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_CrazyBob_

Amiga 1200 Gotek USB disk drive emulator base

by _CrazyBob_ Feb 11, 2017
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I don’t suppose you could include the design files? Looking at adding one of the slim displays instead of the led segment display, might need to tweak it a bit. Looks awesome, though, will get both my 1200s refitted. :)

Update: Found you already did this in another item here. Awesome!

Great item... but why does it have 2 small attachments? Can see where 1 goes from the picture but can't figure out if it's a spare or for the top end.

Do you mean the side support items?
You only need to print one of those. If you want to use the original metal motherboard top-shield the bigger side support won't fit.
In that case the smaller version can be used.

Smaller = a bit harder to print and fits in combination with the metal top-shield.
Bigger = easier to print but only fits when no top-shield is being used.

I've already ordered it printed, arrived today. I was sat here scratching my head trying to work out what the other part was for! Makes sense now, thanks!

Perfect! Enjoy the item!

Hi, thanks for your work.

How many brackets should I print?

Thank you :-)

Thanks, enjoy them!
As many as you like :-)
I'm working on a new version which supports the Oled for the Gotek FlashFloppy drive which will be finished before the end of October.

My printer seems to be a having a hard time trying to form the 2 screw holes for the first few layers, then later on I get weird layer shifting just for the screw holes.. rest of the print is fine.. wondering if its an issue with Cura. might try another slicer. anyone else with the same issue ?

I haven't seen this behaviour when printing this model. No idea where it comes from...

I think its more due to my printer having issues with getting short runs of filament to stick. The walls of the screwholes are initially created independently, which are very quick short runs. Im having issues laying down a skirt immediately, it doesnt seem to stick until 1/2 around the first run of the skirt. I might try raising my bed a little or try different filament.

I've bought a 'metric feeler gauge' from Ebay which I use for calibration of the bed level. (0.15mm) This improved printing the first layer.

You are right, it can also be the behaviour of the filament.
I'm using a small simple object to test out different types of filament. (Belt tensioner downloaded here from Thingiverse)
I.e. When there are openings around the edges of the printed object I increase the temperature with 5 degree Celcius. That way I can find the best printing temperature for my printer.
Maybe try PLA filament, easy to print and they tend to warp less compared to ABS.

definitely was due to my nozzle being to far from bed. Before I had to do initial layer of 0.3mm for success with other prints (a4 paper loosely touching nozzle) but now with paper moderately tight against nozzle I can print initial layer of 0.09mm. Now I have it printing almost perfect.. yep I think I will grab the feeler gauge. Its hard to get a feel for how close the nozzle should be to the bed with just paper. I've just realised after 2 months I havent been doing it 100% right but other models print fine with my original 0.3mm initial layer height.. Took 7.5 hours to print at 0.1mm, cant wait to try it out tonight on the old a1200.. many thanks for the model!

Great to hear you've made progress and enjoy the item! :-)

In the beginning I was struggling with the calibration paper and noticed it was not consitent
I've been using the feeler gauge now for several months and the results are better.

I know it takes long to print, I've been experimenting with less support, fill percentage and also removing sections from the 3D model.
But in the end it's harder to print or the 3D printed model is not strong enough.

Really nice - thanks for doing this!

Thanks, enjoy the item!

Small update: I've increased the disk drive button width 0.6mm on the left side.