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HEPA + Active Carbon Filter for 3D Printer Housing

by JKSniper Feb 12, 2017
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How long do these filters last before you have to replace them?

I use HEPA for 6-12months then use it in my vacuum cleaner outside. Carbon filter is replaced every 2-3 months when I begin to smell ABS a little. It's very cheap to replace so no problem with that...

Awesome! Can you recommend a good carbon filter?

The ebay stuff is working for me nicely. I cut it to size later.

Thank you for this model. I have printed all the parts and sawed a hole for the enclosure, just waiting for the HEPA filter to arrive to put it together. I was just wondering about the airtightness of my enclosure. I have sealed (with silicone) all gaps in the enclosure except for the door, which has its own seals. In one of the older comments you mention that it is good to have underpressure in the enclosure, but in another comment you mention the enclosure should have two times the surface area of the exhaust for intake. So, my question is this; can the intake area be that large and with that can you still achieve underpressure? Should you have adjustable intakes?


When you turn fan ON and it starts pushing air outside, there is under pressure inside cabinet. That means airflow will flow inside enclosure through intake ports and other small gaps around the enclosure. You need those intake holes, so it can breathe and allow air to come inside and stabilize temperature. You don't need adjustable intakes I think, just put some filters on them if you have it in very dusty room or workshop. You set flow of air / stabilizing temperature with FAN power.

Thanks, that makes sense. I will cut some intake ports on both sides front lower part, as I've got the exhaust on top back corner.

I tried a Noctua Nf-F12 Ippc-3000 , it has 3000 rpm and high pressure, 186,7 m³/h for 7,63 mm H₂O, but still I hardly if ever feel the air if I put my hand in the enclosure on the active carbon filter. Is it normal, considering I am running full speed?


Yes, that's normal. There is a video of a guy that's done testing with smoke and stuff, where you can clearly see the stream, but the stream is slow, as HEPA is pretty dense (and it should be!). All you need is slight underpressure in the enclosure, that prevents air leaking from enclosure and getting some new air pushed in to stabilize temperature.

Well, my enclosure isn't really heated, I just wanted a way not to suffucate in the house and safely try ABS. Hopefully it iwll work nicely anyway. :)

great design, but it needs a seriously powerful fan with a hepa filter. ek vardar 120 (20 ish pa) it actually starts to backflow and with an ml120 (44pa) its still very, very low.

trying to decide if I want to mod the design for a 140 and more options, or buy a 38mm thick jet turbine (60-70+ pa) from digikey...

Well you won't get high flow through HEPA and fan always have a bit "backflow" even when not restricted, but overall it still gets air out through it. I run at 10-40% power of my recommended fan and it works fine! One also tested month ago or something flow test with smoke and it worked great. I wouldn't go with higher fan size, nor jet turbine because of the noise.

Best regards,

i actually did use smoke:

the ek is a decent enough fan, but the ml120s are monsters (even 65-70% is unbearably loud for me) and had the same result at 100%

I was looking for a filter system and discovered that a hepa+carbon filter is good for standard particles like vaccum cleaner. But for ABS there are other specifications with classification:

So you need ABEK1 for gas and other thinks and P3R for particle. Maybe someone else has more experiencde

Well unless you live in the middle of the woods and have heating only on natural gas (Because burning wood produces insanely amount of particles), than opening a window will bring in more particles than comes out of hepa+carbon filter. If you live next to a street, than you might have a much worse air outside than it will come out of the printer anyways, but this combo will at least take the most out of air, along with annoying burning plastics smell. If you want to get rid of everything is actually a way to install a air-hose to the back of the FAN instead of HEPA filter and drive it outside.

I just printed this and am now trying to figure out which filters I need. Sadly, your link seems to be dead.

I've found a filter that looks like it woud fit:

I'm now contemplating what active carbon filter I want/need. Getting this bigger sheet and cutting it sounded like a good idea:

What are your thoughts about these? Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
Und schon mal frohe Festtage!

This both seems good options yes! I also cut my carbon filter to fit :)

Nice holidays to you too! :) :)

is it a must to have the filter so its sticking to the outside the enclosure? is it bad idea to have the filter just hanging inside enclosure?


  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

No, you can also have it inside, just mixing the air around, but it would be less efficient, you need to monitor temperature of enclosure so it doesn't get too hot and also check that mixing air doesn't reach the heatbed, as that can lead to warping.

I got it thnx

  • Posted with 3D Geeks Thingiverse Browser App

How did you do the power supply?

If you make permanent fan operation without regulation, you can also hook it up to 12V power supply from printer. It shouldn't be problem if you use small power fan. In case you want full operation, check

NEW V2 Electronics for Smart 3D Printer Enclosure - TOUCH

Now that I have JKSniper's approval I'll post a link to the remix of the center grill that makes it a little easier to assemble.

HEPA + Active Carbon Filter for 3D Printer REMIX Center Grill

you dont need approval, its "Creative Commons - Attribution license." :)

Thanks for the update! :)

I tried running this with the recommended Scythe PWM fan and an H13 electrolux filter, and I get no detectable airflow through the filter. I'm driving it at 12v at 100% duty cycle. I even tried sealing around the fan with blue tape, because some airflow had been bouncing back that way. However, even with that, the same result. Air gets sucked in and then somehow blown back past the fan blades anyway. If this is to work, it appears that I will have to use a lesser HEPA filter.

I am using a cheap 1350rpm fan and I can easily feel airflow on the outside of my enclosure with my bare hand.

Hi WhiteHare!
I think you need to try CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 140 AP its quite cheap and it has awesome static pressure 5.28 mmH2O (Scythe PWM has only 3.2 mmH20) (yeah it's bigger so we need small redesign but i think its worth it)
I will try to use it in next month, my hepa filter looks similar but has 13,5 x 10,5cm its from Zelmer Jupiter

(I just tested it with my Noctua set NF-P14r, NF-A14, NF-A15 and it's not enough)


I can't feel the air by hand also, but it does good job on cooling and I can see moving air with candle smoke, so I guess it's working OK. Just airspeed is minimal, which is something to expect behind hepa filter.

Maybe it would be possible to have the thin carbon filter bracing a bit wider, with screw holes in it? Right now, aligning it during assembly seems like an iffy proposition. If, instead, the screw holes could be used to register its position, it might assemble more predictably.


FWIW, I printed the main body on a Prusa I3 MK3 using PETG, and it came out just a bit too small to fit the filter into it. So, I'm scaling up by 1% (purely a guestimate) and reprinting. Hopefully the filter will fit that.

In any case, thanks for making this model available! It seems quite nice.

At what voltage should the PWM signal be sent to the Scythe PWM fan? i.e. what should the peak voltage of the PWM square wave (i.e. the PWM input control signal) be? 12 volts? 5 volts? Something else?

PWM - 5V is voltage level is expected from basically all computer fans.

Thanks! So the expected frequency is 25Khz then?

It works from 100hz up to 30khz+ for most of the fans.

Wouldn't it be better to have HEPA filter before the carbon filter? Carbon is used for filtering fumes, so having a HEPA filter before it would clean up the dust and particles, preventing them from cluttering the carbon filter. Another thing: I have a feeling that having a fan closed between the two layers somewhat decreases its efficiency, so having the fan first, then the HEPA, and finally the carbon filter would be an option to consider.

This is how I installed mine. It just didn't make any sense to have the carbon first. I do agree the fan would have been more efficient if it were the first thing inside the enclosure but I went ahead and just used it as it, but turned the whole assembly around. I might eventually redesign this so the fan is first.

From everything I have read it should go

Fan > Dust Filter > HEPA Filter > Charcoal

This preserves you HEPA and Charcoal from being clogged up by particles better caught by other filters.

Comments deleted.

Has anyone tried using this housing in an ikea LACK type enclosure with a prusa i3? I'm wondering if there will be enough room for it in there as shown in these pics, or if I'll need to mount the housing higher up...

Hey Petran,
There is a remix, designed to integrate into the top of a LACK enclosure. I'm in the process of integrating it into the Prusa LACK enclosure design now.

HEPA + Active Carbon Filter -- remix -- lack table depth

Here it is in mine on the top right with tons of room to spare. Doesn't look pretty, but it works great! You can see all the grey particles in the black charcoal filter after only a few weeks.

This is just great - just what I was looking for... but for a 140mm fan. Actually already bought the fan and the HEPA-filter last year to build something similar - but got stuck on the design (not my strong suit). Is it easy to change the design to fit a 140mm fan?

Cheers and kudos for your effort!

I'm afraid that's quite some work to do, as everything needs to be redesigned to fit larger fan... But I encourage you to learn 3D modeling and design it. It's great to have some knowledge in this area!


I just ordered the filters and have not yet printed the parts yet. But I would like to do the cutouts on my enclosure wall. How big of a hole must I cut into the panel for optimal fit? And rectangular it has to be, right?

Thanks and best regards - I like your work here!

The opening is 138x109mm and it's rectangular shape, yes. You can make 1mm larger cutout in enclosure wall, because it will get clamped and held into place anyway.

Best regards,

Did you wire up this fan with a sensor so it comes on automatically? What type of control circuit did you use?

I have otcoprint set up, so I'd like to have it automatically turn on the fan, but I'm not sure how to do it yet.

I'm thinking the easiest would be something like this with a Pi.

So when I load the stl files in slic3r, they're all standing up vertical . I can't see that printing correctly. Shouldn't the grilles be laying down flat when printing?

If they are oriented the wrong way when imported, you should lay them flat with grill on the print bed. Some slicers and different versions can import parts oriented the wrong way. You should always look after that.

I didn't know that. I assume when you loaded them in, that's the way they were designed and intended to print. Thanks!

When I print things I see that often they are in wrong orientation. That's just because some 3d software, exporters and slicers have different origin orientation. :)

Hi there!

Great design! Any chance you can point me regarding where to get activated carbon filters? I'm from Germany (you seem to be as well), so maybe you can let me know your source? I was ordering some from Amazon for cat toilets, but they're much more thin and small...

Thanks in advance!

Hey! I'm from Slovenia, but I got HEPA filter from - from Germany. I was amazed that 80% of HEPA filters on vacuum cleaners are the same, so you can probably one the right one in your local hardware store, but it could be a little more expensive.

Have any makers added a duct to the extruder ?

Hello! This is a very great design and I've added it to my ikea lack enclosure.

There's just one problem. Even at 100% fan speed, I cannot maintain temperature. The enclosure temps continue to rise unless I open the door to let cool air in. It seems it has a hard time pushing heat out of the HEPA filter. I do feel heat outside the filter, however, I feel it cannot keep up with the amount of heat that's coming off the heated bed. I have more than enough inlet holes for the Filter to bring in external air.

I'm using a fan controller and I've made sure its outputting 12V at 100% fan speed. Is there something I am missing?


Intake area should be at least 2x exhaust area. I have 5 holes 7cm in diameter in the bottom of enclosure

Thanks for the quick reply. I have plenty of intake holes in my enclosure. I'm not sure what the issue is.

Hm, where are you measuring enclosure temperature and what temperature are you wanting to achieve (and what is bed temperature)?

I'm measuring internal enclosure temps with a probe placed on the side/middle of the enclosure. I'd like to maintain 45C but it will climb to 50C+ even with fan at 100%. Bed temp is 90C.

Hmmm, that's really hot. I'm having 40-42°C at 20% when printing at bed temp 90-105... I'm measuring the temperature 5cm from intake, around 1/3 height of enclosure... You got 30°c in the room? :)

Yeah the room is below 30C. I ordered this HEPA filter It fits perfectly but I wonder if this one is harder to get air through. I'm just not able to get enough heat out

hey there! can anyone recommend what size screws to purchase to fit this together? cheers!

Awesome design, I'm currently printing the files. I have the HEPA filter identified with your link, but I'm having some issues finding the activated carbon filter...can you help me out?

Thanks again for sharing!

Since carbon filter is really soft and really easy to cut to size with a knife, I think any filter of size that is bigger than a fan hole, would work nicely :) I would look on ebay.

Hi noob question, where do you power the fan?

You drill a hole in enclosure part where your fan has cables. I didn't include the hole because different fans has different cable location.

Hi there..
I've got a bit of a problem with the filter. Even with the fan at 100%, I got no real air flow on the outlet of the filter..
Can someone that made the build share their "feeling" of flow out of the filter?

Hey! It's really hard to check air flow out of filter by hand. Best it's to measure pressure difference between enclosure and outside or with smoke stick at filter output. You need to understand that there is very laminar and slow flow after the filter and it's hard to detect, but it is there :)

Hey there, and thanks for the reply.. yesterday I did my first abs print using the filter assembly. Smell wise, the results are very satisfactory.. no burn plastic smell.. but I did notice that the filter doesn't really filter all the nasty stuff from printing with abs... my nose was still complaining from the fumes...
I've got a small child in the apartment, so I really want to make sure there is no bad fumes around.. in the end, i think I will remove the hepa filter and adapt an air hose on the outlet of the filter case to drive the fumes out of the window....

Do you got new active carbon filter? They "wear" out and you need to replace them once a while. I've managed to remove fumes 100%, but it's also airtight enclosure with good placement of intake holes.

Best regards,

Hey JK, first thanks for the design!

I made one and I am using it within my enclosure but I have the problem that the airflow through the HEPA filter is really low. That means the temperature inside is fast getting high. I am using a Scythe PWM...

Any idea?

How much % you drive your Scythe at? Enclosure temperature should be 40-45°.

Oh, I don't know, I connected it directly to the power supply. I think it's on max. speed.

Should I use a temp. sensor and a fan control? I don't know how to use my PI for that but perhaps there is an easier solution?

Hmmm... I don't think it's doing full power or you would report it's very very loud and it wants to fly :D I think it's going idle. Well I don't think you need a temp sensor and closed loop at all.

By my experience you can leave like it is now and it will work just fine (temp inside 40-45°C). If you need, you can buy fan controller via ebay (I bet there are a lot to choose from) and set it to like 15-30%.

Ok, great, thank you! First I will check the actual temp. and then I will buy a fan control!

I can't promise you it will fit, but it LOOKS like to be the same one!

Thank you, Sir! :)

Hello JK,

I cant find the right filter on, I found this one:

The dimensions are not exact the same, but could it be, that this is the right filter that I need? The dimensions are quite the same.

Could you please tell me where you got the white corner sides of your enclosure of your 3D Printer. It is a marvelous design and I would like to do the same for my Prusa I3 printer.

Do you use PLEXIGLASS 3mm thick with the 30X30 Aluminium profiles?

Yes! It's 3mm plexiglass + 4mm wooden plate with carbon fibre 3D decal.

Thanks! You can also see a bit more of finished enclosure on this video somewhere in the beginning:

I'm using 30x30 Aluminium profiles (rounded for front and top side), square for side and back.

Would it make sense to have a fan used as an air inlet for the 3D printer housing? I'm thinking that it would be important to have a regular inlet fan and then just have the outlet fan have these filters. Looking at doing this on a Flying Bear P902.

No! You don't want to have inlet fan, because you don't want to mix enclosure air. It will defeat the enclosure purpose. I have 2x inlet area (holes) of outlet fan area.

What do you mean by "2x inlet area holes of outlet fan area"?

To allow good airflow through the enclosure with minimal "winds" inside and to prevent overloading the outlet fan, the area of intake holes should be twice LARGER than area of outlet fan. So if you have 120mm diameter outlet fan -> you want to have 170mm inlet hole or even better 5 holes with 75mm diamater. :)

Understood! I was thinking about designing a system that would suck the air in and then blow it back into the printer enclosure after it's been filtered. What do you think of that?

I don't think that's such great idea. Exhaust fan is there to keep the enclosure temperature DOWN. That means you can set inside temperature with POWER setting of the fan. More speed = less interior temperature. If you need more temperature, you just turn the fan down. You don't need to recirculate and filter the air inside the enclosure, just the one that will escape the enclosure.

I need one of these- can someone print a brother one? My Prusa is not here yet and the build size is larger than my Qidi X-One can handle. Any takers? Id be happy to pay a reasonable price - I'm in Texas.

that looks awesome!!
can you tell me the dimention of the hepa filter, the link is not available any more

Hello! I've upgraded link with another seller. Dimension is 150x120x25 - you can also see it on the pictures (there are more pictures if you scroll). :) I think that's the most versatile and cheapest HEPA you can get basically anywhere. It fits to a lot of vacuum cleaners.

I really appreciate your effort man! Now i wont get any attacks from my family because of the smell. Thanks so much!

No problems man! I really like to share designs that works for me :)

JK, looks great. Do you have any idea how much flow you get through the filters? I always thought computer cooling fans were low static pressure devices, but apparently they generate enough pressure to pull through a HEPA filter? I really like the form factor of this, but it would be nice to estimate how many air changes/hour I would get in the enclosure.
Agree with the one comment about HEPA first, then carbon, then the fan... I thought about a coarser filter before the HEPA to make that last longer, but I suppose there's really not many large particles in the air. (brand new to 3D printing here... just thinking ahead to making an enclosure once I get mine built).

Hey! Thanks!

Well I have no idea and also I cannot determine that, because that's variable that depends on fan power (I have quite powerful fan and I run it only on 10-20%), how clogged the filters are, how large the intake is, how well is the door sealed etc. etc. I have no idea how much air does it pump out, but it does make affect on inside temperature, that means it pumps quite some air. You can also feel it. It does good job at maintaining enclosure temperature and it does actually remove printing smell. So it does the job and now it's been a while and it still works nicely with first filters. I believe this thing works and it doesn't need modification as far as I'm concerned.

Cool, good to hear!

I like your project, have some questions:

  1. Do you have a fully enclosure for your printer, or is open on the top (as I see in your pics)?
  2. Does the system you make have enough power to capture all smell/ABS particles if I put near my bed printer (but no enclosure)?
  3. What do you think to mod your project and capture the fumes/ABS particles trought a connected PVC pipe (10mm) directly near the extruder?

Thanks man


  1. I have full enclosure for my printer, that means all 6 walls around. In bottom I have 5 intake holes and on the back/top I have exhaust, which is this part.

  2. No, system won't work if there is no enclosure, it doesn't suck air that fast. Also I like to keep it running only on 15-25% speed, to keep it quiet, but still efficient. I regulate temperature via fan power. That means if internal temperature rises I speed up the fan.

  3. I don't think this will work. You also don't want any airflow around the nozzle when printing ABS, because of the warping problem. You want to extract air on the top of the enclosure and intake "missing" air from the bottom on at least 3 or more places. (to ensure there is no wind inside)

What size screws are used throughout this housing?

They are all M3, but the lenghts are different.
4x for front plate: M3x16 up to M3x20 will work.
8x for back plate: M3 Length = 6mm + panel thickness + (from 3mm up to 10mm).
(example if panel thickness is 3mm -> 6+3+3 = 12mm up to 6+3+10=19mm. So anything between M3x12 and M3x19 will work.
There are also 4 screws for FAN, but they depends on your fan and you need to figure it out. The hole is ment for M4 and it's 20mm deep, so your screw length is really up to you and you have a lot to choose from.

Best regards,

Great Idea and look to making something similar. However I do want to make a comment about the placement of the fan versus the filters.

First off, I would recommend that the fan be the last part exposed to the outside of the fan box. The reason why is that as dust particles accumulate, they will accumulate on the fan blades before the Hepa filter has a chance to remove them. This can cause premature wear on the fan unless it is opened up and cleaned up.

Next, I would recommend putting the carbon filter after the hepa filter. The reason for this is that the carbon filter is there to remove unwanted smells and you will not have to change out the carbon filter as often if it is after the Hepa filter has removed the majority of the particles being pulled out.

Hope this helps with future builds of the fan box.

This makes a lot of sense to me.
Why not HEPA first, then carbon, then fan?

Or as a workaround, is there a reason I shouldn't mount this "in reverse" (still as an exhaust of course)?

I believe you can mount it any direction. I just somehow think fan easier make pressure after the fan than in front of it. That's why I chose this order. It seems to work OK :)

I do want to chyme in here.
Not so much regarding a dust problem but more of a practical aspect.

The high static pressure fan can build (i think) a high pressure 'behind' the fan = into the direction on the airflow.
So what i would do is put the hepa filter last because this way the pressure would be higher and thus the flow through the filter would be higher too
Putting the hepa infront of the fan would cause the fan to 'suck' air through it, but i'm not sure it has a high 'negative' static pressure and can decrease the pressure of the area infront of the fan as good as creating a positive pressure behind it.

The pressure needed to go through the carbon filter is very low, so that would be fine.
My best bet for optimal flow would be carbon --> Fan --> HEPA.
Any way i do believe low flow is more then enough, if there is a pressure difference between the hepa filter inside and outside the enclosure, there will always be some flow over it (I=V/R) and a carbon filter even works better with a low flow then a high flow..

Thank you for explanation. This file actually has this order: Carbon --> Fan --> HEPA and I believe it's working nice as I have only changed Carbon filter once and it's still going without ABS smell. I'm really happy with this thing :)

Comments deleted.

Great build. Designing similar setup myself. How did you power the fans? Thanks!

Thanks! I'm powering the fan with 12V (printer power supply or other power supply) and controlling it with pwm signal + TIP120 transistor (complete fan shutdown).

When you say "It should fit on 3mm wall or thicker :) You need cutout for wall in size of hepa filter and 6 holes for screws. ", is it intended
that the screws for the exhaust cover will go through the wall this filter is mounted to and then go into the main body? I assembled it and the exhaust cover does not completely fit on to the hepa filter. I would guess that it is's because the frame of my filter is a little too thick.

And should it be 8 screws instead of six? The exhaust cover has 8 holes.

I hope I'll be able to add this filter to my enclosure this week. I'll try to post some pics!

I have added some photos - maybe it will be clearer how to put it together :).

Yes, 8 screws! :) I fixed that! If there is anything else, just ask! :)

PS: I'm using this for 1 week now... I'm doing 16h nonstop ABS printing and I'm all the time in the same room with the printer -> there is absolutely no smell!!! :) I'm amazed! :)


I was testing my filter system with the fan running on 100% and it is way too loud. How did you hook it up? Or do you run it on full speed? I'm torn if I should just step down the voltage or use a full blown controller.

What is your suggestion?

Yeah, on 100% this thing is too loud and it has also too much power. I use only 100% to cool down printer fast after last printing.

I use fan controller that I made (it also have relays, wifi module, 2x temp + 2x relative humidity sensor, RGB light control, fume sensor... ) I run this fan on 800RPM most of the time, that's 20% of PWM power.

Thanks again for your quick response :)

Sounds impressive. Thanks for the info. I am not really an electronics expert, so I won't be able to create this kind of features without helpful instructions. I think I'll order a simple fan controller, which will suffice for now.

Thanks again for your magnificent thing!!

Wow, your enclosure looks incredible!
Now I understand how it should look like and answers why I had a gab between the exaust cover and the hepa filter!
Thanks for the pictures!

Cool design,
just printed the main body. In the pictures it does not look as big as it really is (15h print)
I struggled a bit to find cheap active carbon filters in germany. I found out that there are filters for litter boxes for cats, they are cheap and active carbon filters :)

Did one of you already assemble this? How to do handle the wires of the fan?


Cheap carbon filters are from link that I've posted in Thing Description. Filters that you mention should work nicely aswell.

Yeah, I have this assembled and already working. So far so good - everything works exactly as it should... You just need to drill the hole to match your fan cables location in the main body.

If you want fan to spin 100% and you don't have any regulation, than you just hook red to +12V and black to GND. In case you have any controller available, than you can also hook yellow cable for RPM sensor and the remaining one for PWM controller. I will soon upload other things in my enclosure, also electronics that is needed to controll this fan in closed loop.

best regards,

Hi Jure,

thanks for your quick response.
I saw the ebay link but they were not in stock or would have taken weeks to ship, so I was looking for an alternative...
I will print the exhaust cover today, than I have all the parts and can assemble it. I was wondering how to lead the cables out of the main body, drilling a hole is an option, sure.

For now I will not add a controller, so the fan will run at 100%. Is the noice acceptable? Or do you recommend a controller for the scythe fan?

Regards and thanks for sharing your work!

Hey Manu,

Oh, ok :) Didn't realize we bought all the stock from this seller :P. I think other parts doesn't take this long to print. Yeah, different FANs has different cable out location and you can also turn FAN in 4 ways around to fit your cable-exit location to match your enclosing design... Just make a hole where cable exit FAN and that's it :).

Scythe PWM has 2400rpm or more at full throttle and it's very noisy. It's also very very powerful. I'm running it on 800rpm which is really silent right now and I have 40°C constant in the enclosing with 105°C bed and 240°C nozzle all the time...

I'll show how I made controller when I post other enclosure parts that I made...

best regards,

How's it working?

My hotend died so am waiting for the replacement to arrive before I can complete the print.

For now I can only say that print files are correct and everything fits as a glove together. I cannot confirm how much of the smell it reduces, but according to others it should be working nicely. :) I'll test it very soon.

where do you find the filters ?

ok nevermind :-)


Nice design. How effective do you find this in getting rid of any odours?

Also, is a 120mm fan sufficient to pull enough air through both filters?



Hey Simon!

Thanks! Thare are few similar items designed that people tested exhaustively with active carbon + HEPA filter. This design is similar, but it fits cheaper filters from ebay, not some rare ones, that are hard to obtain in EU and elsewhere. They however report in 100% smell removal. I cannot tell how accurate this is, because I'm still waiting for my fan.

120mm fan should be sufficient to pull air through both filters, but I would recommend "high pressure" version. I've found that Scythe Grand Flex PWM 120mm has as much as 10 times more static pressure as some other 120mm fans and it's not too expensive...

Best regards,

Carbon and HEPA filter ordered, along with a Scythe Grand Flex.

Looking forward to giving this a try. I better start printing as the main part in the design looks like it's going to take a while to print. :)

Hi Jure,

Thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

I found the same thing, being in the EU it was hard to try and source some of the filters mentioned into the other designs.

I have tracked down the HEPA filter you mentioned here on Ebay in the UK, so will be placing an order for that and an active carbon pad today.

I'm looking forward to getting an air filter solution in place as I have the 3D printer in my home office, where I spend the entire day. Although I only print in PLA there is often still a smell and also it'd be nice to have peace of mind that some of the potentially harmful particles are also trapped by the filter system.

I'll definitely check out the Scythe Grand Flex fan, sounds good. I was looking at perhaps getting the Noctua NF-F12 PWM ( which has decent static pressure in the Noctua range, though the Scythe Grand Flex certainly seems to have better static pressure and airflow.

Let's keep in touch so we can compare notes, and let me know when you get your fan.

All the best,


Great! I just got mail that my fan is also in the shop right now, so I'll have it tomorrow :)

My fan arrives tomorrow along with the carbon filter. The HEPA filter has shipped and should be here later this week, early next.

I'm going to kick off an overnight print-job for the main part of the enclosure. :)