Stage-inspired LED Spotlight

by Depronized, published

Stage-inspired LED Spotlight by Depronized Jan 20, 2017


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IMPORTANT!! turn the parts as shown in the picture from Cura (yellow parts) before printing! That way you don't need any supports.

Update 06/01/2018
Added a bigger version of the back end to accommodate electronics. This version also has a modified front end in the two lengths, where the inner diameter is increased to 22,5mm to accommodate for this lens: https://www.ebay.com/itm/251962202709
Please note that I have not tested this update myself as I'm out traveling so please let me know if there is any problem with the design.

Update 16/4/2017
Chad_R made an addon to secure the LED in the cabinet:

I wanted spotlights for my 3D printer cabinet so I decided to draw stage-like spotlights in miniature. I use LED's from Hobbyking and run them on roughly 130mA without overheating.

Note! this LED is no longer available from Hobbyking. I don't have any recommendations because I don't want to post links to something that I haven't bought and tested. Please look at the various makes of this spot and check if you can find a link or suggestion. Otherwise you should be able to find many good alternatives on ebay and other sources.

It is designed to be printed with the parts oriented as in the picture. I used Cura for slicing, and 0,2mm layer height turned out better than 0,1mm on my Prusa mk2 at 60mm printing speed, black PLA.

Note that the front and rear piece are purposely not press-fit as printers have different precision and it's easer to add a bit of for example melt glue to make them fit tight.

The cables are fed through the hole in the back, you need to use a knife to remove some material from the edges where the LED rests in order to keep the LED level.

I used heat glue for my LED's as I knew I wasn't going to push them very hard.
The holder uses M3 screws and because the holes go through the walls it can handle screws up to at least 18mm.

The front comes in two lengths depending on if you want a very narrow beam or a wide beam. I uses one of each in my printer cabinet, the short one illuminates the whole build plate from above, while the long narrow one focuses on the middle.

The plate in the front is primarily for looks but it can be used to hold colored plastic or you can design your own plate to shape the beam, for example if you want a square beam.

You can enhance the light output by for example using a focusing lens in front of the LED, and I presume coating the inside of the front piece with some highly reflective surface would increase the light output, but it would also widen the beam. Have fun!

Update 02-02-2017 - Added a mount that can be pushed down in flowerpots or in the ground.

Print Settings


Prusa i3 mk2









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Hey I noticed that LED that you linked from Hobby King are discontinued. Any info on another provider or another product that will fit in this model? Thanks!! I really love these little guys.

Thanks for letting me know! No, I don't have any recommendations right now, but if you look at the makes of this spotlight, you might find some links or source where it's bought. Do an ebay-search as well, I'm sure you can find many there.

looks great, but by any chance do you have a file of it on tinker cad

Hi, No unfortunately, I've never used that software.

Awesome Model! Would you (or anyone else) be willing to point me in a direction for properly powering that type of LED? I'm pretty green when it comes to electricity.

Do you have the dimensions of the electronics compartment handy? Looking at getting some MP1584EN voltage regs to step down each light from the 12v power supply to 3v requires on the LED. Want to make sure they’ll fit before I order.

Disregard...I answered my own question. Got home and printed up the electronics cover on the updated version. ~24mm x ~18mm in case anyone is interested. The part number I listed above should fit nicely.

Oh sorry for taking so long to reply, but good you found it. :D

Stage-inspired LED Spotlight (addition)

Nice! thanks for posting! However, could you post it as a remix? would be nice because then it would be easier to see that it exists for people that reads the page.

For the front piece - have you considered creating a version, that will allow for a lens to be mounted on top of the LED, e.g. https://www.ebay.com/itm/251962202709 (and the be pressed down onto the mounting/fixing plate for the LED) ?
If the source file(s) were available and made in Sketchup, I could probably try to "remix" it myself... Only having the STL file gives some challenges...

Thanks! that is a very interesting link! I looked at a couple of lenses, ut the reason for this project from the start was that I needed something to mount LED’s on in my printer cabinet, so I made these, printed them and installed two in the cabinet and project was done, I didn’t have much need of modifying it after that. It has not been designed in Sketchup. I have actually been thinking of creating a new version, maybe it’s finally time for that! :)

If you consider a re-design (or modifying) some of the parts, maybe the depth in the back part can be increased as well (the depth of the "hole") - so that a module like https://www.ebay.com/itm/112472497295 can be mounted inside. This will give greater flexibility regarding input voltage for the lamp, and the output voltage can be adjusted on the module so that the current will be limited by restricting the outout voltage of the module. Using a step-down regulator will minimize the generation of heat if supplying the LED lamp with 12V instead of 5V ...

Hi, yes that is an excelent suggestion! And even if not that exact board is used, space is nice as there are also ways of hooking them up to network and using RGB-LED’s and stuff.

I have been thinking.. there are 2 possible approaches to control the LED lamp. WS2811 chip is one - using DMX512 is another (oh - and a third option using an USB2Serial chip so that each lamp can show up as a Com port is also possible)... the main issue is getting enough space for the electronics..
WS2811 will require 2x3 pin - Vcc,SerialIn,Gnd, and Vcc,SerialOut,Gnd
DMX512 will require a bit more - 2x3 pin for DMX In/out, and then a 2 pin for power supply...

I know that 3W RGB LED's are available - hooking it up with a WS2811 chip would probably be possible (by adding extra transistors for the current for the LED).. A step-down regulator will probably still be required, if powering such a setup with more than 5V ...
I will try to get some 3 pin JST connectors (one for input, another for output - so they can be cascaded) and get a circuit created with a WS2811.
I need to create a prototype first - if that is successfull, I will probably try to put together a PCB - so that a step-down converter and the control circuit is located in the back part of the lamp..

Hi! I've done a mod now and uploaded it as a zip-file, (electornics bay mod) where I've included a bigger housing for electronics as well as I've enlarged the inner hole to accommodate this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/251962202709 based on the dimensions stated there (I've not tested it!). I did the inner hole 22,5mm diameter so should be fine. It's same diameter all the way out so you can adjust the position of the lens. I have not tested printing this and it's more challenging for the printing process due to the more complex shape, but please have a go with it and see if it's useful. :) (I included both lengths of the front extension with enlarged inner hole as well).

I will check up on it once my parts arrive from China. In the meantime I need to figure out if the rgb version should be controlled by DMX512 or via a WS2811 chip...

Hi again, sorry, I noticed a fault in the design so I uploaded a new one now! I also included a couple of pictures of the design so you can see what I've done.

Wonderful! Will make some once my printer is dialed in. And in the theatre world, this luminaire would be called an "ellipsoidal" or, if you are really old like me "Leko". Either way, well done. The next step is to fit it with an RGB led!

Glad you like it! :) yes, my desktop lamp just broke so I'm thinking of printing a bunch of these and a truss. Maybe time for a new version!

I really liked your project! You can make side curtains for the projector (4 pcs). I'm not strong in Solid Works. Thank you!!!

Thanks! yea, thought of making a bigger version, that would for sure have side curtains, no plans for that now though, lot's of other projects I'm working on.

i was even more amazed by the prusa housing you got there, wow i wit i had something like it

It's not rocket science, it is just a slightly hacked Ikea kitchen frame, or what it's called in english. :)

I made a frame to hang up the LED spotlight

Stage frame / truss

Nice!! I have a started project for a truss system but the trains have taken all my time lately. :)

Please check this article.
Vibration Damper for Prusa i3 mk2

Vibration Damper for Prusa i3 mk2

How many Volts do you feed them, and what do you use to turn the amp down? :)

The voltage depends on the color of the LED. The current can be controlled via a simple circuit with a couple of resistors and transistors (check http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/TheTransistorAmplifier/images/Fig71ba.gif).
Please observe, that some effect will be put in the tranststor - so if you run 130mA, you should probably consider a transistor like BC338... If you have a voltage drop of 6 volts over the transistor, and have 130mA, 0.78W will be generated in the transistor, and it need to be able to handle this.Another approach could be to use a resistor in series with the LED and the current-control circuit. That way some of the heat will be put in the resistor in series with the LED - limiting the heat generated by the power in the transistor...

BTW: I often use 0.6V as the contant when calculating the value of R .....

Let me know if you need further details on the calculation on the circuit...

100% infill sounds "a bit" much. Have you tested using less, and tried ABS or PETG if the heat was an issue?
Cheers :)

Hi, I guess this is a subject of personal taste. I printed all of mine with 100% infill and I like the solid feel of them, but there is nothing stopping you from trying whatever percentage you like, beauty of 3D-printing right? :)

Yea, true, but sometimes something is pointless :)
I just printed in PETG with 3 perimeters/borders and 25% infill at 255c. It's absolutely extremely hard and very solid feeling :)
0.2mm layers. 0.8mm top and bottom

Good! Pointless from structural point of view, yes of course! But mattets of personal taste cannot be pointless, it's just subjective. :) I like that they have some extra weight, so for me, yes I like'em fat and solid. :) But your tip on settings is always welcome so others have more options!

Hehe, ok. Just wanted to make sure if the reason was due to a head consideration :)

You should print in one of the metal materials. They are much heavier :)

Strange things happen to one part of the model.

==> https://1drv.ms/i/s!AgA9Rx7Ag4gGwOcNBV5gd18Dlg2k1Q

Prusa i3 MK2S PLA

Hi, looks like you didn't read the text on the info page! :D try turning the model as instructed and it will work.
"IMPORTANT!! turn the parts as shown in the picture from Cura (yellow parts) before printing! That way you don't need any supports."

Ahh always read the manual! :)

The print looks very good, and Im still learing, second day as a printer owner.

Thanks for a fast replay!

Awsome, Now i just need a Stage Rigg to mount the lights

Working on it. ;)

Thats Great!! Just waiting for my led lights to arrive :D

Really cool thank you for share, I got this leds so I'll make one for my printer


how did you realise the power supply? Can you use free Slots from board (prusa)?


I made a control box to control both ventilation and light from an Arduino. It has a temperature sensor in the roof of the cabinet and a large centrifugal fan takes care of ventilation through a active carbon filter to reduce smell. From the Arduino, I control the fan and the lights with PWM through a dual channel DC motor shield I found for the Arduino. The entire box is powered by a leftover HP laptop power supply.

Barbie strip club lighting?

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How warm does this get? I love the design having worked as a stage hand.

I really understand why you're asking as many powerful lighting systems get very hot. With this one it really depends on what you put in it of course, and how hard you run the LED's. I chose not to push mine to their rated power so the ones I have in the printer cabinet (in the pictures) doesn't even get warm, you can barely feel any change in temperature on the outside. To the other extreme, if you put very powerful LED's in them and run at full current you might get problem with the PLA deforming.

Comments deleted.

thank you for a great design, printed exceptionally well, having difficulty in keeping up with requests from friends and family.
Thanks again, keep up the great work.

No problem! :) glad you/they like it! I will for sure do some more lighting in the near future.

its like almost a source 4 but not quite

You found my source of inspiration. :) Allthoug it's not meant to be a scale model, it's just inspired by that one because it was the first thing that popped up in my google picture search when I looked for inspiration.

The Source 4 is pretty much the standard for stationary theater lighting. My high school uses them for pretty much everything, but they are also widely used in much larger theaters. This biggest reason is most likely that, unlike moving lights, they aren't crazy expensive. You can get a nice LED source 4 for around 3,000, but a decnt moving light is gonna cost you another 1,500, and for a really nice one, over 10,000. As you can see, Theatre can get expensive really, really fast.

Absolutly love this one!
Will print a few to light my Prusa i3 MK2.
Great work!

Glad you like it, I made it for the exact same purpose! :)

Great work. Any possibility of seeing it lit?

Hi, thanks :) I added a picture of it installed in my printer cabinet. It's really hard to take pictures of it lit as the contrast is so huge being a black piece against bright light. Worth noting that in the cabinet there's also another spot installed on the not visible side, pointing towards the print bed. In order to get this amount of light from the spot, I used aluminium foil on the inside of the spot. The only downside is that the beam gets a lot wider as you can see, so it's a trade off. Adding a lens would make it possible to focus all the light in a narrow beam, I haven't tried that yet. I would be glad if anyone could find and post a link to a suitable lens. :)

Nice indeed.

I think a lens would be counterproductive though, perhaps trying to salvage/scavenge reflectors from old or cheap dollar store flashlights could do the trick (possibly for lenses too if you're set on using them).

Looks good anyway.

The thing is that the LED is already so much focused forward from the start, where a old-style bulb is shining all over the place. A reflector is only taking care of light that shins sideways or just slightly forward, all the rest that shins on the forward walls of the spotlight tube would not be taken care of. A lens however would take care of that if it has the right design of course.

Glad you liked it, I will develop this concept further! :)

I may print some and see how they scale up. I work concerts from time to time (or at least did before my knees gave out) and I've always liked the look of the PARcans.

There's also always the solution of designing barn doors for it as is sometimes used on the real ones.

Nice thought, but barn doors would never be used on this - it is a profile, not a PAR can, so the real one has internal adjustable shutters! But it is an awesome design - I've no idea about how to wire up an LED in it, or what circuitry that would need, but as an object it is brilliant! (I run a stage lighting hire company, so this is a great little thing for me!) Thanks!

Thanks! Can you post a link to your homepage? maybe I can find inspiration there for the next version? :)

Nice Job, looks really nice
Thanks for sharing