Frame Braces for Creality CR-10, Tevo Tornado, and Afinibot A31

by Mk42Workshop Feb 20, 2017
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I love this and was wondering if it will work on one of the new/gold Tevo Tornados (since they have that extra bit of stuff on the top left of the frame). Thanks!!

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Great work.. very proff!!! Like everything about it - thanks!!

The "balls" are a good idea for the hex nuts however they do not fit a 5/16 hex nut. I have made a new ball that has a hex cut into the flat area to use this as a cover. I am currently waiting on my printer to finish up the frame braces before I can print one off to test.

can anyone make this to work for the CR-10S5 ? the holes and layout is different.

Can anyone advise which model to use new or old for the old version of the Tevo Tornado?

I'm currently printing off the new style and using a 5/16 setup as I would need to order all the 8mm stuff....

I'm guessing the Y geometry of my CR-10 S4 is too long and won't allow these to work on my Machine due to the angle of the holes for the threaded rod?

Is the Ball.stl file correct?
there is no space for nut

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Hey has anyone tried this on a Geeetech a30?!?! Ive been dying for a z brace on that...

LED mountings for your threaded rod modification you might find useful: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3179195

Universal LED mount for support rod M10, M8, M6, 3/8", 5/16", and 1/4" rod

What are people getting for print times?

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I also want to print your files, but I want to make the gain more rigid. I want to use the studs not 8mm, but 12mm. Could you make holes for the 12mm studs? thank you in advance!

I made the M8 knobs for the screw-thread
you can find it here, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157192
Just want to share it!

M8 - Knobs
by Isacat

What exactly does it mean by OLD and NEW style?

First picture it's the New Style. Second the old.

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Printing it at the moment but instead of the printed balls i will try with rubber gasket that is used in some valves. I just need to drill a hole in it. This rubber is not soft so i will give it a try. :-)

Hi everybody !

Does this upgrade is AlfaWise U-20 compatible ?
(Finally, CR-10 and AlfaWise-U20 got exactly the same structures ?)

do you really need to use button head screws??

The New-Style BOM has 16 short plus 4 long screws, so 5 total per piece (4 using T-Slot nuts and 1 longer for the tapped extrusion) but for the life of me I can't find more than 4 screw holes total in each model. Do I really need 16 short screws and T-Slot nuts or is it just 12? If 16, what am I missing?

Thanks for an awesome Thing; it's all printed, and I have the hardware and even got a tap/die set, and I can't wait to assemble it.

Oh another question while I'm at it: should the lower front corner pieces really be printed standing up like the model has them? Seems like they should be lying down on their sides like the upper pieces so the layer adhesion isn't getting pulled. Or maybe I misunderstand the forces and they only experience vertical compression.

Do I need to use supports? I have built 3 brackets already but removing the support residue is a pain. On the other hand I don't feel like risking a 9 hour print with no supports.

yea, the supports are a must.. i forgot them and it was not pretty.. better safe than sorry.. besides. they are more for function then appearance.

Hey everyone. I have printed the first file. all seems to be awesome. but as soon as it gets to the second frame all goes loopy and stringy.
Do i need to print with support? i am printing with PLA on CR-10S at 60 degrees on bed and 195 on nozel. i will post pictures of printed model tomorrow but really need help

I really want to print this to help with large Lithophanes that i am printing (350mm from the bed) on my CR10s but when i open in Cura i am seeing the parts so large i cant help thinking that they need scaling. Sorry for asking this but what is the end size of the parts, image attached. The base for the printer is 300 x 300, a quick look tells me that this part would be 180 ish. this is the Top right file

I print with Cura as well and i didnt need to scale at all

It would be nice if there were printbed example pictures on how you're supposed to orient the parts, because they dont make sense. are there SUPPOSED to be massive, unsupported overhangs in the upper braces or do you use supports? Some documentation on that would be really appreciated

is it possible to provide links for were to buy all the nuts and m blots this is driving me crazy

so from what i'm seeing the triangle piece won't fit on the CR-10S with the motor and lead screw in the way on the side it's meant to go on?

Nope. Single Z motor set-ups only.

documentation unclear. 2 folders with complete old and new would help me understand what i should print.

Hello, when it is writen "M5-0.80", what does "0.80" mean ?

M5-0.8 Is a metric screw/thread size. It's equivalent to 10-32 UNF in imperial, and you can safely use that instead if you can find that.

Ho thank you !
So it's just standard M5 screw :D

Is technically M5 threaded rod and M5 nut, but yes. Also, you're very welcome, good luck!

I printed the New version and there seems to be a problem. That or I am just missing something. on the lower brackets, one of the screw holes doesn't line up with anywhere that can hold a T nut or be tapped. I've included photos for reference.

Crap, I just saw that you corrected the misplaced holes. Unfortunately, I pulled the model from Fusion 360 to adjust the angle of the rod hole to 22 degrees for a CR10 S5. Im guessing the CAD file was old.

Do you think 20% triangular infill will do? I just noticed my setting and i'm a few hours into the print.

Would this fit the CR-10 S5 version ?

I Just made a remix that adjusted the angle of the holes a bit. I'll post it once I get the hardware and make sure it works.

Hi there. I am going to print this awesome frame for my CR-10S. I have browsed throug the comments but cannot find a list of hardware parts I will need, togheter with links to somewhere (Amazon o eBay?) to buy them. Such list will be very helpful for newbie as I am :-)

I had the same problem as you. i am also a newbie to 3d printing. i could not find the hardware for this. until i found this youtube video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBRc3ylV_U0 he gives links to all the hardware for this frame brace in the description of the video and shows you how to put it together and get it on the printer itself. i just got a cr-10 and ordered all the hardware on amazon today and will be getting the parts in 2 days as i am also going to make this frame brace i suggest watching the entire video before ordering the parts

Not sure which files are for the CR10s

I printed the "triangle" part but was disappointed that it doesn't fit due to the T brace on my CR-10S. :-(

Remove the "'T" piece. With the tingle in place it is redundant. I have added braces to 4 CR-10/Tornado machines and I now have a lot of the T brackets hanging around. :D

The holes on the end are misaligned anyway. I'm re-printing it now with the carve-out for the "T" brace and the endcap holes aligned with the current rear crossbar bolts, so they can just be reused and fed back into their original slots. Fingers crossed.

The triangle does not fit the Tevo tornado as it is obstructed by the reverse T joint :(

Remove the "'T" piece. With the tingle in place it is redundant. I have added braces to 4 CR-10/Tornado machines and I now have a lot of the T brackets hanging around. :D

Ive just cut a small bit out of the corner in order to fit around the tbrace. I see no reason it shouldnt work fine. Ill let you know here tomorrow and take a pic when i get my t-nuts in the mail.

For sure it should work if you're willing to mess with a dremel, unless you have a better idea. Removing the ~20x4mm till the screw hole from the stl would be preferable and I don't think it would mess with other designs.

Very cool design and thanks for uploading the F3D files, really appreciate it as I may remix this a little, will upload and credit if I do.

These lower braces don't line up with my CR-10 whatsoever. There are no holes on the side either. Is my CR-10 a fake?

It does not go into either of those screw holes. Instead it goes in a t-nut in between those holes. :)

I haven't printed these for my CR-10 yet, but I can see from the pictures you sent that the part lines up perfectly even with how you are holding it.

From what I can see, the inner-most frame screw comes out of the frame and then goes back through the lower brace, back into the frame. Look at the second picture in this Thing to see what I mean.

Good luck!

any amazon links to the hardware?

I have to say, this bracing system has not improved my prints, but has ABSOLUTELY TRANSFORMED them.

Ringing, which was bad on my setup over 60mm/s, has completely gone, all the way up to 135mm/s. Whodathought!
Combined with the good old squashball feet, this little bugger rattles away at even 20 on jerk and 1000accel for print moves, and just doesn't ghost. The extra wobbling movement that the feet gave the unit took a bit of ghosting away, for sure, but both together - again - stunning results. It just rocks and wobbles away in the corner now, but there is absolutely NO movement in the Z axis at all.

Superb mounts, excellent result, well thought out design.


Where did you get the files for the direct extruder setup?

Could you link to the filament holder you are using :)?

Stock filament holder. Just popped on top with a couple of T nuts. :)

I was wondering the same thing... it looks like these:


Cr-10 control box under bed mod - squash ball edition

That's the ones!

Is there not a way to engineer out the loss of 125mm z travel?

You missed the period. :)
The new version should allow most of that back.

Do you really need FIFTY screws, washers and so on for this design? Where on earth would they all go?


I am looking everywhere but I can't seem to find any place that sells m8 threaded rods that are 600mm long

Buy 5/16 threaded rod

I was looking at this design and wondered about extending the top braces back and printing a second set of the lower braces for additional support in the back.

I’m just getting started printing this as is for my 10s and must say, it’s looking good so far.

Got the top and bottom braces printed out, as well as the back left and a mirrored version of the back left bracket for the right side. I’ve run into an issue with the top support pieces. The bolt holes aren’t lining up with the frame tracks and I think it’s due to the 10s’ z axis guide at the top. It’s just slightly further out on the side than the support rail which pushes the top bracket out farther. I’ll try to get some photos tomorrow if I can’t figure it out.

I started with just the balls(I can hear you laughing). Before I printed them I rotated them 180 degrees (upside down). This way you don't need supports. Printed separate from all the other parts.

Also, the hex opening in the ball looks like the size of the outer diameter of of the 5/16 nut, but I don't see how the nut can recess into the ball with that center channel that runs the full length of the ball. Are supposed to remove that center section(pink arrow in picture)?

Did you end up removing it? I was thinking the same thing im actually about to start printing them and wasnt sure what to do once they are done

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Can I use this for the CR-10-S and add some extra stability?

I am doing it as we speak and yes sure you can it's the exact same thing as the cr-10 =)
One thing make sure when printing the balls the support is off because it's very hard to clean up if you use support on those.
Also do not print that triangle because the cr-10s has dual Z motors and it won't fit on the CR-10S

Am I supposed to break or drill out the round rod part of the ball coupler so the nut will go in?

They break out.

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hi, I have trouble finding the rods, anyone can lead my to an online shop who sell the right ones ?

Lowes or Home Depot have 5/16" rod and nuts

I am from europe sadly :(

Sadly? Hardly!

8mm rods, nuts and washers can be found in any hardware store and at very low price

just bought mine from B&Q were only a couple of pounds will need to reduce the length slightly but should not be a problem

Hi Rebel, sorry for my bad english i wish u understand my explanation.
I start to print ur beautyful project with simplify at 0.2 layer height, nozzle 0.4, full honeycomb infill 25%, first layer 210degrees and the others at 200, bed always 60.
Looking print from the beginning all seems perfect, the first layers are perfectly flats, when the work finish i see the object pulling up the tape from the bed in the object corners, i can swear the tape have a strong glue.
As u can see in the pictures the print haven’t the base flat, this making me sad cuz every print concern a lot of time (12h usually) and a lot of pla. I print objects oriented as shown in the pictures.
Have u some kind of suggestion?
Thx in advance

what are your settings for Simplify 3D?
I can share my settings with you and you won't get that curling

I am not the designer, but here are some tips:

Generally that (curling) is caused by having the nozzle too warm, or the bed too cool....Also, if your fan is not cooling the extruded plastic fast enough (right as it exits the nozzle). Try lowering the nozzle temp (for layers after the first) to 195 and raise the bed temp to 70 on first layer then 65 after that.

Not sure what you are printing on but if it is the glass that came with the CR-10, then make sure it is very flat (especially in the center, if not then try flipping it...or even better buy a 12” square piece of mirror (with sanded edges)). Mirrors have to be very flat to avoid visual warping. Amazon sells pack of 2 for $13, but the edges are beveled slightly so you lose a little build area (about 12cm). Also apparently ikea sells 12” mirror tiles. Anyway, regardless of which glass or mirror you use, make sure to sand it with 200 grit sandpaper vertically, horizontally AND diagonally...this creates a loose hex pattern which is great for adhesion...which also is contributing to the issue you are seeing (ie: curling).

Also, try upgrading the fan duct to this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354572 It should help cool the extruded plastic better. There is another more exacting fan remix with a small output, but I have found that it actually seems to not cool the part overall well enough...but that could be an error on my part.

A big difference for me was that when I level the bed using a piece of paper I make the fristion on the the paper quite tight...so the paper just barely can move back and forth...this causes the first layer to really get pressed (smooshed) into the bed. It looks a little flat and thin on the first layer, but it looks fine on the 2nd and later layers and it REALLY helps get that first layer to stick and stay stuck. (Again, I am using a flat sanded mirror as a bed).

Lastly, lowering the infill will allow the part to cool faster, but this is probably not the main cause since you are only doing 25% infill. For most nonstructural builds (like scupltures) you can go down to 10% infill and save some filament, but this build probably needs the 25% for the strength.

Great thing about sanded glass/mirror is that adhesion is awesome when bed is hot and then later the part litterally pops off the plate once the bed cools down...at least for PLA.

Hope this helps!

CR-10 duct fan mod Remix

Thank you so much for the answer tralornik
I print very good the part now, and i found half what u suggest is what i've done :)
I help the adhesion squeezing first layer and using like bluetape as background, i discovered that my connector of the bed heating was damaged so i suppose the bed temp was not constant and i flip the glass cuz on the other side now are very flat, in addiction i found very useful to print 10 rings of brim starting in contact with the object and 3mm of raft.
Now i have fixed the bedheating and for sure on the next prints i add the fan duct u link trying to raise the bed temp and lowering nozzle temp as u wrote.
Thanks so much again

Great news! I would also recommend getting a 300mm square cork insulator (ebay, amazon) with adhesive to attach to the underside of the buildplate... it will make it heat ALOT faster (or so I have heard, still waiting for mine). Saves electricity and patience.

Hi Tralornik,

What were the results of your cork insulator?

Sorry so late in replying....Cork Works great in allowing higher temps and more stability at up to 90+. Not too much help in speed of heating at lower temps, but I am experimenting with possible solutions.

It worked OK. I ended up replacing it with EVA foam as it stuck better with good double sided tape and insulated better. It is available at Harbor Freight.

Will this work on all CR-10 models, from the 300x300 to the 500x500? Also, is there a way to make it work with a dual-z setup on the CR-10s?

Yes you can use this for the 10S but only the top right and left and bottom right and left. The big triangle won't fit because of the dual Z axes motor. i printed this for my 10S and it works just fine. Thanks to the creator. Very good braces for the cr-10/10S

Check the makes. There is a user that has it installed on an S. I think your only hang up on using this on the bigger machines is going to be the angle on the top mounts for the threaded rods, and the length of said rods. Everything else about the machines is the same connections wise.

What kind of speeds can you cleanly print at now?

I favor quality. At the moment I print at 80mm/s for PLA. But that is an extrusion limit more than a frame limit. I will be experimenting more with higher speeds once I have the Aero/Volcano longer. This more allows you to go higher with more quality.

Does this clear the 10s double z motor?

If you do not use the large triangle piece, yes.

For the CR-10S5's larger frame, are the holes in the top and lower pieces at the correct angle; I note that they do not move and so the angle might be off.

They are not quite correct. I had a 500mm machine and they did fit and work, but just not 100%

im gonna start to print this for my cr-10S (dual z), looking at the BOM, is it 50 (fifty) pieces of 5mm T-slot nuts? seems ALOT?

You might not need them all since you won't be using the rear, triangular brace. I had some extra, just not many. TSlot nuts are not a bad thing to have around anyway.

Suggestion: Since there are many parts, a list of how many of each part needed would be helpful.

one of each and 8 of the nuts

Looking to apply this to my S5 (500mm) CR-10. I understand the triangle bracket cannot be used since there are two Z-axis motors and the strain relief cannot be used either, but someone else already designed one for the S5.

My question is...have others been able to use the remaining components to stabilize the S5? If so, could one of you post a photo of your machine with these items installed? Thanks much.

As a general comment, it is better to link to another person's work rather than include it. That way if it is updated, users will always have the latest version just a click away rather than needing to search for it.

Does anyone know if this works with the cr-10 mini?

I also would like to know. printing anyway so maybe i'll answer!

@tater1337 did you have any success on the mini?

z braces work, the triangle doesn't fit. I've added all sorts of other bits and pieces so I cannot tell you of their effectiveness, but they feel stiffer, so....winner?

Good to know the braces work!

I'll have a go at adapting the triangle when I get the time. Was it the size that was wrong?

too big, since the 300mm becomes 200mm

I found that it really didn't matter

Fair enough! Still seems like a good addition. If it fits, it can't hurt I guess. :) I'll see if I can TinkerCAD something that will fit.

Does anyone know if this will fit the Tevo Tornado?

Yes, the rear triangle brace fits like a glove. I am printing the rest of the supports meow.

The side brace alone really makes a difference; much more stable and very straight. I really think the side brace and the opposite corner Z-brace are just about all you need.

what does the corner Z brace give you anyway

would it be possible to get the model of the frame. i am trying to design a cabinet to cnc around the cr-10 but i want a accurate model to model my cabinet around so i can really visualize how everything will fit and interact. I cannot find a model of the printer anywhere and yours looks really accurate. Any help is appreciated.

I saw your other model of the frame, altho the uprights are offset on the cr-10 like this model has. not a problem tho the other model should work fine. thanks.

Are you shure the bolts and T-nuts are M5:s? I bought some but shey ate way to big to slot in the alum. profile.

They fit on mine. I used both M5 and M4 and both fit for me. I think most of the factory t-slot nuts are M5.

Note that the Amazon link provided says it's for 50 T-slot nuts but it's only for 25. The project (at least with dual Z) requires 26!

How do you make this project work with dual-z? I have a 300x300 and a 500x500 and they are both equipped with dual z so the triangle part won't work. how'd you make it work?

Instead of the triangle brace, print a mirrored copy of the left side rear brace for the right side.

Where do the washers go? They don't fit in the "counterbore" of the printed pieces, and it's nearly impossible to get them in between the printed pieces and the channel.

The washers I used have 9.8mm outer diameter. They went to the hole by using mild brute force. Maybe you have larger outer dimension? In the metric part of the world it is easy to find lots of different sizes. I don't know about the 'imperial world':)

What is the part for the left back for?

Not really needed, but I figured might add a bit of rigidity to the lower frame. :)

I want to install lj12a3-4-z/bx sensor but how i measure the offsets?

Couple things, you'll need to edit the sensor hole because that sensor needs a 10mm ID hole to hold the sensor. It's smaller than the ones that Timothy Hoogland and others are selling (EZABL kits). Also, that sensor senses "around 4mm" - so you likely will need to remove the glass to make it work... make that - will need to. If you're okay with those - then you're set. haha

Source: I own one. Haha

I have installed it since 2 months ago without edit anything because the sensor came with washers. It is true that I had to remove bed glass cause sensor senses 1mm the metal. The offsets that I use are x:+60 , y:-10, z:-1.1.

what actually causes you to lose 12.5mm in height?

The V Slot wheels on the sides of the gantry run into the sides of the support.

Hi, if the balls are made to fit nuts for the threaded rod, why is there a cylinder in the middle so that no nut would fit?
Or do i get it wrong? Please help

The cylinder is a support and breaks out. :)

Thanks, i didn't expect that to be prefab ;) Talking about something else, it would be nice for following makers of these mod, if you could complete the parts list for the eight M8 hex nuts for the threaded rods? (And maybe remove the single 15mm M5 screw that's not needed as you mentioned somwhere below?) Just my two cents ;)

I noticed there is a support bracket at the right beam. Where can I find the stl-file for it?

I haven't designed one. With the extruder on the right side, it was difficult to design one that allowed the Z gantry to move close to maximum.

What are the balls for?

They hold the nuts for the threaded rod and put tension on the brackets.

Solid design. I only installed four brackets on the front and they work perfectly.

Any way of extending the wire tension bracket to fit on a 500x500x500 CR-10 Printer?

Cr-10 S5 Strain relief bracket
by moezart

Thank you RebelRousingProps!!!!

"1 - 5mm screw that is has at least 15mm of thread length and matching nut."

Where this screw+nut go?

Close to finishing the prints going shopping for parts soon. I will have make pictures uploaded if not this week then next one. Cheers!

You know what, that may be something I forgot to delete. I can't figure out where it would go. :D

Such an excellent mod, thanks for posting! The large triangle brace alone produced a measurable difference in squareness of the z axis to the base/ frame. Printing the front/ top pieces now. That being said I was rather happy with the squareness of the printer before this mod, but after is is spot on with my try square. If not abundantly clear, split this print up into two or three! Keep the pieces low and flat so you can get the best finish on them, and then when everything is assembled you can do your 10+" vertical prints with peace of mind. The pieces are very well designed and are worth a good deal more than the material they're made out of - hard to ask for more.

I have had 2 of the 300mm machines and one of the 500mm machines. You got lucky, none of mine were square. :D

Do you have any before/after pictures of this mod?

There are makes of it, and I have seen several printed on the CR-10 FB groups. What types of pictures?

Hello I have not got printer yet I'm thinking of acquiring cr10

will these work for s4

I have the 300mm and the 500mm. It fits both, but better in the 300mm. Also, my 500mm has two Z steppers. If the 400mm has 2 Z steppers, then you cannot use the triangle brace. You can mirror the small rear corner bracket and use it though.

So this is the final design huh Josh. I like that you did a reinforcement for the bed cable that thing constantly comes undone this looks different then what you showed me on yours but it's good I'll have to get started printing it off for my Titan.

Should be. Some people had the bed height screws hit the braces, so I had to alter them.

I see well I'll definitely be printing out the support for the bed heading cable had it break several times on me already was just saying to Zach we needed a way to stop that from happening. I'll have to print one out for the shop too.

I found the big triangle bracket hits the leveling screw for the table when the unit tries to home. I used a soldering iron to notch a channel the width of the leveling screw. Are you using modified z height switch bracket to allow the table to be raise higher allowing everything to clear?

No. I do have a nut added to the bed screws under the bed to allow me to adjust the level easier and for it to hold level better. Maybe that is causing my bolts to be higher.

Do you have .stl files for the CR-10 frame similar to the first picture? I am wanting to do a CR-10 build from the ground up.

Just the very basic frame with no accessories.

Hello there
I found that the bottom of the heating plate "screw" will be ground on the four sides of Frame Braces

You mean it hits them as the bed moves in "Y"? Weird, mine are cranked down all the way and don't hit.

Hello there
Yes, when it is running Y-axis, Frame Braces will be tilted by the adjustment platform screws
Do i have any way to fix it?

Can you email me pictures so I can see where you're referring to?

Have you printed a tall object with this and noticed improved results?

To use the giant triangle bracket the metal T bracket at the base has to be removed. Don't really like that..
Also, Either my my machine is not square or the contraction or the cooling material made the bracket not perfectly square.
The other things is why does it have like 8 screw holes on the lower section of the bracket but only two on the pillar section?
I got it mount though. I spun the metal bracket at the base 45 degrees remounted it so it was at least partial use.

I actually just cut a small notch to fit around the T-Brace and it does not appear to impact the usefulness...I.e.: No impact on mount points/bolt holes of triangle.

Just remember to loosen the T-brace when squaring this up and retighten triangle and T-Brace together while holding it square.

Really curious how much more stability the dual rods add above and beyond what the triangle adds, since they are both reinforcing the same front-to-back (Y-Axis) plane.

The T bracket doesn't do much at all and provides no advantage with the triangular brace there. :)

My machine was not square, so your's likely isn't either. There is nothing there to make it square, nor hold it square if you are able to manually move it square.

Additional holes up the pillar didn't seem necessary. The additional ones on the bottom also work to reinforce the bottom of the frame where the extrusions meet. I was trying to also square all the corners as well as the pillar.

Dont you have some picture where we can se the whole printer with these mods.. ? :)

I have the printer aswell but havent noticed any flaws in my prints.

Why would someone use this... I am seeing lots of YouTube videos where people are printing to almost the max Z height with no issues.

It improves print quality. Yes you can print full height, but it doesn't look as good at the top as it does the bottom.

Also, this allows you to square the uprights so it is square to the lower frame. This way the print doesn't lean as it gets taller.

what about the bed on the CR-10 - I noticed it has alot of play in it.. you an press on the left and right side and it moves quite a bit.

You don't have to remove the carriage. The wheels on one side of the carriage have eccentric nuts installed. Turn the printer over, locate the side that has these, place the included wrench on them and turn each of them slightly to firm up the carriage.

I noticed this on my printer as well. To fix it, you must remove the print bed (the glass and the aluminum plate) and the tighten all of the nuts that carry the V slot rollers on the bed carriage starting with the ones on the right hand side. There are standoffs under the ones on the right. Once they are tightened, tighten the 3 on the left hand side as tight as you can go or until the carriage doesn't wobble any more.

This drove me bananas until I figured out this fix.

This seems faulty.. The location to mount the upper and lower allthread bracket are sitting on top of the two screws that are used to hold the pillars in place. Same goes with the bottom as in your picture you didnt put a mounting screw in that location. Can the 4 allthread brackets actually be mounted correctly? I dont see mounting screws in your picture with the prints.

I'm not figuring out what you're referring to. :) There are 6 screws holding each of the upper mounts in place, not 2. The lower mounts have 8 each.

I know it's not perfectly engineered, but there are a lot of design constraints that dictate the upper mounts be oddly designed. Mostly that the X carriage and extruder are in that area. I wanted to retain the maximum amount of Z travel since a lot of the reason for designing these was to make sure the pillars are truly vertical and didn't move while printing, thus improving tall prints. Designing them to distribute the forces better would remove a lot of Z height. I went thru about 8 revisions on these.

Sorry, I was referring to the 4 screws on the top of the unit. Do those screw holes get reused to hold down the top brackets or do they sit under the bracket? The two on each side. The screws on each size of mine do not sit totally flush and stick up a little above the alum bar. Also what are the chances of making a set of these with the hole angle made for taller pillars like 500 or so?

Ah, gotcha. Those are under the brackets. I wanted them to stay below so that they could stay tight. On mine they sit slightly below flush. I can add a recess into the mounts to help clear any bolts like yours that may not be flush or below. Thanks for pointing that out.

I have a 500x500x500 machine that should be here by the end of the week. The reason I used the ball mounts on the all thread was to allow angle variances. The 500mm machine is only 50mm taller, which only changes the angle slightly. The ball mount system should be able to account for that, but I will test it as soon as that machine comes in. :) I will definitely have to redesign the triangular brace, but I anticipate all the others will remain the same.

Awesome. Curious how the 500mm unit runs. When i Spoke to creality they couldn't recommend it because the height. Im guessing it just needs these brackets. I printed the thumb screws, dumb question but i assume the center needs drilled out?

That was my thought as well. The pillars are basically completely unsupportted and 500mm is tall. The tiny "T" brackets a that bottom do not do much at all.

The center is just a support and actually just break out clean. Those are the one part that is not my design, but one for a Wanhao i3. But they are a good design so I used it and credited the original author. :)

I have a couple suggestion for cad if you get bored.

  1. I want to change the cherry switch on the Z axis to an optical. I have one of the standard optical sensors that can be picked up on amazon. Better reputability of course. I need to find a nice way to mount and flag it.
  2. I want to add another optical sensor of the same type before the filament puller. When the filament runs out octoprint will pause the print so the user can change the filament.
    There are a lot runout sensor brackets on here but i have not seen any that are suitable for the way out puller is mounted right next to the dern lead screw. I am tempted to relocate the puller motor.
    If either of these have interest for you as well , yay :)

I didn't have much desire to switch to optical. In this application it doesn't seem to offer any advantages from what I have seen.

I have thought about the filament detector, but using a standard roller switch. But I thought that it had to be in the firmware. I run Octoprint as well, but I do not think it would be what supports that function. I do not know if the Creality/Afinibot motherboard supports filament detection. I believe my Titian does as it uses a different motherboard.

I have noticed the filament right up against the screw as well. I wanted to put a bowden tube up to it, but it is too close for that. I am thinking about either a spacer, or just relocating the motor to the top rail. I also am thinking about going dual extruder on mine...another reason to relocate both motors to the top. Likely with a bearing and swivel mechanism to reduce the bowden tube length and reduce forces on the extruder carriage.

I changed my mind on using optical for the filament detector since clear filament might be an issue. I think this idea below would be awesome if the bowden tube press in fittings could be threaded into each side.

Octoprint has a runout sensor plugin that runs to the Gpio of the raspberry pi.

I am thinking similar things about the extruder location. i am half tempted to just stand up a 3rd pillar to bolt it to.

Microswitch filament runout sensor
by eussrh

That is similar to what I had in mind, but using a microswitch that has the roller on the arm.

I will take a look on the Pi solution for the run out sensor. :)

The 3rd pillar is a good idea. Maybe in the middle of the Z travel on one of the back sides. The other idea I had was to move the Z stepper to the top and add another screw to the other side with a belt system. That way it does better with having weight on it.

Those are exactly what I have been thinking. One issue there is the table moves so far back that it covers the rear base but a pillar could go on a rear side. The unit is so tall i worry about having feeding issues if i mount it to the top but maybe its not a problem.

I keep coming back and tossing out the idea of the additional lead screw connected with a belt. I asked creality to send me the 3d printed parts files like the lead screw bearing support uses. The promised to send them monday. For your 500mm unit i think that would be almost mandatory. Do you know if the lead screws are the standard 2mm? I might just buy the $9 pair of lead screw bearings amazon has.

That means that you need to properly tighten the eccentric nuts that tighten the wheels to the extrusion on the Y carriage.

Comments deleted.

Support, yes. There are several places that are flat and long.

I printed at 0.2mm layer height.

By layers, do you mean shell thickness? My nozzle is 0.4mm and I did 3 layers. So ~1.12mm shell thickness.

I did 25% infill. 25-50% sound be plenty of strength.

Whichever surface has the largest area flat on the ground and doesn't produce parts starting on thin air.