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TNS

ANET A8 | Customizable E3D v6 Carriage / Bowden Mount

by TNS Feb 12, 2017
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Hi is PLA fine for this print or do I need to print it with ABS instead?

Anyone else had issues with heat creep? I believe there isn't enough clearance between the rear of the heat sink and this carriage.

Any chance of getting a version with a radial fan mount on the right side as well for dual radial fans?
I am unsure how to use scad and do it my self.

can i get someone to print this for me? i will pay. had taken the mount off to do some work but never got around to finish it. now i lost some parts.

Comments deleted.

anyone could sharethe configuration.h settings ?
I can`t find the center bed position using this parameters:
**marlin 1.1.9

// The size of the print bed

define X_BED_SIZE 220

define Y_BED_SIZE 220

// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
//#define X_MIN_POS -33

define X_MIN_POS -10

define Y_MIN_POS 0

define Z_MIN_POS 0

define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE

define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE

define Z_MAX_POS 250

I find having the bed size set to 220 is on the limit (with a glass bed) and changed both x and y bed sizes to 215. Then x_min_pos -27 seems to work well for me, assuming your x limit switch sticks out. I leave the y min pos as 0

It doesn't fit the std 45mm X axis :( I'll have to enlarge the hole with a solder

I still can't find a good fan extension for 74mm version... everything and even Mistral don't fit (they touch bed) anyone with a good idea for that? Need a "shorter" version for it

I have the same issue. Stock is too high. Mistral as well. Circular fans are also too high. Does anybody know a "flatter" fan duct? Maybe this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2088006?

Anet A8 Fan Duct Spaceship edition
by paul0

You may try my remix at: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3030241

A few minutes ago I added the version 1.2d that should fit the spaceship fan duct. :)

Anet A8 E3D v6 mount

Tried that, unfortunately still "too high" :( The only one that works currently is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2612421 but doesn't stick and also keeps bending a bit :/

Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct - Small

hi i measured my E3D V6 clone at 63mm and printed the mount but my z axis is hitting the endstop and my nozzle is about an inch away from the bed.did i measure wrong ? im not sure what i need to get this to work does anyone have any advice? this is the hotend i bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DL1C64

Would you be able to provide a STEP file for Anet_A8_E3Dv6_Mount part? I want to make some adjustments for my setup.

Thank you in advance :)

Would you please add slots for 3mm nuts at the 2 extruded clamps I have to clear nozzle jambs often and stripped mine out.

Hi! Nice design. Could you tell me what to use to secure the cap to the carriage? With screws? What size? Thanks.

I need an x axis belt tensioner that works with this mount. Any suggestions or possibly know of one that does work?

Anet A8 X Belt holder and tensionner

My printed Mistral fan duct does not fit onto this carriage because the left air way hits the mounting plate. :(
Did I miss something?

I solved the fan duct problem myself. :)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3030241

Anet A8 E3D v6 mount

Try sandpaper.

has anyone made a holder for a 3dtouch or a bltouch that works with this carriage and the associated cable chain

Comments deleted.

put it in a use trail and error ultil you get it in the right way and the reight two consecutive pins

Any way to mount the cooling fan on the back instead side?

Many thx! Is there available a bltouch mount?

Just a curious issue when I rendered this in OpenSCAD. What's with the things hanging off the bottom of the mount?

i found that #define X_MIN_POS -15 and #define Y_MIN_POS -5 put the prints in the center but i might have some strange gcode somewhere such as my slicer

I made this at 50% infill and 0.1 resolution. The top layer shifted. Any ideas as to why?
It shifted by 13.40mm

I think I may have found the problem. I restarted to print and noticed at about 3% that the cooling fan hadn't started. I flicked it with my finger and it started up. I ordered a new cooling fan from China.

Just finished a second print. It printed perfectly! It was likely a cooling issue.

So I printed this using PLA at 200 degrees with the bed at 65 degrees. It all went pretty well but about 2/3 of the way through the corners began to peel up from my glass plate. Can anyone offer thoughts as to why this happened? I know a certain amount of warping is to be expected but this makes the linear bearings on the back sit out of alignment and the carriage drags. Any thoughts on how to remedy this?

Try printing with a brim. This will anchor the sides down to the build platform. You can usually turn on the brim in your slicer settings.

In the details it says use the Mistral fan duct. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2121279 Which version of this duct should be printed to fit this carriage? There are a couple different lengths and heights for this duct.

"Mistral 2.1" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer
by Leo_N

wondering the same thing. I think the main one

Does the semi-circular fan duct work with this?

this. anyone knows?

What is a good part fan duck to use with this I also ahve my tronxy bed leveler on the right site using https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2425652 to hold Froint of hotend and Tronxy. no fan seems to be good. I am using the original Anet A8 fan duck. it seems to work fine...

Thanks

Anet A8 E3d v6 tronxy sensor mount RIGHT
by Mchaos

im a total beginner and for more experienced user this might be a stupid question but what material should i use?
i have pla and abs

ABS just in case it melts

Hello and congrats about your design, 1 question what is the distance of you Y carriage rods? thank you.

I have several questions regarding the non-commerical license. Let's say I print an object, that is of my own design with the help of this bowden carriage. The object that I have printed, will be sold for my profit gain. Will I violate the rule?

Second scenario is, if I print parts for my homemade CNC machine, again, with the help of this carriage. And then, with the CNC I'll be making stuff for my business. Same question, will I violate the rule?

Lastly, if the two questions above lead to a no, I'll have to print another carriage that is not NC. The thing is I'll be printing the new one with the current carriage (which is this one) since the initial hotend (the one that come with the Anet package) is already in a bad shape.

Sorry if my question sounded silly, I'm planning to make a small manufacturing business in which I'll be making patterns for metal casting.

Where can you get the fan duct that clips onto the hotend to print out please?

I have the tronxy sensor is there an addon piece to get it working with this carriage?

Also my hotend heat sink where mount to thios frame is 11.92mm will this work. once other carriage i printed and that open was too small

For those of you who want to use a 40mm fan, and bltouch sensor, ive made a cap (remixed the cap from Triple_S remixed carriage (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2741029). Probe offset is 29mm.

Thing link, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2841364

Improved Customizeable Anet A8 E3D v6 E3Dv6 Carriage with 40mm Fan Mount
E3DV6 Cap w/ 40mm fan & bltouch mount
by n54gasm

Is the stl file attached to your comment the fixed version or is the link? The BLTouch attachment point is in two different positions.

I can't say enough positive things about this AWESOME carriage. Thank you so much for this!

Any chance anyone has a sensor mount to move the sensor from the backside to the front right? Anet has overtravel in the front so you can increase the probe area. with the sensor on the back side you only get ~75% of the bed probed. IMO the ideal locations for the sensor is, when looking at the front of the extuder, in-line with the nozzle or slightly forward of it, and to the right.

I see a lot of people asking for a BL-Touch mount. I found this one on here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2435075
It's easy to adjust and tweak the height.
All kudo's go to Papajohn88 for the design.

BLTouch Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Mount
Comments deleted.

// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.

define X_MIN_POS -33

Is this where I change the setting to recenter the nozzle after adding the new mount? I can find no other spot of having a X min pos.

Thnaks for this ;-)
I'm now using it on my A8, very light design but very strong.
Easy to maintain.

Again, many thanks

Will PLA work for this or do I need to use ABS?

I printed it in PLA. Using this carriage for a while now. Just absolutely great! No hot parts are getting near the PLA. So just print in PLA and you'll be fine!

What’s everyone using for screws to attached the Bowden mount to the clip? My hot end still rotates with the standard bolts.

My hot end still rotates too but since its the hole is the center of rotation its not that much of a problem, even tho I would like it too sit still too..

Whoever bought a E3D V6 Clone and needs a fan duct that fits
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832513

Great design TNS and thank you, it fits perfectly and really helped my anet a8 get the jobs done.

E3D V6 Clone fan duct for E3D V6 carriage

I was wondering why you mount the hotend in the middle like that. It requires changing the firmware then. If it was mounted to the left by 10mm and then the fan on the right, would that be better? I am not trying to be impertinent, I am genuinely curious why you did not construct it that way? I am going to design it off to the side and am wondering if I am missing something?

You should for it. I would also recomend upgrading firwear to marlin as it has a lot more saftey features in it.

I don't want to though :)

Incredibly well designed. Fits well. Works as expected. Thank you for sharing this design!

Comments deleted.

I am not the designer by the way. You do not need to modify you motherboard. You can change this in your slicer settings.

S3D - Click Tools -> Options
Now go to "Machine" tab.
Under "Origin Offset" insert 1- under X axis.

I have been trying to figure out how you would do this in Cura but it seems to be a right pain to find the setting.

How it work with the #define X_MIN_POS -10

Anyone else getting vibration from the fan all they way through the head? any ideas on a fan that wouldn't cause this? or a remedy to try?

You could try some rubber washers to reduce the vibration.

I just printed and installed this awesome Thing! Thank You!

I have some little issues with the positions.
When is Use G29 (MESH_BED_LEVELING) the probing is done too far right in the x axis.
Any Idea how to fix this in the Firmware?

Best regards.

Oh my god - im stupid. I forgot the #define X_MIN_POS -10

Another Question:

Any good profile Settings to use with a E3Dv6 for CURA or S3D?

What kind of fan can I use with this setup?

Standard fans.
Parts needed
J head Hotend + Teflon + the lil adaptors that screw in. Complete set.
€5.55
goo.gl/28cFuT

I suggest buy a replacement J head which includes the heatsink, may as well be safe and be ready if it breaks.
€3.04
goo.gl/Db757y

Get a replacement fans of each so you are never in the position where you cannot print!
Hotend fan:
€1
goo.gl/PztPrw

Extruder fan:
€0.82
goo.gl/gaRzqo

Hi, is there any chance to have the .SCAD file of the Cap too? Thank you very much

Any chance you're willing to release the files a step or another solid body format? I'd like to do some modifications to add strain relief and make it easier to use a piezo bed sensor. .f3d would be ideal, but I know not everyone uses fusion so any solid body format would be adequate.

Hey, thanks for your design, printed it and right now im upgrading my Anet ;)

I made a sensor mount for the original anet bed level sensor that fits in with this design, it can be found here if anyone needs it:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2731624

Anet A8 Stock Bed Level Sensor Mount for Bowden Setup

I'm having an issue with the offset, i added the #define X_MIN_POS -10 in the config.h, but my prints are not centered it seems to be printing slightly to the left. any ideas?

Is it possible to make a pen plotter like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2167147
for this mount?

Pen holder for Anet A8
by Rmnvgr

Hi guys,
I really like this hotend mount, but my part cooling fan rattles, like, A LOT :D
Already tried putting tape between it and the holder and different things but didn't work.
Any ideas?
Thank you in advance!

Coul you create same carriage for dual e3dv6? is impossible on customizer

Great guide - thank you for putting this together. I picked up an E3D V6 clone on Gearbest for super cheap just to give it a try, and it works flawlessly.

Comments deleted.

I remixed lokster semi-circular fan duct to fit in the chinese E3D V6 Clone, the link is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2612421

Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct - Small

Has someone changed the stock blower fan with a 40mm fan ? What stl did he use to make it work with this setup?

I remixed lokster semi-circular fan duct to fit in the chinese E3D V6 Clone, the link is https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2612421

Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct - Small

+1 I used the fan linked and it does not fit correctly, it clashes with the clamp. It kind of connects just not very well :(

Am using a E3D V6 Clone which is 64mm in height, and used customiser to create the backplate.

Anyone care to try the customizer and see if it works for you? I can't get anything to work and really need to change some things on the design.

TNS, if you see this, can you supply the cad model so I can try to change it in another method.

I really need the help because the fan is too high, and I need a sensor mount.

One of the first lines says "render_mode = 1;", change that 1 to 0 and render it, then export it as STL.

It worked for me yesterday. I turned off render before submitting / creating as first time it did fail

i have a e3d clone version with 200 ohm thermistor,
and the normal version of the anet has 100k ohm thermistor. does the board detect that its different or does it needs to get defined in configure.h file?

In the end i just reused the existing thermistor with heater from original print head

Hi!

I don't trust the mounting of the X belt holder. Is there a version of this carriage out there that supports at least two nuts for the six mounting holes?

I know what you mean, but I have mine set up this way with the X belt holder, and I don't have any issues.

Works fine with an e3d v6 clone but i have a genuine one and it sits too high so the part fan ducts sit too low. great design just gutted the fan ducts dont fit

works great! e3d v6 clone.
in the atart Gcode add G92 X16
in the end Gcode add G92 X0

this will remove the offset so the next part you print will not start creeping to the other side of the carriage. it will always be smack dab in the center without needing to power cycle the machine.

Anyone else having problems with the customizer?

It fails every time and shows nothing on the details page.

I have to update this because my cooling fan will not work. The original design, which is very good, puts the fan and duct too high on the heat block. I was also forced to shim the fan out 3 or 4 mm to even get the duct to snap on.

But, since the customizer isn't working for me, I can only wish.

Thanks for drawing this up. I just got it printed and installed on my A8.That sure pulled a lot of weight off of the X axis I printed a 20mm calibration cube first off and it is smooth without a sign of a ripple.
The numbers I came up with for the offset was 16mm on the X axis and 3mm on the Y axis.
Thanks again this really helped improve my print quality.

Is it normal for the hot end to wobble a tiny bit when screwed on tightly?

Hey, no remix for direct drive version ?

Hey what fan duct are y'all using my stock one is too long hits the bed

Comments deleted.

Hey, I had the same problem. I printed the original one with reduced Z-scale. We probably messed up in the customizer.

Worked find when using clone v6 but genuine wont fit

Which size fits best for the e3d clone? The 63 or 74 mm?

Thanks for this, works great! Love modularity as well. Part of my reasoning for upgrading was how you wrote about the increase in speed. Can you recommend speed settings (PLA)? I've looked and seen a lot of different settings. I don't mind 0.2-0.3 resolution (0.4 Nozzle), I really want to cut back on print times though.

These are my current settings if anyone has advice:
https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22046829_10155995785409416_8906844564048498901_n.jpg?oh=3e575a0cd578ca01bdbb8d547d51d931&oe=5A421F8E

Where do you mount your X Axis stopper?

Can I use PLA? Or does it habe to abs?

For stock board and firmware, run G28 to home axis and then G92 X16 to set new extruder position. This should get you pretty close. For further fine tuning adjust the value following the X. For example, G92 X17 will move the position of the print 1mm more to the left while G92 X15 would move the print 1mm to the right.

Hi, i´m using your carriage in combination with your sensor holder v2. How do I have to set the boundaries for probing?

This Part is Great and works perfect!
It took me forever to figure out how to properly account for the x-axis limit switch offset on my Anet A8 with Cura 14.07
Their needs to be more information to show how to do this (online, not this part)
I work with cnc mills and 60 ton punch/plasma every day and this was still a pain in the a**.

If you only add in these two lines (the ones that everyone talks about in forums) it will move your start position every time you make a new part without power cycling the machine!!!

[cura start code that everyone suggests]
G0 X-9.0 ;mpaccount for new gantry (9 mm was specific to my situation)
G92 X0 Y0 Z15 ;mp
set this position as the new x/y zero

You must "re-Zero" the X and Y every time (G92) to avoid power cycling the anet A8 (see below)
The lines with "mp" in the comment are ones I have added

[cura start code that works well]
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G92 X0 Y0 ;mp (this is the line mentioned above)
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G0 X-9.0 ;mp new gantry
G92 X0 Y0 Z15 ;mp
set this position as the new x/y zero
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length

Hope this saves someone else from the massive headache it caused me.

So many Thanks for this! I swapped the print head and was getting frustrated that I was off by +16mm on the X and +4mm on the Y. I just subbed in my numbers to your snippet of gcode and bang on center again. Thanks!

Also, thanks for the carriage mount thing--works like a charm with my e3D V6 clone!

Hello.
Can I use this with E3D V5?

Comments deleted.

Does this incorporate a end stop for the X-Axis micro switch

Perfect fit for the e3d v6! Thanks a bunch for the design.

Just wondering, what length/size screws are used to hold the hotend clamp. There seems to be no mention of this anywhere, just saying you should attach it but not with what.

I'm also looking for what screws are used for the hotend clamp. Did you find out which ones to use?

Nope, holding off on printing this until I get a response. I'm starting to wonder if there will be one.

If you are still wondering, I used two m3 20mm screws, but you may be able to go a little bit longer.

I also want to know this.

Great design. I'll be using this for my E3D V6, infact I've already printed this. One question though, does the stock M3 fit for mounting the hot end? What length? Tried fitting it and it was a tight fit that its quite hard to drive the screws inside.Another option Im looking is using black screws. Will that work? Thanks!

hi fella i using the anet a8 with skynet v232 what do i need to modify in the configuration h fils for this i all so be using the same auto bed sensor or mound using the

The Customizer just say Error :/

My nozel seems to high up do you think i printed the wrong one? i have a e3d clone and i cant put a part cooling fan because its so high up thanks again

There are 2. one is for a longer break. The other is for the standard e3d. I printed the one that makes it short, same one you did. I chose that one because it makes it a tighter package, and give you a little more overhead. I printed a custom duct that works with it.

What kind of screws do i use for this?

You should find all details in the thing-description and/or the instructions page.

It doesn't say for the hot end cap... :/

So me and my father have been using this mount for our knock off E3D V6 from gearbest, and it was looking good, except during a lot of our prints the PLA would bind up somewhere in the E3D V6. We talked to some people and they said that it was a matter of the fins heating up and not getting cooled well. Sure enough, the fins were hot to the touch and the back part, the mount we printed, was also very warm. We have assumed this is the issue as the PLA becomes pliable within the V6 and were wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how did they resolve it?

So we believe we found what the issue is, it seems in Cura the retraction settings were pulling the filament a whole 6.5mm! E3D says that a maximum of 5 is okay, which explains the binding in the heartbreak and the extreme heating of the fins. Now at 3mm we are doing well and the fins are just barely warm

At what temperature are you printing?
Which cooling fan mount for the hotend do you use?

I replied to my old message saying the supposed fix I found, we were printing between 200 and 220 and it still messed up with any cooling fan. Thanks for the offer of help though if the issue persists I'll let you know!

Great Design!
I really can wait to print it but i have a tronxy sensor, can u add a mount for that?

I had only one issue with this print, it's the e3d diameter, mine seems like 5.5mm and the support is like 6mm, any of you had a remake with this adjustment, I'd like to print it right so it stays tight, I made some adaptation but couldn't get it 100%. Everything else is awesome. Thanks.

I am using a clone e3d. It's very tight on mine. Doesn't seem to get loose on mine. If it does, I will remake my self so that it is tighter.

After Printing this in PETG 100microns I have noticed that after about 20 prints my e3d now has play when starting my prints making bed levelling an issue. I am assuming this shouldn't be happening

If all the screws are tight, and it is moving... is it moving in the guide bearings? The stock ones seem to have play in them. I am going to upgrade mine eventually.

Did you print in abs or pla? If you printed it in pla it is melting... you need to use at least abs.

The carriage is fine, its only the e3d moving maybe 1mm front to back

is anyone using a BL-Touch sensor with this mount and can point me to bl-touch mount that will fit?

Can i use the official anet a8 sensor roko? or i got to order a new sensor

the anet a8 doesn't have an official sensor which one are you talking about?

What are the Settings for the Sensor Holder which is in Customizer.

Any idea what I'd need to mount a Tronxy xy-08N auto level sensor? it's supposed to go behind the cooling fan but with this design it leaves no room for it.

I would just get a capacitive sensor. I got one from Amazon so I can use a glass bed on my tronxy. The sensor I got was 18mm. I cut the pigtail off the tronxy sensor and soldered it to the new sensor. I think it's better then the tronxy sensor.

With the original setup I designed my own bracket, but now I'm in the process of switching everything to this setup.

I had to use this mount because my other thermistor was broken and I'd already printed this, but I just need to find another one, not only will not not house the Tronxy which I already have (and I use PEI which I find superior to glass without needing a new sensor) but you'll notice the fan shroud is stock in all of the shots, found this one does not give room for a custom fan shroud.

Do the parameters need changing if using GT2 belts as I am going to fit the E3D Nozzle, Extruder and sensor this weekend?

Comments deleted.

Hi,

the Customizer doesn't seem to be able to render the model at all. I just get the "Error!" message everytime wihtout any job details.

Could you please provide me with the STL for the belt holder shown in photo #4.
My Anet A8 did NOT come with anything that even looks like that, my kit came with two screws, two bolts and a couple of zip ties for the belt holder.

Thanks Very Much,

read the description next time https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1433295

belt attachment part for Anet A8
by Simhopp

How do you change the config.h file?

when you upload marling or skynet to the printer you can edit the config h file. to get to it you need to reupload firmware to your board.

Did someone tried this design with Tronxy or Zonestar P802M ?

Thanks for the design, this thing is awesome and the fact that it's customizable is even better. The only thing I saw it lacking was an option for a BL touch mount so if anyone's looking for one, or you'd like to add it to the description I made some of a few varying sizes (for dialing in clearance, though the 44.6mm measured from the bed design should be spot on) that should work perfect with the authentic e3d v6. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2330764

BL Touch Rear Mount

Hi, I am new in the world of 3d printing, but how do I change the offset settings??

I just created a Backplate which fit your Bowden Carriage and includes Bearing Blocks, X-Belt Tightener and Sensor Holder. Maybe somebody has a need for it too.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2327099

ANET A8 | Backplate for Customizable E3D v6 Carriage / Bowden Mount
by iRazoR

Any recommendations on a BL Touch mount that can work with this? Using the 63mm carriage.
Thank you in advance :)

I actually just designed this one. It's nice and light, plus you can print exactly the size you determine you need (trial and error with a few, if you have a feeler gauge you can figure out exactly what size you need and just print that after printing one of them that's a bit off) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2330764

BL Touch Rear Mount

That one could work I think if you use the original bearing blocks: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2248739

Anet A8 3dTouch rear mount

does it matter that you use PLA as material for this kind of mount ???

PLA is working fine for me!

after the e3d upgrade did you have to do something else or is it ready steady to print after attaching it all ??

After mounting everything and changing the parameters as stated in the description it should work right away!

yeah i think iím going to design it so it is in the original spot :)

Where did you get the new hot nozzle feed? My anet only has the stock feed where I need to feed manually into the hole on top of the motor.

this is the e3d clone + bowden setup i use. the gearbest link is 1 e3d clone wich includes all the needed tubes and fittings

http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_613785.html
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2146021

Anet A8 Bowden Extruder Mount

Actually I don't know, which component you are referring to... But everything should be listed in the description.

Sorry I meant the extruder. Stock it doesn't have the plastic tube coming out of it to guide it, where do you get that?

With this setup, you will need a new hotend and a teflon tube etc.
Links to other useful components (bowden extruder) and used components can be found in the thing description.

I finally found some time to install this mount, since I'm using the rear-auto-level-sensor,I made these
changes:

define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0

define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 50

define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 50 (already had that setting)

define X_MIN_POS -10

But now when I'm doing a G29 he's going minimal out of bounds on the right side (~1cm). any Ideas?

Could anyone please post the complete offsets + bed positions for this setup?

Writing my problems down helps me solving my problems. :). Shortly after I've written since I did some other checks, because I couldn't believe I was the only one with this issue. I've also changed my belts and pulleys during the mounting process so I did some measurements. I was 20% off my old settings. so now, after I've saved the values G29 stays in bounds.

Is the front fan really necessary? I always thought it was meant to cool the stepper motor?

The fan mounted to the hotend is definitely required, because it ensures that just the nozzle is hot, while the shaft is kept cool. If the shaft would also heat up, the filament in it would jam and clog the hotend.

The other fan is for cooling the print after leaving the nozzle. In some cases one can print without this fan (depending on material and situation). But in some cases it is an obvious advantage to enable print cooling (e.g. bridging).

Ok, this makes sense. Thanks

There are 2 carriage files in the download.

Which one is the correct one? there is a 63mm and a 74mm not sure why I would shows one over the other.

Please refer to the thing description...

If anyone needs the MAX_POS:

define X_MAX_POS 220

define X_MIN_POS -14

define Y_MAX_POS 220

define Y_MIN_POS -3

define Z_MAX_POS 220

define Z_MIN_POS 0

not 100% perfect, but they are preety close.

hi i upgraded to this mount over the weekend and i finally came across this, where do i add these codes at on Cura?

I'm getting using Repetier

define X_MIN_POS -7.5

define Y_MIN_POS -10.5

With

define EXT0_X_OFFSET 0

define EXT0_Y_OFFSET 0

the stock firmware seems to use define EXT0 to set the offset which is more complicated as it's expressed in steps
but it makes no difference in the long run.

Normaly, the X_MAX_POS and Y_MAX_POS parameter should be at 220 by default... (and Z_MAX_POS at 240).

TNS you are right, that's the reason I've switch to use this model, as the one I've been using before was not able to reach 240mm of Z, but I forgot to change the values from 220 to 240 in Skynet. Thanks again!! it works great this design!!!
Quick question, do you have or know any belt holder that also works for the stock leveling sensor? the blue scuare one.

With the super short proper e3d V6 you can reach 250mm on the Z

Do i need this to print or can i do it with the stock stuff need to know ASAP.

I also printed the 74mm version. but the Mistral 1 or 2 fan duct does not fit, it's way too long than my nozzle, so the duct touches the glass bed first instead of the nozzle. What I did was to change the scale of the Mistral 2 (v2.1a), specifically the height scale then rotated it so that it wont need any support. it was scaled to 20mm height, so now the nozzle is further down than the fan duct. :)

Thx for the feedback! Are you sure, that the measure of your hotend lenght was correct?

When setting the correct height in the customizer, there should be no issues...

Anyone want to recommend a specific cooling nozzle for this setup?

The popular semi-circular one I had been using with the stock extruder, does not seem to fit my new e3dv6-style setup with this mount very well.

the mistral 2 duct is good, but it wont fit if you printed the 74mm :) change the height scale of the mistral duct

It's somewhere written down in the comments here... But I added it to the thing description now:

I use and recommend Leo's Mistral 2 or the Anet A8's stock fan duct. With the Mistral you should rotate the heater block in a way that the shortest extent points to the fan.

(Another option would be to determine the offset in x, y, z direction of your beloved (semi-)circular fan duct to the nozzle and then insert them in the expert settings in the CUSTOMIZER to fit the mount!)

"Mistral 2.1" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer
by Leo_N

Hi there,I just wanted to say that ,that design is really cool and I to be able to see the nozzle while printing is a big plus,I just wanted to ask as I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had my Anet A8 printer for about two months,and I've done quite a few prints like support frames and I wanted to upgrade to an E3DV6 hot end but I'm using a standard Anet auto level sensor that sits on the back of the X carriage and I'm not sure how to adjust the this X carriage to fit that,also how do I adjust the settings on skynet firmware for the E3DV6 Bowden set up and also settings on cura,I really apologise for troubling you and I'm really grateful for your help kind regards,Gareth Keith

I personally do not support (i.e. provide files for) the standard Anet leveling sensor, but I recently saw several mounts for this type of sensor (just search through the thingiverse ;-) ).

The settings you need to adapt in the Skynet's configuration.h file are all written in the thing description (concerning the nozzle location). The new position of your sensor must also be incorporated there and is commonly provided by the corresponding designer!

do you start mesuaring the height from the top of the pneumatic coupler or from the end of the aluminium heatbrake ?

The height is measured without the pneumatic coupler / push-fit

thank you, you should probably add that in the part description :)

Yes. Now i printed the bigger one and my fanduct won't fit.... Anyone got a good working fanduct i can use? Already switched to bowden. Everything is working exept the fan -.-"

For me, the stock one as well as Leo's mistral 2 works fine. (For the mistral, the heater block needs to be rotated in a way, that the smallest side faces towards the fan)

TNS, do you know if the sensor mounted on the right front of the carriage will clear the cable chain end piece? I currently have it mounted on the rear using your brackets from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2105275.

ANET A8 | Rear Bed Level Sensor Holder (18mm, 12mm & 8mm)
by TNS

Depending on sensor size and the position you set your sensor holder, it may interfere with the cable chain or other components (e.g. cooling fan of hotend)!
Thanks for pointing this out, I will clarify this in the thing-description!

I just used the new .scad file to create a carriage with a sensor mount for a 12mm sensor. Thanks for making the .scad file available. What is the preferred position of the sensor, behind the carriage or on the right side with the sensor mount being a permanent part of the carriage?

Hello John,
I'm still using and preferring the mount behind the carriage!
Several people asked for a sensor holder, thats why I added this option.
Best Regards,
Tim

Any chance of adding the SN04 to the sensor options in the scad file?

Currently not planned to do so, sorry...

will you be able to try to do so please? I just got the sensor and am now planning to use the e3d carriage

The heat block is very close to the bottom with the real E3D V6 extruder and with petg none of the through hole zipties work but thanks anyway, it's boss.

No ziptie problem here only the first layer was a challange, just printed the first layer very slow, @240 bed @70 fan after 20layer or so @20-25% Did no cleanup and zipties go straight tru. Pherhaps I was lucky. I could be that every color has is own temp settings, PETG difficult to print with overhang ect..

just see my remake @ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2207765

ANET A8 Alunar M508 E3D v6 Carriage Bowden Mount with 18mm Sensor Mount

Thanks for the feedback! Why do the zip-tie holes not work with PETG?

I mean the ones that go in the front and come out the side not the normal ones they are fine, Pobably because I have the settings wrong, PETG is string city.

Ah, ok! I didn't print PETG yet...

Btw. if some other PETG user reads this pre-print: zip-tie holes can be disabled in the customizer interface!

Is it possible for you to modify the Customizer settings to allow the "X Offset Hotend" to go to -10 (instead of -8 as it is now)? This way, I can shift the fan holder and hotend over by -10, my current chain holder and accessories will fit, and I will not have to modify anything in the firmware.

1) You can download the source file and edit it your own

2) I think, if you put x-offset all the way to -8mm, your hotend (cooling) will collide with the fan mount...

TNS since you said it was okay, I went ahead and did that. I moved the fan mount and the hotend over -10mm so that they don't collide. I just need to make sure it doesn't interfere with the motor mount on the left. I will print it up and see how it goes. Thank you!

The problem is that when you move the fan mount further to the left, it will hit the x endstop 'earlier', and therefore introduce another offset of 10mm.

how do I edit the configuration.h file or change the offset on the stock A8 firmware?

I found my next upgrade! Thanks , ill post pics

Is there anyway to configure the center position on the LCD or can you only do it through the firmware? Thanks

As far as I know, the only way to deal with this is via the firmware...

But as long as your parts are >1cm smaller than the print surface in x direction, you won't have any issues with the offset.

Ok, thank you.

And I tried 3 different carriages before yours, yours was the winner by a long shot!! Great job on this.

Amazing job with this design, I like it a lot. Would just increase the tolerance for the M3 screwholes on the mount to be able to use the stock ones, mine won't fit in the current diameter.

Everything else is working perfectly.

Thanks for the feedback!

I also used stock M3 screws, but left the screw holes quite tight in order to enable the two screws to withstand the forces of the hotend (lever).

I'll see what I can do! Maybe I'll introduce another parameter in the customizer for the screw holes, so everyone can adapt it to their own needs.

Noob question. But how do I change the offsets on my printer? Thanks

Sorry for the late repy! Have a look at 'SkyNet 3D', thats a custom firmware for the ANET printers, which also enables many other functionalities.

Moin,
Ich habe die 74mm version gedruckt es passt auch alles wunderbar und der druck sieht spitze aus aber leider sitzt die nozzlekühlung zu tief woran könnte das liegen ?

Momentan muss ich ohne kühlung drucken da ich mir nicht anders zuhelfen weiß.... :(

Ich könnte mir vorstellen das mein E3D V6 clone den ich bei PJ bestellt habe entweder zu kurz ist oder meine standart nozzlekühlung (Anet lieferumfang) zu lang...

Hast du die tatsächliche Größe deines Hotends gemessen? Die Länge von der Druckdüse bis zum oberen Ende (ohne die Druckkupplung für den Bowden) ist hier entscheidend!

Die bereitgestellten Dateien (63mm und 74mm) sind lediglich häufig auftretende Größen! Im CUSTOMIZER können alle beliebigen Größen eingestellt werden.

Ja habe den fehler gefunden mein e3d ist nur 64 lang....

kann ich wohl die halterung ohne nozzle kühlung drucken ?

Comments deleted.

Hi, gibt es irgendwo einen mount für einen Levelsensor? Ich habe einen Tronxy (aber eher Anet Stock denke ich, dieser blaue eckige)

Hallo,
habe leider nur für die schraubbaren (zylindrischen) Sensoren eine Halterung für die Rückseite des Linearschlittens...

Hmm schade, würde mir ja einen adaptieren aber dazu fehlen mir momentan schlicht und einfach noch die Skills. Mehr als OpenSCAD is noch nicht drin bei mir :( Aber ich such mal weiter. Vielleicht findet sich ja was passendes. Hatte jetzt schon eine komplette Halterung gedruckt, allerdings fuer 63mm E3D v6 und ich hab nen v5 der is ~80mm in der Höhe und da bin ich dann auf dein schönes schlankes Design gestossen

Bin gestern Abend zufällig über diesen hier gestolpert: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2063521
Evtl. hilft der ja weiter...

Anet A8 SN04-N Auto Leveling Sensor Bracket

Ah super danke. Allerdings hab ich mir in openSCAD nun selber einen "programmiert" und die Firmware angepasst.
Aber ob das was wäre den hier hochzuladen weiss ich nicht, sind schon genug komisches Designs da ;)

Thanks, Sir for your job.
I have a question. Where is a file for front fan holder? Or did I miss something?

If you refer to the 40mm fan for the (clone) hotends, it is this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:962161 . (Link is also in the description).

E3D V6 Clone Cooling 40mm Fan Duct

Thanks for quick reply. Good Luck

How exactly is the Belt holder connected? it looks like it just screws into the print media. Wouldn't that be easily stripped? what screws are used for belt holder?

Yes, they are directly screwed into the print material. But since the belt holder (link in the description) takes all the force of the belt tension itself, the actual force applied to the connection of holder and carriage is rather small. Theoretically, even bolts without threads would do the job here!

I used spare M3 screws, which came with the printer... But I actually can't remember the length I used. (A guess would be M3x18).

Going to try and put this together today what 2 screws are holding the hotend? Are they extra screws included with the Anet a8 or purchased separately?

I just finished mounting the carriage and ran into an issue. The hotend was about a centimeter from the bed, even after the z stop was lowered all the way and the bed raised all the way up. Any reasons this? My hotend was measured at 63mm and I printed the appropriate carriage.

I'm using a sensor for bed leveling instead of the z-endstop...

But maybe another endstop setup can handle this issue, like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

Temporary for the next prints you might try to remove the lower of the two screws of the z-endstop and fixate it at a lower position with the remaining screw + tape/clamp/...

EDIT: Found this one some days later, which could also be usefull: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1610403

Z Endstop Fine Adjustment Prusa i3 - Anet A8
ANet A8 Z Endstop
by inteks

This is great once I got it to print. Had to use a raft. Recommend his belt attachment for this one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1433295

belt attachment part for Anet A8
by Simhopp

Yeah, this one is great! I also use it and referenced it in the description.

How to find the length of the hotend?
I can't seem to find the correct one.
Printed the 63mm one, but the fan ducts sits way too high.
Had one of the round one for the stock setup, but that one is about 5mm too short (at least)
Tried the Mistral duct by Leo N, but even that one seems too high.

http://imgur.com/gVLsuEM

the 63mm is for the Real E3D v6. You more than likely have a clone and need to print the 74mm version

I'm looking for a duct that fits as well. Have the semi-Circle, Spaceship, and Mistral 2. Neither work.

Im currently using the first version of the mistral and it works well.

Did you print the matching carriage to your hotend length?

I've got an e3d v6 (straight from e3d), measures 63mm. My nozzle seems too high up as well. Even with my 3mm glass plate, and Z resting on the end stop I can't get it low enough. It's close ~2mm from the bed, when the bed is raised up to max. Do you think the 74 would work, or should I customize? I love the design. Thank you.

Edit: So I figured it out, was a stupid mistake. Just in case anyone else has an issue, the Z endstop on the left is on a block that can be adjusted up and down. For some reason I never realized that.

Just measure the total height of your hotend. As written in the description - from top (where the push fitting is screwed in) to nozzle tip.

Alternatively, you can just measure the offset of the fan from you current setup and counteract it correspondingly with the "expert" settings using the customizer.

Okay - then the number must be 69.5mm for my clone hotend.
But the customiser seems out of order.
Have tried twice now, and it failed both times.

Did the rendering process fail? Or didn't it show up at all?

If the rendering failed: Did you toggle the first parameter for before export?

If it didn't show up at all: Some times the thingiverse site is realy busy and I experience issues with all customizer applications. (One alternative would be to download openSCAD and render the sourcefile locally)

If the 'Oh no!' error shows up: Try to clear your cookies or use a private browser session, then it should work!

It worked today - I have no idea what happend yesterday.
Going to start print now, and if it Works as intended I'll post a remix for a 69.5mm hotend :)

How much percent improvement in print quality is this modification supposed to deliver?
What aspects of the print are improving?
I can understand the reasoning behind it but my stock printer is doing a really good job already.

It's hard to tell in percentage... The mayor difference for me is the print speed. After the swap to this carriage, I'm commonly printing with 70mm/s (and above) without loss in quality, which was not possible before (at least for my stock machine).

Nevertheless: "Never change a running system!". If it works well for you with the stock equipment, there is no need to change anything ;-)

what fan nozzle did you use on the cooling fan?

I'm currwntly using Leo's Mistral

"Mistral" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer
by Leo_N

Awesome, thank you. I couldn't see it in the pictures.

On the pictures I still used the stock one ;-)

Thanks, man!
Your work is also awesome and served as a good and solid starting point / idea generator!

Hi, thanks for this design! I have one issue, my fan ducts do not work with this. They stick out much lower than the hotend tip. Any tips on how I could fix this or do you have a link to a recommended fan duct?

Just uploaded a new version CarriageV2_3__63mm_AnetA8_E3Dv6_Mount.stl, which should fit E3Dv6 hotends with a total height of about 63mm. (The fan is moved up 11mm compared to the old design).

Sorry for the trouble...

Thanks, I'll give it a try

Printed it and it the fan duct is good now, thanks so much!

FYI, the link below is the one that I purchased, so if anyone else has this one, use the 63mm version of the mount.

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=81948517735405&productId=32565821330

Nice! Good to hear!

Hi,
that's weird... For me the fan ducts were way to high up compared to the nozzle, that's why I redesigned it!
I like a rather simple duct layout (e.g. Leo's Mistral). Let me know if you can resolve this issue or if a redesign is required!

"Mistral" Extruder Cooling Duct for the Anet A8 Printer
by Leo_N

Quickly, can you show or put up how you run your hose to your filament? Meaning, where do you clip the hose end to? I have my filament loader on top of my machine. One of the 3D prints on Thingiverse that screws into the holes the LED screen uses and sits above.

I connected the other end of the hose to my remixed extruder motor mount. The filament is provided by an external filament holder.

I actually don't know, if this setup works well with a filament loader on top of the machine... Possibly the motor mount has to be further modified in order to perform well (e.g. one right below your spool holder).

Let me know if you're facing any issues and we'll see if we can solve them together ;-)

ANET A8 | Bowden Motor Mount
by TNS
Universal stand-alone filament spool holder (Fully 3D-printable)

I've been using the A8 for 2 months now. Great printer, the extruder set up is one complaint I have. The other being, I wa told you can't convert the A8 to a laser printer. I've just purchased the clone from your link. Once Google translate switched everything to English, I was good. Also, didn't know I could buy off Amazon internationally. When I copy and pasted the extruder type and looked it up in the U.S. Amazon, it didn't give any results. Then when I did find it, the cost was 3x more. So, much cheaper on the German Amazon. Going to remember that for future purchases. I'm going to print your parts now and set it up when the extruder arrives. If this works like you say, I'll be a very happy guy. Thank you for the time you put into creating this.

Hi TNS,

ich bekomme dein CarriageV2_2__AnetA8_E3Dv6_Mount nicht im S3D nicht gesliced.
Bei mir sind dann immer die Löcher dicht.

Kann Du dir das noch mal ansehen?

Gruß
Shojo

Hallo Shojo,

danke für dein Feedback!

Ich slice derzeit mit Cura und habe dabei keine Probleme... S3D besitze ich leider nicht und kann daher das/die Problem(e) nicht nachvollziehen. Habe dennoch eine überarbeitete Version 2.3 (CarriageV2_3__AnetA8_E3Dv6_Mount) hochgeladen.

Kannst Du es mit dieser bitte nochmals versuchen? Falls es weiterhin Probleme gibt, gerne melden!

Beste Grüße
Tim

Ja jetzt läuft alles!

Danke dir für deine Mühe :o)

Gruß
Dennis

Leider scheinen es sich bei deinen E3D um einen V5 zu handeln, da der V6 (wie meiner) Kürzer ist.
Daher passt das nicht mit den Fan Duct.

Sorry, tut mir leid, dass das nicht auf Anhieb passt!

Arbeite gerade an einer Lösung... Kannst du mir ggf. sagen, um wie viele mm der Lüfter zu tief ist?

Hi, passiert ;)

Hilft dir das so weiter?
http://imgur.com/a/YxyVE

Wow, danke für die detaillierten Infos / Bilder!

Habe gerade eine neue Version hochgeladen CarriageV2_3__63mm_AnetA8_E3Dv6_Mount.stl. Dabei ist der Lüfter 11mm höher gesetzt. Denke und hoffe das löst das Problem!

Top, versuche ich schnellst möglich :)

Passt :o)

Danke für die Arbeit!

Jetzt gibt es auch eine "Customizer" Version in der die wichtigsten Parameter angepasst werden können!

Falls also noch fine-tuning am Lüfter o.ä. benötigt wird, kann man das jetzt selbst erproben und gerne mit dem Rest der Welt teilen!

Super, schön zu hören!

Gerne ;-)

I would like to know which kind of filament you can use.
Is PLA working or does it have to be ABS or PETG because of deforming from the heat of the hotend?
Thanks for the reply.

Hello Angeloi,

I used PLA for my print and have no issues so far! The fan mounted to the hotend keeps the shaft way colder than melting temperature of PLA.

Amazing, I prefer your design. As soon as my Anet A8 arrives I will use it. Thanks for your help.