Ultimaker Nozzle Mk2 for 3mm filament

by scottmayson, published

Ultimaker Nozzle Mk2 for 3mm filament by scottmayson Mar 31, 2012
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Soon to be redesigned for PEEK application

This setup is currently printing at 20 micron layers ;p

This is a re-designed nozzle assembly for Ultimaker. No additional materials were required to fill gaps like PTFE tape or extruding ABS to fill gaps- as is the way for Ultimaker setup. Simply turn-up the white PTFE part tap some threads and screw together/ assemble.



PEEK PDF drawings now available. NOTE# Only use Makergear 36mm heater barrels and nozzles. The UM versions don't work with this design! There are 3mm and 1.75mm (BETA) versions of this design.

Note: if you unscrew and remove the Bowden tube for matinence. When reassembling unscrew the four long M3 screws and lower the entire print head assembly then insert the Bowden tube through the top hole and screw it back into the PTFE part and refit the print head. This avoids over tightening the Bowden tube into the PTFE part to much!

You can purchase PEEK for RS in Australia.

The M6x36mm brass tube and 0.35mm nozzle are from www.makergear.com and do not require PTFE tape to seal there presision machined and bed properly -

The following flickr image http://www.flickr.com/photos/scottmayson/6858896762/ has notes for the relavent dimensions. Central filament hole is 1/8"

I will post a drawing soon if you want a shop to do it for you. In the meantime I had a play with tinkercad the students in our rapid class were talking about it. It's not bad Solidworks is my platform but they should be worried. https://tinkercad.com/things/iLvjDceNMLc I'll supply a solidworks part soon! dont fully trust the tinkercad part please ;p

However, this part was machined to fit the existing Ultimaker bowden tube with M6 x 10mm thread cut by hand, alloy plate with four holes that fixes the nozzle in place and Makergear brass tube and nozzle.

"Variation" The Bowden tube could have an M7 thread if cut by hand and matching M7 thread in PTFE component, The top will need to be shorter and rounder to allow for the M7 thread.

Heater block recycled from Ultimaker.

Tools required:
M6 tap intermediate and end
M6 Die

See the following videos of it in action.

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Where can i buy such a nozzle? Have a lot of problems with nozzle leaking. Thanks in advance.

I have been using this for over a year.... very good.

I've ordered a piece of PEEK at 5/8" (15.9mm) x 12" from Amazon. I'm going to try machining it myself. Thank you for designing this! I'm so tired of my nozzle leaking. I have it down to a very slow leak that requires me to wipe it off a couple of times per hour while printing.

I'm also ordering both 0.25 and 0.5mm Bighead Nozzles. Some things that I want to make are small and have fine details. I'm thinking things like threads could be cleaner with a smaller tip.

In fact, I'd like a dual (or more) head not for different colors or different materials, but number one reason is to have more than one head size. 

When making the part tap M6 all the way through so the Bowden and heater barrel meet.

I'm having trouble finding a tap long enough to tap through all 27mm. I'm in the USA. Any ideas? Otherwise I think I'll try tapping as far as I can, then using an M6 bold with hex head and with the end ground into a "D" shape to finish the threads, or grind down the shank on my M6 tap.

Things move so slowly sometimes with our own projects... I'm only now getting to trying to make one of these.

Thank you for the tip about joining the Bowden tube and the heater barrel, that makes sense. Not having much experience turning parts like this, I can see that should make it simpler to turn, as I can drill and tap from just one end.

New PDF drawing of PEEK parts avaliable 8-)

Is the geometry going to be any different for PEEK?

I'm getting quotes from workshops now to produce a part in PEEK with the existing geometry - so annoyed with the existing head design.

I'm going to put new drawings and parts up tomorrow AUS time. This design is for a markergear setup. Not the poorly designed UM heater barrel and nozzle.

Hey Scott... going to CNC mine, I don't have a lathe. :)

The measurements in your table napkin sketch don't match up to the measurements in the photo, or the stl file. Is the stl file the most recent or most accurate? Which one would you recommend I go off of?


Hi Chuck. See my comment above. Re new part files.

Hey Scott... I made a handful of these, in ptfe and peek. I am curious what temps you are running them at? At 245 the peek expanded and contricted the 1/8" hole and locked up the filament (ABS) You can see the two white ones in the attached pic with intact filament stuck in them. I made a peek one the next day and any escaping molten filament solidifies as soon as it touches it. I do love the makergear nozzle and tube though, less damage to the bed if you you have a z collision and the longer tube it nice. I ended up using the makergear nozzle with the old peek. The longer tube gives you some options. I am going to try this design again with longer brass tube next and keep you posted.


Hi Chuck, I print ABS at 242 deg, I have not had any back pressure with 36mm heater tube. I had a PTFE version and printed various companies PLA and ABS with it. Dont know what is going wrong for you. I use a 0.6mm nozzle maybe this makes a difference with back pressure? it can print to 20 microns. I have a new version as above and am trying (soon) 1.75mm filament. Its much nicer as theres half the mass to heat up etc.

that might be it... I am running the .35 mm nozzle. Did you see that ultimaker guys have a new nozzle coming out next week? the design doesn't seem that much different. The issue for me has always been back pressure liquid plastc making it's way back up the tube. Their new design doesn't seem to lengthen the tube at all.

Taylor and I were working on the same idea, using a M7 in the top part, and M6 for the brass tube, threading the bowden with M7 (easy by hand with a hex die). My part from PTFE was printing great at 250C (ABS, probably 235C real temp), but failed immediately at 255C, which seems to be the max temp for PTFE. If you are printing only PLA, this is a great solution, but the higher temp required for ABS pushes the PTFE beyond it's operational margin.

I agree. I would use PEEK in future it was, back then, just too hard to source shipped to AUS. My printer has been fine for 3 months now with the changes. Now I'm no longer making mods for the ultimaker which is nice and I can focus on printing and research now :)



How about using glass-mica ceramic? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ceramic-rods/=i4spyehttp://www.mcmaster.com/#stand...

More expensive but should out-perform both PEEK and PTFE at very high temps.


Anything is worth a try. Only problem is McMaster don't ship beyond the USA :'(

The material is called Mykroy/Mycalex perhaps there's a distributor in AUS/NZ region. I'm thinking of buying some to try. But I'm more interested in building your updated extruder using the MK6 makerbot nut.

going to make mine after my parts get here...

Hmm got it made but cant cut the 6mm thread bowden tube...

How are you going about this? You need to hand cut it with a lathe in 1/16th turns and backing off. I would use an M7 die first and then reduce it with the M6 die. There is a "Variation" note above that informs you of the M7 option.

Wow! it works great!! i will send pics this week...

I really like the look of this, maybe it could get my printer printing again. Do you happen to have that drawing lying around so I can see what it might cost to have someone machine one for me?

After Easter I'll put up a drawing.

Is there a reason that you used a PTFE rod instead of PEEK?

PEEK is to hard to come by and expensive in small quantities.

I've seen it in action and it has solved a lot of the problems the Scott was having.

Highly recommended to try if you have the capabilities and a psuedo-functional Ultimaker. ;)

Sounds interesting...

I'm still using an 0.35 mm Nozzle and ultimaker print quality jump to a higher level. This mod could improve it a little bit more!