E3D V6 Hotend Mount for Rostock Max V3 & Orion Deltas

by Resinseer, published

E3D V6 Hotend Mount for Rostock Max V3 & Orion Deltas by Resinseer Feb 10, 2017
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These parts enable you to mount an E3D V6 hotend to your SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3 or Orion delta. It is designed to incorporate parts from the HE280 hotend, particularly the PCB that houses the accelerometer which now comes as standard in both printers. Apart from a few extra fasteners, this is all you need to mount a V6 on your SeeMeCNC printer that looks good and involves minimal fuss. Please see the .txt notes file for details and tips on assembly. IMPORTANT: the HE280 has a 0.5mm nozzle, the V6 comes with a 0.4mm nozzle - you must change this setting in your slicer once the V6 is installed or your prints might fail.

FOR V2 OWNERS: This is compatible with the Rostock Max V2 - however you will need to buy the V3 hotend whip and accelerometer board from SeeMeCNC.

Big thanks to those of you who have found this Thing useful and have sent tips to me, they are very much appreciated.

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this worked great, thanks, does anyone have the stl for the electronics cover?

Brought the Trick Laser's aluminum ball joint platform to use with my E3D. For the life of me, can't get it assembled right :D Printed this and assembled in minutes. Thanks for this!

Fantastic, I'm really glad it worked for you!!

can you please make a list of the fasteners needed?

You can re-use the fasteners from your old hotend and effector.

i used all of them but on the mount the holes are slightly to big
also on the clamp it looks like it uses nuts

Read the .txt file in the Thing Files section, it should tell you everything :).

oh sorry i missed that

Resineer YOU ROCK!! This is SPOT ON! I am using with the E3D Volcano, the only difference in the V6 is the heat chamber itself. The Volcano heat chamber is a little bigger and is not much more money. To make things easier I screwed the board to the holding plate prior to soldering, one less thing to worry about wires getting in the way. For me this up grade is a no brainer I can print one .72 width .30 height with a .6 Nozzle at INSANE speeds 80 mm/s. I must admit that is not for a detailed part but at 70mm/s I still printed the mount and it came out very nice. Thanks again for your contribution to the community!!!

I'm glad you're finding it useful :). I will be developing a new version soon that uses improved box fans and an LED light ring. I want to run a 0.8mm too at some point, so I'm glad this works with the Volcano.

Not sure I like the light ring idea. If I don't need it on and on the machine for the machine to work than I don't need it attached to the machine. I have LED Spot lights 120V (cheap ones from Harbor Freight) that I control from a smart switch. I have had a couple of prints break loose from the bed WHEN I WASN'T IN THE OFFICE and I can shut power off from the z-wave plug. Most of my prints end up completing when I am not in the office, so I like to be able to shut things down where ever I may be. I have the z-wave plugged into my battery back up along with the WIFI camera and yes my Router is plugged into another battery backup. If I know for sure how long a print will be I set my smart hub to turn that plug off at a certain time, then sleep with no worries!
I am sure your new design will be fantastic!

Don't worry the light ring effector will be optional. Mostly I just want to integrate the more efficient box fans, the stock fans are kinda crappy even with the shrouds.

You might want to check this out, Mike is quite a smart dude. He wrote the Assembly guide to the Rostock Max V3.
This article is about part cooling.
Hope this help.

Actually, he didn't. I wrote the first version and JJ wrote the revised version.

I talk to Mike regularly and he's had a lot of input on my designs :), this was one avenue I was exploring so I should probably look into it again! It's definitely a very efficient design.

Do you know if this will this work on my Rostock V2? I don't know how different it is from the V3...

It will work on the V2, but you will need to buy the V3 hotend whip and accelerometer probe from SeeMeCNC.

Well, I finally got around to installing my accelerometer, whip, v6, and your mount. Only problem is, my effector warped on my first test! I printed it on Bridge at 80% infill 3 layers top bottom and sides. HE only got to 240 deg, fan was working.

Idk, maybe add another spacer between the mount and accelerometer? I notice your mount lowers the HE more than my original. Definitely print it at 100% infill, the rest of the design can have less. Also disappointed by how loose the mount gripped the HE and the effector fit in the ball joints. Not extremely loose, but not as snug as the orig. The clamp and ball joint screws do counter this issue.

Anyone else coming from not starting with an HE280 will also need to print an accelerometer cover. For hardware I used 3 #4 x1/4 (3/8 is suggested by SeeMeCNC) for accelerometer, 3 3Mx20mm for top, 3 #6x1/2 for bottom, 2 3Mx16mm for the clamp.

Thank you Resinseer!

I'm sorry that you've had trouble with it, I've had no other reports like this and mine works great. The HE mount is designed so that the nozzle is in the exact same Z position relative to the arms as it is with the HE280. Without looking at your parts it's hard to diagnose. Mine is PLA with 1.2mm walls with 25% ish infil. Try again with different settings and see if you can improve it, I'm sure it's possible as quite a few people are operating this without any issues.

EDIT: Regarding the snugness of fit issues. Did you print the mount on an HE280? Have you checked the nozzle size setting is correct inyour slicer? If you haven't, I can see why you would be having fit and strength issues - the V6 comes with a 0.4mm nozzle whereas the 280 is 0.5mm, so you need to make sure this setting is correct in your slicer or your print tolerances and dimensions will be incorrect.

Very strange...I wonder if it might have something to do with my bed, I've got the heat up to 90 deg. I'm really surprised you printed it on PLA, it's such a fragile material.

When I got my v2 a year ago, the name of the HE was never mentioned, but I know I don't have their latest HE. All of my settings were correct, I had printed other parts perfectly just before printing the effector.

I just printed DJkirkendall's effector http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2122793 at 100% infill on T. Bridge, I'm going to test it out soon.

Complete Rostock Max V3 E3D Hotend Assembly

The PLA one was a prototype, I was going to print it in a much stronger material but it worked well enough that I haven't bothered yet. I'm going to build that effector down the line too, that was an awesome remix of this mount. I'll be using atomic carbon PETG, just need to order some scroll fans. I'm sure you're figure it out, but thanks so much for feeding back - this may get quite widely used so it's goof to know about potential bugs.

would changing to an e3d v6 make the auto calibration not work?

Auto calibration still works fine, as that is done by the accelarometer circuit board which fits onto this mount. Also, the nozzle Z position on this mount is exactly the same as it is on the HE280. So just fit it, re-calibrate and you're good to go.

just wondering which v6 is this for?

It should fit all of them as far as I know.

Hi Resineer,

I was wondering if you have a video or blog that details the steps to doing the conversion? I purchased a factory built rostock, so I haven't done a build of the he280 hotend.

I was thinking of printing the parts that I need to use so I don't have to completely disassemble the HE280 and could maybe just pop the arms off my effector plate and swap hotends? I guess I'm mainly nervous about wrecking my only printer.


I didn't think to do a guide, I probably should! However, if you post this question on the SeeMeCNC Owners Group on FB, quite a few people there have done it and have pics - they could walk you through it :).

What is the advantage of this hot end vs. the HE280? I like it out so far.


The nozzle selection from SeeMeCNC is limited, and the nozzles are more expensive than the E3D. I primarily use 0.35mm, which SMCNC doesn't offer with the V3 hotend.

I have hundreds of models sliced and ready to print in GCODE, and I didn't want to reslice my entire inventory because I also wanted auto-levelling.

Performance-wise, I found the cooling to be insufficient with the stock hotend even with custom shrouds. I remixed this one with my final overall layout and you'll see the difference in the fan flow and direction.

There's also the issue of spares inventory. I have 9 x Rostock machines; I'd rather keep the E3D compatibility for all of my spare parts for the deltas.

Thanks for your reply! Wow 9?! You must be doing this professionally. I will consider a different fan configurations. I'll check yours out. What is the design difference with the E3D? The HE280 Heating block looks very similar.

Externally they look similar, but the machine finishing on the E3D is of a much higher standard which aides plastic flow, and also the heatbreak design is different which again aides flow and means you can print at lower temps reliably than with the HE280. It's just more trouble free in general really.

The HE280 is quite good, but with the E3D V6 you can print at faster speeds (around double, I have found) without risking any filament starvation problems like missing layers etc. It is also generally more reliable and consistent, according to most people who have used both extensively.

Dang, I just sank $40 into the 713maker version.

I have 4 printers to convert, so THANK YOU for doing the heavy lifting! I was about to do the same this weekend.

No problem :), the community has helped me so much and it's nice to be able to give something back.