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Spirit00

Bearing blocks incl. 8mm bearing (LM8UU) (Anet A8/A6, Wanhao duplicator i3 etc)

by Spirit00 Jan 31, 2017
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So I assume if you use the customizer to widen the inner diameter by .2 to .5 mm, everyone's tightness problems would be solved? spiral vase bushings usually need to be modified from 8mm inner diameter to 8.2-8.3 or around there so counteract shrinkage. Also, has anyone tested the against the spiral vase style bushings?

Really perfect design, tried few other options before and it was always issues with sizing, here all sizes absolutely perfect, thanks a lot!
This must be upgrade #1, actually it is bug fix, in my A6 after few weeks on original bearings Y rods was all in huge scratches have to replace rods.

I am using them for +6 months. No problems

Love them! I printed them for my A8. Few minutes of light filing with a round file and they glide beautifully. Sound is drastically reduced.

My A8 does not use the one low side blocks. It is an older one with the 1st gen board.

What is better for this print, pla or abs?

Need some help and advice! I made a few of these - I have a spare 8mm rod and and they fitted a bit tight so I opened thechuck on my electric drill... and wore them in! Just now they look OK.. no rough patches... just as they were when printed... so have 7 all loose and slide easily and my thoughts were..maybe too loose.
I stripped out the metal bearing on the A8 hotbed and X axis carrier... replaced with my bright yellow PLA printed bearings.... all in place... I power on and hit Home All... they jammed! The belts was dragged through then stuck so I had to power off quick! I reversed the process.. put some on my spare rod... all move easily! I put two on... hold tight and liek a violin player _ I worked the bow fast.... no issues, back in the electric drill.... loose no issues... So anybody know WHY this happens...it is due to using PLA?

Were your rods bent?

I doubt few if any 8mm plain rods from Anet - are truly straight, although these were not too bad and I also use a stiff rubber head hammer which does not dent or mark - to straighten a little more. I check by putting the rods in an electric drill and and thing out of true - shows clearly at the far end! I am guessing its a friction thing, but a thin smear of sewing machine oil did not help. I just give up messing about and bought yet another batch of (LMUU??) inserts.

My rods for my bed are 7.9mm thick and this i had to use a hammer to get in and still way to tight. can you make it fit my rod?

use a drill or shave some material off with the edge of the rod

Printed it with PLA with the filament that came with my Anet A8. They perfectly fit the rods after removing a little bit of material with an 8mm drill. The holes for the M4 screws work nice, the screws thread beautifully into them. I used Cura with an infill of 30%.
Unfortunately my rods are bent so I can't really use them for the printer (too much friction), but if anyone need a simple linear bearing, this is a great idea.

Could I use these on the Y axis bed gantry as well?

A drill bit by hand worked for me but yet to be tested

I'm thinking of using these just to reduce noise. If printed in PLA will the need lubricant of any
kind?

I'm using teflon grease and they are working really good this way.

I've replaced my hotbed Bearings and blocks so far and I'm running in a ungreased state.
I had problems with the screws from the original, threads not right, but I found replacements.
Unfortunatly don't have enough replacement screws for the x-axis but I'll go buy some.
I think the results are great, theres less noise coming from the y axis for sure and prints are still great.
Really nice to find an upgrade that prints properly and improves the A8. Cheers!

The threads are for M4 screws, maybe there was a change in the newer pakages. I've replaced most of the screws anyway, because most of my delivered screws had such a poor quality and damaged threads aswell. Stll is it nice to hear the things could help you.

I purchased some more M4 screws and they fitted perfectly, Both x and y axis now running on your design.
Theres some real benefits to these things other than noise reduction, theres quite a weight reduction too which means less stress on the stepper motors and possibly a longer lasting mainboard.
I'll post an I made one with pictures soon.

What size screws would these need for the X-belt carriage?

Like the original - M4

Ok, thanks! So these holes are small enough for the M4 to cut threads in?

Threads are alredy in there, just screw your M4 in there and you're done

Comments deleted.

Anyone can report on long term test on this?

I tried these in PLA for Y axis bed bearings, great idea for losing mass, but had some terrible juddering. I had shaved them down so that they slid very freely but with the weight of the bed on them the static friction was enough to cause the noisy juddering on stepper movement. Might be better in ABS possibly. I tried a couple of different lubes too silicone, gear grease etc.

Think I might try a version of housing only and reuse the linear bearing inserts from original blocks.

I'm still using them on my X-axis. On my Y-axis I only exchanged a diagonal pair, the other ones remained as delivered state.

is this ABS only? can i use PLA?

I used PLA, PLA works great. Haven't tested it with ABS

Thanks for this, great video showing the difference! What is the best layer height to print this at? It's not specified.

where can i find that?

I printed it at 0,2mm. I think there is no need for printing them in lower layer height.

there are two kind of Bearing blocks that you uploaded ,
what is the different between them ?

The blocks with the low flange on one side is for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 (and other like the Anet A8) X-axis. they are made to prevent the belt rubbing on the block, like it does with the stock aluminum blocks.

Will these fit a Wanhao i3 V2?

just check the dimensions, if they are the same than this things will fit your printer

nice idea. i'm waiting on some igus bearings right now. but, there is a problem. when i printed these and did a test fit on my new x carriage, the top 2 blocks wouldn't fit. it seems you designed these blocks with length of 34mm where an actual block is 30mm. very disappointing i did manage to import the model into tinkercad and shaved 2mm off each end and i'm printing them now. evrything should fit this time.

either your printer isn't calibrated well - or you made some mistakes in configuring your slicer. The STLs are doing their job just like they are. Just look here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:301852 printed like shown in second picture.

Bearing blocks incl. 8mm bearing (LM8UU) (Anet A8/A6, Wanhao duplicator i3 etc)

well, all i know is when i measured them, they were 34mm long. after importing them into tinkercad and shaving them doen to 30mm, they were ok and measured at 30mm. my printer is calibrated. but that's ok, i decided to use the shells of the actual blocks to house my igus bearings.

This is really strange; I've checked the STL file just a minute ago, downloaded it from Thingiverse again, loaded it into my slicer and it shows me 30mm on Z (thing is standing on surface, so Z is the lenght). I have really no idea why your is printing with 34mm.

One file was maybe corrupt, Thingiverse wasn't displaying it correctly - so I decided to reupload it.