really a blatant knockoff of my cube. Thanks for informing me. I don't have a problem with people remixing my design, but just copying my files without credit and even changing the license type from "share-alike" to "no derivatives" is kind of sad.

hi I was just wondering if it would be best to print it with or without the rafts. Also, if I use different switches and stuff that are the same size but not the same as the ones you used will that work? Thanks.

Hi! I printed mine without raft or brim, but i think it doesn't really matter. You will probably not get the face plates off of a raft though, because they are so thin. Regarding the buttons: as long as the fit inside the holes and are the right height to get them to trigger it should work. You probably need to cut away some/all of the button legs to make it work, but you can test everyting before glueing them in. Thanks and happy printing :D

Just the thing for my boyfriend who just can't help but fidget :) I will be printing a few of these to give to friends too..thanks so much for uploading the design!

Thank you for your comment! I'm looking forward to pictures of your prints :-)

I would like to print some for an upcoming charity event that I'm going to in June, would this be ok? it's to help raise money for a little girl with special needs. :)

Hey! Sure, no problem as long as it is non-commercial. I hope your prints come out well :-) have fun!

I had to snip the contacts and the tip of the latching switch to get the button to fit over it when the faceplate was installed. Did anyone else have to do that?

Hey, thanks for your feedback! Did you get the exact ones i linked in the description? I only had do cut the contact pins (that was by design, to prevent the button from sinking in after some use).

I really love the blue and green you used on the cube on the left. What brand/colors are those?

Hey, thanks :) I used eSun "glass light blue" PLA and "transparent green" PETG from 3DPSP.de

I just took the springs out of a few pens instead of using the switches, the feel is probably not a nice but I did not feel like ordering anything...
Awesome design!

Good Idea! Thanks for your feedback :)

Hey I really like the design! Sorry, but my name is CThig not CThing. Also, could you remix this from the three people you got ideas from? It is just for being courteous to others. Thanks!

Hello! Wow I'm really sorry I got your name wrong! I have corrected it now. As for marking my thing as a remix of the other designs: I originally decided against it because I didn't want to "hijack" views by linking up with so many things. Thank you for your message and your cube design! :)

Will a smaller button like a 6x6x4.3 work?

Yes, i think it will - as long as you manage to glue it in place so that it does not go in too far. Should work with a little bit of hotglue or some kind of putty.

Hola me gusta tu diseño
Hallo ich mag dein design

Grazie mille :)

.step? Please and thank you

Hey, this is done in designspark mechanical which does not support STEP/IGES export. I can provide the .rsdoc file if that would help.

how do you secure the gears into the cube, it has holes in the center cube and the gears but doesn't mention any way to secure it

never mind, after thoroughly reading the how to I saw how you do.

Hi, a piece of 1.75mm Filament works nicely. Please share a make if you built it, thanks!