Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise

by TheGoofy, published

Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise by TheGoofy Jan 26, 2017

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This is a quite robust 3d-printable machine vise. It's 100% 3d-printed - no screw or other piece of hardware is needed to hold the individual pieces together. Pieces clip and snap together.

It's a demonstration that it is very important to consider forces and material properties already when designing a mechanical object. Hints about proper design are presented in my video:


The video also includes explanations how to assemble this vise.

For 3d-printing it's recommended to print 3 shell layers. 35% infill is sufficient. All the forces for clamping a workpiece are only active at the outer surface - more infill doesn't make the vise more robust. Layer height is 0.15 mm (maybe screws are better printed with 0.1mm layers). No support material needed. Printed with 0.4 mm nozzle.

Assembly: https://jig.space/view?jig=1216 (thanks to http://www.thingiverse.com/greenlig)
Designed with Fusion 360: http://a360.co/2juhSUG

If there are difficulties to print the threaded rods vertically, I've designed a version of the sliding jaw with horizontally printed rods: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123529


Overview and Background

Very often people just try to 3d-print common mechanical objects. But the traditional shape of these objects is often not 3d-printable, and if an object was successfully printed, it maybe does not work, or it is not strong enough.

For mechanical objects it is therefore required to adapt the design depending on its future use. If you're familiar with some CAD-tool, and if your creating designs for 3d-printing. I recommend to think about the special material properties of 3d-printed parts.

Lesson Plan and Activity

Actually I recommend to watch my video on YouTube. With this knowledge you will be able to design better 3d-printable mechanical objects: c-clamp, pliers, stands, geared-transmission, camera-mounts, ...

Materials Needed

A spool of PLA, or PETG, a 3d-printer, some CAD-Tool (Fusion 360, or Tinkercad, ...)

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I went to buy a stud M4

Your design is amazing. Every part prints perfectly with just the right tolerance for a tight fit and smooth movement.
I hope I can teach myself to create such good working designs.
Thank you very much for generously sharing this fantastic design.
I will post my vice in the makes section when there is some good light to get some decent pictures.

Jun 13, 2017 - Modified Jun 13, 2017

Thank you for the well thought out video and relevant data.

I thought this might be of interest to you... I just watched this video by Thomas Sanladerer, where he does some initial testing with materials strength and stiffness after annealing a few different plastics including PLA. Albeit there was some shrinkage/expansion, he obtained about 40% increase in strength and 25% in stiffness after baking plain PLA for 1 hour at 110*C. He covers his methodology and shows snapshots of the tests.


Jun 11, 2017 - Modified Jun 11, 2017

I love it. Made on a Prusa i3 MK2S. Great design.

I had no issues with gears and I user slicer for mk2s. Everything was printer at 100%.

I popped the large pin off the front and have it pinned and glued. Gorilla glue gel works the bet so far.

You did a great job on your PLA stress video! Wow, excellent work! The vise didn't work out for me due to issues described by others with the gears but I did find another way to enjoy your vise. I had a lot of fun with my print.

Perhaps this video will inspire you for future stress test videos.


Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise
by NCHippy

what should i do if my printable area is not big enough

Has anyone had success printing this on a printrbot simple? I've tried a few times but my gears never fit right. Any chance someone can use calipers to get measurements on the threads so I can tell what part of the print is off? Thanks!

Great video, great work. Thanks for sharing.

I just printed the parts, but the sizes are not correct on my print, now i know this is not a design problem, but i want to know, does anyone can help me with my settings?? im using craftware to slice.

Made the base pieces today, working on the screwed carriage tonight. I am very pleased with the capability of my bowden converted I am still amazed at how this budget will print clear PLA

Wonderful ! Just wanted to note though that mine needs seven clips not six like it shows in your video.Thanks, I'll post a picture when done.........

Very well done, and thank you for the excellent explanation of orientation of 3D prints and mechanical strength. I hope to print your vice in a smaller scale

Very cool! Thumps up

I built one today and it's amazing! What a great design. Thanks very much.

A possible modification to great design is to have pegs or holes on the bottom to stop it moving on a table.

Here, here! Would be a nice, functional addition.

That's a great idea! I'd love to be able to bolt this to my drill press.

I agree with 104% XY on main gear. Everything else printed as-is, but I'm only using 1.5 'pins' to hold the two halves together.

Awesome design! I made one and the main body parts felt rock solid and fit together nicely. I don't think I've ever had this much success with a multi-part build before. I'm printing in PLA on a Printrbot. I did have to print the main gears at 103% XY keeping Z at 100% and there was a little bit of filing and oiling. Bit, I am impressed! Great design. Great Video. Thanks for the effort.

Thank you for this design, it is excellent.
I did have to oversize a little the main gears by 4% on the X and Y axis because they would have too much friction on the screws initially.

Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017

Excellent design, thanks for sharing.
The idea of interchangeable custom clamping plates is particularly good. Any chance you could provide a step or parasolid of your original designs for these parts, it would save a lot of time for anybody wanting to make their own designs. That would be much appreciated.

This should not be called "Yet another machine vice". It should be called "The best machine ever". It printed perfectly. Fit together perfectly with a minimum of cleanup with the minor exception of the holes for the base clip pins which were a little tight. And best of all it works great. Thanks for the project and the great video. I am constantly amazed at the generosity of contributors.

Excellent design. Just printed. Everything went smoothly.

Thank you for sharing this and also for sharing your knowhow in the video.

Thank you.... for me, it's one of the best working pieces in thingiverse. Great job !

Trying out this project on my new Taz 6 with Taulman bridge nylon filament and learning a lot. First of all, don't do what I did and lay out all the parts to print at once. There's a few problems doing that, especially with a bridging filament. One is after 14 hours of all the parts sitting on the hot plate, they began to discolor/burn. So printing one at a time will solve that problem. Also, because the printhead has to jump around between all the parts, it created a lot of threads/globs and a general mess. In fact, I think I'll cut the piece with the two threaded rods into halves and glue them together physically later with epoxy (jumping between the rods gummed up the threads a bit). And, speaking of that part with the threaded rods, the default infill makes that component too weak. The other parts seem fine, though. Thanks for the design! I should have paid closer attention to the description/directions. :')

Awesome video and very nicely explained. Thanks, I'll make one!

I think not

Brilliant. Many thanks for sharing :D

XD is better XD

Great design and video!
I'm having problems with to tight clearances, I use PLA, Cura and a wanhoo i3, 0.2 thickness for gear and sliding jaw, and 0.3 for the rest.
the slider sticks to the base and wont slide, the gears sticks on the rods if I can get them on, and I don't need the pins since the base parts sticks hard to each other.
Any hints on what I'm doing wrong? do I need to post process the parts?

Excellent! I love it!! This has to be on the top of the list for proper clearances for moving parts and functionality.
Thank you!

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 4, 2017

Excellent video and project TheGoofy.
But please explain why you used two different printers?
And would you be willing to share this in Fusion360?

Mar 4, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017
TheGoofy - in reply to 3DWORX

Because I have two printers, I let them both work - it's quicker.
The link for the Fusion 360 file is in the description.

I have 3 printers ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

I have two 3D printers and a laser engraver/cutter. ;)

I hav al the toode prentres (2D) an all th lazerz prentrez!!! ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

I have a pencil.

and my axe

I'm curious about the manufacturing quality from the two printers. I have a MakerBot Z18.
Did you find either printer more suited to printing particular components than the other?
How would you compare the ease of use of the software and devices themselves, and the output quality?
Would you recommend one printer over another since they're both FDM/FFF?


Actually I prefer the UM, because of the lighter print-head (less vibration), and the illumination (maintenance work). Extremely important are rigid frame and guides with low play and friction. I'd wish both of my printers were a bit better from this aspect.

Thanks for sharing your Fusion360 file Goofy. My son will show this in his Design & Technology class at school.

Great design. Printed up perfectly with PLA on a Prusa mk 2. I am having an amusing problem with vise_sliding_jaw_plate where the printer seems to just shift the x axis over a bit when it gets near the top layers. It only happened with that part. I moved on and printed the sliding jaw no problem, so it's not the printer. I figured I had a bad .gcode file so I re-scliced it in slic3r and the exact same thing happened on what looks to be the same layer. Strange. I think I found a bug in slic3r. Thankfully it gets close enough to the end that the part is usable so no harm.

Mar 14, 2017 - Modified Mar 14, 2017
BManx2000 - in reply to hberg32

How weird! I just printed it on my MK2 and EXACTLY the same thing happened to me.

I turned that one part sideways and it then printed fine. Hope that works for you too.

Protip: I had trouble with the drive gear slipping on the 2 "main gears." Scaled the "main gears" in x and y 103% (not z) and it works perfectly.

Nice. Thanks for this post. I was just starting my 102% main gear attempt (during which I thought "should I be scaling the Z?" and after my 101% print) when I came up and read this comment while looking for the thread size. I went back down, cancelled the print and reset to these XY 1.03 settings. I have high hopes! Thanks again. -joe PS I'm still going to order an M12 tap, just in case!

Yeah I'm having the same issue. Probably gonna do exactly as you said... if I can get the thing back apart.

Excellent construction, went on my to-be-printed list!
Have you ever tested how much pressing force the vise would stand? I do not have a specific needs, just for curiosity. On basis of your force experiments video it could be some 30-40kg?

Awesome work! Well designed and could be printed without any troubles. I love the clips. Thank you!

With ABS it did need a lot of sandpaper work on the rods and the slider but now it works perfectly.

How do i post a file on thingiverse? I have something i want to publish

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017

Since you have an account, there should be a create button to the left of the search bar, then choose upload a thing. Once you do that, it should show you what you need to do for each part. Happy posting!

Feb 26, 2017 - Modified Feb 26, 2017

very nice work, I like it very much.
After printing at 60% and troubles with the threads and gears I printed again at 100%, Threads and gears fitting perfectly. :-)
No machining was neccesary.

I have a question regarding the designing:
For 3D Printing normaly holes are too small and rods are too big.

  • one reason is a not well set printer
  • second reason is the STL Format itself (discribing circular characters with triagles, small holes even worser as bigger holes)
  • third reason is the contraction of the polymer itself while cooling (PLA different than ABS).

Normaly this things are no problem because you can machining holes and rods after printing, holes very easy by drilling.

But do you design the parts with this knowledge of this three reasons? (Except the first one because you could not know).

Hi Agent Smith.

I think one of the big problems, when scaling down a model are thinn walls. If these walls become thinner than 2 traces with the nozzle, then the quality of the print gets really bad. When I'm creating a design, I'll check that none of the thinn walls are smaller than 0.8 mm (2 x 0.4mm nozzle diameter). I think the vise has such problematic regions around the holes for the pins. This means downscaling is only possible, when printing with a smaller nozzle. Or when somebody wants to print the vise with a 0.6mm nozzle, he won't be able to get a clean nice print, unless he scales it up to 150%.

Anyway ... I don't consider the STL triangulation for my designs - I'm working with Fusion 360 and when exporting STL, I'm selecting the highest resolution. I also don't consider shrinkake for models printed with on type of material. Variations of printer quality are still extremely high, and considering it in the design would be extremely random. As long as a good slicing software allows to compensate printing flaws, I prefer to design objects for a "perfect" world, and let the Slicers fix the problems. I mainly consider the rippled surface and the print-orientation in my designs. If support-material is required, it needs to be at locations, where accuracy doesn't matter ...

Hi Goofy,
thanks for your very generous answer.
At first, yes you are right the thin wall problematic is the main problem with scaling.

I did not mean exact your STL file. I meant the STL Format itself where holes were discribed as a function out of triangeles. I think big holes like the thread in 12mm are not problematical but holes with diameter of 2, 3 or 4 mm are mostly much smaller as in the design.
In the internet there are tables available where for a defined real diameter a diameter is given for how you have to design the hole in CAD to reached the defined diameter.

But your are definitly right and I am on your side if you say in CAD you design the part in a perfect fit and compensate in the slicer if neccesary. That is a good approche because the 3D model should be perfect without any compensation because then you can mill it out of metal or other materials.

Yes I'm aware of the triangles in the STL-file-format. Fusion 360 does a good job, when exporting STL: there are quality parameters to adjust the maximum deviation from the ideal surface. Depending on the object shape, it will generate smaller triangles in order to meet the quality requirements. The STL-format is certainly not ideal, but its simplicity is unbeatable.

Ok I am a beginner in designing in CAD, in real life I am a chemist so I am only a amateur in this topic.
I can follow you and I did not know that Fusion 360 has this options. I use Freecad for designing simple obejcts.
Perhaps I will switch to Fusion.

Perhaps FreeCAD does it even better? Fusion isn't perfect either ...

I don't know. I am a beginner and have no mechanical background.
So I can't judge about FreeCAD or Fusion.
I don't know any function of FreeCAD where you can select the quality of the STL export.

seems that the "workbench" method has more options

Feb 27, 2017 - Modified Feb 27, 2017
agentsmith1612 - in reply to TheGoofy

Thank you very much :-)
What I said I am a beginner and don't know all, but able to learn.
Thanks for your sufficient help.

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 24, 2017

Anyone having this issue when printing with ABS. I cant screw the gears on its too tight.


I cant get them on either so i used the "Horizontal expansion" and set it to -0.1 og now it fits perfectly. I used cura to slice

Does anyone know if there a similar setting in S3D?

Congratulations on this wonder, Thingiverse needs more projects like this. Very well designed

Any idea what might cause the print to drift? All the parts have printed perfectly except now I'm having trouble with the base. Here is what it looks like: http://i.imgur.com/jAkZBRF.png

An overheating stepper driver chip can cause that. If your set screws / belts all look good, then check your electronics board. Make sure your electronics are getting plenty of air flow, and consider putting heatsinks on the stepper drivers.

Check the set screws on the gears attached to your stepper motors. I had the same thing happening and that was my problem. The shaft was spinning loosely inside of the gear, so it would shift the print.

Ok. But do you know why that would start happening so late into the print? I other words, why did it print so much of it before having this happen?

The same thing would happen to me. I guess that the there may be enough friction between the stepper motor shaft and the gear to print some of the print but then it hits a point where it breaks loose and that's when the shifting occurs. I had prints that looked great on the top and bottom but shifted in the middle.

I guess the acceleration (or speed) for the travel moves is too high.

Really cool design, would really like to print this, would this still work if everything is scaled down to ~70%?, the base is bigger than my print bed

May 14, 2017 - Modified May 14, 2017
Pa39 - in reply to Q24H

Hey, did you tried it ? i would also like to print it something like 70%, it works ?

Edit: sorry that's ok, i just looked at the answers too late :p

Did you try turning the base pieces 45%? Straight they didn't fit on my Taz Mini either, but after turning them 45%, they fit just fine.

Feb 22, 2017 - Modified Feb 22, 2017
TheGoofy - in reply to Q24H

@GregoryHolloway has printed a smaller version: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:304044
Potentially the threads are a problem to print with a regular printer. Maybe you try this remix: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123529

Horizontally printed rods for ANOTHER Machine Vise
Yet ANOTHER Machine Vise

Thanks! I'm using the horizontal rods and at 70% everything is still silky smooth, going to pop in some different colored filaments tomorrow and finish it up!

Comments deleted.
Feb 21, 2017 - Modified Feb 21, 2017

I printed the yellow threaded part but my threads look thin and uneven. Is there a way to upload a picture so that I can show what I mean? The red knobs would only thread on the width of the knob before binding up.

You can upload a make or put pictures on Google Drive and share the link

Comments deleted.

Very good design! I could imagine to use it on a cnc router. The advantage is that it will lower the risk of crashing the endmill into raw steel. For this purpose the vise still needs two latches to clamp it on the mills bed.

I am really impressed how this whole thing comes together without glue or screws! How many test prints did you make until you got everything fit so nicely?

I printed on a Lulzbot Taz Mini, and some pieces were a bit tight. I had to file down the two surfaces of the sliding piece as is was binding on the base pieces, and I reduced the thickness of the clips to 2.4mm to get them to fit through the slots.

Great design, Thanks!
did anyone tried to upscale it?

Feb 20, 2017 - Modified Feb 20, 2017
facile - in reply to TheGoofy

huge, my plate is 250x210x200 so I can surely upscale to 150% OR 170%

Very well thought out. Nice job!

Being lazy, I created a drill bit adapter to drive the vise handle. I found it to be faster and easier on my hands :)

Power Drill Adapter for Yet Another Machine Vise

Great Design! I just started to print it.

Very nice design, but when I want to import it to my A360 it doesn't work (link throws 404)

Hey, I printed it yesterday but The Main gear does not yet assemble with the rod even though i printed the main gear with 0.1mm layer height.
Its just stuck and won't insert nor rotate
Can I use a M12 Thread cutter to make it working ?

Yes, this will work - it's a regular M12 thread. Alternatively, you could try with different print settings (obviously the printed traces are too wide). Try to reduce the material flow, or specify a larger nozzle diameter than your printer actually has.


This looks really good, I am looking forward to printing it.

Just one question, what is the biggest PCB that can be held in this vise?


The distance between open jaws is 68 mm.

Thanks for the quick response.


Great video, explains how important orientation is while printing

If I can make a suggestion. Perhaps it is just my inexperience, but I print in PLA on a heated bed 60C. I have a hard time getting pieces off the print bed when they have a large surface area in contact with the bed. So I started chamfering the edges of my designs and that has made it easier to get a spatula in to pry off the piece.

Am I doing something wrong with my printing method? I am worried about printing the base plates for this reason.


Use scotch m3 blue

Well i use scotch m4 blue, so i win

I would highly suggest switching to a PEI build surface. No glue / no prep ever again, if you get the settings right prints pop right off with the correct amount of adhesion. Only suggestion is to do a couple test prints and start with the heat low then work your way up.


I've used this build surface on aluminium and borosilcate glass. All I do is wipe it off with rubbing alcohol and go again no mess.

Dude It's worse for me, i print PLA on heated glass with a thin coat of PVA solution and I broke some of my beds getting pieces out as the pla with PVA would just have a stronger bond with the glass platform (even cooled) than the glass had a bond with itself so pieces of glass would chip off and some glass beds completely broke
The bed was too high

I print on a heated bed with blue tape. When the bed cools, the prints come off pretty easily. One note, with a heated bed and blue tape, DO NOT USE ALCOHOL or it will be very difficult to remove. The heated bed makes the tape tacky enough that you don't need the alcohol. I print on a 70c bed.

Try using one of these instead off a spatula: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34481

EZ-Snap Razor Blade Handle
by AdanA

That EZ Snap is great, but many people need a 102.5% sizing to get the blade to fit. I used to use the EZ Snap to make a gap to get larger scraper in. Now I use PrintBite (like PEI but different) and just lift off the parts when the bed is cool.

Feb 17, 2017 - Modified Feb 17, 2017

First off I like the overall design and thank you for the contribution. I have tried to print the vice handle several times however about 30 percent through the print it seems to have issues. Not sure what is causing the issue but it always stops around the same area. The extruder seems to back off or something else goes wrong. I even opened the Fusion 360 file and tried making a new STL file but ended up with the same results. I am using Simplify 3D and a QIDI X-one and nothing seems to help. The other gears and files print fine so I am stumped on why this one part seems to fail. Any help from you all would be appreciated. I have tried with and without supports....


Feb 19, 2017 - Modified Feb 19, 2017
TheGoofy - in reply to Athruz

No clue, what's going wrong here. Does the print really stop, or does it continue doing a mess? If the toolpath in Simplify3d doesn't look suspicious, you maybe try another slicer (e.g. Cura). Or try a different first layer height, e.g. 101%. Simplify3d has sometimes an issue, if the mesh-nodes are exactly at the same height as the layers. Or your SD-card has a problem? Could be anything ...

no, just no. It is proven that ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) is better

dang! looks good :)

Comments deleted.

Thanks for sharing and the design info too. Always appreciate that!! Thank you

Thanks for sharing!!

Hi friend, you project is amazing!

I dont have many expertise in 3d design but i would like to ask an thing to you.

You don´t have the interesting to create a very similar mechanism to laser engraver machines.
Today the big problem with this machines is the adjust of focus, because is very small and imprecise. If we have a method to adjust entire laser module head will help me and another thousand of peoples.

Look how this work today:

A simple regular surface to necklace the laser module is enough, i will try to modify your project, but as did say, i'm a newbie :-)
(sorry my poor english)


Excellent video. One little idea: if you change the orientation of the dovetail joint then the plate will pull the jaw parts together instead of pushing them apart.

That's true, but then the two base parts couldn't be printed without support material.

very nice! this is my next project

Although the machine is awesome, I'm more impressed with the printing quality you achieved and how smoothly every piece connects with each other

Love it! How good of printer do you have to have to print screws like that? Just picked up my first printer today have yet to print! A used Lulzbot AO-101.

Brilliant design! Check out my vise too http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1322841

Vise (Fully 3d printed)
by jdog13

thanks for sharing. you are one of thingiveses greatest. thanks!

What video did you use for reference when making gears in Fusion 360?

Brilliant. Thank you.

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017

Would it make the screws stronger if the vice_sliding_jaws were printed horizontally on the bed rather than vertical, my first vice, the screws just split and separated at the layers...

I do know that when I print threaded rods horizontally flat on the bed rather than vertically they feel a WHOLE lot stronger...but require tons of support.
Would a remix with a threaded hole on the slider (where the rod can be glued in) and printed horizontally be better? such as this remix for a different PCB vice?

Screw and jaw for Fully printable PCB vise by sneakypoo

It's an excellent idea to print the bolts horizontally with some flat area for avoiding support material. Small overhanging thread tips (teeth) are still a problem for 3d-printing even if it's only 30°. But if the bolts are split in two halves, there are no overhangs at all! The standard M12 threads have a 1.75mm pitch - that's at the limit for a 0.4mm nozzle. I recommend to design some screw with 2mm pitch (e.g. M16).

I can 100% verify that printing the screws flat on the bed make them considerably stronger...I printed the printed pcb vice with the remix of the flat threaded rod from above...very very strong very little chance of snapping

Definitely need a remix of the threaded rods please

Feb 15, 2017 - Modified Feb 15, 2017
WarHawk8080 - in reply to TheGoofy

Here is what I attempted on tinkercad...you have the originals...could you make a Ver 2 or a remix and do the holes in the slide jaws and the screws the way mentioned above good sir? (I'll be the first to print one!...already burned 23~meters of filament on a failed attempt already :( )
https://tinkercad.com/things/4TL4ud8Z4kV <- just a proof in concept...not good enough for actual production
Here is my failure on trying to get the screws separated from the sliding jaws...as you can see...utter failure

Thanks to your hints. I've implemented this remix: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123529

Horizontally printed rods for ANOTHER Machine Vise

Nice design and great instructions. The failure mode analysis was very insightful, thanks! Clearances look to be around .2mm. Your print accuracy must be very good. Love the clips for holding the two halves together.

I have trouble printing 60° threads. I'm playing around with buttress threads to see if that's easier.

What printer do you use?

I've created this remix, which maybe is easier to print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123529

Horizontally printed rods for ANOTHER Machine Vise

Excellent! I'll print it and let you know. Thank you.

I'm printing with UM2 and R2x. For some strange reasons threads are better on the UM2 even with the same type of material. Are you printing with ABS? For the threads I recommend either PETG or PLA - with ABS this horribly fails.

The small pins are too large and doesn't fit the vise. I had to change them to make them fit.
I feel that everything is too tight, I had to sand down many of the parts so they'll fit.
Overall, great design.

I've assembled a lot of multi-part objects with tight clearances, but this one was very tight. I had to scale the clips to 98% in all bit length, had to do a fair bit of filing of the slider block, and both file the handle and drive with a drill to wear it down a bit. It's all working well now but could do with a fraction of a mm more clearance in a few places. The clips for instance don't need to be a tight fit in the hole to do the job.

Different printers are differently accurate. Especially the rippled vertical surfaces (due to layers) can be very different. There are various options to tune this and potentially avoid sanding.

1) smaller layer height
2) reduce material flow resp slightly underextrude
3) in "Simplify3D" under "process settings / other" use a negative "horizontal size compensation"
4) in your slicer software set the nozzle diameter a bit larger than the real diameter (similar effect as 3)
5) buy a new printer (not really an option) ;-)

I recommend to test-print a cylinder with well known dimensions, while tuning these print settings, and check the printed size with the callipers.

Do you think its scaleable? I only can print 120mm cubed.

This is such a great design, I also really enjoyed the YT video where you explain how it was made.
Definitely printing this as soon as my printers have some free time.

The swappable jaws is a really useful feature as well.

What is the thread detail? M12 x 1.75? I want to run a die over the threads to dress them up. Thanks.

Yes, M12 x 1.75 is correct.

Delete my previous comment. I see how it works now.

I can't delete it, but only "flag". Then the Thingiverse Admin will have a look at it ... I guess you should be able to edit and delete your own comments.

Both of the threaded rods are right hand threads. Also, the main gears. When the center gear is turned, the main gears go in opposite directions and the vice jams. Am I doing something wrong here? It seems like one of the rods should have left hand threads along with it's gear.

Err, the two outer gears go in opposite directions to the knob, so in the same direction as each other.

I have the same problem. Is anyone else actually trying to turn this thing, or am I just completely off?

Feb 19, 2017 - Modified Feb 19, 2017
TheGoofy - in reply to Canteen

All orientations of threads and gears are correct. There must be another reason if it jams. Did you test that everything slides smoothly? Do the threaded rods slide properly through the holes of the base?

Has anyone modded this to add table mounting points?

Creativity comes into play here. Why not instead of relying on addition use subtraction? Drilling holes would be an obvious answer. Drill holes and add a countersink to the tops if it causes an issue with the performance of it. Rather simple answer, sorry if it doesnt answer your question

I've found drilling like this to be problematic. If the design doesn't incorporate hardpoints to be drilled then you wind up drilling through the relatively thin walls and infill. The result is the printed object loses structural integrity and the mounting holes tend to quickly wear out

Jan 27, 2017 - Modified Jan 27, 2017

Excellent design, bravo!

Three suggestions:

  1. make the soft jaws identical, only have them use a central lock of some sort (pin, snap, whatever). You already have good central access on the stationary and movable jaw so the lock hole could be through for easy change, or 3d printed fastener/clip.
  2. Please, a "blank" jaw file in step or X_T parasolid format so ppl can model their own clamp profiles.
  3. Screw shafts with 45 degree buttress threads with the 7 degree face up (towards the gears).

Wow, very nice design and a very good video on design issues and principles. I'd love to see more of these!! Thanks for sharing!

Great design and I love the video.

What infill percentage would you recommend?


What a great design. I knew the theory but seeing your tests was really interesting. Thank you for sharing

Very nice design and thorough explanations. Well done!

Any chance of also uploading a Fusion360 archive of the design? Especially of the jaw protectors so they can be easily modified? Fully understand if you prefer not to, though. Just thought I'd ask.

OK, I've added a link: http://a360.co/2juhSUG

Thank you, sir! Greatly appreciated.

Another Masterpiece from TheGoofy. Thank you for sharing.

Great Job ! Thank you.

Great Job ! Thank you.

Looks like a great tool for holding boards in place for soldering!

Another great design with a clear and interesting explanation! Thank you TheGoofy for sharing your work and knowledge with the community.

What are the recommended resolutions for the various parts?
Can they all be printed at .2mm, or should the threaded bolts be printed at .1mm?

I've printed it with 0.15mm layer height (sorry, I initially forgot to add this info to the description)

Jan 26, 2017 - Modified Jan 26, 2017
xnaron - in reply to TheGoofy

What is the diameter of your hotend nozzle hole?

Mar 8, 2017 - Modified Mar 8, 2017
Logan___Stuart - in reply to xnaron

NO USE 4 ft

0.4 mm

I've had same idea for my next bench vise, but made of steel ;) thanks for sharing.

I also had an idea how about you don't comment!