Loading

Wanhao Duplicator 6 Filament Spool Holder with printed bearings (no hardware needed)

by disoculated, published

Wanhao Duplicator 6 Filament Spool Holder with printed bearings (no hardware needed) by disoculated Jan 22, 2017
1 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Summary

UPDATE 8/7/2017

I now consider this part to be obsolete, and am now using this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473199

If you would prefer to print the model with the internal bearings, please use at least 40% infill on the central shaft to extend it's lifespan. Also, make certain the central shaft fits snugly, so the roller does not move away from the back of the printer and create a weak spot. Thanks!


There are quite a few Wanhao D6 (Monoprice Ultimate) printable spools out there to replace the woefully short one that comes with the machine, but they all seem to require extra hardware like threaded rods, metal bearings, and nuts. This version includes two printed bearings embedded inside the spool tube. You just print, smack the spool and twist to break the bearing rods free, and you install!

Print Settings

Printer:

Wanhao Duplicator 6

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.2mm

Infill:

20-40%


Notes:

Prints fine at .2mm or smaller resolution. Specify the lightest type of support your slicer/printer can do. I did this on PLA, and and it has some tight tolerances, so I wouldn't suggest ABS or any other filament that shrinks.

All objects in the stl file are aligned to the direction that they should be printed. Be careful pulling the pin object off of the bed... it can be delicate. If you don't want to mess with the printed pin, you can use a paperclip or something else small instead,

Post-Printing

AFTER PRINTING

The bearing rods and central column are "stuck" at the end of the print, and you need to free them.

1) Insert the hexagonal shaft into the mounting bracket (the part with the threads) so that the wider end will be on the inside of the printer. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU'RE DONE THAT THE HEAD IS FLUSH WITH THE THREADED MOUNTING BRACKET SURFACE. If not, the hexagonal tube may be protruding far enough into the printer to block the Z axis!

2) Free the exposed bearings on the main tube with a fingertip or a pencil or something, then insert the hexagonal shaft into the central shaft of the main tube on the side with the bearing rods.

3) WHACK the main tube on to push the hexagonal shaft completely through. You don't need a hammer, but you need enough force to "break" free the central shaft and the internal bearings.

4) Put the pin in the end of the hexagonal shaft to keep it from sliding off during use.

5) Spin the bearing tube by hand. It'll be stiff at first, but once it breaks in, it'll spin really, really well. I was quite pleased.

How I Designed This

Making of:

As anyone with a d6 can tell you, the spool is too short, and it can cause gaps in prints because the extruder has to work too hard to drag filament off a spool that's rubbing hard against the back back of the machine.

I took an existing model of the spool for the threaded base, used an OpenSCAD script to create some custom bearings, and put them inside of the main tube. Instead of a threaded rod and nut, I put an enlarged nut head on one end of a hexagonal rod, and a hole for a pin on the other (and added a printable pin).

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Yesterday my spool had it's central shaft snap, which is very disappointing. I am making an updated version that will have a slightly stronger central shaft, and twist on end, which should put less stress on just one spot.

Does not slice well with S3D for me =(
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/694479/screenshots/ss170226-101738.png
May be because I rotated the whole set to other orientation (to have tall part closer to the x=0/y=0)

I can't speak to Simplify 3d, as I don't have it, but I can say that it prints for me in PLA at 190 degrees, 1.2mm walls (3 perimeters at .4mm) .2mm and.1mm resolution (with .1mm looking better of course), 10% line supports, and 40% infill. Also, I have no problems slicing in Slic3r and Cura with the unmodified .stl file.

I don't know why rotation would cause a slicing/printing problem, so long as you didn't try to print the tube or screw horizontally.

I just opened the stl in Meshmixer and it highlighted non-manifold triangles and I deleted those with simple selection.
S3D also complains on non-manifold object if built-in check performed. After that the model printed without any problems.

Top