MKII 5 Watt 3d printable Wind Turbine

by 3dprintable1 Jan 24, 2017
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Woops, I mean the pitch bearings 9x17x4 without flange.

Pitch bearings without flanges (25x37x4mm) will work with this design modification of the disc. I added stops in the bearing holes to hold the bearings, without flanges, securely in place. I'm working on a modification to use 608zz roller skate bearings, that cost only about $.50 vs. $5+ for the specified bearings, here in the US.

Hi, how did you determine the cross section profile shape of the blades?

Oops, mia culpa. I started thinking the problem might be over extrusion. In fact it was. By about 10%. When corrected everything fits much better.

I'm in the process of assembling a MarkII. The thread on the shaft is too tight to screw the shaft nut on all the way. I've scaled the shaft and nut up and down, however, when I get the thread to fit, the bearing won't go onto the nut. If I get the bearing to fit on the nut, the thread is too tight to get started or on only a couple threads. Ideas? Suggestions? Here are my ideas:
Can someone reduce the wall thickness of the nut? I'm not very good at making modifications.
Reduce the size of the shaft threads without changing the rest of the shaft?
Change the thread to a more course one that is more tolerant of size variation?
Shorten the thread on the shaft?
The bearing on the nut in the picture will go all the way to the base if I force it.
Would appreciate any help as I'm at a standstill.

Are STEP-Files (or some other kind of source files) available for this project? It looks really amazing, but I'd like to check if I can modify some of the parts for easier available bearings over here and some other minor changes without remodelling the parts in Fusion 360.

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Any one have a recommended charge controller to plug the output of this to for some 12V batteries? Does a cheap solar charge controller do the job?

I"m printing the Structure, Structure rear, and Nacelle as I type. After these all I will need are the tail fin pieces. I'm using two Ender-3's for the job. The prop blade jobs went well with only one screww up on a pause. For me it seemed that M4 nuts fit into the pocket just about perfect. I tried an M5 and I could not insert the nut even with substantial force. I also havent read all of the comments so I may have missed a possible fastener size change or the instructions to file the nuts to fit. An M4 screw does slip nicely through the Crank piece. I'm hoping I missed a design tweak note. Like others here, I'm waiting for some of my components to arrive. I ordered the bearings from the UK on Sat. and I don't know when they will arriveto me in the U.S. All of the other componets should arrive by end of this week.... I tapped the various holes for their respective screw sizes and I wanted to use all machine screws. I hope to post a pic of the finished assembly soon. Thanks for doing the heavy lifting on this project.


I put the M5 nut on a M5 bolt, then heated up the nut with a cigarette lighter, then pushed the hot nut (ha) into the hole in the blade.


Hi Eddie, Make sure the bolt through the crank is tight (really tight) it might even take some glue so if you're using a M4 you will need to have a smaller hole through the centre of the crank.

Cheers Dan

Anyone interested in the stepper for the MK2?

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Here it is, MKIII 50watt 3dpower turbine. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2851306

Hope you enjoy it, I shall post pictures and videos of mine soon.

MKIII 50 Watt 3d printable Wind Turbine

Nearly got the MKiii ready to publish, just a few pictures and the exploding assembly models and then all ready to go!

Can we get a BOM so we can start collecting the necessary parts?

Looking forward to it :-)

Hi, can anyone tell me if 68 mm Down pipe fits the tower header? I currently have it mounted on a 10mm threaded rod with an adaptor but it's wobbly in high winds. So i'm planning to mount it on a pipe as I think its more stable. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-downpipe-68mm-x-2-5m-black/25256#product_additional_details_container
Thank you!

Hello Newman,

On the tower drawing (its not very clear) but the ID of the pipe I used is 64.5mm. I can provide the solidworks file for the header so you can change it to suit your pipe if that would help?

Cheers Dan

Hi, I have tried the 68mm downpipe and its perfect. Thank you!


can you tell me if this assembly is correct (attached files) ? I found it not easy to do.


Hello Tommy,

Its really hard to tell from those pictures to be honest. The orange component needs to be pushed in to allow the shaft to be installed flush with the back of the disc, the hole down the centre of the piston will need to be clear of burrs to allow the spring to work correctly. When assembled the mechanism should be super smooth and require very little force to make it move, if its tight try loosening the bolts and or sanding the piston/piston cover mating faces, a little lubrication will help a lot. Clearly you need to put the bearings in x6 :).

Did you see the video with the exploded animation, this might help you, you could also try printing out the drawings and laying the components on the drawing?

Hope this helps, thanks Dan

Hi Dan,

Thank you, for your answer. It helped. Do you have references of the bearing used so that i could find spécifications and buy the same ones ?

Thank you

You can find bearings details in the manual pdf. Last page there are 2 links

Thanks! i did not pay attention there was a manual :( Everything is clear now

Im wondering how did you print the turbine blades? regular 3D printing seems like it wont just do the trick and i suppose it requires post processing as well. Can you please clarify the printing process of the blades.
Thank You

Hello omarfarouk,

Have you seen the videos in the description it shows a blade being printed and the print settings are in the instruction manual. I do ZERO post processing of the blades as I cannot stand spending my time sanding and making a mess. Like the other guys i've found the blades work really well, i've done some high speed testing (1700 rpm, 3x faster than the turbine will operate typically) and they hold up really well. You could improve the surface finish of the blades and see if it improves performance but at this scale I doubt it would make a difference, not one you could measure anyway...

PS take a look at the other makes... some great examples others have made with no other support but the drawings! I've attached the speed test data if you are interested.

Hope this helps, thanks Dan

I printed the full blade from bottom to top. My Anet A8 printer 220 x 220 x 240 has the Z dimension to do it. Smaller printers may not. If you have a smaller printer, there is a two piece version of the blade you can glue together. Very important: Don't forget to have the print pause at 9.1 mm and put in the M5 nut at the base. I missed this step and had to reprint the blades. You can always sand them with fine sand paper to smooth them.

I printed the blades and they worked great.

How are your blades holding up Colin, you might be the fleet leader with the most number of hours of running :) Any sign of cracking or layer separation?

Cheers Dan

Sorry i missed your message. My wind turbine took a tumble as i was relying on the friction fit onto the pole and high winds blew it out of the mount and two blades broke at the point where the nut was seated. It would have been unreasonable to expect the blades to survive a fall from that height though. I've not printed any replacements in anticipation of the mk3, much to my small twins dismay lol.

I think we had discussed earlier but i might look at a rod through the base and pole to secure it which should get around the issue hopefully.

MkII question. How and where do you get the wires to go down the center tower? Mine come out the back cover as the photos show. Can someone post a photo? I'm also considering putting the bridge rectifier circuit in a separate box at the foot of the tower to give the Nacelle plenty of room and rid the turbine of any excessive heat.

Not really got any pictures to hand I'm afraid, I put the rectifier in the tower footer as well, its less hassle wiring. In the nacelle I connect the slip ring wires to the Stepper and then in the tower header I connect some wire to the slip ring.

Hope this helps, will take the head off and get a picture for you soon.
Thanks Dan

So I just found out what a slip ring was. It is an electrical/mechanical device. I thought it was a purely mechanical piece, DOH! It seems pretty important to allow electricity to flow from the revolving turbine assembly to the stationary tower wires. What specs do you recommend for the slip ring, size, AMPS, number of wires? I didn't see it in BOM. Thanks. I'm hoping it can be reused in the MKIII too, right?

Whats the difference between mkII and mkIII?

Hi mattrodo, Improvements in every area, the only parts not to be upgraded are the tail fin and the lower tower footer. The goal was to produce 10x of the power for half the price of purchased parts relative to the MkII and I believe this has been achieved. Doing final testing and tweaks.

If you look back through the threads i've posted drawings and pictures of the MkIII, take a look at the new blades :) i'm really happy with how the have come out and they turn over at super slow wind speeds with full electrical load on them!

Cheers Dan

Its definitely looking that way Bpmarmstrong, really positive results from the NEMA17 and monster blades! The printed Taper roller location bearing for the tower header is super smooth.

Cheers Dan

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Find an imagine of the finished MkIII blade! its a monster at 800mm diameter. About to assemble and carry out some testing...

Thanks Dan

Can't wait, lets see if i can sneak this past my neighbours :-)

Might have to do you a Mk2.5 blade as the MkIII is 800mm dia! take look at the picture...

Awesome ! Thanks for your work ! :-)
I can't wait to build an efficient generator a make it fit with your project !

Hi, looking forward to printing the MKIII once it's here :-)
One question regarding the stepper motor it will use... is this what I'm looking for? (sorry it's in german as I'm in Switzerland).

Should be ok.

Thanks Dan

Thank you. Got it here already. Now eagerly awaiting Mk. III :-)

Two questions: 1) I've been reading about using DC motors vs stepper motors. Just curious why you chose a stepper motor for the wind turbine? Wouldn't a regular DC motor be more efficient? 2) Also, can any of the parts I'm printing for the mkii be used on the next iteration of mkiii? Thanks again for your work! I'm looking forward to the MKiii as well.

hello bigamous,

Stepper motors produce a high voltage output for relatively low rpm, If i used a motor from an RC car for example I would have to spin the motor a lot faster to produce the same voltage, spinning the turbine faster is ok but it produces significantly more stress on the machine and higher vibrations and in plastic thats a worry. On the MKIII i've improved the structure to allow for higher RPM x3 relative to the MkII without any vibration issues so perhaps a DC might work? Please try it and let me know how you get on! I'd certainly switch if I knew it would produce more power :). The MKIII is designed in such a way you can pretty much fit anything to the back end with only limited changes to the turbine for example i've tested an NEMA11/17 & 23 without changing much at all.

MkII to MkIII unchanged parts are below, i've redesigned or modified pretty much everything to be honest to squeeze as much performance out of it whilst reducing the cost, I've totally got rid of the purchased tower bearings and design a printable taper roller location bearing as an example.

Tail fin body
Tail airfoils
Tower footer
Nose cone & tip

Great! I'm printing the tower and the tail now. Just waiting for my bearings from China. Also, I'm reading about a buck converter being more efficient than a linear voltage regulator. Have you considered that?

To be honest bigamous, i've focused purely on the mechanical design and have done little to nothing on the electrical side as it doesn't particularly interest me. If you find a solution that works I would be interested in understanding the benefits!

Thanks Dan

When does MKIII come out? Looking to build one for my alternative energy technology class but I would hold off it the new one comes out soon.

Hello Ethan, I'm testing the Mkiii as we speak but this can be a time consuming process with some iterations. I'm matching the Aerodynamics/Gearbox/Generator to get an optimum power output for a given windspeed (5m/s) whilst keeping the start up torque as low as possible. Whilst managing all of those variables I need to keep the vibration to a minimum so the turbine doesn't shake its self to pieces as I need to run the rotor at almost 3x the speed of the Mkii enabled by the way in which i've designed the structure.

I'm making progress but slower than I would like, I certainly wouldn't call this part fun! I should know better by the end of the weekend, i'm tweaking the gearbox and hopefully the change in ratio will do the trick...

Thanks Dan

Amazing work, Dan! I've finished printing the rotor assembly. I'm studying the diagrams but I'm having a hard time figuring out a couple things. How do you get the pitch arms subassembly into the disk? Is there a good resource for this? Just figured out the the shaft shroud snaps on to the back of disk over shaft. Cool! EDIT: Never mind I found the exploded animation on another site.

Glad you got it sorted :)

Hello 3Ddprintable , im really astounded by your job on the turbine, Im currently working on a 1/300 scale of a 5MW wind turbine model so i'd like to get bits of advice from you. But mainly how did you design the pitching system and if possible can you share the design parts with me?
Thank You.

Hey omarfarouk, the design of the pitch mechanism has been one of iterations. The first iteration was an active system that used a raspberry pi/RPM sensor/Stepper motor and the mechanism to control the pitch, I've attached a picture. This worked really well but was expensive and used some of the energy generated and therefore lowering the overall efficiency of the turbine. I took the learning from the active system and made it passive with the pitch weights. Most of the development work was done by calculation and then a digital mock up in solidworks followed by test pieces and a rig. Once I knew the design worked I refined it to remove as many parts as possible. On the Mkiii i'm just finishing up there are further improvements to reduce the play in the system and reduce the cost of the bearings whilst making it easier to lubricate once installed not to mention 10x more power!!! The mechanism although it may look straight forward was difficult to lay out for the first time and getting the right amount of movement in such a small space was a challenge. Sorry I don't share the files as they are my IP.

Thanks Dan

Hi 3dprintable1, fantastic job with this work, is possible to have the assebly in solidworks? thank in advice and good joob

I keep coming back to check if the 3dPowerTurbine is up! Man I am impatient! haha! Awesome project!

Hi stevejvv, so am I :)

All the parts are printed and the paperwork is finished, I'm just waiting on some parts from China been waiting 6 weeks now...

Thanks Dan

Woohoo, my little army of printers is waiting. Mind it's the start of Chinese new year so two weeks before things will get dispatched from China for the parts i'll need :-(

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Hello Daniel,
Thank you for sharing your project,it's very great
could you detail the electrical schema for MKII
Picture or more detail for the connection

Thanks in advance

Hey SHBULL, did you take a look at the instruction manual?

Cheers Dan

Do you already have some numbers to share with us ? How many watts you are able to produce with the Nema 23 ?

I still have to test that but I received the battery charger I ordered almost 3 months ago...

I'm also interesting in a list of non-printed material that will be required for the Mk3 in order to buy them already :-)

Thanks for your work !

PS : Did you have the time to check Vortex generators in a simulator ?

Hey bistory, I've designed the 3dPowerTurbine in such a way that it can be used with many different NEMA size generators and blade combinations. The baseline will use a 500mm rotor with a NEMA 17, after which I will work on the 1000mm rotor with a NEMA 23 with very few change in components. I'm waiting on my NEMA 17's to turn up to do the final power curves everything else is done. I wouldn't want to say the final design and peak power without first testing it to ensure all my calculations are correct.

I've limited the non-printed parts to the absolute minimum to reduce costs, so things like the tower bearings are now printed taper roller bearings! took a considerable effort to design and print but It works really well and saves a lot of money.

I've done some research into the VG's but haven't taken it any further at the moment as I wanted to work on the things that reduce costs as thats the main thing users have consistently complained about but I shall get round it to :).

Cheers Dan

Hi Daniel,

I just tested my Nema 23 on a load (a battery charger for photovoltaic panels with no photovoltaic panel connected on it.
I get 36V and 0.5A with a powerdrill in drill mode that turns the Nema motor.

I'm pretty disappointed, I expected at least 2A in full speed...

How did you connect the two coil circuits in series or parallel? However you wired try the opposite arrangement.

Hi Daniel,
I have made further investigations with the Nema 23, connected capacitors but nothing improved, still the same 0.5A for a little bit more V (48)...

I have to test with a Nema 11 but as I need at least 12V to have useful current to charge the battery :-/

Maybe an axial flux generator could achieve better efficiency at low speed ?
I have read you tested building your own generator but you didn't have useful current. I have seen your pictures, the problem is that you have no iron in your generator.

I have seen interesting designs for axial flux generators but they lack iron backing...

Thanks for your reply and thanks a lot for all the work you've done so far ! I wish I could help you more !

Well i'm now looking forward to the Mk3 even more, the recent high winds took my mk2 out totally :-( Found it on the lawn with one smashed blade, one totally missing and one still intact. I'll have to look at a retaining bolt maybe as i had the turbine just slid into the drain pipe mount.

That's a shame Colin. Perhaps i could add an eyelet inside the Tower Header then you can attach cord and run it through the Tower Pole and earth against the Tower Footer, might make it easier to put up and take down?


Thanks Dan that could be a good solution, i think even just a hole on both sites of the base then a bolt through would work as the base needs to be static anyway as the hub spins on the slipring. Looking forward to the mk3 and subscribed to all of the above just incase lol

Will the tower base be the same diameter so i can pop it on my already created mount?

Sure will, the pole will be the same dimensions. I'm in the process of reducing cost by printing the tower header bearings using a taper roller design, the first effort came out really well i'm printing the second with tighter clearance as I type. Here is the taper roller concept which saves the need for two of the location bearings.

Hi N3buchadn3zzar ,

Awesome project! I plan to print the MKII but I might just wait for the MKIII if it is close to being finished. Is it worth waiting?
Also, can you please group all the updates the MKII has received through time, here in Thingiverse? It's not easy to go search around on google! :) Cheers!

Hello Kiwi0ne, the contributes people have made can be found here;

The MkIII is 4-8 weeks away as a best estimate, as i'm sure you can appreciate the paperwork side of things takes a significant amount off effort to pull together. But i'm really happy with how its come together and the improvements that have been made.

Thanks Dan

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Hello all, I carried out a test today using the MkIII turbine with the MkII blade... the speed test peaked @ over 1700RPM.

Getting closer to finishing :)

Hi and great job !

I would like to know what are the NEMA11 Stepper motor exact dimensions. I would like to order one but NEMA11 seems to exits in different sizes.
Thank you

I'm afraid I'm not seeing it anywhere here but what is the recommended nozzle diameter. I can see the wall thickness is planned out for 1.2mm. I am wondering if this is meant to be achieved with a 0.4mm nozzle set to 0.4mm extrusion widths and 3 perimeters, or, a 0.5mm nozzle with auto extrusion width(0.6mm) and two perimeters?

Hello, I did everything with a 0.4mm nozzle.

Thanks Dan

Thanks. I'v started and that's what I'm going with

Well i've been doing some maintenance today on the turbine and hooked up a small boost converter so it takes the 12v input and makes it 27.6v (highest it would go) to top up my powerbank ever so slightly. I've also sneakily raised the pole it's on in anticipation of the new design with slightly longer blades, sure the neighbours won't spot it :-)

Oh and it's been holding up nicely in the high winds so far.

Hello Daniel,
Thank you for sharing your project, I just tested it and it works well.
However, I was wondering if you designed the whole blade yourself or if you started from a standard NACA blade profile. If so, would it be possible to know which profile you used ?

Hey VendraA,

I designed the blade starting from an NACA6409 and then scaled the hub, mid and tip plane parameters to reduce in Chord & Thickness with radial height. I've attached a chart with the lift drag curves for the aerofoil. I choose the NACA6409 due to the very steep lift profile so I could tune the AoA to max and then very quickly reduce lift either side of the design point (20 degrees) and therefore minimising the amount of movements the PvP had to make to stall the aerofoil at high speeds.

Cheers Dan

Hey Dan,

Thank you very much for your quick response, wasn't expecting such a quick and detailed response, I'm happily surprised !
It will help me redacting my report. I had to find, build and study a wind turbine for one of my class and yours was really enriching because it had a pitch control and swurl which is quite rare on domestic wind turbine as far as I know. It was really an interesting and fun build !

Again thanks a lot,
Alexandre V

Any news about the progress of the new design for NEMA23?
We started working with the vertical turbine and we wanted to test the difference between VAWT and HAWT in urban areas. Also, we wanted to try those vortex generators on the horizontal turbine to test the efficiency so we are waiting for your MIKIII, hope it comes out soon ^_^

Slow going with the split blade at the moment, difficult to model and difficult to print and assembly...
All the other parts are designed, printed and assembled and the gearbox runs very nice. The generator is impressive at low RPM!

Thanks Dan

You are trying a different design for the blades this time?
Concerning the low RPM subject, after we finished our vertical turbine we faced a problem with generating power. I know that the vertical turbine produces electricity less than the horizontal but we just got like 2 volts without any load connected. We didn't use any gears though we just connected the shaft to a stepper motor but not a NEMA version. We will try using gears, belts and pulleys, and other motor versions. So, i was wondering if u have any suggestions to produce more volts.
Also we faced another problem with the startup of the motion it appears to rotate by itself whenever there is sufficient air speed but after we attach the motor it becomes really harder to do so and it needs like a jump start or a very strong wind speed like from an air-blower to start rotating. So, if u have any suggestions for this as well that would be really appreciated.
I have attached a photo to help you imagine what it looks like. The rod is held by bearings in the wooden block.
Thank you greatly for your time and effort, Good Luck with the blade splitting problems and hope to see the design come into full bloom ^_^

Hey Petirdo,

Not a different aerofoil just twice the size :) ) it has a carbon fibre core for stiffness, its tricky to print so i've had to design custom supports and print all 3 blades at once like this (see attached) with a brim base support, this is just the outer section of the blade.

The tuning of rotational speeds with the generator for the design output is difficult and requires some maths. There is always a temptation to over do the gear ratio and try to spin the generator faster resulting in an increase in torque the turbine cannot overcome. The big advantage of the HAWT is rotation speed, I had the MkII spinning in the 1200-1400rpm range in 5m/s wind speeds which is insane, a 2:1 gear ratio doubles that and the output is good for such a small (1/2 meter) diameter turbine with little generator torque to overcome. The torque on the MKIII NEMA23 is huge!!! and therefore i'm using a 1:3 epecyclic reduction gearbox meaning I will have to spin the turbine faster and i've focused a lot of effort on making the bearing alignment and stiffness better to enable these higher RPM's. Bearing alignment and reducing flex in the shaft is important for overall efficiency, perhaps look at bearing alignment and try to reduce shaft flex for reduced mechanical drag, this will help out on start up and power output.

On the MKII if you slightly change one of the aerofoils to be out of alignment with the other two the rotation speeds for a given wind speed drastically reduces and this might also be true for the VAWT as the attachment to the centre rotor looks difficult to setup and align, perhaps try and take some measurements of the angles and ensure everything is nicely aligned? I use a RPi to measure RPM so I can do back to back tests using a fan and try and find the sweet spot of all the different things you can tweak?

I hope this helps in some way, let me know how you get on?

Cheers Dan

Hi Dan,

I find your project very interesting. I would like you to reduce my carbon footprint even if it may seem negligible.

To tell you everything I plan to put one or two of your turbines on my balcony to power a very miniature greenhouse (bonsais) and two or three other things. 12V 0.4A is not bad but is it possible to put several? I told myself that 2 or 3 on my balcony would hold perfectly. With one or two car batteries I could almost never fall short of power.
I have two questions:

  • can I use several wind turbines to charge a car battery at the same time in a simple way?
  • Would not I be better off waiting for your new design with a nema 23 or 17?

In any case, thank you for your work, you seem to be a great guy !!

Hi Juu, you can link multiple turbines together no problem, the MII seems a good match for 2-3 on a balcony. If you are using the circuit i provided you can simply tie them together. There would be no problem using a MKII & a MKIII it might actually work quite well as the MKII is likely to turn over at much lower wind speeds relative to the MKIII (I guess not got a MKIII running yet).

Hope this helps, cheers Dan

Hi, please pay attention that the Nema 23 will be larger than the current version.
Also, a Wind Turbine on a balcony won't be as efficient as the building will block the wind in certain directions.
If your orientation is good (south, south-est), you should consider using small Photovoltaic cells which are cheap and easier to use and to maintain :-)

Great project, I'm looking forward the mkIII which seems promising and cheaper :-)
I'm testing a VAWT at the moment with a Nema 23. I was considering making a generator in the near future but you seem to tell it's a waste of time. Some maybe improving the turbine efficiency is the way to go.

Did you consider adding vortex generators (can lead to 1.5 to 3% improved efficiency) ? http://www.windpowerengineering.com/business-news-projects/vortex-generators-boost-wind-turbine-performance-aep/
It could be glued on the the blades or integrated in the 3D model ?

Hello Bistory, what power output are you getting from the Nema23 VAWT and do you know the effective area? I had a go at a generator and the power output was really low and the kit to manufacture it was expensive, i've linked some pictures. I will look into the VG's and run some CFD on my blade with and without them thanks for the link!

Cheers Dan

Hi Dan,
I have no measure yet, I have to receive the MPPT charger to test it in real conditions but it is stuck in customs at the moment...
The VAWT is on freewheel now, waiting for the MPPT charger and a GT2 belt...
Once I have more information, I'll share them to you ;-)
About the generator, I saw this : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2635188 but the author has not shared any number yet :-)
The Nema 23 should deliver 20W easily for 10$, it's reasonable...

Gen6 - 3d printed, Halbach Array electric power generator

Amazing project you got there!!! Really hope you get credit enough... cant wait to see your nema 23 model! I do have 8 pcs of the german zebotronic nema 34 steppers laying around so if you go bigger please share :-)

Hey Kauping, thanks for the kind words :)

Oh teasing us with a new cover photo/render. Looking forward to the new model and keep checking back every so often.

Printing the parts as we speak matey, been slowed by upgrading UM2 firmware and cura 3 and the prints at the moment are totally useless the quality is so bad!!! might be best to try and revert to the older firmware to get the project moving forward. such a shame and waste of material!

Not good at all, couple of CR-10's and a soon to be mk3 over here so if you need a beta tester then just let me know :-)

Hows the prints going? I've done work on the current one and it's working nicely now, had to redo the slipring as the tail rod pierced the wires on reassembly. Working nicely as it's been windy in the uk this week.

The rod is now isolated from the cables to avoid damage.


Hi Colin, I've redesigned the pin on the Mkiii and now the wires are 100% protected and super easy to thread through the structure. I haven't got a Mkii running as I had to steal all the parts to get a Mkiii prototype up and running, everything but the blade is printed and assembled, I need the bigger blade to tune the gearbox ratio's and speeds. I shall have three blades ready to go by the weekend all going well.

Have you got any videos of your Mkii up and running out in the wild :)

Cheers Dan

Sounds excellent Dan, wasn't a criticism btw really appreciate the work your doing. I used head shrink when i installed the second slipring to protect the wires and was able to glue it to the side wall of the little chamber which meant that the rod didn't interfere with the wires.

I took a small video this morning in our lovely northeast weather :-)

That looks awesome, you have done a great job installing it on the Shed. I see what you mean about the size it works really well for that install position. Have you had any troubles with the water getting in and things?

Cheers Dan

I have been teamed up with a group to make a demo for wind turbine. We found your design to be really great for our requirements, but we are facing a problem here. The stepper motor nema 11 is not available in our country, we are only supplied from nema 17 so different dimensions. So, I was wondering if you can help us by making the modification for nema 17 motor or like upload the solidworks original files so we can edit them ourselves and also give a chance for anyone else who wants to modify the design according to their limitations and supplies.
Thanks in advance...

Hello, no not really it would require fundamental parameters in the design process to be changed thus resulting in a different turbine and therefore lots of new parts. I'm currently printing and testing a much bigger turbine that will use a NEMA23 and this is taking up my spare time.

Chinese companies ship everywhere are you sure you cannot get the stepper?


It would be cool if you could upload the solids anyways though, just saying. Save so much time rather than tracing meshes into proper curve sketches for the people looking to change things slightly.

I actually tried shipping NEMA11 stepper motor, but it turned out that this version is prohibited in my country!!
I would like to know if you have an approximate date when you finish the design for NEMA23 ^_^
Thank you for your time and effort

What do you mean prohibited?? And why ??

I asked for shipment of the motor through amazon, and before i could pay to confirm it they sent me an email saying that this product NEMA11 is prohibited to enter my country. They didn't state the reasons... I don't understand the meaning of this since we have NEMA 17,23, and 34 available in our country... That's why we are waiting for the new model of MIKIII to use NEMA23 instead of NEMA11

Hello Petirdo, I don't have an exact date but I can tell you I have a prototype up and running and am working on the reduction gearbox and the monster blades. I want to have the power curves available in the very near term which is exciting and I will keep you in the loop!

Cheers Dan

I would really appreciate that Dan ^_^
My team and I are really looking forward to making your design.
Thanks again for your great effort!

I can't seem to find the dimensions for the main tower bearing, could you please tell me those dimensions
Thanks in advance....

Hello, its the same bearing for both the main location bearing and the tower bearings.


wondering if anybody have the mod part to make this run quieter and smoother................. im looking at way how magnetics work and my mind is BLOWN!! =]

Hello, if its an oscillating sound like in the youtube video its most likely because the Cogs aren't concentric with each other (Centres are mis aligned). You can try printing the gen cog slightly smaller and therefore tighter to the spindle of the Stepper, or use a 3 point Grub screw arrangement and tweak them until the noise reduces. All other parts should be dead quite.

Cheers Dan

I don't find mine too noisy to be honest, there is a mod available for using a belt drive which is meant to quieten things down a little.

I forgot to say: Cool design!

have you tweaked your design to accommodate more standard size bearings??? im here in the states and i was looking at the design and was wondering if you can change the sizes to say a skateboard bearing size??? i have plenty of those and the fact they only cost $6 for 12 and the sealed ones work forever!! currently have them in several projects going back 7yrs now

i love your design and im pondering on how i could modifiy the bearings to a smaller size but in all honesty im awful at this, turbines are my dream but can't wrap my head around the designs. electronics is my hobby and i can see how to setup a RPi to monitor the output but other than that im in the dark.........if you have the time contact me directly

what did you do in the rectifier bridge for the ampage to charge say a battery bank? i assumed you went in series to have a higher amps to charge but to be honest not 100% sure what the ideal amps are needed. i will do quick internet search for the usb output =]


I must admit the bearings have caught me out a bit as in the UK it was really straight forward to get hold of the flanged bearings. I choose the flange bearings so I can print without support (design without overhangs) and flange bearings make this really easy. You could use skateboard bearings for the pitch bearings although they are a lot thicker and that might cause some issues but without measuring some I couldn't be sure. If you want a cheap solution how about design a plain bearing (no balls just sliding surfaces) and grease them. I could knock up a model if you want to print and test them?

I used an RPi to measure the RPM, and also have a current measuring device attached which is pretty cool on a Pi Zero Wifi with a tiny battery and charger. My codings pretty rough and ready though so its not very pretty :)

yes plz post some models of the grease bearings...... im down to print and test them out just send me measurements of the bearings and what type. i have no problem trying out new designs........ i sent you PM on here for some ideas. and i hope the MKiii is going smooth lots of us are really looking to see what you got going..

i currently have a magnetic levitation to test out and see what i can do with an burshless alternator. took me a week to make holders for the earth magnets not much space inside an alternator......fat fingers not good hahaah

Just thought i'd chip in here as i'm in the UK also. I found they were easily available in the UK but extremely expensive for a few bearings so i ended up getting them off ebay in the US which was then fulfilled from china to keep the costs manageable. I think it's an excellent design and really appreciate you putting up the design for free but i think you would get a lot more people making this if it were more standard/cheaper bearings.

Again not knocking you at all and see why you did the design this way but i think people would be more than happy to print with some support and work on the 3d print that way if it kept the costs much lower.

One thing to be aware of is the output is only 5w so it's going to take a long time to charge even a small battery bank. Don't get me wrong it's a great design and my kids loved it but for me it's just something fun for the kids. I'm really looking forward to his next design which shall be 50w and more usable power wise :-)

My calculations to charge a 10,000 mah battery bank would take 6hrs..... I'm just looking to have it charge my USB banks and once the larger size one gets done I like to use that to power LED lights in my garage. Even charge a power wheel battery just so I can have power in there whenever...

Just figure if he can reduce the cost of bearings this could be more beneficial to make as a hobby I try anything that's renewable energy....

My calculations show if I build 4 of thes 5 watt ones I can charge 8 RC battery packs in 6hts and that would give my work area 31hrs of continuous lighting...... that kinda over kill but be fun

I love everything renewable also and have a playhouse for my kids with it's own solar and powerwall i just have my doubts on the usefulness of 5w, like i said not being negative as it's a fantastic project. I broke my slipring in assembly as the bar for the tail has to pass by where the power wires routes and it's so easy to damage. Managed it the first time but on stripping it and rebuilding it just wouldn't go and they broke, have a replacement to go in but shall see if i can manage this one without breaking.

Re the bearings i agree and also the choice of stepper to a point as they were an obscure size wise it worked out quite expensive.

Good luck on the build.

My powerwall build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agXVW4nIOOg

sorry didn't have time to watch your video but i did and holy crap!!! same setup for my hunting cabin in the states but didn't do those batteries i did was car batteries since i had a few laying around and i worked at the junkyard for a while =] that 3d printed closer for batter shed needs to change =]

3d latch is working great it's not design to stop anyone breaking in just to stop the elements getting in which it's been doing well. Regards the power output I was getting around the 5w but the test I did but need to fit a new slip ring

Ya the bearings are tad expensive for a small project,.... 5 watt is something ideal to start and learn. I already figured I'd make multiple it be good.

Yea I see that park being the headache which is why I'm waiting fur him to design the MKIII which hope comes soon.

My other project I plan to use Altima for from my junk car to make one but I need to find a way to run the wires because in the guys video it just goes down the shaft but it will twist over time. Maybe if make some kind of connecting joint to feed power down

That's where a slipring comes in to let it rotate fully without any tangling wires.

The MKIII is taking shape, here is a preview!


It still has the small blades on in this picture but as you can see the generator is very much bigger, will be interesting to see how much it will produce...

that preview is beautiful but stop teasing more details... pic of model not cutting it =p

Looks fantastic, really looking forward to the MKIII, mine is in my back garden so the current size fits really well so would be happy with a design with the same size esp the base mount as i could do a straight swap. Might be able to get away with an upgrade of the blades if the neighbours don't notice ;-)

Hello. Are the Tower Location Bearings and the Pitch Bearings the same size? Thank you for your help

hello, no the tower Location Bearings and the main location bearings are the same size, the pitch bearings are very small.

Cheers Dan

I've tried several times to print the nose and nose cap. Somehow I don't get them to fit together - I even tried to print with .06mm layer height. Any chance you could modify the threads to make them easier to print and fit?

Hello, speed is the key try reducing the tip print speed to 20mm/s you could also scale the tip up 5% to help fitment. Note the thread is a left hand thread as to tighten as the turbine spins rather than loosen so tighten it in the opposite direction to a conventional thread.

Thanks Dan

Great Project here with so many detailed info about it.
I read that you ar currently working on MK III. Can you tell me a few things about the MKIII Turbine? What will change compared to MKII. When will MKIII be released? Many questions. I am in the planning phase now an dneed to decide if I print MKII or wait for MKIII.

Hey heduobacht,

The MkIII aims to improve the power to cost ratio of the Turbine by increasing the power output (targeting 50watt or x10) with a large reduction in the number of purchased parts. The aim is to also design the parts and print settings to produce the whole turbine within a single 90meter reel of plastic. Here is a list of the improvements made so far...

MkIII Improvements Incorporated

Passive Variable Pitch Mechanism
Piston & Piston Cover - Bore interface reduced to increase radial location and reduce un wanted movement in the pitching mechanism.
Piston & Piston Cover - Piston length increased and Piston cover made a through hole to increase radial location at extremes of pitching.
Piston Cover - Taper location feature with Shaft ID to locate the component and prevent out of parallel with the Pitch mechanism.
Crank - PCD of Crank increased x 1mm to reduce chance of cranking across the bolt hole.
Crank - OD to bearing increased 0.1mm to reduce gap and reduce un wanted movement in the pitching mechanism.
Crank - ID to bolt increased 0.1mm to increase gap and reduce the chance of cranking from high cycle fatigue.
Crank Arm - Increased length to reduce the chance of pitch reversal at maximum extension.
Structure Assy new part - Cable guard to protect cables from rotating shaft between the location bearings.

Designed for Mk1 Generator (removed Stepper)
Increase main location bearing seperation for increased roll stiffness.
Better bearing concentricity (both support on a single structure).
Removed the rear bearing structure and x2 bolts for fewer part count and better bearing alignmnet.
Reduced bearing end load for reduced resistence to rotation and increase bearing life.
Repositioned Stepper for reduced structure interference with rotor (top surface drag).
Shapped the tower transmistion for reduced structure interference with rotor (Bottom surface drag).
relocated tail rod nut inside structure to protect from the weather.
Removed x2 nacelle fixing screws.
Redesigned cable guard for new bearing positions with a thinner wall section for reduce material useage


Rotor Assembly
Shaft shroud tolerance reduced to remove need for PTFE tape
Nose cone tip & Disc changed to conventional thread
Nose Cone tip & Disc increased clearance 0.2mm on Dia

I've designed and printed the Generator which is really cool! picture here... I've had to design an automated tool to wind the coils I just need to write the code to control the tool.


Making good progress but I don't spend much time designing or printing during the summer when the weather is nice its more a winter hobby. I'm not sure how long it might take to be honest, very much depends on the performance of the generator and if I need to tweak the blade to match speeds for peak output.

thanks for the interest,


Being extremely cheeky as i know your doing this on your free time but i wondered how the MK3 was coming along?

Hello chickey thanks for the interest :)

Here are some pictures - I decided to go big!


I aim to print some prototype parts very soon.

Cheers Dan

PS yeah the generator is big - NEMA 23.

Hi Dan,
BTW it just dawned on me, have you ditched the idea of winding your own motor and just going with the premade NEMA 23 now? Looks nice and beefy, should generate some nice power :-)


Hi Colin, I designed/printed/wound the coils/and tested and the output was very much less than the Stepper and the amount of effort to get it to that stage was huge. I lost interested to be honest as i'm after power :). I can share all the models if someone wanted to pick it up and run with it...


Hi Dan, I'd have given it a go but in all honesty i'm with you on the power requirements. I think the turbine would be great with a higher output to keep my powerwall ticking over during the winter months. I use it for lighting which is all dimable so lower it all during the winter to conserve usage. In all honestly the Nema 23 option will make it a lot more accessible to people also.


Can't wait to build the MKIII!

Could you tell me what size grub screws are required for the cogs?

Hola que diferencia hay con los archivos en x_STL_Files.zip?

Hola, allí los archivos STL de samle así que ninguna diferencia. Gracias Dan

Very interesting design!
I wonder if a brushless motor (used for rc plane or drone) would not be more efficient than a stepper motor?
Did someone do some tests in this way?

Hey vnicolet, I used the stepper as you can get high voltage for low RPM and this lends itself to the relatively low turbine speed approx 600RPM. I didn't really want to design a multi stage gearbox, to make it work smoothly would need many small bearings.

But please by all means give it ago and let me know how you get on! :)

Cheers Dan

Comments deleted.

Anyone have an ebay link or know of a cheap source for the spring in the US. alliedelec.com carries them but with shipping and minimum order it is about $11 for the 1 little spring I need to finish this.


Hi Galway, did you manage to find a spring?

I made your project (now in beta), but I think he is too weak for the small lighting. Not clear with the output wires to the new version (made for his) and mount the base had to be redone to fit your requirements. Want to design for more powerful Nema motor, but with the expectation of the blades I have trouble. You can zoom in, but I do not know whether it will be. Mount towers had to remake the bearing 25x37x7 https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/6805-2RS-ABEC-1-10PCS-25x37x7-Metric-Thin-Section-Bearings-61805RS-6805RS/32761032172.html and pipe Diametro 50 mm
Sorry for my English, it is through yandex translator.

Hello, if you want more power run the turbine faster by reducing the pitching weights or by increasing the spring stiffness. With extra speed comes extra risk of course, the turbine will vibrate more and this could lead to the failure of the printed parts and release of high energy debris. Any modification is at your own risk.

I'm not sure what you mean by to weak for small lighting, the turbine will produce 5watt and can power a 5watt bulb, from the graphs in the instruction manual you can see the power output curves. During testing I ran the turbine well beyond 1200 RPM! it just vibrates a lot and with better materials (ABS) would be ok but i'm not so sure with PLA its rather brittle.

Is anyone in the US building this. I am having a hard time finding local suppliers for the bearings. Especially the main location bearing.

I'm building it. Currently printing it. I have not ordered hardware or anything as of yet. I can't find the shaft .stl

Hey, i've re-uploaded for you hopefully you can see it now? If not its also in the Zip folder. Cheers Dan

All, i've been tinkering with bearing end load by adding a spacer between the Shaft Nut and the shaft at 0.1mm thickness. Even this slight reduction in bearing end load reduces overall friction significantly and the Turbine spins more freely!

Thanks Dan

Hello, what is the best way to connect the wind turbine to a standard lithium battery (for mobile devices etc)?
I tried to use this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-Micro-USB-5V-1A-18650-TP4056-Lithium-Battery-Charger-Module-Charging-Board-With-Protection/32728720869.html
but the motor has to turn very fast to start charging, is there a better way? thanks

Hi Fakoleon,

Thats an interesting unit i've not seen that one before.

I believe you need a high current & lower voltage and should therefore wire the rectifier bridges in parallel and not in series as drawn in the wiring diagram supplied in the instruction manual. See this video for a demo:

This will hopefully give a higher current to charge your battery.

Cheers Dan

Brilliant project, almost finished printing all the parts and have the motor/slip ring and just waiting on a few parts to arrive. One thing i've been struggling to get at a decent price is the machines screws. Does anyone know if there is anywhere in the uk that sells assortment sets at reasonable prices?

Also anyone find the bearings at reasonable cost, it's nearly £50 just for the bearings which i hadn't taken into account :-(

PS worth checking E-bay.com for the bearings a lot of people have been able to get them at a reasonable price...

Hi Chickey, sorry for the delay i've been on holiday.

I get my screws as a set from Amazon:

For the bearings I got mine from Simply bearings in the UK:

I appreciate the cost of the purchased parts soon mount up and i'm working on removing as many as possible in the MKIII.

Thanks Dan

Hi Dan,
Thanks for taking the time to reply, with the help of doober i found some bearings. Flanged ones seem far trickier to find. As you pointed out ebay.com was my saviour and i got some main bearings for under $4 each, i'd have like to have used simplybearings but the cost difference is huge and would end up being extremely costly. I've all parts printed now, i have a CR-10 3d printer so was able to do the blades in one piece. Hopefully the bearings don't take too long and i can assemble it to supplement my 100w of solar on my playhouse project which has 4.4Kwh of recycled lithium batteries. I'll pop up links to the ones i purchased to help people, also thanks for the amazon link, the machine screws should be such a simple thing but dang they tricky to find in decent pack sizes, have prime so shall get that ordered today.


Hi Colin, be cool to see the set-up with the solar and wind once complete!

Cheers Dan

Comments deleted.


Sympa de prime abord mais les pièces sont à ajuster pour les logement de vis par exemple.
De plus, il y à un problème de conception concernant la passage des fils du moteur au mat via e contacteur rotatif car la barre de queue bouche le trou de passage!!!!!! incroyable une telle erreur, les gars n'avaient pas fini le projet avant de le poster.
Seule solution, percer la barre de 6 mm pour faire passer les câbles ou trouer les supports et passer à coté.

Hi jperaud, There is no issue with the routing of wires from the slip ring into the tower. The hole in the pin is elliptical the wires pass either side of the M6 threaded rod. Install the slip ring into the pin and run the wire through the hole. Install the pin into the structure. Put a screw driver down the hole used to insert the M6 rod and push the wires to either side, carefully insert the M6 rod using the screw driver to move the wires.

I would recommend you take care when posting such comments as they come across very negative and aggressive just remember these things are shared for FREE, starting with thanks for sharing your design and I hope you can help with a small issue i'm having might have been a more appropriate way of starting the conversation.

For those wanting the translation jpgeraud wrote:

Nice at first but the parts are to be adjusted for the housing of screws for example.
Moreover, there is a design problem concerning the passage of the motor wires to the mast via the rotary contactor because the tail bar clogs the through hole !!!!!! Incredible such a mistake, the guys had not finished the project before posting it.
Only solution, pierce the bar of 6 mm to pass the cables or to pierce the supports and to pass to side


i can not find .stl for shaft item No.8.

Best regards Alex

Hello, all files are in the ZIP folder, i've also added it if you don't want to use the ZIP.

Thanks for letting me know.


Hi, in an other website you have an alternative version using belt, but it seem there is two stepper motor, is that your next version or it is still the MKII? is there stl file for it? thanks

Hello, the twin Stepper belt drive was the test rig I used to design the MkII, it had active Pitch control and an RPM sensor and things to help gather data to refine the design.

The belt drive mod can be found here:

Thanks Dan

Great design. Do you have the SOLIDWORKS files available? If so, how can I obtain them?
David P.

All, i've added a cable guard into the 'Thing files' with an explanation picture with the other pictures. Simple push fit ring to protect the slipring and stepper cables from the main shaft.

Thanks Dan

Do you have any photos or instructions showing how to run the wires down through the slip ring? It seems like they would interfere with the shaft and/or the threaded rod for the tail fin.

jburnchm1, I had the same issue so thought I better solve it so i've added a cable guard into the 'Thing files' with an explanation picture with the other pictures. Simple push fit ring to protect the slipring and stepper cables from the main shaft.

Hope this helps, cheers


Awesome. I was thinking of designing something similar myself but didn't have time yet. I'll definitely print one. I should have the rest of the plastic parts finished today, and all the hard parts are on order. Hoping to assemble it next week.

Hello jburchm1. here are some pictures - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B1OoBxMaa0WLWFdoX2lKYk5RRmc?usp=sharing

The slip ring was a late addition to the design and the cable routing isn't ideal however hopefully you can see how I did it in the pictures, I routed both the slip ring plus the Stepper wires through the same passage and then connected them inside the nacelle, it can be done but its tight and will require patience. To protect the wires I used this cover designed by another user linked below. I housed the power electronics in the tower out the way and nice and dry, the user in the link below housed the power in the nacelle both will work and its totally up to you.


Let me know how you get on...

Thanks Dan

hi, your link's is expired for buy item. I need to buy all item for make your project, where i can get all stuff ?

Hello, the dimensions for the bearings are in the manual you can get them from anywhere you like eBay?

Hello all,

I want your feedback, if I was to develop a MkIII wind turbine what changes would you want to see?


Would a bigger motor make more power? I have a spare NEMA 17 that I would love to use in a new version of this turbine.

One issue i've run into is with the size of the base. I was unable to find anything to snugly fit into the diameter of the base. This is not a big deal because it got me to practice with TinkerCAD and make this coupler: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163582. I guess i could've scaled your base file...

Also, the larger bearings were a little difficult to find ad a decent price. It was either spend about $15 EACH to get the quickly in the US, or about half that for all 4 to get them from China and have to wait like 4 weeks. (I screwed up and only ordered 2 the first time...now im waiting again for the other 2) So if there was a more standard size or anything that would make them easier to get, that would be nice.

These are by no means big issues, just the only thing i can think of that made it a bit of a pain to get this together. The actually printing process was great.

PS. I Also came up with these so the base can be stuck into the ground. It could make the turbine a little more portable, for camping trips etc. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2163572

Tower + Base Coupler for MKII Wind Turbine
by Doober
Ground Steak for MKII Wind Turbine
by Doober

Hi Doober, do you have any links for the bearings you got. I've spent a long time searching and i can't find them for a reasonable cost on places like ebay etc. I can find the non flanged versions but i'm guessing these won't be suitable. I'm willing to wait to get them from China to save costs.

I found mine on ebay. Here are the links:



For the larger bearings, I actually found it better to remove the shield and get ALL of the grease out of the inside. They spun MUCH more freely after that.

Thanks Doober, really appreciate the reply but sadly they don't ship to the UK. It did however confirm that the smaller bearings could be 5mm and i'd found them for a reasonable price on ebay.co.uk. And it also made me remember to look on ebay.com rather then than the UK site and i've found some for around $4 each which isn't too bad, certainly a lot better than the local sellers as they want at least $10 each.

Hi Doober, thanks for the feedback much appreciated.

I'm going to be working on a MkIII design with a goal of 10x the power ~50 watt, I have some concepts i'm working on. The easiest way to make more power with this turbine is to increase the spring stiffness to reduce the un-pitching at speed, be careful though as the speed goes above 600 RPM the vibration increases and component failure is more likely (plus its pretty scary to be around at those speeds). I did a test when setting up the PVP with fixed pitch blades and got the turbine well over 1400 RPM, at those types of speeds its possible to get 24volts 1 amp. I will record a video and post it up soon...

Bearings/tower size, check. I will consider more widely available and cheaper bits. I like the parts you have designed the pegs are a great idea, I ruined 2 blades when the Turbine fell over!

Thanks For your support and its great to see your print!

Thanks Dan

I am loving what is going on here. I would love to see an upscaled version, even as large as 20 inch blades. I had a wind tower that would maintain 150 watts with 20 inch blades. It used a simple flexible blade that provided stall at overspeed conditions, and used basically a sturdy broom handle pole as a tower and pivoted on top. Coupled with the right servo motor and rectifier, you have a full size wind tower to charge deep cycles.

Also, AcrimoniousMirth won a university competition for most efficient and presentable turbine design. He offered his data in another thread, which is quite substantial. It may be worth contacting him for some data for MKIII.



Hi Dejavu, thanks for the information I will contact Acri and see what he has that might be of use.

My first aim before going bigger is to get all the performance out of the turbine at this size, I've been looking at alternative aerofoils in the CFD wind tunnel (I've added some pictures to the 'thingy' if your interested, it shows the total flow around the turbine) and reducing bearing end load to reduce friction as well as how best to configure the generator circuit... Lots going on and hopefully I can push the power output further still :)

Stay tuned!!

Thanks Dan

I would love to have bigger blades (for a little more power) that are split up so one can print it. Maybe you could design this with wooden screws or so... anyways I'm preparing for printing this soon! Looks awesome!


I had a link to another website with a split blade to make it easier to print but it looks like the user has removed the design which sucks. PS if you want more power increase the strength of the return spring a little (5-10%) This will increase the power output for the same wind speed assuming your electronics can handle the extra power :)

Total bummer, i've a CTC dual and the print bed is just too small to print the blades so was looking for a split design file:-(

Hold fire, I will ask around and see if anyone managed to download it before it was removed. Failing that I could split them for you I don't think it would be much work.


The first thing that springs to mind is the method of inserting screws. I would forget self tappers and use machine screws. The hole for the screw will be the std tapping size and as deep as possible. I usually start the thread with a tap or a modded screw about 2 turns deep and then use the screw. It will force the plastic around the screw making for a very strong and servicable thread. Most threads that are "cut" into the plasic will not survive tinkering.
I hope this helps.

Thanks for the feed back, yeah your right I have had to repair a couple holes with Super glue or use PTFE tape when the get a little lose.

Cheers Dan

does anyone else have trouble getting the nose tip to screw on? ive reprinted the cone and the tip twice now, slower and slower, to get the threads perfect, but they just will NOT go together

Left hand thread

I knew that...still won't go. It starts, but then gets tight and cross threaded

Hi Doober, you could try upscaling the part and see if that helps, 1-2% would be a good place to start? It was on the tight side for me also, I used a file to clean the gap between the threads, this helped a bit.

Thanks Dan

Can anyone post a picture of their electronics and how they wired everything up? I'm a rookie when it comes to reading schematics...I think i have a good idea of how to do it, but would love to see an example of the actual components all together. I mocked everything up, and I'm pretty sure I got some charge in the capacitors by spinning the rotor by hand, but I dont know how to include the voltage regulator into the circuit, or how to connect anything to actually power it. (LED light etc.)

Is this missing the "Shaft" file? it is part #8 on page 6 but I dont seem to see it in the list of files.

Nevermind, It is in the .zip

Thanks. Cant wait to get this thing working!

I like the design very much! Im thinking about printing it.
However, theres not much info about the non-printed parts (among other things), as the links in the manual redirect to a non-existing page.
Also, I saw a picture with 2 stepper motors in the hub. Is that the same design as the stl files?


All the bearings have the dimensions written next to them in the manual, what more information do you require? Single stepper motor as per the drawings. the duel was a different conversation about active Pitch control no need to worry about that.


Oooh, my apologies! I looked over that info. Ill keep my mout shut until I printed the parts! :D

But I still have a question about the PVP though:
Is it right that the blade pitch increases with increasing rpm?
Why is that? I always learned that the pitch should decrease with increasing rpm, as the tangential velocity increases at higher rpm.

The blade pitch will decrease as the speed increases to reduce lift and slow the RPM to the design point. Have a read of the first couple of pages of the manual it should all become clear :)


could this wind turbine be modified to install the jaw system perhaps? I would like to install a little electric motor to make it move according to the wind direction. I know this has an automatic system on the tale, right?

Great work by the way, amazing!

Thank you

A yaw system? Yeah sure i don't see why not, I used another stepper motor in an active pitch control version linked below. No reason you couldn't use something similar to yaw the turbine into the wind. The stepper used a power control board and RPi that a could remote log into and monitor the pitch that was being controlled by a RPM sensor.


Take a look at the second picture in...


Hi N3buchadn3zzar,

Would you have the link for the split blades?

Thanks in advance,


Do you have a link for the non-printable components

Hello, check out the instruction manual for links/specs.

Thanks Dan

I know it says nema 11 stepper... but there's different motors there's .2A per phase up to .8A per phase. Which one did you use to get 5 watts?

thank you got the parts on order looking forward to printing this!!!

Really nice design! I have some spare bearings that would work in this but they are different sized. Is there any possibilities to get solidworks files to modify the bearing housings?


If you search "mkII 5 watt 3d printable wind turbine" on google you will find some upgraded parts for the wind turbine things like:

  • Blade split into two parts for easy printing
  • 2GT Belt drive option for reduced noise and higher gear ratios
  • A protective cover for the Shaft Nut to ensure no rotating items contact the electrics
  • An alternate Tower header diameter and slip ring assembly design for a smaller diameter tower pole

You will also find some pictures/videos and general discussion and advice on printing, assembly and operation.

Thanks Dan

Outstanding bit of design and very generous to share. I have a couple of questions that arose during the printing of some parts.

Rotor Assy. item 14 calls for M3 x 12 self "taping" screws to be used in a dia 4 hole (item 1) with a matching 4mm hole in item 6 Is this to use a thread insert or a larger self tapping screw? Also item 3 looks like it needs a countersunk version of item 14 which if a self tapping screw will not make a good bearing.
Also curious to see how to access the head of item 13 when setting the blade pitch angle.

Hello and thanks for the kind words.

I see the problem, there should be 6xM3 machine screws called out as item 14 in the lower right view and then 3xM4 self tapping screws in the upper view attaching the nose cone to the disc. Sorry I made a last minute change and didn't catch this...

Item 3 is a printed part and its the pitch arm (black), no need for anything counter sunk the parts don't overlap at any point.

Item 13 is an interference fit with item 2, its very difficult to install as it needs to be locked in place (I used a battery drill and drove the bolt home). Item 13 will need installing in all 3 positions prior to assembly into the disc (take a look at the picture with all the parts laid out you can see them pre assembled). The pitching of the blade doesn't require assess to the bolt as its all connected to the pitch mechanism so by depressing the piston when tightening the blades you effectively hold the bolt captive. To get the blade tight enough and get the correct pitch I used rubber o-rings so I could compress the ring and get the perfect pitch angle, you could also use washers or even a cut down spring. Its really important not to over pitch the blades as I've set them right on the very edge of stall for maximum lift even 0.5 degrees on a single blade will cause a stall if in doubt under pitch them to start with.

I hope that was clear and helpful.

Have fun, Dan


There is no information about the size the the Main Tower Bearings needed for this build. Could you please supply the information.

Thanks in advance,


Hello, they're the same as the main location bearings.

Thanks Dan


Have you a link for bearing ?

Hello, take a look at pages 14 - 16 in the instruction manual there are some links and dimensions if you want to source your own. Hope this helps :)


Thank you ! I've just downloaded it perfect ! ;)

Whats the out put? You say 5 watts but the you say 12v and 4 amps witch is more like 50 watts

Sorry typo - 0.4 amp so 5Watt. I've changed it in the description thanks for the heads up :)