TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder

by filamentry, published

TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder by filamentry Jan 19, 2017
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Introducing TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder v.2. I was using a regular spool holder. Not the most convenient design, if you ask me, because It takes some time to replace the roll. Also, based on 608 bearings, It gives more than requested length of filament since there is no traction. That's why I designed this Ultimate Spool Holder. It is simple, easy, sexy and comfy.
For one spool holder you will need to print four pieces of this. Also, you will need four 608 bearings. Get the cheapest ones. They are available everywhere. This is press-fit design. Just press the bearings into the printed part, and voila, you have The Ultimate Spool Holder! Congratulations!

UPDATE: Version 2 uploaded
This is exactly the same TUSH. Just some fixes. Now Simplify3D ans slic3r should be happy with the model. Cheers!

Print Settings


Anet A8









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Great little device. At least for me the tolerances were a little tight (I had to use a hammer to get the bearings to sit on the posts), but otherwise great solution. The only addition that I would personally like is a bottom spacer to hold the two tracks together. However, I realize that defeats the purpose of making this customizable to any spool you place on the rails. Definitely will be printing a second pair for my second extruder.

Works great for me at .2mm and 20% infill as recommended.

Comments deleted.

So I printed this last night... and had several issues. What I got will do for the re-print run, but want to make sure I've got things right before trying again. One issue was preventable, the other not so much!

The first issue was that one of the pieces was mauled thanks to... twisted filament snapping! Which is why I'm printing a spool holder :P

The second issue I feel could well be a design problem - I couldn't get the parts to snap on to my bearings properly, which AFAICT are the correct 8mm ID (maybe a layer of coating extra?). Looking at the STL file, the pegs to hold the bearings are 7.98mm across - has basically zero built-in tolerance for difference between a 3d printed and manufactured part. Is this deliberate because most prints shrink somewhat?

I need to get a decent set of callipers so I can check whether I'm printing larger or over-extruding, but will have to add some tolerance as it's definitely not coming out smaller. I had to cut quite a bit off the pegs to get them in. I might try adding an X slot to the peg and cambering in the bottom somewhat so it can squeeze inwards if required.

Works excellent for me. This thing is by far better than holding a spool on a bar in a stand. Thanks for sharing! :-)

Thanks a lot for this. I made a variation special for Lulzbot Taz 6: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813307

Lulzbot Taz 6 spool holder

Does anyone else have problems with the last couple dozen feet of filament around the core yanking the spool off these? Really love the design and would hate an enclosed remix

As you get toward the center, the filament will have more and more wrap leverage against a lighter and lighter spool. Obvious first fix is the bearings up a bit further on the sides of the spool, so it's deeper between them. Obvious second fix would be a spool weight in the center. The outer wraps will still have tons of leverage to spin the higher inertia/friction, but the spool will still have enough weight to stay in place as the later, tighter wraps unwind..For the spools in the main picture, with the hole in the table, it would actually be better if the spool was over the hole, it would be pulling the spool down into the bearings..Just some ideas, would take a bit of playing around to come up with a good solution and still keep it simple..

Think a weight in the middle is the ticket thanks for the idea.

Sure, kind of problem I deal with a lot.. A weight should work for now but I hate the idea of needing an extra part and interfering with just 'throw a spool on, take a spool off'. So hoping a better idea will hit me eventually, but everything else I'm seeing ends up more complicated and not really worth doing..
For the weight, a sock filled with BBs or fishing weights would probably be easier to deal with than a solid weight. Ah, gravel or pebbles would be good, and a bag is usually $3 or $5 for the cheap stuff from Walmart or Lowes, just watch out for the fire brick stuff that is hollow and lightweight..

for me the easiest and "neatiest" (available? :-D) spool holder on the net.
no way... number one.

;-Dan from Italy

The best for me ! It works extremely great !

I loved the look and simplicity of this but I was worried it wouldn't stay in place without some help and it does in fact slide around and turn sideways if you use it as pictured. It does however snap perfectly onto the bearings which was a big surprise. I would never use this alone without some sort of support unless you're going to sit there and watch your print like a hawk.

I'm trying little rubber furniture bumpers to see if that keeps them from sliding.

IMPORTANT!!!! I just found some printable 608 bearings that work with these spool holders! I printed the 608 bearings on my Prusa MK2s at "Optimal" setting and the bearings work! I posted images in the "I Made One" section for the bearings. I am very excited because I love these spool holders and now I don't have to pay for bearings! Everything is now printable!!!!


Better 3D Printable Bearing

quick tip, mine wasn't working too well and the spool kept coming off, just hot glue the 2 pieces together and to the surface or to a board so that they can't slide around, works wonders

I just used some blue tape rolled around so it was "two-sided". The blue masking tape provides enough adhesion to keep the spool holders from moving. The blue tape is easy to remove when you want to do so.

Hi, nice idea! Can I use the bearings off fidget spinners, or where do I get cheap bearings?

Check your local roller skating rink, they use the same bearings in skates.

yes, you can. thats actually where i got mine from.
you can also find them on ebay, amazon or every hardware store in your area.

Pretty neat design! However, as with most other designs that rely on gravity, I'm not sure how this will hold up against when there's only around 20% filament remaining on the spool. Has anyone else experienced the spool getting getting out of the holder when the spool is almost empty?

Every time no matter what orientation I have the filament, can't have it above the machine that may solve it

Thought so. I have my spool placed on the same level as the UM2 and the filament is pulled upwards. You're right, perhaps a downward pull (like in the picture) might solve the issue but I can't do that on the UM2.

Nope probably have 5% of my spool left and I am not having problems with it getting out of it.

I've got some ABEC-11 bearings lying around, you think those are overkill?


I really like this and works absolutely great for me as well! Unfortunately I had to slice them in half, then glue them together as my printer is not big enough to print the object, however this does not cause any problems so far. It works like a charm! Thank you! :)

If you have a bad setup the seams on the cylinder where the bearings go in can actually help - they add a bit of friction so the bearings can 'clip' in. So don't trim the seams off 100% if you have them. When I printed it the friction from the seams was enough to hold the two halves together.

Hi, I ripped apart a fidget spinner for the bearings i got 3 gunmetal coloured and 1 steel bearing They are really cheap. got one for 99p.

OH!!! Very good ! I want to do the same, thanks :)

Forgot to take pictures but I love this, it's a great low-profile spool holder!

nice work! thanks for sharing your work.

Nice, I used my soldering iron and slide it over the seam on the bottom and the inside to fuse the 2 parts together. Saves you some glue. :P

Perfect design. Love the simplicity

Thanks so much for this design...
Elegant, simple and very clever!

I have a stack of 606 bearings laying around. Could I just scale it down to use them or there is a remix already made that uses 606? Thanks for help!

I printed one set and I love that it's minimalist. The overhead reel holder too costly (PLA used), adds to the structural weight and is a long print.

You can use spinner bearings (buy the actually cheap spinner). I have my reel on the same table as the printer.

Just printed these and they're great!
I'm going to put them on a shelf above my printer and wondered where I can get the filament guide to fit in a hole as you show in the picture?

I'm sorry for the late response... Here It is: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047638

Filament guide for IKEA STUVA enclosure (30mm thickness, 26mm hole diameter)

I had to use a vise to press fit the bearings in place. It could be due to my printer's tolerances and not the design of the shaft themselves.
Either way I would rather have the parts clamped together tightly so they don't come apart during a print. Highly recommended!

I made a set out of ABS and the shaft diameters were a tiny bit too small. The bearings didnt have any slop but they fell off easily. I just drilled a hole through the shafts and used a #6 machine screw to hold it all together. Works great. Im glad I made this spool holder.

Probably this is due to ABS shrinkage. You can try scaling the object up to 101 or 102%...

Does anyone have a version that uses imperial measurement bearings? I've spent 2 days searching for 608 but I live in America where we use stupid imperial measurements for all hardware. Nowhere carries these. I know I could order online but I was trying to get this done this weekend and am impatient.
Did I mention how stupid we are for not using metric in the states.

608 Bearings are sold everywhere. They are the bearings used for most standard skateboards, and they are especially easy to find nowadays because of the fidget spinner craze

You can buy them online from amazon. just search 608zz or 608 bearing

608ZZ bearings are standard skateboard bearings and should be available anywhere in the world even if you have been trumped and live in the states. Converted to imperial is as follows, ID 8mm = 5/16 or 0.31 in, OD 22mm = 55/64 or 0.87 in, width 7mm = 9/32 or 0.28 in. Hope that helps. By the way it is the governing bodies that make the rules, not you, and lets face it beaucrats the world over seem to have completed a degree in incompetence.

Trump has NOTHING to do with us using imperial measurements, keep politics out of it.

I love how defensive people get over he Trumpet. ;D ;D

Just making a joke, and not being at all political.

I though it was a nice little joke but I have not been...you know""...shhhhhhhh!!!!!

nudge, nudge, wink, wink, mum's the word !!!!!

works great, except; some spools are not smooth at all, i have some spools which have the notches from injection molding on the outside of the spool. This causes the spool to turn difficult on some portions..

Just get a sponge sanding block and lightly sand the edges.

Hey @filamentry, I just did a remix of this that you might like. I would be very curious of what you think. It is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2451368

YAFR (Yet Another Filament Roller)

Works perfect ! very cool. Thanks alot :)

Thanks for this! I made set and they seem to work just fine. Ordered bearings from Ebay - 30 for about $12. I ordered so many because I need to make 4 pairs for my Prusa MK2.

On the stock MK2, there is just one filament reel and that is mounted on top of the machine. However, I recently upgraded to the new Prusa "multi-material" version that can use up to 4 filaments and automatically switch back and forth. In this case, the 4 filaments reside at the rear of the machine on the desk. In the Prusa design, the reel sits on a rod connected to the "centers" of two bearings with the outside races fixed so they can't move. I suppose that this design allows use of reels of different widths without holder adjustment.

However, I think the Prusa holder design does not allow the reels to rotate smoothly enough. Maybe there is a bearing/rod alignment issue or maybe the rod is actually "bent" a little. Or maybe there is a "friction" issue between the rod and the reel. In any case, If there is too much tension in the filament because the reel cannot turn easily, the filament can be "ground up" by the knurled feed roller and printing stops.

While I have yet to try your design in actual printing, a "manual" test shows me that the reel turns more freely with this design. As another reader suggested, maybe the two halves should be somehow connected. In my case, I need to figure out how to "gang up" 4 sets so they aren't running all over my desk. I'll probably wind up re-mixing your design in some way. But, thanks to your design, I have some ideas!

Tried this and they constantly fall apart once a spool is placed on top. Apparently glue is needed?

Glue or printer calibration.

Wow, I should have tried this way sooner.. Smooth and works great.

Works great thanks. I have the reels with the filament coming out clockwise from the bottom. Between the gap is a sponge which the filament runs over, just to help take the dust off of it. I've also bolted the 2 sides of each together with M3 hardware and double sided tape on the bottom to stick them in place on the shelf.

Excellent! Thanks for your work.I printed with cube 3D and worked like a charm!!!

Excellent design, the best I found so far, fits all sizes of spools and works like a cham with 4 simple abec 1 bearings

Made this today and saw an immediate improvement in print quality over the spool holder that comes with the Anet A8. Nice, simple design that is versatile enough that I won't need a new one when I decide to make an enclosure.

Thanks for designing this, I wasn't a huge fan of the usual ones people tend to suggest.

I created a remix with the bearing mount diameter reduced from 8.0mm to 7.8mm. On the original version the mounts are too big, so my bearings don't fit. Thanks for the good work!

TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder (Bigger hole tolerances)

With mine I have to apply a ton of pressure to snap it in place, but it does fit. (8mm version)

I just bought these and it doesn't seem that they would work. They are all covered in grease and don't spin freely at all. I might as well just put the end of the spool on a wooden dowel. Did those bearings work for you?

To remove that grease use a sharp knife and pop off that metal cover (don't worry about bending it because it is not useful for non-skateboard uses and will be thrown away) then wipe away the excess with a paper towel then soak the bearing in rubbing alcohol. If you were making fidget spinners you would then spray brake cleaner on them to dissolve the remaining grease but for this you don't really want them to spin that well :)

WOW! Really cheap!!! :)

yes indeed Bought 20 for 3.32€ :) where even cheaper yesterday and where shipped today

No problem :) I'm editing your model so it can be used as prop without bearing just so it can be used to store spools :)

Great simple design that works great! Wish I had printed this when I first got my printer. Thank you

I made this and it works a treat. The barrels going through the bearing centres seem tight enough to hold the two halves together but I just used sellotape round the bottom to stop them splaying out.

I printed this for four spools and they work just fine.

Thank you for this great filament holder. I have tried others, but always found them to be awkward for changing filament. This does the job perfectly with zero fuss.
Thank you for sharing.

Something to consider; a tray of some sort to;

1) Keep the sides together (I hate using glue)
2) Lock in the two pair spacing such that you don't have to adjust every time a spool is moved

The concept is wonderful; I printed three sets (five if you count the two sets I gave away). I would just like the two sides to stay put, and for the spacing to be fixed for the spool (hope this makes sense). A single "H" type tray would do both functions nicely.

A single H type tray would lock in a specific width spool, and if you have separate ones you could vary the spool diameter.

I drilled 2 holes in each of the holders and used zip ties to hold them together tightly -- no glue required.

I took your suggesion, thank you! Simple fix, and hopefully the spool will keep the two "rails" the proper distance.

Still hoping for the "h" tray though :-).

Thank You so much for your wonderful design and Share...:)

Fantastic design! After making this, my high speed prints go much better. Thanks!

What does TUSH stand for, and if it isn't an acronym then how did it get that name?

TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder. :) It was suggested by a maker here in the comments. :)

I have problems with slicing. Cura slices this file but when it comes to printing there are some layer issues.

This is just a simple object. If you can print a simple calibration cube, you can print this. Just tweak you slicer's settings to match your printer and filament. :)

scaling is not working. anyway i designed similar one on solidworks, i will upload it under remix section soon. thanks.

Really nice. Done and work perfectly.
Thank you

WOW. These work amazing.

Hi, printed this spool holder first thing I got my Prusa MK2S. But there seems to be a problem printing with infill on the long edge (Layers >3mm Z height) with Slicer:

I used 0.2mm Z with PLA and 3 perimeter lines. On this long edge slicer tried to put infill inside, resulting in a lot of material squeezed in between the three perimeter lines. After 3-4 Layers the nozzle would collide with material build-up and eventually bind on the X-rail skipping steps. On my first try it worked, but you could see hints to this in a bad surface finish. I wanted to print a second TUSH (so 4 pieces more), but now, after the second try at Z height of 4.6 to 5.0 mm the X-achsis skips steps.

I will try to print with the same settings, but 4 perimeter lines. In Slicer the wired infill is gone this way...

I printed this, and have been using it - worked great until you get low on filament - then the spool is light enough it can roll right off!

I personally don't have such problem.

You don't have this problem, because - as shown in the photo - you roll off the filament downwards.
That way, the tare on the filament will push the roll always into the TUSH.
If you place the TUSH besides your printer and roll off to an extruder that's higer than the roll, the roll weight is crucial: as soon as there's only a little bit of filament on the roll (and the whole thing gets lighter) the extruder may pull the roll off the TUSH (or crash it).

There's a quick fix for that: put something heavy in the center of the spool to increase the weight, therefore stabilizing it.

Is there a simple solution to this? Does TUSH need a deeper groove?

Great design! Printed it in PETG :)

by far the best one yet. I have wasted so much time and plastic trying to print various spool holders. This one should have been my first one as it would have been my only one.

Couldn't agree more!

WOW! Thanks! :)

I'd love to print this out..but I need a spool holder to print this spool holder =( (mine just broke lol)

Two books and a pencil, or similar... should be enough to get a proper holder printed.

Looks like a great spool holder. I'm looking for bearings and the 608 seem to come in 7mm or 8mm bore. Does it matter which ones I use?

If it's not an 8mm inner hole, it's not a 608 bearing.

8mm internal, 22mm external. :)

Perfect, thanks for the thing !!!!

Works flawless !!!

You are welcome! :)

What are good values for the wall thickness and top/bottom thickness? will 0.8mm be ok?

Yes. This design is very forgivable. You can print it with almost any settings and material. That's why TUSH is so great. :)

Great work just what I was looking for. Gotta link for the printed grommet?

Filament guide for IKEA STUVA enclosure (30mm thickness, 26mm hole diameter)

Very nice design. I looked at a lot of different ones, but this one looked perfect for what I wanted.

I sliced it with Slic3r and printed using ABS. Slapped some bearings on it and it's working great!

I used Slic3r to generate the gCode and also got load of errors...1086 in all but they did 'Auto repair'

I could send the repaired gCode to anyone who wants it?

Thought I would try and print it anyway but with limited success, think it is too close
to the limits of my print bed (I have a Fisher Delta 3D)

Actually, this was my first SketchUp project. :) It is very likely that I have some mistakes. :) The sketchup project file is attached. If someone can check what's wrong with It, I will be thankfull. For me It is visually good and prints good with Cura. :)

There are a few extra faces inside the model that need deleting (if you delete the back face you can see the circles are filled in, not hollow) and I think I read somewhere that all faces should be the same way around (all white or all grey on the outside) for 3d printing as it can cause errors. This is easy to do by selecting the faces you want to flip and right click and go to reverse faces. I've only just got a printer so don't know much about slicers at all but have been using sketchup for a while.

Thank you! I will try! :)

I am learning too :)

I have been using OpenSCAD to do my designs but I will see of I can download SketchUp and try this.

Think my problem is with my printer rather than the model since Slic3r manages to repair it? The print bed is circular,
150mm diameter and I have had problems with other models that come close to the edge!



I've uploaded a second version. Now It should be OK with slic3r and S3D. :)

Thank you - yes, no more errors with Slic3r :)

Loaded the STL file in Simplify3D and the mesh seems broken at several locations. Some triangles (including both cylinders) are facing the wrong around. Neither the auto healing nor the repair options are able to fix it.

Thank you! It was made with SketchUp + Cura. I will try to fix It.

I've uploaded a second version. Now It should be OK with slic3r and S3D. :)

I've found a problem with a new roll. The filament fills all inside space of the roll. Thus It cannot enter in the holder channel, or cannot rotate freely. Also, If the new filament unwinds and fall down on a side, It can cause a very nasty mess...

Printed :) I would love to see something that connected the two sides together just to make the whole thing a bit more stable. What about an optional flat section along the ground in the middle that clipped the two sides together and then also helped clamp the bottom parts of the sides together. So like some sort of jigsaw puzzle type fit on each side.

The problem here is that there are different spools (different width), so It has to be adjustable. It is another step in the process and another parts involved. I want to keep It simple...

I'm considering a second version ;)... There are a bunch of possible variations, each with its advantages and downsides. I want it to be:

  1. Simple and easy to print
  2. Simple and easy to use
  3. Minimalistic
  4. Universal
  5. Stable
  6. Sexy (nice looking)

Any suggestion that fits in these guidelines is highly appreciated! :) Yours - too. :)

This remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2271958 solves 5 beautifully without compromising 1-4, which you already have very well covered.

TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder with stabilizer tab

OK so I think you have 1, 2, 3, 4 covered :)

  1. Perhaps you could add the letters TUSH somewhere into the design?

  2. I'm still thinking about this but could you have some sort of flat piece with inserts or risers every 10mm?

5.5 If you don't connect the parts what about a flat disk to fit under each of the runners to help connect the two sides together. This would still be universal but provide the stability?

Thank you thebeetleuk! Actually, DO yo know, if there a standard for roll sizes? Or every maker has its own?

Good question. I have 3 rolls here all from different people and they range in size from 75mm to 100mm. so it looks like its a range.

I have something similar to this on my machine at the moment.


The barrel with the concave surface is great. Keeps the spool in the middle. Mine is 140mm long and will hold any spool. The only down side to this is you need to print another part as its not as simple as your design.

Yes, I've seen this design, and I like It very much! Probably I can make an upgrade with two cylinders as you suggested. :) It will keep TUSH in the minimalistic style. Now you have to print 4 parts. The you will have to print 4 parts again - 2 holders and two cylinders. Great! Thanks!

Why didn't you call this "TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder"?

Would be the perfect name.

OK, THANKS! It Is called TUSH from now on! :) :) :)

Just wondering if you have the design for the filament guide piece.

Filament guide for IKEA STUVA enclosure (30mm thickness, 26mm hole diameter)

Yes, but It is not customisable and fits my IKEA enclosure and my drill ;). Height of the insert is 30mm, hole diameter - 26 mm. If you can use it, I can send It to you.

Could you send the file to me as well?

Filament guide for IKEA STUVA enclosure (30mm thickness, 26mm hole diameter)