Small Lab Supply based on DP30V5A

by JoeyC, published

Small Lab Supply based on DP30V5A by JoeyC Feb 18, 2017

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

5547Views 579Downloads Found in Electronics


I wanted to build a small bench/lab supply for my electronics work and decided to try using the DP30V5A adjustable supply controller from Banggood.com:


This a great little unit and it costs less than $32. It does need an external power source, but I had an old 24V 5A supply handy.

You will also need:
40mmx10mm 24V fan (The fan voltage depends on your input supply voltage)
Sermos/Anderson power pole connector for input power.
Banana jacks for output connection.
Power switch
7 #2x3/8" screws
Some wire, etc..

Print Settings

Printer Brand:



MakerBot Replicator






.3mm 2 extra shells




Assemble the case

Use thick CA glue to assemble the parts of the case.

Glue the front panel to the base first, then the top.

I found that I had to sand the bottom of the front panel a bit to get it to sit flush at the top.

Getting a smooth finish

I decided to try for a very smooth finish on the case so I used Bondo auto body putty to fill in the gaps between the "noodles". (This works for PLA, but not with ABS.)

I did this two times and wet sanded after each applictaion had dried. First with 240 grit then 400 grit.

It worked better than I had hoped, after spray painting it looked great!

I used Krylon 2X spay paint.

After Bondo and sanding, but before painting.

After painting

Final assembly

I wired up the parts first and then installed them into the case.

First install the banana jacks.
Then install the power switch.
Then run the wires to the DP30V5A thru the opening and connect them. After that insert the unit into the front panel.

I mounted the fan to the back with 4-40 nuts and bolts.

I added a fuse block help on with a 6-32 bolt and nut. If you want to do that you will need to drill a hole for it.

The next thing was to mount the Sermos/Anderson power pole connector for the input power. It is hels in place by a #2x3/8" screw and some thick CA.

The final step is to use 6 #2x3/8 screws to hold the back panel on.

Ready to screw on the back panel

More from Electronics

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

what size Sermos/Anderson power pole connectors r u using pls and can u take a pic of the wiring pls

I used the 20A pins in the Sermos connectors.
There is a pic in the instructions showing some of the wiring. It's pretty straight forward.

The negative input goes from the sermos connector to the negative input on the supply and the negative input on the fan.

The positive input goes from the sermos to the switch, then the other side of the switch goes to the fuse, The other side of the fuse goes to the to the positive input on the supply, and the positive lead of the fan.

The output connections on the supply go to the banana jacks on the front.

Incredible, after seeing this little PSU modules online I had this exact same idea. Naturally, I come on Thingiverse and find that somebody has beat me to it! Looks absolutely outstanding, it's almost unnerving how close your design is to what I had in my head.

I may end up still designing my own just for the experience, but still wanted to congratulate you on such an excellent execution.

Thank you.

I'm looking at getting one of those units, and printing this shroud (or at least a front panel to make it cleaner to look at).

I'd want to power it with an old ATX power supply, that puts out 12V 9A max; do you know if its a problem to use a power supply that pushes more than 5A? I can't find anything saying what the input current can be. :\

The input current is based on the output power. There is no issue using a higher current supply. Bear in mind that with only 12V in the max output voltage will only be about 10.8V.

Yeah, it definitely isn't ideal, and I'm aware that I'd be better off using a PSU with more voltage supply. Its just laying around at the moment, and for most of my purposes, it might be more than enough. If not though, I can always get a bigger supply.

Just wanted to make sure it didn't sound like an issue to you, as I wasn't sure. Much appriciated!

I've actually got another supply lying around, which I use typically for a 2m amplifier for ham radio, but that is 13.8V @ 23A... didn't see much point wasting all that potential ampherage for such a small increase in voltage through the DP30V5A. :\

I got a nice switching supply I'm using with one of the higher power units from banggood.com. The were pretty cheap.

Comments deleted.

Thank you. I was very surprised how simple it was to get that look.