The Mina Violin (Electric)

by Jaxelsson Feb 20, 2017
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what is the nomenclature and reference for this violin thank you

Since the links to the 3rd party parts change regularly, it is impossible for me to keep an updated list of them. You should be able to find links and references to them in the descriptions (see Post-Processing Notes of the Mina Violin) and comments of all my violins if you scan through them. It's a common question.

  1. The electronics are a fairly standardized set that I recall seeing 2 slightly different workable versions of. One whose battery cover sticks out a bit and one that doesn't. The pickup is included in this set.
  2. The tuners, you'll need a standard electric guitar set of 3 Left and 3 Right tuners. See photos for examples of what is known to work.
  3. The bridge is a standard wood violin bridge filed to have flat feet. Like any violin you will need to shape it to lower the string action (height above fingerboard) to a playable height. Otherwise it will be panful.
  4. This particular design is made to accommodate most standard violin Chin Rests and Shoulder Rests. Whatever works for you.
  5. Strings, well those don't have to be the fancy expensive kind and can be found anywhere.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have more specific questions and best of luck with everything. It's a fun project.

Sent you a message.

Will try. many thanx

Which filament did you use?

PLA because I personally prefer the rigidity (and it has less fumes than ABS). Though ABS could have its own benefits. As for brands I’ve been using MakerGeeks PLA, but I’ve seen people use pretty much any brand of PLA and ABS. Would recommend looking at the Makes sections of my violins and others to see what everyone has played with.

Thanx. But I like your colors. Can you tell me the type of the blue and the white?

Gotcha. Well, filaments do cycle and vary over time, so I don’t know for sure if the exact ones would be available now. That said, the white was actually natural/clear while the blue was called crystal blue (also a clear type filament). The blue actually came out like that, more due to printing inconsistencies than anything else. Have not been able to replicate that exact outcome since getting the printer better dialed in. At the same time, a lot of these “crystal”, pearl, clear or special filaments have some really cool surprises.

Great violin, the only true downside is that when we printed it the openings for the nuts were a tad bit too small, but they were easily fixable. Got our parts from a local Parkrose Hardware. 10/10 would recommend.

Thanks. I’ve noticed that in some prints the openings for the nuts are just a little too snug. Have fixed it in my later designs. Glad you liked it. Hard to get everything just right in 3D printing.

Do you have a specific guitar tuner you recommend?

No specific recommendations, but if you scroll through the comments on all my violins you should see some links to give you an idea.

ok awesome thank you. where did you get your threaded rod? just wondering if i have to order it online or if you can find it anywhere.

Definitely a Home Depot / Lowe’s / Ace Hardware type thing.

I ordered 8mm carbon fiber rod from eBay. Shipping from China took 3 weeks, cost was around $8, weight was about 70% less than threaded rod.

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I really like this design, and I have got the files with a view to printing my own electric violin. As I am left-handed, I wondered if this design is handed, or symmetrical? Obviously I'd have to put the strings on in reverse order, but looking at the files, it looks like the holes for the strings are all the same size? I'm just wondering if I need to mirror the neck parts to allow the pick-up wiring to come out properly for holding the violin left-handed?
Your advice would be most appreciated,
I already printed an acoustic violin,
and it came out really well, printing the neck at .1 layer resolution on my CR-10 mini, came out really smooth :-) I had to mirror that one, as the holes for the strings, and the built in bridge needed that.

I can’t think of any part of these that wouldn’t work as is for left handed stringing. Obviously the chin rest would need to be left handed. And as long as you have a standard lefty shoulder rest you should be golden. Every part is perfectly symmetrical except of course the holes for the tuners. This includes my 5 string version as well. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your Make photos!

Great, thanks! I'll start the print tonight :-) I'll just mirror the neck part 3, and the chinrest. I already made a LH chinrest for my acoustic violin by mirroring one I d/led from Thingiverse :-) Hopefully have pictures of mine in a week,

I've got all the parts printed now, (except the Left Handed chin rest) just waiting for the nuts and bolts to arrive, and the pre-amp. I'm now trying to decide whether to use M8 screwed rod or 8mm C/F tube as the stiffening rod.

I ordered cf rod, too tight to fit as printed. Drilled out each neck section a couple thou under 8mm, rod fitted snugly after very light tap in to seat with a very small joint makers hammer. The fit and strength are awesome.

Carbon fiber will of course be lighter. But if you have trouble getting it to fit due to plastic shrinkage (and you can’t file it out) the threaded rod will screw itself in. :-)

Thanks, I'll try the C/F tube first, and if it doesn't fit, I'll use the threaded rod - I have both, so it will be easy to do :-)

Question, which piece does the chin rest attach to? Great design by the way!

As CobaltGriffon says,it mounts to the bottom oval area. Just like an acoustic violin. In fact most acoustic chin rest designs should work with this design, as long as they are center mounted. Glad you like it!

The chin rest clamps to the raised rounded bit at the bottom were the tuning peg panel bolts on, take a look at the makes photos for examples

Can you make a build video on youtube?

where did you get the parts that you didn't 3D print? can you provide a link?

Holy smokes this is beautiful!! Nice work, I'm excited to make one.


Are the parts laid out in the STL files as you printed them? Thanks!

Not necessarily. You’ll have to rotate them for your particular printer and approach.

Need a bit of help for this next one--

My eBay violin pickup arrived from China (same one as linked) but the pickup wires were not soldered onto the board. Neither did it have a soldering diagram included. Where on the board do I solder the wires to?

Hmm, sadly you're not the first person to ask me this question. The pickups I've been ordering (Silent EQ brand) have a plug on the pickup (which has to be temporarily removed for threading through and reattached correctly), so I can't directly assist. Small differences in versions apparently. I have reached out to someone who used the same one you have. Let's hope they have an answer for you. (I do believe they connect in the top corner, but which wire is in vs out, I can't tell remotely.)

I figured it out for future makers that have this problem. At the very corner of the circuit board on the preamp, there are two spots that are faintly marked + and -

The pickup wire that is insulated is the + and the bare one is - obviously.

I have two questions,

1) I'm going to print both the Mina and the Annelise. While I'm doing that, I want to buy all the parts for them. What is the purpose of the "chinrest bracket"? It looks like there is already a 3D printed chinrest?

2) I found these tuners that have one screw mounting hole. However, hole is straight above the gears and not off to the side like the ones you've previously linked. Would this work?


1) The bracket is the clamp mechanism for the optional chin rest. You don’t “need” to print a chin rest, but if you want one you can either print it or use a standard one.
2) For those tuners to work you would have to edit the STL’s to account for the centered screw hole. Easier to use the more historically common corner type, in my opinion.

I’d recommend printing one violin first and figuring out a) how you like it and the parts you buy, b) the right infill/walls etc for your plastic type as it can get heavy and c) how you’ll want to improve the next one. From carbon fiber rods to the electronics, there are so many customizable aspects you’ll enjoy playing with and adjusting. I’m also working on another one that will be mostly interchangeable with these but will have 5 strings and lots of conduits to play with for other electronics. So many ideas. :-). Have fun and feel free to share your results and discoveries.

Thank you, you awesome human being! God bless you!

I'm planning to do the carbon rods; that is a great idea about the print settings and fine tuning the second one after having experience with the first.

I will go with the tuners with the corner holes. Where did you buy the M3 Brass Wood Screw Inserts? I can't find any in M3 size.

eBay, shipped from China is where I found them, but.......the tuning machines I bought had very small screw holes that M3 screws couldn't fit through. Rather than trying to drill out those holes and risk splitting the (probably) cast zinc body, I simply filled in those holes on the back of the neck with epoxy then screwed the small phillips screws that came with the tuners into the epoxy. Ended up plenty strong and clean.

I am currently assembling my violin and the carbon fiber tube works really well

Baymaxums, good to hear. Out of curiosity (as I’m about to order one) are you using a hollow tube or a rod? I’ve been wondering if the hollow tube option is strong enough. I assume you went with 8mm?

tube and it is plenty strong

Got my tubes. A little bit bendy, but not much. Mine appear to be 8.11mm so they don’t quite fit in the 8mm space. Sigh. Enlarging my spacing on this new violin just a little bit to accommodate.

That is great to hear! Ordering one now.

You’re welcome. I got my inserts at Ace Hardware, but if you have trouble finding them I’m sure there are countless other combinations of nuts (and maybe glue) to make it work.

I have found them on McMaster! :)

M4 x 50mm - 1pcs (philips or flat head)
M4 x 40mm - 2pcs (philips or flat head)

What are these longer screw for? Can they be socket cap heads?

Yes they can all be socket cap screws. I did use socket caps successfully on one of my violins. Might even be easier. I can’t recall why I used philips on the first one (probably that I didn’t find any), but here are photos of where those long screws go. You’re good with socket caps.

This violin is beautiful, I am being printed (black and white).
I would like to customize it later: would it be possible to get the native files?
Which software did you work with?
Sorry for my rough english and thank you Google translation

I have a question about the 'Violin Pickup and Preamp'
I have been trying to make an electric violin for the past two weeks, and sadly I never get the details needed to make one.
So why I was wondering if you can:
1) Send the link of these devices from Ebay or any equivalent website.
2) Say more details about them (i.e how to set them up and what they are attached to)
3) Take a picture on where they are located on this violin.

I don’t have time at the moment, but if you read up on all the comments on both my violins you should find other people who have posted/requested links and advice on the electronics. Let me know if you have further questions after that.

Hi, This looks gorgeous! is there any change you could reslice it for a 500mm build platform? (A CR-10 S5?) I hope that fewer pieces will both make it look and sound better.

Upon your request, I was able to create a single piece version of the upper and middle neck that would fit your printer. The piece however is for my other violin, the Annelise Violin, but the parts are interchangeable with this one. The part is called "neck_combined-steel-no-supports.stl" and can be found under the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285829 . I hope that works for you.

The Annelise Violin (Electric)

Thank you! My intention, So you know, is to print the neck in transparent blue PETG, and the remaining parts in GitDark blue PLA. I might print a cheek rest in the transparent blue as well.

Again, thank you.

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Looks like the printer you are referring to is 500mm cubed. In trying to figure out what parts you might want joined, I’m guessing it’s the neck you’re most interested in. (The join at the fingerboard always bugged me).
With that in mind, the top 2 pieces (where the fingerboard is) are around 390mm long combined. However, the 3 neck pieces together might be a little tight and would require some diagonal measuring. Total size is around 540mm x 50mm.
The only thing I would have to figure out is if I can make all the other screwholes work with either design.

Hey people, i printed this one, but i am wondering about the size, should i buy accessories comptaible with 3/4 or 4/4? Thanks.

This is definitely a full size (4/4) violin. I have pondered making a smaller scale for my youngest, but have not yet had time.

Thank you for your answer !

Seems great!

I've a friend who plays a lot of acoustic violin, and I planned to offer her something like that for her birthday..
Unfortunately, I'm an idiot about violin, I searched for the price of each part, and what were they, and could find them all but the tuners. I found them, but I'm not sure if these are the good or nah, can you help me ? Is these ones good? https://www.ebay.com/itm/6R-Inline-Vintage-Tuning-Pegs-Tuners-Machine-Heads-For-Fender-Strat-Guitar/112515355856?hash=item1a327014d0:g:FlEAAOSwVGhZgJq9

So here is a link to the 3L/3R style pegs. One other thing to note is that there is only one small screw hole on the back for each peg like these have. This is the smaller screw that keeps them from rotating with the pressure. So as long as you find pegs that are 3L/3R and have the one hole each you should be good. Looking forward to seeing your Make! Let me know if you need any other advice.


Hey !
Thanks for everything, it is almost finally done after receiving every pieces. I will post a pic afterward. I just have an issue with the pickup. The micro was a mini-jack when the hole is for a jack ; how do I do ? Do I need to find an adapter ?

Glad you found all the other parts. As for tuners, I don’t believe these will work since they are 6 of the same side. Fender style guitars more often are 6 Right (or Left), while Gibson styles are 3 Right / 3 Left. You will need 2 of each. I don’t believe there is a way to make 4 of the same work without modifying the mounts for them. Let me see if I can find an example for you.

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short update i have now all parts printed in Carbon. The Violin has a weight of 560gr.
But i have still some possibilities to reduce the weight due the fact it was completely printed
with 50% honeycomb infill, i had some concerns about the stiffness with less infill.

My Advice recommendation if you wanna print it, with Carbon

  • 8 Top Layer
  • 8 Bottom Layer
  • honeycomb infill
  • infill 35%
  • every 5 Layers a solid Layer
  • print resolution 100 mic or if possible 50mic

surface smoothing

in my first try i used XTC-3D which is not recommendable price to high and it's not possible to primer the parts very thin.
i use now a 2k epoxy resin L, which is very nice because it has a very thin viscosity, it is possible to primer the parts very thin
after 24 h of hardening. You can sand the parts with 400,600,800 and finally with 1200 wet sandpaper.
i have repeated this now for 3x times (primer, drying sanding).
a nice effect is the carbon is absorbing the epoxy the first and second time due to capillary actiion effects

Great info! Thank you. Looking forward to seeing your final product!


Thanks for the design. We are building one now! We printed the bridge in clear. I thought it would be cool to rig up some LED lights to run through the bridge or a channel along the back somehow. Any ideas?

Great. Yes, I’ve been pondering doing the same. But I’ve got so many ideas to work on. :-) When you say bridge, do you really mean bridge or do you mean the lower neck? Definitely could be cool to light a clear bridge as well, but it’s all in the LED setup you go with and what effect you’re going for. My curiosity has been to figure out how to maybe pull a NeoPixel LED strip through the neck but that will take some coding... :-). Curious to see what you come up with.

Oops, yes, I meant the neck. I was thinking either a channel or maybe a just a simple strip holder that would attach to the back of the violin. I just finished printing out all of the parts. I showed them to a luthier friend and he thought it was really cool. He really liked the design and was very impressed! He figured it should work well.


i have start printing the violine. I have splitted the print in to parts

  1. Part printed with ColorFabb XT-CF20, Layer Height 100 μm, 50 % honey-comb Infill

    • body_lower_bout_with_tribal2.stl
    • body_upper_bout_with_tribal.stl
    • neck_part2_steel_rafter2.stl
    • violin_neck_part3.STL
  2. Part printed with ColorFabb XT, Layer Height 50 μm, 50 % honey-comb Infill
    • body_waist_basic.stl
    • violin_neck_part1.stl
    • chin_rest_with_bracket_holes.stl

i bought already bought a set of guitar tuners "Gibson USA SG Fusion "

i will use XTC-3D for surface finishing of the parts

in reply to r3dsh4rk
that amazon item is not rod but tube and because of the thin wall thickness prone to bending. You need a massive rod to overcome the bending forces of the strings. I have two 10/8mm tubes on the knee rest of the O'cello and even they do bend a little. Something you wouldn't like on a violin - going out of tune would be the result.
Have a look at the carbon rods at your local hobby shop for RC planes or go to
https://www.aliexpress.com and search for 8mm Carbon Rod - price is $8 free shipping

You're welcome. Looking forward to seeing your Make Pics!

Hello , are you able to resize the parts for a flashforge finder printer? Build Volume: 140mm x 140mm x 140mm

Hmm, that's a tough one. I don't think I can. You might be able to find new ways to slice it however.

Also would you ever care to maybe post a video of you putting it together after printing?

One thing I have forgotten to mention is the violin bridge. It's best to expect to do a fair amount of sanding and tweaking of that (which is your last step). Like any violin, this part is all custom sanded for playability and string action. I went ahead an ordered a cheap multi-pack so I didn't have to worry about getting the first one perfect. You'll also need to flatten the feet out as the pickup here is flat unlike an acoustic violin.

Too late to record a video of assembly, maybe if I build yet another one. There should be enough pictures in the listing to give you a good idea.
I'd recommend assembling the neck parts first, then the body. If you also look at the Annelise Violin photos, that might help as well. These two are completely interchangeable, just different styling. The ElViolin mentioned in the remixes is also a good source for information.
Let me know when if you have specific questions and I will try to answe them.

I have a question. I have begun an attempt at constructing this but may I ask what pickup and preamp you used? I personally don't know which to get.

The one I used is the:
Surfing Electric Violin Silent EQ Pickup Piezo with Headphone and Plug Hole Cable Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FSH21X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_rpaSmWlodtfDx
There are at least 2 similar ones out there that would work. eBay is also a good source.

But depending on if you're an advanced player, there are of course many other fancier ones you can look at.

How's the sound on it without the amp? I'm in Canada, so the amp you've listed is impossible to source unfortunately.

The same pickup referenced above on amazon.com seems to be on amazon.ca for $29 CAD under a different name: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074W7L6GJ. Ships from China so will take a month or so to get it.

You mean the pickup and pre-amp? Well, without that it's going to sound similar to how an electric guitar sounds when not plugged in. There are a couple of similar pickups that should work and they are all from china, all around $25 or so. Using headphones (or plugging it into a guitar amp or GarageBand) it really makes it come alive.

Update: While the original neck design from Stepan83 was really good, I wasn't completely satisfied with the wiring for the pickup, as the wire goes through where the threaded rod resides. So I tweaked "violin_neck_part2.STL" and created "violin_neck_part2_better_pickup_wiring.STL" which provides a little space behind the pickup and allows the wire to go on either side of the threaded rod.

having made (not finished yet - have to install the electronics) the Easy printing Electric Violin by firecardenal (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767536) which seems to be identical to yours - maybe some earlier creator.... I can say that the main culprit for the weight is the 370mm threaded rod - as I am also building the O'cello by cokane (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1703629) I did the most sensible thing and replaced the steel spine with a carbon rod of the same diameter - I have not weighted it yet, but the instrument as a whole now is way lighter than the 12mm steel rod alone! And 8mm carbon rods 500mm long on aliexpress are cheap. By the way, tuning pegs, strings and carbon bows are cheap too (and the quality is perfect).

Easy printing Electric Violin.
The O'Cello - a 3D-printable cello

Great question for petercb, I haven't tried one yet, but the diameter would need to be a close match. My violins are put together at the moment otherwise I would caliper them for you and see if there is a chance for a match.

Thanks. Yes, I've been pondering using a carbon fiber rod as well. Plastic also adds weight, so I've been experimenting there too. Both my violin and Firecardenal's are remixes of Stepan83's, which is credited in my post (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:745940). He did some great work and also posted a lighter version later on that you may be interested in (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:781491).

ElVioin v2

Really REALLY beautiful. I like the steampunk part. Thank you for that!
A few parts are a little to big for my CEL, but on load he came up with an errormessage and when i study the file in the printerpreview i see that parts are transparent from one side and soild from the other. This errors are also show in Autodesk Meshmixer. Is it only me? When i send these files for a external print i would like to have no errors in it.

Thanks for your feedback and assistance Jharyl. I've cleaned up and updated all the files. While I didn't have a problem on my end, I was able to pinpoint the issues you described. Let me know if you have any more trouble.

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This is beautiful..... I am truly blown away, and I don't say that lightly.

I second the motion for a video demonstration.

Thank you! Glad to hear it's not just in the eye of the Maker. It's hard to be objective when it's yours. :-) One day I'll try to post a video. Just finished it, so need to learn a bit more before it will help anyone. The sound is impressive for what it is, and plugged in to a guitar amp it is quite cool sounding too.

I do so wish I had a printer large enough and capable of printing this project. It looks so neat, and I have a daughter that would certainly play it if she had one. Very nice and interesting project. Well done.

All you need is one of the 7.9" x 7.9" x 7.9" ones. I used a Monoprice Select V2, which is identical to the i3/Wanhaos. I designed this one for the same reason and it works wonderfully.

How did you fit the large bottom piece within the printbed size?

Well, I don't know what printer you have or your bed size, so I'll explain how I did it with my Monoprice Maker Select v2 which I think is around 7.9" x 7.9". I was able to use a brim, but a very small one. But the trick was to rotate it not quite 45° until your slicer gives you the green light. There is really only one position that works on my printer. Also, being pretty close to the edge and it being such a big print, make sure your bed is extra clean (alcohol rub, etc) and hope you don't have any lift off anywhere as it goes.

Let me know how it goes and if you have any trouble.

Sorry i forgot to include that i have the same printer. I will give that a shot. Thanks for the advice!

Cool. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing your results. I'm loving seeing the different takes on both my violins.

Ive got all the parts printed, quick question on assembly. How did you screw the pieces together?, Did you tap threads or some other method?

Yes CobaltGriffon is right. I used M4 (metric 4mm) screws and nuts. It should all be listed in the directions. If you have trouble finding it let me know. Also, check out my other violin as well for additional photos of assemblage/connections.

If you look closely at the parts, he's using trapped m4 nuts that fit into the slots on each screw hole

My unit is 130x150x100 mm. Too small for this. I use a Creality CR7. Looking at upgrading I hope to a bigger playform on my Crealty, and later to a dual nozzle system. Lucky to have what I have now, but someday...

Can you put a video if it being played?

When I'm able to do it any justice. ;-) It's solid and actually sounds great for what it is. The most intriguing part is that it feels/behaves similar to how an electric guitar feels compared to an acoustic.