3D printer case with Lack tables (Ikea)

by Shoyun Feb 19, 2017
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is it possible to get the editable files for this, i love this design, i have it on my anet but would like to modify for my new machine also.

Can you explain how print the hinge? I see a only one part. How can it rotate if print all together?

Bonjour j’aurais voulu savoir à quoi sert la pièce en L? Cordialement dans l’attente d’une réponse


En utilisant 3 tables lack pour avoir une bonne hauteur, là pièce en L s'imprime x4 pour solidariser les tables 1 et 2 en partant du sol.
C'est une simple équerre miniature.


Bonjour j’aurais voulu savoir à quoi sert la pièce en L ? Cordialement dans l’attente d’une réponse .

doesnt fit the a8 thanks for not including dimensions

If u read description:

" 4 x acrylic glass (plexiglass) 4mm (0.157") thin 50cm x 44.5cm (19.68" x 17.52") "

If you think a little bit you will know the inside dimensions ! Or, another way, look at dimensions of lack table on Ikea. Or, last, ask ??

Thanks for designing this. I have just ordered some Lack tables and would be making this enclosure soon. I would like to modify the designs a little. If possible, can you please share the Fusion files.

Can i use it with a wanhao duplicator i3 plus size 400x410x420 mm?

Could you post the stp files for these parts?

To everyone who has commented that they don't want to cut the corners on the plexiglass: I completely agree, that's a crazy pain in the ass. I feel your pain.

Let me make an observation that should be pretty obvious, though: Instead of printing the top brackets, just print another set of the bottom brackets. Then the bottom front right can go on the top front left, the bottom front left can go on the top front right, and the back brackets are interchangeable. Then everything lines up, and you get a little bit of extra height.

In fact, it's so obvious that, looking at the Makes, a user by the name of Pboek already did it.

Finally finished everything, printed great. Didn't have a single re-print. Thanks for post this

Hi imawolfrawr, glad to read that ! Hope you will enjoy :)

Almost done printing the parts of this, just waiting on my plexiglass to be delivered. What size screws did you use for the plexiglass. Also, did you use just screws or are the bolts with nuts on the back side?

Hi imawolfrawr, screws for plexiglass ? Plexi isn't screwed :)

I see that lol, It was early I guess. I meant do you know what size screws for the plexiglass hinges. It looks like there are holes printed for the screws already. I could be wrong as I'm at work and it's printing at home so it will be waiting on me. I guess disregard my question :/

Np ^^

Maybe m3x20, i don't remember but i think so

Im printing your desing, so far so good, the hinges are really easy to print, even with a not so good calibrated anet a8, but... where do you supose to use the feets? I guess is on the lower table legs, but I don't really know.

Hi RegularDalaranCitizen, banjaxxed said all, you can put them or not, just for deco :)

they go on the bottom of the feet of the table colest to the floor, decorative...read below

question: the regulator you mentioned, is all that doing is turning on fans to create airflow if it gets too hot? Wouldnt this counter part of the point of an enclosure which is to block airflow?
I know 90% of my ABS printing issues with my tevo tarantula is because my apartment sits at about 77F and the printer is located near the hallway so people walk by it alot, causing drafts. Trying to decipher if its worth installing that air regulator

The enclosure is made for a lot of reasons, and temperature control is one of them. With the regulator you can keep a controlled temperature like 40°C (104°F) if you want to print ABS for example. Without regulator temp will vary.

And, if needed, you can disable the regulator easily :)

would this fit a crealiy cr 10? its 55cm high and 50x60 base

No sorry, this printer is too big !

i think i get it. i have to cut out the thikness of the printed parts on each side? right? expekt on the door part, because there is no halt for the outside of the plexi

Hi, yes ! Because of the top links, u need to cut a little piece on both sides. The door is ok, right.

Hi, i plan to build your design. i dont get it, why i have to cut the plexi at the top? an where i hafe to cut it? can you tell me how much tu cut? i will order the plexi precuttet and therefor i need to know where.

greets and thanks for sharing this design.


Sorry if this is a stupid question but what is the "feet" used for ?

Decoration :)

OK, i printed it with 32% infill, 0.8 wall. Anet A6 with 100mm/select and it's just great. Absolutely stable. Only some weird spots, which are repruducable with every part. Maybe slicer issue. But it's almost invisible. Thanks for your work!

I'm glad if you are happy & u enjoy :) ur welcome !

Yes, thanks.
I'll make the rear window as a door too. So I print another pair of hinges and cut the rear links. So I can also do some "stuff" behind the printer, just in case...

Does anyone know how much filament this uses??

It looks like a half spool... like 500g (I also had 1-2 bad prints, so I had to print it again.

Bonjour Eric,

je suis en phase de construction d'une enceinte à base de table Lack.
J'ai fait fabriquer des plaques en verre plutôt que des plaques en plexiglass.
J'aime beaucoup le design de tes charnières que j'aimerais pouvoir adapter afin de pouvoir les utiliser (adapter au perçage de mes plaques verre et ajouter un évidement axial pour renforcer la charnière car poids+++ du verre % plexi).
Pourrais-tu stp me fournir le fichier source de ces charnières afin d'être en mesure de les remixer ?
Je t'en remercie grandement.

Bonsoir Shoyun,

Félicitations pour ton boulot !
J'aimerais apporter quelques petite modifications au caisson que tu as créé, serait-il possible d'avoir les fichiers au format stp ?
Je ne manquerai pas de les partager avec toi.
Merci d'avance.

Need more details, how many of each object do we need to print?, what size magnets for the door?, no information on the "feet.stl" etc...

It explains itself. feet.stl is the feet for the table. don't know how to explain better than the file name...

Does the enclosure help reduce the noise of the printer?

Yes, a little :)

Can anyone please write down how much of each thing i need to print ? I'm not quite getting the count by the images.

It would be also for someone to track time for all printing parts. I'm using Anet's default configuration from USB with Cura & Merlin 1.16.
Hinge.stl x2, ~ 1H
Top_left_front_link.stl - x2, ~2.5
Top_back_links - x2, ~2.5

Can't find 4mm Plex any we're do you know we're I can get some online

To germans or europeans: I bought at this shop here. Around 10€ per glas. They cut it to your size, delivery time was 4-5 days.

Hi, i get mine in a local store, do'nt know where to find some online, sorry.

Is anyone using this design and stacking TWO printers?

I want to look for filament feeding solutions when you can't place it on top :D

Any advice?

OK! Final question (i hope lol!)

Best way to route the AC cable and such? Pics please?

Hi !

If you see the section "More pictures", on the fist pic you can see i drilled a hole in the table to let the cables pass though.
BTW, tks for the tip :)

I think I'm gonna pair it with this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225786


BTW, you're welcome :D

Ikea Lack Grommet

First - i love your design. Is it possible to make one for 5mm plexiglass. I know, its alot of work, but it would be great.

Thank you!!!

Unbelievable. Thank you very much.

yet another idea! What about a drill guide for the hinges so we can make a perfect drill and ease the assembly of these? :) Very nice you placed them right where the corners finish! ;)

Also can you elaborate on how did you finish the door on the other side? I mean, I see magnets to close the door? Did you glue metal parts or are they 2 magnets togheter or...?


Hi bolsoncerrado !

As there is only two hinges, you can place them where you want, no problem, it's really easy like that !
For my box i placed them as i wanted by eye and yes, it's just where the corners finish ^^

For the door panel, i drilled 4 holes, 2 on door, 2 on corners and i glued 4 tiny neodym magnets (watch for poles). No difficulties too here :)

So magnet vs magnet? hummm which glue did u use? epoxy?

Yes !

I used super glue (Cyano Acrylate).

Wow I started assembling the whole thing and what looked like the best fit ever, turned a nightmare of dremeling the upper corners of every plexiglass panel :(

Isnt there any workaround to this? This step brings so much inconsistency in terms of accuracy of the whole thing once mounted.... :'(

A nightmare ? Lol, don't you think it's too much ? :D

You just have to cut plexi with a handsaw / jigsaw or metal saw, it take 5 min and works like a charm ^^

If you make good measurement before cutting, you can be as accurate as the rest of the box. And even if you don't make perfect cuts, you won't notice once finished.

No workaround sorry.

BTW, does the door panel need to be cut too?

hahaha yeah im learning the hard way! :P

Will take pics once finished :D

Can I make another request? :D
Can I have the door pommel WITHOUT the 3D text? :)

No ! I'm so proud of my 3D door pommel !!

Ok, ok, here it is :)

Thanks so much!

Hi Shoyun,

I have some issues when assembling your design. During assembly, I noticed that the distance between the table leg is only 44.5cm. Since each top link has thickness of roughly 4.6mm and I am unable to fit the top links in the current design. Shouldn't the plexi glass thickness be 42-43cm instead?

Hi erichousetkc

You just have to cut the plexi where the top link goes (handsaw or jigsaw) :)

Dear Shoyun,

Thanks for sharing this awesome design!

Would it be possible to provide a specific version for 3mm panels of the affected pieces please? ;)


Dear bolsoncerrado,
Thanks to you !

For sure ! I will make you that tomorrow if i found some time :)

OH! Many thanks for that!

Eagerly waiting.... :)

Hi bolsoncerrado !

Here is the 3mm version !

It should be all ok, tell me if you have a problem.
Have a good day ;)

Many thanks Shoyun!

How plywood can fit perfectly inside top links. Because of Legs flat and others not, they have extension outside few mm and it is not fitting if I push plywood in that line. it is hitting that extension. I'm not sure if I'm doing wrong.

I don't unsderstand well what's your problem sorry :/

for top links should I cut plywood corner little bit? or there is another trick?

Oh i see, you put plywood instead of plexiglass for panels. Yes there is a little bit to cut for a perfect fit !

Hi there
Can you explain this sentence that you stated as I am a bit lost what it means
Note: The L_shape.stl is to join the first table from floor and the second together. Rods of plastic are here to center the L without mesuring, cut them when you found their good place :)

Where does this L bracket sit because all of the braces made screw to the top of the first table and the legs of the second table. What are the Rods of plastic you are on about also?

Hi mpfcole !

The L_shape are here to join tables without the plastic legs. If you put 3 tables like me the L_shapes will join the base table to the middle table to secure them so they won't move. The plastic rods just help centering them before screwing.

Here is a picture !

Hope it's clear now, feel free to tell me if not :)

Can anyone help explain how the bottom left hinge attaches to the lower left leg link part? The link part has no screw holes for the hinge, do we just drill them?

Hi Projectilefish

Yes you just have to make two small holes with a drill where you want to attach hinge, nothing difficult :)

And if you wanted the 2mm plexiglass version, it's here !

Ah perfect thanks! I deleted the 2mm comment as I thought i'd just edit the stl files manually, but this is much better! Thanks again!

You're welcome !

Comments deleted.

So I built 5 of these but am not going to be making it enclosed. If anyone is interested in the acrylic for their let me know. I have 5 sets of four. $35 a set of 4 plus shipping. josh@sbtnewportnews.com if you are interested. I will post pictures of what i have soon!

What's better in this case? Pla or abs?
Abs shrinkage could mess up the dimensions

PLA is perfect, ABS i do'nt know as i only print PLA :)
Maybe some people here can answer you better !

Ok thank you. I prefer pla as well but I got a shitload ABS from a wrong order haha. I can use this to print all the parts haha

Hi Shoyun,

I have the W1209 but im unsure about the correct way to wire it up here in the UK. I have two 120mm Fan's to use.

Do you have a wiring diagram, a photo would be ok if not.

Also Where is a good place to put the temperature probe withing the LACK table Case for a good reading.

For the Anet A8 printer.

Hi DanUK, i answered on the W1209 page where you asked the same question ;)

w1209 Case
by Shoyun

I just ordered materials to make 5 of these. Yes the Zortrax do have their own doors but having them in these will look much better. I have a storefront and can make our own acrylic cuts so this works out perfectly.

May I know where did u purchase the ICE filament u have there?

Hi auggie246, sure, i bought it from Amazon.fr :)

Has anyone tried to fit a Zortrax printer in it?

Between feet you have 44.5cm (17.52") wide and for the height you have 50cm (19.68").

A M200 should fit without problem but not a M300 if i look for specifications.

M200: with spool 345 x 430 x 430mm [13.6 x 17 x 17in]
M300: with spool 490 x 560 x 590mm [19.3 x 22 x 23.2in]

Anyway, Zortrax printers have itheir own enclosure no ?

Thanks for this awesome design! Just ordered some plexiglass (expensive to buy in my town) and about to print the pieces. Quite excited for this.

We're did you order yours from?

How much did you pay for the 4 pieces out of curiosity?

Thanks for your kind comment, hope you will enjoy making this ! If you have any questions while building fell free to ask !

Please share pics once finished :)

I got my plexi, now waiting for this to print lol. I am printing both front bottom pieces together. So far Octoprint says it will take 21 hours, 15 hours down and 6 to go.... But it seems to be just going up in time. In the beginning it estimated 12 hours... Lawl. I feel like this will never be finished.

Lol it's a big print at once ^^
Hope you will love result :)

Almost done! In your own opinion, should I mount the electronics on the outside of the enclosure or leave them inside?

Cool :)

I mounted the PSU under the table where printer stand as it become quite hot, and the rest (voltmeter, lights, fans and thermostat) inside.

So you even leave the controller board and lcd screen inside? Wont they get too hot?

Yes, i leaved screen and board inside. I don't have any problem of temperature, the printer doesn't make much heat ! I think that the led bars i installed produce more heat. I should have put less bars, i have 4 x 8W of led, and that's really too much lol, it's like sun inside ^^

And as i put a PC fan (120mm) on the bottom (just under the board) and one on the top of the table, running in the same way, the air flow is perfect. The thermostat power the fans only if needed moreover.

Doesn't the fans defeat the purpose of the enclosure? From my understanding the point of the enclosure was to ensure a stable temperature for the prints to bask in.

Yes, you are right, the box is for a stable temperature. This is why there is fans for cooling if temp goes too high, and a thermostat to regulate fans.

In a cold room for example you could also had a heating resistance to ensure the temp could not get lower than what you specified.

Ah, I see. How do I know what temperature to keep my enclosure at if I were to do this setup?

To avoid warping, you should never get lower than 20° celcius, and to prevent board and printer in general, i think we could stay under 35°C.

I put my thermostat at 26°C and for me it's perfect :)

Thank you for your help. So excited to get this together.

You are welcome :) i wait your pictures !

Hey, I know I have been asking a lot of questions, but I am new to all this DIY stuff. What type/length of screws did you use? I am concerned that I will damage the plexiglass and the hollow lack table.

I used M3 screws, certainly 10mm or 16mm. To avoid damaging plexi drill a clean hole Ø3 and use a washer on screw to distribute force and not crack it :)

And to mount the PLA feets with table, i used wood screws, like Ø2.5mm or Ø3mm and 15-20mm lenght.

Hey Shoyun, do you got any ideas on how I can do the top part without cutting it? I don't have the tools for cutting plexi at this time. I am almost finished, I just need to figure this part out and reprint the back bottom pieces (bad prints).

Hi Jason, sorry but you can't finish the box without cutting little part of plexi, it won't fit otherwise. However to cut plexi there is a lot of tools you can use, like a jigsaw, hacksaw, ...

Okay, thank you.

Please show me a picture of where L_shape.stl goes.

Thank you, you are very kind.

You're welcome :)

Thanks for this design, have just finished building mine. Word of warning, don't drop the sheet of polycarbonate on your big toe when your not wearing shoes :)

Thanks for your comment :)

Wow, it should have hurt a lot :/ hope you are fine !

Hello there and thank you for this great part and the nice pictures.
Could you elaborate how much height is added to the 45cm table because of those extenders? Are they 5 or 10cm tall? Thank you kindly.

Hi Fleder and thanks for your kind comment !

Feets are 40cm height and extenders are 10cm height, so 50cm height plexiglass is perfect :)

Thank you very much for your quick reply. I will try to do this this weekend and report back with pictures.

Thanks a lot again for this great and well made thingi! Looking forward to see more from you.

Hope you will enjoy making this ! Feel free to ask if i can help you !

Thanks again, i'm impatient to see your pics ;)

So i have printed all parts. But the Plexiglas in 50cm x 44.5cm dont work withe the Top Links. How you make it?
Did you cut of the Corners on Top Side from Plexiglass?

Hi Twister01, yes you have to cut a little part of plexi in the corner :)

Hello, how did you do to assemble the panels with the tables? Mine do not assemble because they are too wide at the top and bottom pieces.

Hi Lucas, didn't had any problems like that, but maybe I don't understand your problem, can you explain me better or take a shot?

Does this really need 50% infill on the huge pieces between the two tables?

Tables are not really heavy so maybe you can lower the infill. I wanted a durable material so... :)

Can i print in PLA or should it be in ABS?

I printed mine in PLA, no problem so far :)

How are the hinges attached to the plexiglass?

With 2 screws. See the "More pictures :)" section on thing details ;)

I see it now. I think I'm going to skip drilling holes in the acetate and use epoxy putty. I could only get 2mm acrylic around here, so I'm taking those and then shimming them with small triangles of 2mm acrylic to push it tight against the slots. Should still work. I also have 4 sheets of acrylic that are just a hair too small, so I may print a wide slot for those to use on the second story of the build.

Ok, should work yes, have a good construction !

This may be a stupid question, but are those M3 or M4 hex screws, and how long are they?

M3 10mm if i remember well !

Going to give this a try! I have an Anet A8 now and a Phrozen Make resin printer coming in July. Thinking about going 3 tables, but the whole thing will sit on a heavy base of MDF that sits on yet another table! going tall!

Nice ! Send some pics when done ^^

Congratulations for the project is fantastic.
What is the recommended temperature to have inside the box?

Thanks JMCG !
I like to have around 20-24°C (68-75.2°F) when i print :)

I used 100mm/s with 0.2 layer for a feet. Infill 30%.
Simplify3D as a slicer say me that total estimated time was 3h and 20min (more or less),but I printed in 8 hours and half :/
Another one: same situation!
Printer: Anet A8

Hi danybr !
I remember it took 5h more or less for me for each feet at 0.2mm, 90mm/s and 50% infill.
There is tons of other settings that can affect print time like number of perimeters etc... Don't know what to answer, sorry !
It's weird that S3D say 3h20 and it take 8h30...

S3D is pretty accurate for me :/

What other settings are you doing? S3D is estimating around 13 hours just for the front left foot.

13h it's huge lol !

I don't really remember but i always use 4 perimeters, 3 layers for base and top. Print speed 90mm/s, move speed 100mm/s and that's it.

Yeah, I switched it to .3 and that helped a bunch, moved it down to 8h.

Good work ... but can you post some pictures from the inside at hinge level ? I'm curious bout how you fix hinges

Hi Tassin76,
Thanks !
I added a custom section with more pictures, just scroll down the main page :)

Thanks for pictures.

I saw some improvements on your box: may be a fan on top and a small black switch on the front of your box. Could you explain ?

I have an other question: is it required to install soundproofing or vibration damping or sound is sufficiently stifled by the box ?

You are welcome.

There is 2 fans, one on top one at bottom of the table for air flow.
The switch command the led lights.
The front blue box is a W1209 thermostat for fans.
The rear red lcd is the PSU voltmeter.
Hidden below table an other W1209 regulate the PSU fan.

I didn't installed soundproofing or vibration damping, my 3D printer has silicon pads yet and it's enough for me :)

Any ideas as to why it will take me 50+hours to print just the risers that go in between the 2 tables?

Your settings should be wrong, it take 7h per feet usually

Do you have a way for me to see your settings that you used?I turn it up to 90mm/s and quality is crap

I used 0.2mm 90mm/s and it was fine for me :)

Don't get me wrong I love the whole thing. Just gotta get my settings right for my printer

No problem man, i understand ! I know that some people printed even in 0.3mm.

I printed mine at 0.3 with 3 perimeter walls and 50% infill. They took around 7 hours per extension and they are rock solid.

Thanks for your feedback PigStix, it's good to know that ! :)

Hello, thank you very much for your design. It's really clean.
I bought two tables and intends to use your parts. On the other hand I would liked to integrate 3 doors. Would it be possible for you to send me the STEP formats of the junction parts, or maybe you would be able to review the "Right front" and "Top right front" to have only one triangle wing on both side?
I tried the hinge and it works very well ! Thanks !

Hi, thanks Mariesange !

I made files with Fusion360 i can't export them to STEP :/
Anyways, i made the modifications you wanted i think: http://3d.shoyun.eu/_autre/3Doors.rar

Let me know if it's what you needed :)

Thank you so much, It's exactly what I need !
I will share the final result soon.
Bonne soirée ;)

Glad to hear that and i will love to see the result ! Bonne soirée aussi ;)

Hi, awesome design. Real quick. Do you have any pictures of where the L shaped piece connects? I don't see it in any of the photos.

Hi rufflez, thanks !

Here is a picture of the L shape (used to attach the tables together): 3d.shoyun.eu/_autre/ls.jpg

Oh, so only if we use 3 tables. Got it. Thanks. I am using 3 tables, wasn't sure if I was going to enclose both layers. I picked up some plexiglass today and the cost of it ensured I was only doing the top for now. The bottom can come if I get a second printer in the future.

How much did you pay for the 4 pieces of plexi and what store did you get them from?

Bought 1 large sheet big enough for all 4 pieces and cut myself with a circular saw. I wish I got it professionally cut, but Home Depot where I bought it didn't offer that. It was around $70 for plexi half the width recommended. If I were to do it again, I'd get the right size plexi. This stuff is too thin and bend too much.

I'm thinking of purchasing it from these people here https://goo.gl/X5KKDp
Click "cut-to-size sheets" and it lets you just type in your measurements. Unfortunately I don't see the thickness that Shoyun recommended. Says its 40 dollars for the 4 pieces though.

4 x acrylic glass (plexiglass) 4mm (0.157") thin 50cm x 44.5cm (19.68" x 17.52")

So mine were 2mm or so. I couldn't get the 4mm locally. I didn't edit the files either so there is 2mm of play which rattles.

Yeah, for 3 tables :)

I'm loving the clean look of this design, and I'm looking at doing this for a slightly smaller printer so I don't need the height of the bottom sections. However, I can't figure out how the top links work, there doesn't seem to be any way to attach them ! Would it be possible to get some more pictures of the top links ?

Thanks :) !

Hi Andrew !

Thanks ! The height of the bottom section is to get more space and to use 50cm height plexiglass without having to cut it twice.
But sure, if you want a smaller box, no problem.

Pictures of top links here: 3d.shoyun.eu/app/tl1.jpg & 3d.shoyun.eu/app/tl2.jpg

Maybe you wanted to use top links to attach the bottom too, it's not possible as they only have 2 screws in the top table and they are inverted. They are made to hold plexiglass only but i can modify them for you to fit as bottom section.

If you prefer custom bottom sections as these here, i can do them for you, just let me know what you want :)

Ps: Sorry, i didn't see your message before !

No problem at all ! Thanks for the response. I see how the top brackets work now, thank you. I went with a slightly different design in the end but appreciate the help !

Two questions:

  1. What is the L_shape.stl part used for?
  2. do you remember how many of what size screw and how many of both wood screws and hex screws?

Hi EricLoethen

  1. You missed the note: The L_shape.stl is to join the first table from floor and the second together. Rods of plastic are here to center the L without mesuring, cut them when you found their good place :)

  2. I think i needed something like 32 small wood screws, like ø2.5 (ø3mm may fit maybe) x 20 or 25mm and 5 hex screws ø3 x 10mm

Hi, you have done an awesome work, but I have an issue with screw's holes, it's weak.
What material did you use ?
Thank you!

Hi and thanks Levmed !

What do you exactly means by weak about screw's holes ?
I printed all pieces in PLA and no problem so far :/

I tell you that cause when I go to screw the uppor holes, these ones broken in two pieces.
What I have to change in the printer settings ?
I used a resulution of 0.3mm and an infill of 10% to make the piece faster

Your infill is too low yes, i used 0.2mm for layer and 50%+ infill (if i remember well) as thoses parts need strengh.
I think you just have to change infill and it will be ok. Really, i didn't had any problem. Also remember it's plastic and don't tight too much the screws :)

Thank you!! How many hours you spent to print all the project ?

I didn't count but for each back and front link it's about 5h at 90mm/s speed, 0.2mm layer and 50% infill.
So it should be 20h for the 4, and maybe 10h for the top links and door knob. 30h~ total print time.

Nice design, great minds think alike. Take a look at my take on a similar design:

Yet Another Ikea Lack Enclosure (Wanhao Duplicator Plus)
by Mframe

Nice design too !