Loading

Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

RC MB Jeep in 1:10

by ossum, published

RC MB Jeep in 1:10 by ossum Jan 23, 2017
12 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Contents

Design Tools

Fusion360

License

RC MB Jeep in 1:10 by ossum is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

43323Views 8893Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

Summary

Support

If you would like to support future free releases, please feel free to leave a tip (especially if you sell prints of my designs). I really want to keep on giving these things away for free.

Making use of the affiliate links that I provide to purchase parts is also a way of supporting me that doesn't cost you anything. I don't recommend anything that I haven't personally used.

Failing all of that, I heartily appreciate a credit or link back to my facebook page when you post your prints on social media.

Join the Group

Join the Ossum Facebook group here to discuss the projects.

Introduction

This is an accurately scaled 1:10 MB jeep which makes use of affordable drivetrain parts off of a 1:18 scale Kulak crawler.

The tyres are quite obviously not to scale. I think these would be perfect, but they are too pricey for me.

Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmGmvtKJsiY&feature=youtu.be

Build Instructions

Full instructions on my Instructable

Updates

These are a list of updates as they happen, so that you know if there are improvements/fixes since you last downloaded.

2017/01/25

  • Added hitch mounting holes to rear bumper
  • Increased wheel hex hole to 12.4mm for easier fitment
  • Uploaded corrected frame rails
  • Added servo bracket/shock mount
  • Added holes to front fenders for shock mount

2017/01/27

  • Added headlights

2017/01/30

  • Tightened tolerances on leaf shackle_a and shackle_b to reduce side-to-side movement
  • Added seats (and updated "front_floor_and_tub" with matching mounting holes)

2017/02/07

  • Shortened flanges on motor mount for clearance
  • Added missing mounting hole for rear bumper in frame
  • Strengthened tailgate vertical-rib
  • Fixed gap in rear tub left and right

2017/02/10

2017/02/13

2017/02/17

  • New front_floor_and_tub corrects hex recesses and adds steps/footplates behind fenders

2017/03/07

2017/03/09

2017/04/06

Roadmap

I am marking this project as "in progress" since there are still a number of improvements/fixes that I would like to make, I will list them here and tick them off in the update list as they are done. If you wanted to be kept abreast of developments, follow Ossum on facebook

More from R/C Vehicles

view more

File Name

Downloads

Size

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

3D Print a wide range of designs with Treatstock. Easy to use tools to get the perfect result. The global 3D printing network that connects you with high-quality and fast working print services nea...

App Info Launch App

Thank you for creating this model! I am eagerly printing this right now.

Is there any chance you have the front end of a CJ5 available to print?

I would give my left nut to be able to print a scale version of my late Dad's 1961 CJ5 which is being restored at the moment also.

Hi Mike

I haven't designed the CJ5. Just took a look at it now and it seems that we'd need to modify the hood, fenders, windshield, grille and front of the tub around the dash.

I'm currently well stocked on left nuts, so I'm afraid that isn't going to do in a trade. I don't have any particular need for the CJ myself, but I am always ready to accept contributions towards my next projects, so I am sure we could arrange something. Feel free to direct message me or get in touch via my facebook page if you have any other offers.

What is the largest piece to print? Ive got a 120mm^3 print bed and would love to tackle this!

I believe that Intashu printed it on a similar sized printed, he split some of the parts and added them here on Thinigiverse as remixes. He is active in my Ossum facebook group too if you have questions.

Hmm. What if i like to use 1/10 drive train? The axles, gearbox, servo...
Just scale up the print? But the nut hole would be bigger

There has been a version printed at 133% on my facebook group which worked really well with SCX10 size components. The nut holes are actually almost spot on for M3 hardware in place of the M2 (heating them with a soldering iron to get them in should be good enough).

Hi
it is a very accurate and nice desig of the jeep. I'm printing one, too.

A suggestion regarding the suspension leaves: Remove the holes, at least for me this is the weak point where they break. Then add two pins to the leaves, wide enough to fit in the axle (effectively forming an U-shape) in order to prevent axle movement. You could use two U-bolts plus a 4-hole-plate to mount the axle (as the original). I did not use U-bolts but a 0.8mm steel wire and twisted it gently. My M2 brass simply broke when I tried bending it. Obviously it was alredy hardenend and I didn't want to play with fire to make it soft again.)

Howdy,
Great model of the tub/body. Just finishing printing everything.

Could you/would you make a stretched version? Where the tub is stretched approximately 3 to 4 inches? Something similar to this, but with the wheel well a little further forward.

http://www.ewillys.com/wp-content/uploads2/2016/02/1960-cj3b-stretched-vista-ca1.jpg

For clarification, just the body. So modifications to the side rear fenders, and inner floor.

Do you have a specific wheelbase in mind?

Right now, I measure the wheelbase of the body at 8" (where I mount my axles at least!) A wheelbase of 10.5 inches would be magical. May be tricky with fitting the larger pieces on a print bed.

Thanks!

I'll take a look sometime at stretching it to that length. What chassis are you planning to put it on?

Can't promise anything soon, I have a huge backlog of paid work to get done so this kinda thing falls low down the priority list unfortunately. Gotta do what pays the bills you know ;-)

No worries! Be happy to donate as well.

Chassis is my own design. Pretty flexible there. That 10.5" wheelbase fits the look I'm going for pretty nicely.

Your build piqued my curiosity, so I have uploaded a preliminary version, let me know if it works for you. Depending on your build volume some of the parts may need to be split further.

There was also a question in my mind as to whether to split it before or after the "rise" behind the seats.

Donations are always greatly appreciated, but not required.

If you are a Facebook user you should check out the ossum page and group, we'd love to see your build.

Ossum Jeep Long Wheelbase
by ossum

That is exactly what I was looking for! It looks like I can just barely fit the tub sides on my 200x200 print bed if I rotate them 45 degrees. I'll print them and see what it looks like! You rock!

Chris

Excellent, good luck with the print, lemme know how it goes!

Sadly the first bedside I tried did not print properly. Almost like the model is not solid. I'm going to try to stitch it together .

Chris

Comments deleted.

That's weird, I just checked the model and it is definitely solid. Is it not just from printing right on the edge of the buildplate perhaps?

ossum could u plz point me were i can get info on how to make a print solid i have down loaded model cars from here when i hollow it out it not sealed when i run it throw nefabb thx for u`r time

I don't have much experience with that I'm afraid, I design all my models from scratch in Fusion 360, so they never need repairing. I did once repair something I downloaded with Make Printable and it worked pretty well, so you could try that.

Yea, it looks like the slicer couldn't interpret the fist layer of the model. .Weird. The other side printed perfect! So I will just mirror it.

Printing the tub today, hoping it fits!

One half of the front seat doesn't have holes in it for mounting to the floor.

is their any way you can please help me find a scale willys jeep frame because I love this and i'm just looking for something more scale ayway awesome job and keep up the good work

Are you looking for a more scale chassis and drivetrain?

There are some options from rc4wd etc that are better than the Kulak, but none that I've found so far match this 1:10 scale.

If you scale the whole project up to about 1:6 then there are a lot of options from the 1:10 crawler world that will work.

yeah I just want something a bit more realistic to a standard willys style jeep

The options I mentioned above are the only ones I've seen so far that fit the scale, but if you find/design anything be sure to let us know!

The windscreen frame sits to high when put down on the hood. Do you have a fix for that?

Nope, no changes there.

Probably pretty easy to modify in tinker cad or similar if you want to.

From pics I've seen the 1:1 seem to have riser blocks on the hood to solve the issue.

Your right but it sits flat when on the support blocks when down. If you have the cad file maybe I can adjust it a little and make the blocks for it.

I'm amazed how well that chassis fit under the body, I didn't even realise it was a motor-on-axle. It sure is cheaper.

Did you have to do any mods to make it fit?

Almost nothing. I adjust the wheel distance, make it a bit wider. So the steering wheels do not though the leaf springs by turning.
The servo is fixed on the front axel and not on the body, so I had to reforced the front fenders of the body and fit it on the main chassis.

The electronic are very simple. You can only drive full speed forward and full backwards and full right and full left. However its possible to modify the electronics with your own ecs, servo and transmitter.

Interesting, thanks for the info.

Hi, is there any way to print the gearbox and the transmission shafts?

I know of at least two guys who are working on designs, but I don't believe either have released anything yet.

One of them is using Mr CrankyFace's axles, so that might be a good place to start, but they require a lot of scaling down.

As someone with a small printer (120x240x120 print area) is there or can you make an alternative center body file that splits it in half? it's the only part I cannot print complete and trying to use cura to make it work leaves a very visible crack between the two halves I printed!

I'll look into this. So that is the only piece that doesnt fit?

I figured out tinkercad and made an edited version with extra screw locations to fit it together. I haven't checked the clearance on the new screw mount locations yet but it's better than not being able to print at all! I'll have to check to make sure it all fits together with my truck before I guarantee it!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2278343

Ossum Jeep Tub for small Printers
by Intashu

This is so great, thanks for sharing. I had thought about your request a few times and just not gotten to it yet. I would have been happy to do it for you eventually, but now I am 100 times happier to have sucked someone else into the wonderful world of CAD ;-)

I'm using a Monoprice mini with a lengthened bed modification, and that was the only part I couldn't get to fit.
The default size of the mini is a 120mm cube. so the main tub may need to be broken down further for the stock users of those tiny printers, however if it was cut in half into a front/back, or possible left/right with some screw points to stick them together that would be great for us small printer guys!

the frame rails are the next closest, and with the longer bed I didn't have any trouble printing them out.

I have not looked into the Trailer yet, but It may be something my current bed size can't print if the main tub size exceeds 120mm in two dimensions. (just something else to consider!)

It means a great deal to us amateur makers that the creator is listening, and doing their best not only to create options for people but to have something so cool available to create and customize! this is by far the largest print I've done with the most pieces and the test fitting has gone incredibly well!

I have axles from Axial SCX10 would they be to big?

At the default 1:10 scale they are definitely too big. If you were going for a competition look and designed some wheels with a lot of negative offset maybe you could make it work.

Alternatively you could scale it up to 1:6 scale (print at 166%). The body should come out fine, even though the walls will no longer be even multiples of a 0.4mm nozzle.

The chassis will also work, but the recesses for m2 nuts and bolts will be the wrong size. Nothing a drill and soldering iron wont fix.

I've considered scaling the design up properly myself, but dont have any axles kicking around so the motivation isnt quite there yet. Something like the MST CFX would probably be perfect

Well would love to see a "properly scaled up" for 1/10 drive train soon. Hehe

Very cool! I just do not understand the printing position of some parts. It could have opposite orientation. It would improve the strength of the part and ease of printing, for example fenders,chassis, frame window...

Hi, thanks for the feedback. Are you talking about using them in the default orientation that they import in?

The window prints with the large flat surface on the bed for example. The fenders print with the flat front/back on the bed. The rails all have a flat surface that allows printing without support.

You can of course rotate them any way you like, but must of the parts are designed to print without support in one direction.

I designed around a print in PETG. In my tests the interlayer adhesion of PETG is so strong the the print is not weaker along print lines (print a thin vertical sheet and try to tear it, it doesn't tear along the lines if the bond is good).

If you find orientations that are better or stronger I'm keen to see though, maybe you can include a pic.

For example, the chassis is up, a very thin and high piece. With lines of impression so that it becomes a fragile point. I believe that if printed horizontally (larger position on the table) or fragile positioning of the lines would be against a tension caused by other parts. This is how you spin in the program.

(Print rear bump now) :D

The chassis was designed to be printed flat as you suggest, you must just rotate them in your slicer (i use craftware, but I'm sure all slicers supoort rotation).

Take a look at the instructable in the description, there is a section with pictures of all the print orientations.

For the price and quality of those tires they are very good. They don't come much cheaper than that and I thought that these might look a little bit better because they are more of a military style tire. Also if you knew more about hobby grade rc's in general then you would know how much it truly costs. Quality kits are $300-$600 and rtr's are even more expensive and its not a cheap hobby, trust me.

http://store.rc4wd.com/Rock-Stompers-155-Offroad-Tires_p_1771.html

Oh I know plenty about hobby grade RC's, and I appreciate that crawling is a specialised niche with a relatively small market, so parts are expensive to produce (and they can charge what they like), I just don't want to spend it.

Hello ossum,
i have a Problem. My New metalsprings are coming and i want too Mount now the axles in the Springs because i have now smaler wheels and ich want drop the Jeep deeper but the axle came to the servo. Can you kreate a servo Mount in the top from the Mount?? Thanks and besteht greats Axel

Which Part is the biggest Part ? I don´t know it´s to big for my Printer in 100 %

The front tub piece, I have a smaller printer and that was the only part I was not able to print without some messing with orientation (had to print it vertical and shift it down to cut off half the build, then print the missing piece the same way. looks ugly, but it "works"

I think the front tub or the framerails are largest

how did you keep the hood in place?

At the moment I am just using some "blutack" or "prestik". I have been meaning to design small hinges to print but haven't had time.

You can buy small hinges at a hobby shop, or search for some on thingiverse (darkdragonwing has some) or design some and share them for us all to use ;-)

can you share the source file of hood , dashboard and grille to me ?
I will try to work it out.
my email is [email protected]

Sorry. I missed this comment somehow, and you have already made the hinges. What program are you using, what format do you need? I am a fan of all the parts you have contributed so far, so I'd be happy to share those parts if you still need them.

Hello ossum, i printed the last things for the Jeep and then i build it together. I have buy the metalleaf too. When you build your Springs in your car make you same New shackles and holder ? Because the New Springs have 3mm holes :-)
Thanks Axel

Hi Axel

I will be sure to release the updated chassis/shackles etc when my springs arrive.

Which springs did you buy? I got trailfinder 2 springs, which were the shortest I could find.

Hey ossum. I have buy the same how you. :-) the plastic Springs are great but they brake when i drive ober big stones.
I find the steering is too little. It was great when the drive Radius was smaller , have you an idea?

Yes, I found the same thing, I was breaking plastic springs whenever the wheels got stuck.

I will be looking at the steering again when I have the springs. There are some issues.

  • The steering links can collide with the leaf springs, I had to grind mine flat
  • The extra offset on the wheels for large tyres might have a negative impact (1.55" tyres might be better)

Maybe we can design new knuckles. I will also be testing the offset servo mount which will improve steering I hope.

For the spring i used Nylon Bridge Filament and it's working great.

Nylon sounds like a perfect choice. My understanding is that you need a high temp extruder to print it successfully though?

260 degrees extruder and 80 degrees heat bed...:)

Blast, that's about 15 degrees past where my craftbot's extruder would self destruct ;-)

Hahahahahaha...at first i'm scared to set at that temperature, so i keep looking at the printing every 2 minutes but its working fine no smokes...:)

hello ossum,
big respect for this great project!!!!!! thank you for sharing and i love this. Iam start too print it but i have an question. the mounting-hanger what you use to mount the axle/knuckle with the leaf-spring. where are this holder??? where can i buy it?
thanks Axel

Thank you, and you are most welcome!

Are you talking about the u-bolt that holds the axle to the leaf spring? I just used a piece of brass threaded rod (M2 thread), and bent it by hand.

Stainless or steel rod might be easier to get and should be usable, the stainless might be prone to snapping while you bend it though.

If you can't find any you could just use two long M2 screws and a small flats plate on the other side.

I'd offer to send you some but I'm all the way down in south Africa, I doubt it would be worth the shipping.

are you working for more things for the jeep? have you pictures of your status this time?

hi, thank you. yes i talking about the u-bolts. thanks for the tutorial. i bent it with m2 rod, ;-)

Well that was quick! Glad you got some.

I haven't had much time to work on the jeep lately, I have been busy with my day job and with commissioned designs, but I plan to get back into it soon.

I just ordered these metal leaf springs from RC4WD, when they arrive I will be able to test the new servo mount (standard size servo as well as better steering geometry I hope).

I think once I can drive the jeep reliably without breaking leaf springs I will have more enthusiasm to finish the interior and brake lights etc.

did your TF2 leaf springs arrive and did they work out? I was looking at these tamiya springs https://goo.gl/aJRDx5
Very affordable, but 2cm longer than stock. I was thinking maybe I could just shift the inner spring brackets a bit further towards center, but the front one is likely to run into the motor mount...
Also TBH I'm surprised the leaf brackets don't break a lot too. I was thinking of making some out of some bent aluminum. like 1mm sheet should do it I think, and would be easy to bend with pliers.
If I manage this I'll post the remixes of course. Great design work!

Hi. Yes, they are in fact sitting on my workbench along with the new spring brackets, center pins and axle knuckles that I designed to go with them. They turned out to be exactly the same length as the original ones I designed. Their length is obviously measured flat, I had assumed it was measured in it's relaxed state, so they should be perfect.

I'll try get them mounted up soon to show you, then I can post the parts.

Oh, regarding the brackets, mine seem extremely strong, the gusset in the middle helps a lot.

I think that the current version of the Kulak has a slightly different axle and knuckle connection.

1) The screw holes go into some protrusions sticking out of the axle to give added threading. They appear to be in the same location, and are 4mm diameter and 2.5mm tall.

2) The slots you have that allow for the knuckle to fit around the brackets for the linkage bars don't line up with the current brackets. The current brackets are actually tangent with the bottom of the axle and 5mm at the point where they fully protrude from the main axle body.

Can you send a photo?

Your 2nd point sounds consistent with what I have, but I shaved off the outermost protrusions from the axle. A sharp pair of sidecutters does it easily enough.

You are right that servo looks like a "standard size" one, I bought my kulak second hand and it came with a mini servo.

I am intending to design a servo mount for a standard servo though, so it shouldn't be a problem.

You could leave the servo mounted on the axle until then.

It looks like the right size, but I have my doubt's about whether it would have enough torque.

For $4 though I guess it's not too much of a gamble, you can always use it to turn a steering wheel or the driver's head if its too weak for the actual steering

yeah that was my only concern, but its cheap so why not give it a shot

That kinda thinking is why I have a continuous stream of parcels from Aliexpress landing at my door ;-)

okay sounds great! i can't wait for my filament to come in so i can get this project started.

Very very nice design. Thank you for releasing it here and for the assembly instructions! I just could not stay away from starting this project. So I already ordered a Kulak. I hoped to get my hands on a used one, but I guess it is not such a widespread vehicle here in Germany. I have been looking for smaller, more scale looking tires as well and I found these:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4pcs-RC-Hard-Tires-4pc-22mm-Type-For-Tamiya-1-14-Scale-Tractor-truck/32760052216.html

I guess they are the same as posted by ataylor60. The url from his comment brings me to a lot of tires, not a single set, so I am not completely sure which ones he was referring to.

Thank you, I hope you enjoy putting it together! Please make sure to send me some pics or share on the facebook page as you go along.

The tyres that you linked look very good. I think that they will be hard though, so good for driving on road, but not offroad.

These tyres are also an option, they are only 75mm in diameter which is perfect, but they are 1.9" rims, so they are quite low profile. You can actually find quite a few of those (in crazy colours too) by searching for 75mm tire

Lastly, thank you very much for the tip, it is genuinely appreciated, I plan to use the tips towards buying some metal leafsprings, so that I can develop and release a chassis version that fits them.

They are about the same as the ones I picked up @Oger.

Interestingly with those tires for 1.9" wheels @ossum I think they might work reasonably well. Referencing the side view I found here if I scale by setting the tire diameter to 75mm I get a wheel diameter of about 1.9". They will be too wide for scale but the tyre profile might not look as far off as you think. Could be worth a look.

Did you see my comment below? I've fixed and printed it for myself already but I'm sure you would like to tidy up the files.

Thanks ataylor, sorry about not responding, that fix slipped my mind. I finally got around to doing it tonight and have uploaded the correction.

I added some steps/footplate thingies to the tub at the same time, since they have been missing for ages.

Those 1.9" tyres are actually quite nice, I had a set for a while which I stupidly swapped with someone (they used them on a trailer, which is another good use for them). The tread is more realistic than most of the stuff you find on aliexpress. Also no good for serious off-roading of course.

Thank you guys! I think I will go for the 22 mm wide 1.9 tyres. The price is good and I like the look. You are most probably right about their lower performance for real crawling or off-road driving.
If I understand the design of your wheels correctly, I need an inner ring that is smaller to fit the smaller tyres, right? Or do I need to modify both halves of the wheel?

I'm 90% sure that they will just work with the ring as is because that is a fairly standard tyre width, but only time will tell, different tyres have slightly different beads.

This image, hosted on my instrucable in step 6, might clear it up a bit:

smile

Yes, of course, that makes sense. The two halves are joined directly. I thought the inner ring keeps the halves apart a little bit. Thank you for clearing it up! So I will go for the 1.9 tyres; for the trailer as well. Should look pretty nice, even if not performing too well.

I've uploaded my 'work in progress' (i.e. untested on the Jeep) wheels to suit 44mm tires. See here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2158222

RC MB Jeep 44mm Wheels

Excellent! I have added a link to it in the "Updates" section.

I think I will have to add an "option parts" section soon, with links to all these alternatives, in the meantime I recommend tagging it with "ossumjeep", so that all the related parts are easy to find.

Comments deleted.

The print is running along nicely. Another little detail I've found that you could correct. Two of the hex's on the bottom side of the rear of the front_floor_and_tub are only half cut. Cheers.

I've been looking for tyre options at a more competetive price than the dirt grabbers and have found that 1/14 scale truck tyres such as these are of a similar size. The compound is probably the sticking point, these I expect are much harder. For the price I'm going to have a look at a set, If nothing else they might look good in some photos. I'll splash on some dirt grabbers if the performance is poor.

actually looked at 1/14 truck wheels and tyres for the hotrod project , they match 1:10 car scale pretty well.

The ones you found look particularly good though, I like the tread (and the price).

Let us know just how hard the compound is if you do try them.

I've ordered a set. Still a long way from a complete Jeep though!

That is a really cleverly done soft top, thanks.

I have been meaning to post over at SBG for a while, even though this build pales in comparison to most of the stuff there.

Really awesome work. Mine is printing :) the motormount has a Problem. In one side isn't fitting. I have to cut away a Little Bit of the Walls.

Thanks for that feedback, I had forgotten all about that problem, I fixed it with a hacksaw and forgot to fix it in CAD. I'll put it on the "to fix" list.

New version uploaded

Wow great work. Do you have to use. Kulak. Drivetrain parts. Or can I use something else. It looks like I would have to purchase the whole thing for about 130 bucks.

Hi there. Yeah, it's a bit of a bummer. You can get a lot of the parts separately (and you only need the transmission, axles and driveshafts) if you already have all the electronics etc. lying around (as most us RC nuts do). The parts adds up quickly though.

Here is a search on aliexpress
http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nYNzjqB

And here is one on banggood
http://www.banggood.com/search/hsp-94680.html

I can't actually find the axles separately right now though.

I guess if you were feeling industrious you could buy the gears and print an axle.

The real cheapest option is probably to look for a 2nd hand one, that is what I did (actually, swapped a print of the trailer for it).

For reference I started to go through picking out all the individual parts required for this build and was very quickly approaching the cost of the whole Kulak. I was still missing a bunch of small parts that were not immediately visible. Purchasing the complete RTR will be the most cost effective way to get the required parts. As a bonus you will have a complete set of basic electronics to get it running.

Yeah, I added up the transmission, driveshafts and axles and quickly realized it made more sense to get a full one, as you say, the electronics clinch the deal (but one still needs a smaller battery I think if you are going to hide it under the hood, I used a 1000mah 2s lipo).

If you can get a 2nd hand one it's a no-brainer.

I just picked up a used one that has been modded to take a 540 motor, so I'm going to have to figure out how to squeeze that in. Should be fun if it works.

It's a dangerous pastime, browsing stuff on Thingiverse! I've ordered the base vehicle and am already printing the front tub. The green filament I got is too bright (Ideally I'd have some khaki filament) and I need to source a little Alan Alda to drive it :)

Thanks for putting this up here - I love the 3D printing community.

My apologies for the temptation ;-)

I was also curious about printing in khaki, but I actually think its best to paint it, since you can then sand it first to eradicate the print lines. Clear filament worked nicely, because scratches in the paint don'treally show up, but a metallic silver would also be cool, so that scratches look like bare metal.

Keep me in the loop, hope you enjoy the build.

This looks awesome! How long do you think it will be before you get the final design? I'm excited to build it, but don't want to keep reprinting parts as they're updated (although tinkering like that can be fun at times).

Thanks. I understand that concern... Its hard to say, considering I don't make anything out of this it ends up being lower priority than my day job and design commissions (despite being more fun).

If you are wanting to run shocks then it may be worth waiting, I will have to tweak the front fenders and servo bracket for those (possibly the rear floor section too, for rear shocks, depending on the length)

I have an idea in mind for the hood hinge which should allow it to be retrofitted with just a couple of holes drilled, or some glue.

Nevertheless, I hope to have it all done in the next week or two.

If you are just using the body and not the mechanics (especially if scaling it up), then i don't see much reason to wait.

That's fair! I run into the same thing with my projects, way more exciting than my actual job.

I might start printing the body now and add in the parts you mentioned as you finish them. I've been looking for a RC version of this Jeep for a long time!

I make no guarantees about future compatibility, but I'm sure it won't be anything that a sharp knife or small drill can't fix.

The other option, which I am planning with my small pile of prototypes, is to build a post-apocalyptic or rat rod version with the leftovers ;-) This project is actually quite light on filament, since all the parts are so thin.

I'm glad I was able to make something that you were after!

That sounds like a great plan for the prototypes. Guess I might as well get started and just leave the parts unpainted until the final version comes out. Keep up the good work!

The whole frame, bumpers and motor mount assembly is finalised, so are wheels, seats, all the suspension and the windscreen, so I'd start with those.

Great! I have the frame and bumpers printed, but I'm not sure how I'm supposed to attach the rear bumper to the frame. Is there supposed to be a horizontal hole on the rear frame rails that lines up with the holes in the bumper (the front rails have it)?

Sounds like an omission, I'll check the files and update tonight.

Since you've already printed it I would either drill the hole with a 2.5/3mm bit, or even easier, just push the screw through with a hot soldering iron.

You are right there was an error, somewhere along the line the holes disappeared, that's what I get for screwing with the timeline in Fusion. I have uploaded a corrected version. Thanks.

One more problem with the rear rails. One of the hexagonal recesses is misaligned. It's for one of the brackets.

AAAARGHH. Sorry about that. I fixed a whole pile of little errors in offline mode on Fusion, then it crashed or my PC died before it could sync and I lost them all, apparently I forgot to re-fix that one. Corrected version is now uploaded.

Cool, got that printing now. I generally expect a lot of iteration from a work in progress. It's nice to know that you're so quick to respond and upload the new files! Looking forward to completing the Jeep and trailer.

Good to have such understanding "customers" ;-)

I knew the project was at least completable when I released it, since I had one working, but I'll probably be tweaking things for ages. Until some new project grabs my attention at least ;-)

The way I see it, you don't actually owe us anything, so any updates are a bonus!

I will definitely be looking out for the next project, but I hope that this is finished before then!

Great! I figured it was a revision error. Haven't used Fusion, but I teach Inventor, so I'm generally familiar with that sort of thing.

hi amazing project !!! i'm building one( well quite finished) only a question ( 3 question ;) )
1 how should the rims have to be assembled, i mean what is the meaning of front rim, rear rim and wheel_ring.stl could you please put some photos?
2 what is this ?hitch.stl i'm italian and really do not understood where to put it
3 also the pin.stl i could not find where i have to put it too

thx ;)

Since I'm back at my PC now I could get you some better links
Wheel assembly: http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-MB-Jeep-and-M416-Trailer-in-110-Scale/#step6

A picture where you can see the hitch piece: http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-MB-Jeep-and-M416-Trailer-in-110-Scale/#step5

If these links break in future as I add more steps, just go to http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-MB-Jeep-and-M416-Trailer-in-110-Scale

Hi, firstly, thanks for the kind words!

Have you had a look at the link to the instructable in the description? There is a step there that has an animation and pictures of the wheel assembly.

The hitch is where the trailer hooks on and, if I remember correctly, the pin goes in the hitch. There is a step in the instructable too about assembling the hitch, with pictures.

If its still not clear, please let me know, I will try and improve the instructions.

That is a great design and espesiacially we are greatfull because of all free files!!! If i even hane free time i will make this ,it is wonderfull! Really thank you very mmuch

My pleasure!

Hello, first congratulations for that great job, I want to print a jeep but I am alien to the world rc and I would like to know if there is any version of printable axes that is compatible with its design,
Thank you for your great work.

Good question. If anyone has one that would work it will be mrcrankyface (just search for his stuff on thingiverse).

I haven't dabbled in printed gears yet, since I'm always after reliability in my RCs, but he has done some incredible work.

Great bit of design work I'd love one in 1/14 scale to run with my Tamiya trucks...
Cheers Bob

That would be cool, perhaps you could use axles like these: http://www.rpphobby.com/product_p/rc4z-a0117.htm

The walls of the jeep would be super thin though, it might need some reworking.

ok well no hurry and I'm sure they'd be a good seller as I'd want a couple ... to do military and civilian versions and they are a few 12th and 16th scale 4x4's around

Cheers

I just checked, the wheelbase of this chassis http://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-118-Gelande-II-RTR-with-D90-Body-Set_p_4914.html would be exactly right for a 1/16 version.

I don't sell these though, so there is no way I can justify buying one of those to measure it up. If someone (or a group of interested someones) feels like sending/funding me one of those then I'll happily make and release a version of the body to fit it.

Downloaded and already started printing. Can't wait for it to be completed and running. I wanted to say thanks for designing and releasing your projects for free that is super awesome of you to do that. Also when I was looking at the files in the folder after downloading the file for one of the rear section of frame rail is missing I just printed 2 of the same side rail it should work fine I just wanted to let you know about the missing piece. Thanks again and keep up the awesome work.

Thanks for the heads up! I was operating on approximately no sleep for the last 2 weeks, trying to get this project up in time for the Instructables competition, looks like I missed a few things.

I just uploaded the correct frame rails, as well as the servo mounting plate (also provides mounting points for 65mm shocks on the front) and front fenders that have those shock mounting holes too (but if you have already printed those you can just drill holes using the servo mount plate as a guide.

Please let me know if you come up with any other problems, I appreciate the feedback.

Great project and I hope to print one soon, I have an old Losi MRC to use as a donor, but was wandering if you would consider making the wheels fit the 1.55 diameter tires instead and with out the holes in the rim.

Thanks. I look forward to seeing your version.

I would love to make wheels to fit some 1.55 tyres, but I don't have any myself. These ones in specific looked great to me, but I couldn't justify the expense http://store.rc4wd.com/Dirt-Grabber-155-All-Terrain-Tires_p_658.html (the 76mm diameter should look much more scale).

If someone feels like sponsoring me a set of those tyres I will gladly make rims to suit them.

This is Awsome!!! will try to print it... ^_^

Great project mate. I can't wait for my printer to arrive so that I can build this. Have you thought about designing scale tyres to go with the rims, maybe printing with ninjaflex?

Thank you. Yes, I have considered it. Quite a lot actually. I don't think that any of the flexible filaments are soft enough to make good crawler tyres, but I'd like to be proved wrong. I just haven't been able to justify buying a reel of the stuff yet.

Top