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Anet A8 X Axis Cable Chain with Z Stop Adjustment

by drdobsg, published

Anet A8 X Axis Cable Chain with Z Stop Adjustment by drdobsg Feb 12, 2017
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20573Views 5434Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories

Summary

Modified the cable chain mount to include a z stop adjustment.

The only file i modified was the motor bracket, but i included the STL of the other files I used for reference. I used 16 links and a long chain piece.

Print Settings

Printer:

Anet A8

Rafts:

No

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

.2

Infill:

20+


Notes:

I needed supports for the motor mount piece.

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Comments deleted.

What are you using to hold the wires in? I see cross bars on your chain pieces that are not in the print. Are those separate pieces?

They are the "end_clip_v2" it is one of the STL files. They go in the little holes in the chains. Alternatively you can use zip ties, as starwhoopern describes in the original STL.

Made a new endstop mount holder for the Anet A8 2017 version. Also made knob for an adjustmen screw (M3 size).
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2375892 design is a little stronger

The end stop provided didn't lineup it was off by about 4mm to the right.

Anet A8 X endspot holder for 2017 version

I cannot get the long chain peice to fit on the print bed. I know there must be something I'm doing wrong, any advice?

Rotate it 45 degrees so it goes corner to corner.

Comments deleted.

What method or orientation did you use to print the long cable chain link

Basically as you see it in the model image. I may have rotated it 45 degrees so it was diagonal on the bed.

hey this works fantastically only thing should maybe change with the motor bracket holes well not holes but the rim around it i had to dremel it maybe 2-3mm deeper so that the stock alan screws could reach the motor to screw down, not the holes cos then the alan head wont be holding the bracket so yeah and maybe add a screw cap for the z stop screw cos why not :) .then i think this would be the complete package though the screw seems to push the end stop switch along the spinny bit which is fine but little extra real estate with a end cap might add more insurance that the screw wont miss.

I'm glad it works for you.

On mine, I felt the 20mm hex screws provided by Anet were a little short to begin with, so I didn't bother even trying to re-use those. If I remember correctly, 25mm M3 screws should fit perfectly. Unfortunately I couldn't find any of those locally and I only had 2 spares after building the A8 so one one hole i ended up using a longer screw with extra washers for now until i can find the right size screw.

The original bracket that i remixed from had that rim you are referring to at 1mm thick, but the one i printed it seemed a little thin so i increased that to 1.5mm on mine. I can see maybe changing it back to 1mm, but I wouldn't go much thinner than that.

I personally didn't use a boot on the end of my level screw. Did you try one that works well? I can add it this "thing" just to make it easier for people to download.

im gonna try out 2 ive found a smaller one and a bigger one see what makes life easier and ill get back to you

also i guess update on chain still working fine :) should one day sand it some more than i already have or grease it doesnt seem to have much resistance to begin with but yeah

edit: so ive tried 2 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2050229 this one was nice but the normal size was too thick for the screw because the switch and screw will max out before getting close to the bed so i printed again rescaling to 6mm height which worked for a bit but was too flimsy this was nice because it was in a hexagon shape so the edges help with turning by hand without the need for screwdriver

so i then printed the smaller one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429 the first one was too small so i just bumped scale to 1.1 on cura and seems to fit snug it may be a little small to adjust by hand but you can still do it i feel assured that it just cant miss :)

still using stock screw the ones with the phillips head used for the head bed as they were the longest

ANET A8 Z Endstop fine adjustment
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment Prusa i3 - Anet A8

What is the point of repositioning the z-switch? Can I implement this design and leave the z switch where it is currently

Moving the Z switch makes it easier to level the bed. For example, if your nozzle is too far away across the entire bed, u just have to adjust one screw instead of adjusting all 4 bed screws.

A link to the original chain mount without the Z switch screw should be in the description. However, i see no reason this won't work with the stock Z switch configuration. Maybe just print this one in case u decide to move the switch later? The Z switch screw is very helpful.

Thanks for this design, just what I was looking for. My only issue is the screw doesn't quite line up with the switch. It's about 3-4mm too far to the right. You can see it here: http://i.imgur.com/PzDHByX.jpg

Your z switch looks like it might be thicker than mine. Is that the one that came with the Anet? Mine is a newer model, as you can see the X motor bracket is different. Mine lines up almost exactly on the center of the switch, i don't even need a nut or boot on the screw. You can try a switch holder from another z switch. Try this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2008349

Or you can try over-tightening the bolts to see if it will move to the right any.

Anet A8 Z Endstop Switch Holder

Yea that's all stock. I've only had it a month or so, I think the seller had older stock.

I can't tighten it up any more than it is, otherwise I'm going to crack something :)

Thanks for the link, that little boot on the screw might be all I need.

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