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chemteacher628

BattleFleet Star Wars vs. Star Trek

by chemteacher628 Jan 21, 2017
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I just thought of an idea. What if you made a full imperial fleet (tie fighters, more star destroyers, deathstar) and a full rebel fleet (x-wings, a-wings, etc.) and then fight your friends that way. Or do something like that for star trek.

Has anyone made versions of the ships where the peg sizes are scaled down? I printed the boards over a few days and then found that the pegs wouldn't fit when printed at 100%; maybe because of how the different colors of filaments behave?

I can just scale down the white and red pegs, but if I scale down the ships, the distance between the pegs will be wrong and they won't fit :( I tried sanding but they just break off

One thing you could try is using Meshmixer or Fusion 360 to subtract a thin cylinder from the perimeter of each of the pegs on the ships.

Thanks for your response. That's what I'll probably end up doing, but the problem is when you import meshes into Fusion 360 to edit them, you end up having to lose a bunch of detail in order to work with them

please make an FTL:Faster Than Light expansion for this game)
it will be cool!
thanks :)

That might be a little bit more difficult due to not having a 3d render of the ships
Still would be absolutely awesome if he did it.

Hi everyone -

For those that commented, these DEFINITELY do not work in the standard / commercial game - just the boards shown here. I'll see if I can remix this so the pegs will fit a normal game board.

Hi Chemteacher,

I am currently in the process of making this. I keep seeing to use higher infill for the bottom board. At what percentage of infill did you use or recommend for both top and bottom boards? I read on another guys make that he used 50% for the bottom and it still wasn't enough weight to keep the board from sticking.

Can you clarify what you mean by "keep the board from sticking"?

My apologies, I meant to say, "keep the boards from tipping over?".

You shouldn't need to go quite that high on infill. On top cover, where it touches the table when open, there are two rectangular cutouts. Those are actually meant to be for an adapter that extends out to help it balance. I never ended up getting around to making one, but it shouldn't be too hard to make one that fits. The other option is to attach thin weights to the lower half of the case, near the back. That would probably help to keep it down.

Comments deleted.

Will these pieces fit on a battleship game board?

I actually made this when I couldn't find my own battleship set so I am not sure. They should be close though so you can scale them up or down a bit to fit.

I am going to print it.

I need use support in many pieces, it is hard

Too, what ship types i need print? In original game it is many ships, but in picture only one type each design.

Regards, thanks!

Hi :-) When I load the top board, it is at an angle and I can't rotate it to sit on the printer bed so that the view from the bottom is blue (the bottom board is fine). Any ideas on what to do? Thanks.

The answer depends on the slicer that you are using. The top should print fine with the outside surface flat on the bed. Some slicers will let you click the part of the print you want to touch the bed, while in others you have to rotate manually until the part lies flat.

I'm also having this issue. It seems no matter what I do, it's out ever so slightly. I've tried rotating it in Cura and in Meshmixer, but I cannot get that top piece to sit flat.

If you activate supports and place them under the flat area of the model, it should print fine. You can also adjust your bridging settings for longer distances and it should work.

Ok - thanks very much.

Great job with this project! I would love to make this as a gift for my husband.

My problem is it automatically reduces to 60% when loaded into Cura in order for it to fit my robo3d C2 printer? Will it be useable at that size? I'm at a loss as to what adjustments to make to print it full size. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks so much.

If you reduce the size of the pegs and ships by 60% as well it should work. You may want to just print a small portion of the board first though as a test before printing the entire thing. Additionally, because the posts on the pieces will be so much thinner, I reccomend printing them on their sides with at least three perimeters to add strength to them.

I printed the items at 60% but it's nearly impossible to clean up the smaller pieces without damaging, or even breaking off, the tiny pegs at the bottoms. Do you know of a way to print the board pieces in two parts then attach them, in other words each board would have 4 pieces - two combined to create the cover of each board, and 2 to create the bottom of the boards - for smaller printer plates?

Judging from the results seen from a 60% size reproduction - it is obviously a design worth printing and having which will provide a portable and compact form of enjoyment seemingly for quite some time. Unfortunately being new to the 3d printing community I question my ability to create such a variation without botching up the holes needed for playing in some way, or even knowing if it is at all possible to do so.

I would really appreciate your opinion of if the possibility of doing so even exists before i even attempt to tackle such a project.

Thanks so much for your past help and any future assistance you can provide.

You can definitely do that. You can use Meshmixer to cut the parts and then glue them together after they are printed. Here is a link to a tutorial on how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wzut-W2zTk.

Meshmixer can be found here: http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html

That's wonderful. Thanks so much for all your help and once again thanks for such a great item.

Hello. There i see some errors in my slicer on models:

Rebel_Transport.stl
Landspeeder.stl

Can you repair them please?

Please be more specific about what these errors are. Which slicer are you using as well?

I am using Slic3r Prusa edition 1.34.1. When i will oben stl file and click on it there is in the right bottom corner (Manifold: Auto-repaired 34661 errors) And model looks broken with holes. The other model has errors too but not that many.

I checked the models in Meshmixer, Slic3r, and Simplify3D and and they seem to be okay. Can you turn auto-repair off? I have had problems in the past with slicers "over correcting" on various models.

I think there is no setting to turn off auto repairing in Slic3r. Anyway thank you for help ;)

Hmmm is it only me having issues with either the size of the wholes or the size of the PEGs / Vehicles?

The tolerances on the pieces are very tight as they do tend to loosen up over time. Tolerances are printer dependent, so even though they work well for me, they may not for someone else. Here are two solutions though.

  1. Scale the pegs and pieces down uniformly by a very small amount in your slicer. I would guess that 1-2% would be plenty.

  2. Roll up a piece of sand paper and smooth down the holes on the board.

Let me know if this works.

will try the scale trick, yep. ty!

How many pegs are required of each color actually? :D

For red you need at most 34 pegs per player. White pegs vary game to game but I would estimate between 60 and 70 per player.

Oh and cool profile pic!

I need this in my play-room!!

One of my most anticipated prints yet! The whole family is looking forward to the finished product! I did drill out the peg holes to make them fit better

Hahaha! This'll be fun for game night. Great idea!

Thank you loads for the time you put into this.

Awesome!! great work