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jonthemiller

YALE - Yet Another Lack Enclosure

by jonthemiller Feb 20, 2017
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Where did you get the STL to hold the display/control box underneath?

Thats just some scrap wood I had. There are 2 strips of MDF glued to the underside of the table, one on each side of control box. Then I made a frame of sorts out of scrap cherry and screwed it into the MDF. The control box slides into it from the back.

Hi,
I'm using your creation to build a printer enclosure but one of the thing that is tricky to do is get the brackets mounted onto the top of the table surface accurately. I made a drilling jig using the top brackets as a template but after printing it out, realised the screw holes in the leg base brackets are in a different position. Would it be possible to reposition the holes so have the same centres as the top brackets. They seem to be on the diagonal which is simple but the bottom ones seem to be at odd centres.
Any help appreciated.
Best regards, Nat.

I would love to be able to, but, I made these in Sketchup over a year ago and no longer have the same setup (installed version + extensions) I used to make them. I will add the original .skp files though if you want to try it.

Hello,
I am trying to remix your design.
I see that the led_base.stl is not symmetric in x,y. That is, one side is 1mm longer than the other.
Is it on purpose ?

Probably just an artifact of resizing the piece to fit the legs - took 5 versions until I had the tight fit I wanted.

Anybody find any way to align the bracket that goes between the top of the leg and the top table? It seems to be pretty much Random Chance with the double-sided screw that goes between the top and the leg.

Sometimes it'll align well, sometimes it's off by a quarter turn, and you're doomed if it's off by half a turn. Once the bracket makes contact, you really have another quarter turn of leeway or less, but if you have to back off an entire half-turn, you're 1.5mm to 2mm off flush on the leg.

Since the table is hollow particle board, it really doesn't stand up to being disassembled and reassembled either.

I did it by putting the bracket on and tightening until the bracket made contact and noting which corner would be inside when screwed all the way down (usually another half or quarter turn). Then unscrewed, adjust the bracket, and tighten it all way down.

And yeah, the Lack tables aren't super sturdy and don't really hold up to repeated breaking down and reassembly.

Perfect! Thank you!

And to relocate the original threads in the particleboard bottom of the table, you can let the screw rest VERY lightly in the hole and turn it counterclockwise until it clicks into the thread. Then go clockwise and you're set.

Pilot hole position is a pain, but with the countersunk parts, very important, so definitely good to make sure the parts have no globs and be very careful making the pilot holes, especially on the top of the legs. It will very happily pull the printed parts apart with the power of the screw countersinking.