These diffusers turn the light from the diffused LEDs into an even 345degree column of light. This is done by printing a column of fanned out light pipes that radiate from the LED.
Continue reading below the videos!
Videos: They are all very short.
Warpcore running at warp factor 2
Warpcore Standard from Novel Mutations on Vimeo.
Warpcore running in rainbow mode at warp factor 2
Warpcore Rainbow from Novel Mutations on Vimeo.
Warpcore mid breach. It starts at warp 1 and ramps up to warp 9 while the reaction chamber followed by the rest turn from blue to red before it slows down to warp 0 and repeats. Unfortunately I missed the beginning so the video is really short and only shows from about warp 7 onwards.
Warpcore Breach from Novel Mutations on Vimeo.
There are two other modes where it fades the the entire thing through the entire color spectrum that I did not make videos of.
I want to add the ability to make it a vu meter as well.
This is designed to work with my High Resolution Warpcore Remix of ThePlanetMikes Warpcore. It will NOT fit the original.
This design uses WS2801 NON-INSULATED Diffused Pixels that have been separated, wrapped in Kapton tape, bent and push fit into the diffuser before being reconnected with bare copper connections. This is the type of LED I used because its what I had already https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB19FOiNXXXXXcvaXXXq6xXFXXX8/High-quality-50x-12mm-DC5V-font-b-WS2801-b-font-Pixel-Node-Module-font-b-String.jpg it should also work with this type of WS2812 on round breakout boards http://tinkersphere.com/1450-thickbox_default/addressable-rgb-led-sequin-5v-ws2812-neopixel-compatible.jpg
The slot that the LEDs sit in is to be placed right behind the rear vertical tension member making it appear as if the light comes out 360degrees around the model.
These use a LOT of plastic. My entire print of 7 Constrictor diffusers and 1 Reactor diffuser used about 1/2kg of Natural PLA. Although this is a lot of plastic the effect it gives is an almost perfect column of light including the back side.
To print these you want to use a large layer height (0.3 or more) and a width of 0.5mm. You will only print a single perimeter, no infill and no top or bottom layers. If you have an option for spiral mode printing this would be the time to use it. You can also turn off retraction if your machine has a fast layer change to make it a single continuous perimeter without stopping. I used CA glue to connect the segments together. To do this is squirted a puddle of CA glue onto a piece of glass and then rubbed the ends in it before clamping the sections together. Once glued they were very strong and never came apart (make sure the ends are smooth).
NOTE: the Constrictor diffusers have a blank spot where there is no LED. This is the end that connects to the reaction chamber diffuser and in each additional section it will be behind the phase adjustment coils.
It uses the www.fastled.io library and runs on an Arduino Pro Mini clone and I communicate with it via an HC-06 bluetooth adapter. The Arduino and Bluetooth adapter are in the top injector cap and I have the power coming in the bottom injector cap.
I have included the Arduino sketch. Once running if you send it a ? over serial at the set baud rate it will reply with instructions on how to change the speed, color, saturation, brightness and pattern via serial. The sketch has define settings for how many LEDs and it should work with less sections and less LEDs but it has not been tested with less.
UPDATE: May 17, 2018
Android program to control warpcore submitted by user Catmandu13 and is available on the google play store for free at https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=appinventor.ai_cterry42.WarpController2
UPDATE: Mar 27, 2018
Update the Arduino sketch with fixes for memory issues on platforms other than Pro Mini. Try Warpcore_8.ino if you have had issues with your program running correctly. Fixes provided by users in the comments section.
UPDATE: Feb 7, 2017
I updated the arduino sketch with missing data in serial help. I did not have instructions for the pattern settings in the serial help display.
The LED's have a direction. That is one side is IN and one OUT. The IN side I have at the top and OUT at the bottom. I have the power coming in the bottom (doesn't matter where its connected, it could be the middle or either end etc) and it's connected to the + and - terminals of the LED's.
I then connected the Arduino + and - to the + and - terminals at the top of the LED's. This now powers the Arduino. The last wires on the first (top) LED now connect to the Arduino (Data pin to pin 3 and clock pin to pin 9).
NOTE: The clock pin will not be used if using WS2812's and you will also need to comment out the clock pin in the sketch and change the line where is says " FastLED.addLeds<WS2801,DATA_PIN, CLOCK_PIN, RGB>(LEDarray,NUM_LEDS); " to say " FastLED.addLeds<WS2812,DATA_PIN, RGB>(LEDarray,NUM_LEDS); "
Once it's programmed and up and running you will be able to connect the bluetooth adapter to the Arduino. + to +, - to -, tx to rx, and rx to tx. You can not have the bluetooth connected to the Arduino while you program the Arduino because it uses the same serial port on the Arduino. There is a way to program over bluetooth but I haven't ever done it.
NOTE 2: Not all HC-05 and HC-06 modules can handle 5v signals from the Arduino and may require a couple of resistors to make a voltage divider for the Bluetooth rx line. See the tutorials below for more info and how to make one if needed. My unit had them built in so I was lucky.
Here are a few good references and tutorials about bluetooth modules with Arduino: