PiCade-HAT Based 10" HD Mini Bartop (Re-design)

by Zurkeyon Feb 27, 2017
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Nice! I'm going to give this a shot. Wondering if anyone has a 2d version of the control area? I'd like to cut an acrylic piece to fit there

have you thought about make a design for a 7 inch screen?

Nope. Because the original creator already did that.... ;-D

wow Im blind



so what buttons do you use here, 30 mm or 33 mm?
can you eventually make a redesign for 6x 33mm buttons or is it too big then? like these here: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B075JBQ5F3/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_enFrBbG31QJXT

The Exact button dimensions are:


So, it looks like a 33, with a 28 dia.

Hope this helps!



thanks for the very fast reply, if that's so i could use yours to make my 2nd build, made the first build with another print and they didn't fit.

Thanks for that, also, you should add this in the description, it's a very helpfull information in my opinion

Zurkeyon by any chance could you re-link all the parts that are needed? When I click on the links to the parts on Amazon they all lead just to Amazon's main page.

I generalized what I could to make it easier.

The 10" HDMI Screen is hard to source now it appears.

But the Screen frame is pretty easy to modify with Sketchup.

A Quick youtube search on Sketchup and using the "Push Pull" function, should get you to the point of being able to resize the frame to fit most any 10" screen.

Even ones already in a case. As long as they have HDMI. Just un-case them and fit the boards in with hot glue or parts revisions. Leaving it with enough cable for the screen to be removed for service to the top portion of the unit.

Just make sure you do not exceed 9.25" on the Width of the screen itself.

The Frame can be modified to fit anything up to that width.

The width of the screen location on the unit is just about 9 5/8th inches. A Tad under. (1/16th maybe)

So you COULD just make a cover that holds the screen in place and get one up to that wide... But a removable screen is basically required for service to the internals. I would not recommend fashioning anything that is glued permanently into place.

Pushing magnet locations into the parts where the screen sits using sketchup would be pretty easy also.

Just figure out the magnet you want to use, measure it, and make that size/shape impression into the part, then use STL export addons in sketchup to re-export the new version of the part.

A few youtube vids and you'll be there. Its super easy once you see how it works.

If you need help, just shout, I'm happy to assist if i can.

The WS2812 LEDs, can be from basically anything.

You can also daisy chain them together and use multiple strands of smaller board/chip style LEDs to get the marquis done.

It does not have to be the flexible ones.

They are all pinned basically the same. That Arduino tutorial and code, should work for all.

Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

I will try to update all the links to the general searches that I use to get to the parts.

Hopefully, the script amazon and others use does not change often, and the general links will hold for longer.

Again thanks!


P.S. Let me know if any of these links are to bad vendors/sources, I will change or remove. I added an edit warning users to be careful who they buy from and to do their homework on the vendor and their reviews. As I have not purchased from these new links and do not have a verifiable experience to share with everyone. If you do buy, please share who you bought from and if they gave you good product. So others can benefit from that information and get a unit built as well. Please -n- Ty :-)

Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it! Have you tried printing this arcade with wood filament? Am thinking it would look good stained in summer oak....

I have not, and I don't think it has been attempted.
However, It is not a terribly complex set of parts, and there are not too many difficult to print areas.
Geometrically speaking its relatively straight forward.
So it should print well in most any material.
Under the correct conditions of course. (Ex, a heated cabinet for ABS, Prepared surface and perfect first layer on PLA, Etc..)

I think it would look amazing in wood!

Hopefully, the above holds true for you and you have great success.

Best of luck on the build!



I'm starting this build, but am having some trouble finding a spot to source the display. Anyone have any recommendations on where to find a suitable alternate? Thanks!

zurkeyon, Can you make the files fit a 15" LCD Screen I get these in at work and would love to take one apart and use it . I would send you some payment on Paypal to do this

It is possible. But it would likely double or triple the number of required parts needing to be printed, and take the print time for the average machine to well over a month. Add in the fact that you would be at about 4-5 ROLLS of material to print such a thing... It would be cheaper to just buy a laser cut acrylic or wood kit from the internet at that point.

Can it be done. Yes.
Is it worth doing at that size with current printers, speeds, warping and delamination issues, and the overall time it would take?
No. Not really.

I apologize, but not only do I not have the needed time to redraw the entire unit, but I cannot see many people printing it out on Prusa type printers to invest that much time into it.

Other Considerations:
Discussed at the above link.

If it were me trying to build one that size, I would just order a kit from Etsy that is 15" - 17" and kit it out yourself using the site in the first link above. (As far as the joystick and control parts that is)

This will be the Fastest, Cheapest, and BEST way to get a mini arcade of that size.

Hope this helps you!


Hi Zurkeyon,

How many leds from the strip bar led did you use on the Video games banner?

Thank you.

14 I do believe. I will double check this when possible and post a for sure number.


Hey Zurkeyon, I really love the work you've done here! So much so that I am printing/building one myself, but am making a couple minor changes to the guts of this little beast. But, alas, I am having a similar problem printing the Back_Right_Upright .STL file. It's all contorted and has some crazy triangles going into the print. I didn't notice it in the preview either but when I went to print it I got a mess on my hands. This is the second to last piece I have to print to start building this little guy, the last one being that huge print TOP_Right (It was about a 25 hour print for the left side!) I am using Simplify 3D but will try to run it through Cura and see what happens, right after I pick up another spool of filament that is. ;) I was just wondering if anyone else had that issue as well and if you could maybe look into it? Any help from anybody would be very much appreciated, thank you!

Sorry, I have been super busy. My Wife was diagnosed with Breast cancer and just had a double mastectomy. We just got her home.

Safe and sound.


There should be a file in the list called "back left upright - corrected"

Or something similar.

This is the file that I went back through and tried to correct the geometry on.

It should allow you to get it printed out complete.

Please let me know if not and I will get in there and take a look when possible.


Seems the seller I got my screen off completely lied or didn't realise they were actually selling a 10.8" screen not a 10.1" screen. I don't know if I'll be able to make this screen fit! :(

Sorry, been meaning to respond for several days. Working a lot at the moment.

I used Sketchup Free to make the Changes and Import/Export the parts.

Sketchup is EASY to learn. Google Made TONS of tutorials.

I learned it in a few hours.

With it, all the parts here should be able to be separated out in the skp drawing (Included), and then you just modify it as needed.

Exporting it as a new STL. There are STL import and export tools in the sketchup plugin center inside the software. The Extensions Warehouse. Just Search STL and you will find them right away.

I use Groups and components, so to edit, you will need to right click a part and "Open Group"

The Screen Frame should be a good one to start on as well. Its relatively simple.

Hopefully, something can be changed to allow it to fit.

I am sorry you ended with with a part that didn't fit.

If this was from one of my links, I sincerely apologize.

Sometimes these vendors change parts on us and we are not notified until someone gets one thats wrong.

Please let me know, and I will remove the link, or find a new supplier with the correct size.

Thank you,


Hey, Sorry I should have put an update here but I managed to re-draw a new screen holder (Still waiting on some screws to hold it in place) but it looks like it's going to work for what I need.

I got the screen off a seller on eBay claiming that it was 10.1 screen but the dimensions of the screen must have been a lot different than the frames supplied.
If my screen holder works I'll post to Thingiverse in case someone else needs it one day! :)

I've got the screen frame file open in SketchUp but I'm wondering how I can edit it to make it fit a 5mm screen? I may also have to cut out a bit at the bottom for the ribbon cable.

This is the screen i've got https://ibb.co/bAWGUv


I did not see this comment. Been crazy busy with work lately.

Unfortunately, I am unable to reproduce these issues in Cura 15.04.6, 15.04.5, and 2.3.1
Also I am unable to see them in Slic3r or Craftware either.
Sketchup shows no geometry errors either.

I am unfamiliar with other software, and I am not sure how to assist further.

Others have recently printed out the project and had no issues.

The files posted are the same today, as they were for them.

All I can suggest is to try another slicer, as I have seen STLs have issues on one, and be perfectly fine in another.

Hopefully that will get you going at least enough to finish the print.

If not, let me know and maybe I can hit the Prusa group for some assistance.



Hey it's no problem at all, life happens :)

I've tried Cura and Simplify and both show the defect in the actual slicer, Even opening it up in Preview (Image viewer on a Mac that can also open STL files) it shows the hole not being cut properly. Tried re-downloading the files too.

Went back into Sketchup and found the issue. I was using an earlier version of the file that didn't have the problem. I have corrected the current Sketchup file and re-uploaded both it and a freshly exported version of the Back left Upright.

Thank you for pointing this out.

The pics helped me locate it. No idea what happened there.


Try now, should be good to go!


Thanks for the quick fix buddy! I tried to fix it in a different program but it just completely messed it up and I have no idea how to use SketchUp! haha

I'll download it again and give it a go tomorrow :)

Posted this in a sub-comment a couple of weeks back so you might not have seen it.
I have noticed a problem when slicing the Back Left Upright and didn't notice it until I printed it but it is completely messed up.

Any chance you could have a look into it? :)

Images below

Is anyone else having a problem printing/slicing these STL files in Slic3r or Cura?

Also keep in mind that you have the Sketchup files too. You can Re-Export new STLs from those in minutes.

I used Cura 15.04.06 to slice these, without error or issue.

So if there is any errors, I apologize. As I did not encounter them during my build.

Sorry about that.


There were some errors in the STL files that I had to repair before slicing correctly. I can post a modified thing with the corrections later today

How come the Joystick holes don't line up to the one sold on Pimoroni? Other than that it seems like an amazing model.. All I need now is my screen :)

If its the Zippyy, it should line up to the lower set of holes. They use 45 degree angled slots for mounting holes, so it should eventually line up. You may have to move it around a bit to get them to line up, but they should be able to.

This of course, unless they changed to another stick, or are using a different model for stock reasons.

Both are possible.

If so, Send me a pic, and measurements to the centers of the holes, so I know their exact distance from each other, and I'll draw a part with a new set of matching holes for you.

No problem.

Let me know.


Thanks for the offer but I've just drilled two new holes for it to line up! Haha

It says Zippyy on the side it just didn't seem to line up either way I put it

I apologize for that. They must be using a different model number. it happens.

My Offer of course still stands. If you ever want a "Perfect" part, I'll be happy to modify the drawing and make another STL for you.



Hey Steve, I wanted to try the Retropie Dean's Attract mode, but dont own a facebook account (why I would ever need one right? Lol). Any other way to get a copy of that image? Perhaps a share on https://mega.nz/#F!Vh4zBJzY!L7b1xyP8FWMnO0bmlMWsCw

My email is tronicgr @ gmail . com


Unfortunately, I had to make a fake facebook acct to get in there to get the image.
I am out in the country on a 1 - 2 mbps wireless connection. So Uploading that much is not an option for me. It would take too long. (Weeks)
Easiest way is to make a fake facebook and dump it when done.
I apologize for the forced use of Fakebook... I'll try to find an Alternative.

Thanks for this great design!! I just made one and looks and feels great! I used cream color for more retro look as my controller buttons are all black: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:337486

PiCade-HAT Based 10" HD Mini Bartop (Re-design)

Very nice work! It Looks Great!

Could I talk you into posting the Diameter and thickness of those Magnets? (So others may obtain them) Please.

Also, The Parts for the Card Reader Extension, the USB control interface, and any info on it, I'm sure others will want to use some of your design elements. (Including Myself) Please.

Thank you for the pics and the praise.

I'm very happy to see someone make one of these.

I've come to find its basically smiles in a box. A Smile Making Machine!


P.S. Thanks again malopezn for the Original design

Ok, check now! Added more photos, videos and proper description with links ;)


PiCade-HAT Based 10" HD Mini Bartop (Re-design)

Love the Surface Mounted Tactile Keys on the Back.

Nice build all around!
Thank you for adding the Pics and Links!

I appreciate you taking the time. Damn I love the Maker community! :-D

Enjoy that build Man its very well done.


(Sound is rockin too!)

Thank you! The rework for 10 inch screen really helped me to build it better than i was planning a few months ago with the original design.

Btw, none of the case parts are glued! I can still unbolt everything if i need to ;)

I agree that this maker community is awesome! Speeds up the design time with examples to modify to your needs. Or share your own design with the world contributing as well. See my recent contribution here:

Adafruit Joy Bonnet Docking 3.5" HDMI screen

The magnets are from Home Depot : http://m.homedepot.com/p/MASTER-MAGNETICS-1-2-in-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Magnet-Discs-6-per-Pack-07046HD/202526367

The SD extension holder is from 3D printer parts (wanhao i3).

I soldered 4 wires directly on the raspberry pi for the internal USB port for the joystick, but I'll use a small hub soon.

I'll try to get this information on the make thing along more photos soon.


hi, congrats are a nice... i like make this proyect but i have same question... my printer are da vinci mini w 150x150x150 bed ¿you can mod for print this? thanks!!!!

The Bottom 6 Pieces "should" fit within your print area. The Top 2, however, are about 165 to 175-ish long.
It is possible to shorten them in Sketchup, however, it would very much change the look of the unit.
I would have to completely eliminate the overhang above the screen.
Even with that, I am not 100% sure I could fit it into a space under 155.
I would have to start from scratch on the top portion and redesign it altogether.
Which normally i would be willing to do, but I am so busy with work at the moment, that it wont be possible for several months.
My best suggestion is to find a local makerspace, or have the top 2 pieces printed for you on a larger unit.
The rest, you should be able to check and see if they will fit your printer, by sizing Cura to your print area, and checking the STL files one by one.
Cura will grey out portions of 3D objects that are not within the set print area.

This will tell you if the pieces will fit or not, before ever having to print them out.

Hope this helps you get one printed out. If you need wiring or other technical assistance, please let me know.

Thank you for the Praise :-)


Thank you very much for your quick response, do not worry, I'll try to debit another friend to make me the parts that can not be printed on my printer which are three parts.

does anyone have one that can be printed on a 150x150x150 printer?

Not that I am aware of. Its "Possible" it may fit, as the actual dimensions are about 145 x 145.

But the top 2 parts I do believe are larger say 165-ish long.

It can be redesigned, OR, you could print the 4 lower parts and make a CAP and just use it as gaming controller and video server.

So to speak.

Then just hook up to any monitor with an HDMI cable and play!

Nice project! I am definitely making this one :)
Im thinking of adding a power strip inside the cabinet though, with a hole on the backside (in the middle of the seam) for the power cable, hopefully that should be feasible.

The monitor you used is unfortunately not possible to be shipped to my country, could this be an alternative?

(Notice its 10.1 inches)

Looking forward to your possible upgrades, if you decide to make them! :)

Just wondering if this screen did fit? I'm looking for one for my PiCade at the moment!

The project has stranded a bit for me for a couple of reasons. I had to repair some parts of the print with a repair software since it looked somewhat broken in Slic3r. Because of this, I think the repairs made some parts smaller than they should have. This means that the two halves of the frame overlaps a bit when I fit it onto the picade.

I did have to extend the thickness of the frame a bit(extend only the one axis pertained to the thickness - with a couple of milimetres since the screen was squeezing too hard into the frame.

Thanks for the reply.. Looks like that's the screen i'll be getting then

A apologize for the issues with Slic3r. It appears several people are reporting broken geometry with Slic3r.

Another way to go about it is to use Cura 15.04.6 to slice this project.

It seems to ignore any geometry mistakes and still allows for a decent printed result.

Besides this, it would be a total re-draw :-(

I have noticed a problem when slicing the Back Left Upright and didn't notice it until I printed it but it is completely messed up.

Images below

That Screen is Approximately the same size as the one I used.

IF you have issues with Fitment, I will be happy to draw another Screen Frame, or Resize the one that is there.

I am Very Glad you have decided to construct this little box of Awesome!

It really is a fun little machine.

You may be a bit limited on space for the Power Strip, So make it a Compact one.

Should be able to make something fit though.

If you need any help or re-Draws, please don't hesitate to ask.