Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

RC Hovercraft

by Petersripol Feb 14, 2017
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how much filament does this take to print

Hi Peter,
I have what might be a stupid question. Are the central motor assemblies/mounts for the lift nacelle and the rear thrust nacelle supposed to be different diameters? Awesome design by the way! :)

what size props is everyone using at 100% scaling?

Any 4 by 4.5 mini quad propeller will work great. You will have to use the "technique" used in Peter's build video to slightly shrink the length of each propeller.

How big is the hovercraft when assembled? Id like to print a small one so it doesnt take up too much space

It is about 40cm or 16inches

Great Design, I designed some props for it (madRCmodeling for design) easiy to build

Hi Peter,
Thanks for the great design! Was wondering if you could open up the ID of the ducts so a 4" prop fits without modification.


what people using for the skurt

wow this things fast and strong nocked one rudder of as pin fell out during flip as hit a jump / hole

Thanks for the fun project it runs great.

I've been watching you since flitetest you are doing a great job

I couldn't fit this on my PrintRite printer, so I scaled it to 80% in Slicr3. It weighs 380g (13.7oz) including battery and works really well. I used two Turnigy Multistar 1704-2300Kv motors with Gemfan 3035 props and two Gaui 10A speed controllers on seperate channels, a Frsky V8R4-II receiver and a 450mA 3s LiPo. Great design!

Peter, Have you considered adding a second counter-rotating lift motor? Once I have this thing hovering, it wants to rotate around the center of the lift motor like a helicopter with no tail rotor. Looks like I could cut three mils off another center hull section to make it match the length of the midskirt and drop in another lift nacelle and motor. I've got some of my test "flights" uploaded to my youtube: www.youtube.com/evanmjones

So far I've tried three different skirt materials: trash bag (works fine, but I messed up when I glued it on), rip-stop tent fly material (works great but asphalt ate it in testing) and some kind of heavy duty fabric of unknown origin (works great but a little stiff). I've tried two blade 4x4.5 props on 3s and 4s with 1450 kV motors, both worked great but 4s is, um, terrifying. It is crazy fast but since the only 4s batteries I have laying around are 5200mah, it's way out of balance and hard to control. There's a video of that up too.

I've swapped out the motors for 2250kv motors and three blade 4x4.5 props on 3s. I'm getting a mental amount of lift and thrust on 3s and will drop a 4s on it later today.

EDIT: I've taken a look at the STL's and have elected to stretch the mid-skirt to match the length of the mid hull instead of cutting length off the mid-hull. I'll knock something together and re-comment when it's complete. I'm thinking I can use the mixer in the Taranis to add or subtract power from one of the lift motors to add yaw control when I'm not moving forward. Might add to one and subtract from the other to maintain lift. It'll also give me a center platform to mount the battery midship instead of out over the nose, also giving me space to put FPV gear on the front.

This might be helpful with cutting props to fit: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921114

Bullnose Prop Cutter for Dremel (3-6in)

According to you is it possible to make a slightly smaller version with just three pieces (the body, the rudders and the skirt attachment) that can be print all in one? so you don't have to glue and allign anything, the body has already everything attached to it. Great design by the way and I love your videos on YouTube

What electronics did u use.

Where is everybody putting the battery? I've printed all the parts and I'm getting ready to start assembling. I'm thinking about making a slide catch for the cockpit. This way I can either use a single screw on the front or some type of pin design to hold it in place. I'm hoping that if this works well I'll put an FPV camera on it for some real fun.

how about spinning the cockpit over and making a lid

I have actually done that. I've got a 3S 2000mah lipo that fits quite nicely. My hold up lately is coming up with a way to improve on the skirt attachment. I like Peter's design but I don't want to rely on hot glue. If I take this somewhere I'd like to be able to change the skirt if needed and without a portable hot glue gun it'd bee difficult. Provided everything works well I'll eventually move to rip-stop nylon and make some spares. The other issue I'm having is a reusable means to attach the skirt to the hull (less the hot glue). I had a couple of ideas but they weren't working. I'm almost finished with my skirt clips and will post them to the same link I posted my modifications too. I increased the height of the cockpit and it doesn't look out of proportion. Hope to mount an FPV camera to it when it's done.


Thanks for the great design and idea.
I have printed almost whole kit but only last moment noticed that 5" props do not fit into naccel (both real and lift).
Any particular reason to be so?

I'd like to modify them so no need to cut props.
Find it hard for myself to cut/balance 3blade props.

Thank you.

If you've got a dremel, try this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921114

Bullnose Prop Cutter for Dremel (3-6in)

Peter! Working on printing parts to build one of these with the robotics team I coach and noticed a problem. Not sure if it's my settings or something in the rear nacelle, but I'm not getting a connection between the "ribs" holding up the motor in the middle and the ring. You can see it in the slicer photo I've attached. I fixed it with CA, not a problem, just thought you'd like to know.


Hey thanks Evan! I had some slight issues with that part creating and editing it, my slicer didint pick up the defect but I know where it originated! going to fix it right now!

Thanks for letting me know!

fixed now! let me know if issues still persist!

Also, looks like the walls in the center portion (the circle around the motor) aren't filling. I'm getting two walls very close together but without any top.

the problem you are having is from the slicer it dose that with thin walls.

Nope, you nailed it. I figured you'd know what happened, I've had similar issues with parts I've designed before. I'll record a video while the kids are building tomorrow afternoon, hopefully I can get all the parts done by then. Also, any reason not to put the lift motor on another channel? I'm thinking I'll put it on one of the pots on the side of the taranis. I was thinking rear nacelle throttle on the left stick and servo on the right.

You da man Peter! (And camera man)

I really liked your creations when you were with FliteTest. I like your creations even more sinds you are on your own!
Keep up the good work!