QU-BD One-Up / Two-Up Replacement / Substitute Parts

by MacAttak, published

QU-BD One-Up / Two-Up Replacement / Substitute Parts by MacAttak Dec 26, 2013
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All parts in STL format for easy printing (assuming you have a second printer). Will continue adding printable files here as needed, updating this description each time.
A) Base plate for One-Up/Two-Up printers that was missing from original Kickstarter kits (basicHEM_r3.stl).
B) Alternative for QU-BD's design of the Y-drive mechanism that adds some sturdiness, allows the belt guide to operate more smoothly. Replaces the entire Y-Drive mechanism (except for the bearings and bolts).
C) Spacer Plates for Two-Up printers to correct Z Screw misalignment. Just install under the linear bearings of the X Gantry system.

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Mac, I looked at your make picture. It seems maybe use used wood screws to hold all the square motor boxes together. Did you do that, so you did not need glue and you can easily take apart? Has this held up well? Did you drill the holes first or just run the screws in? What size did you use?


Wood screws were not used to hold any of the parts together.

I must be missing something, but it was extremely difficult (i.e. vice grips and lever extensions on my allen keys) to drive the stock nuts through the Y drive mechanism. I did print at 100% as the holes all line up, but is it intended to operate that way?

The threads are very snug (on purpose since there is no capture nut to hold the thing together). If the plastic swells at all or if the X/Y scaling is off at all then it can easily be a little too snug. Also, if the Z scaling is off (or if there is bad ribbing) then the threads might not line up right.

Either way, by forcing the bolts in you are more or less re-tapping the holes and it should be OK. As long as the parts aren't visibly warped after assembly then it should be fine.

that might explain why all upgrade parts (not just yours) are like this. Maybe I'll bump my extrusion multiplier down a bit. Where can I find X/Y scaling settings (in slic3r?) ? Thanks again

Steps per millimeter for each axis. They can be found in the EEPROM settings, or they can be tweaked by altering the default values in the firmware and re-flashing the board (I recommend the first method).

You can calibrate each axis using a digital caliper. Print an object (like a calibration cube) that is supposed to be of known dimensions, and then compute the error amount, and adjust the steps/mm accordingly. The detailed process is described in a thread on the One-Up/Two-Up forums.

New to all of this. Currently building my OneUp. I've been trying to find this part:
That's part K from the manual. So far, I haven't been able to find any thing. I saw that you have some designs for other parts, so might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks!

It's fairly easy to extrude any of the DXF files into a 3D STL using openscad. I went ahead and did that and uploaded the resulting STL for the part you are missing.

You could also just print the DXF onto paper and use it as a stencil to cut out a replacement panel from wood.

Oh! Looking again, it appears that this part is missing four slots on the sides, just like the faulty part I'm trying to replace. I guess the DXF file itself must be faulty!

What this part SHOULD look like is:

but without the large certral hole and four tiny holes surrounding it.

Wow, thanks! And thanks for the info. (Gave me a fish AND taught me to fish.)

And so quickly, too. What a great community!

What about combining the ydrive upgrade with the side plate it mounts onto, make it into one 3d printable object with the threading for the screws going all the way through?

This worked great for my TwoUp and fixing the hinky bearing and washer solution it came with out of the box. Thanks a million.

Hi Mac, just got done making the Y-drive mechanism for my one-up. The belt stays in the center much better now and I have far more confidence in this then the orginal method.

However I did need to make some changes, I think the January backers printers are a little different. The one-up anyway.

The build plate will interfere with the two big bolt heads because this mod has the bolts closer to the build plate. To fix this I cut a 45deg angle in the bottom of the build plate.

The M3 bolts to mount the Y motor will be to short with this mod, I had to find some to fit.

Belt claps are no longer in line with the bearings and motor. This will cause the bed will bind up as it nears the maximum throw. I had to remove one of the two bolts from each belt clamp and use a ziptie as a replacement.

Thanks for giving it a try.

I think the first issue is due to a difference between the One and Two Up models - mine is a Two and I didn't have a One to compare it with. The third issue might also be due to a difference in the beds between the two models.

The second issue is expected - some folks have been able to reuse their M3 bolts from their kit, while others (like me) had to replace them with longer bolts.

Okay.... nevermind... I had Spiral Vase on and it apparently tries to remove the infill to keep the feature working...

Ah! Yes, that would do it :)

I never use spiral vase mode... probably because I don't really have a need for vases :)

At some point I must have checked the box and just never realized it says that its Experimental and that it will remove infill and other features to get the walls correct

The YDriveLowerBody.stl. The bottom part fills solid like I want but then everything above only prints as a perimeter of, including the threads making them pretty much useless. Makes no sense as I'm pretty much using default settings with a few tweaks (running slower than default).

BTW, if I were printing that today I would probably use 80% octogramspiral infill and two perimeters and 3 (maybe 5) shells - that would give it a great deal of internal strength. I'd probably try it first in 0.2mm layers and bump it down to 0.1mm if the threads didn't come out right.

That is odd. If I recall, I printed it with 25% honeycomb infill and it didn't do anything weird. What layer height are you using? I always print at 0.2 or 0.1 mm, and probably would have done that part in 0.1mm (it's been a while so I don't recall exactly). Maybe the threads are being handled strangely due to something set in your slicer.

And I'm assuming you didn't run the file through NetFabb or anything else that might have altered it?

I'll give that a try... I've been using rectilinear at .254 layer heights but I can always knock that down (was using Toybuilders layer heights blog as a starting point). And no, I downloaded them and dropped them straight in from here... I'll try re downloading them tonight and using your settings above and see if that fixes it..

For whatever reason when I try to print this the upper section only tries to print hollow (solid on the base 2mm). What setting is everyone using for this?

Which of the five parts are you having trouble with?

This is perfect. Everyone with a Kickstarter TwoUp should print this set of pieces immediately!

Solidworks makes a free Autocad like software (fully featured). you just fill in the form and then you get a download link. It'll open .dxf files. then just use the dimension tools and you can put your own dimensions on it.

You can download the DXF file from here: http://www.qu-bd.com/BothUps/Laser%20Cut%20Files/extruder/http://www.qu-bd.com/BothUps/L... you want the file "basicHEM_r3.dxf". You should be able to find software that can open that file and show you the dimensions - it is just a simple 2D file format used to drive laser-cutters.

A jigsaw will be difficult because those holes are quite small. But should be possible.

Thanks for this! I am new to 3d printing and need to manufacture this piece (or something similar) by hand. Is there any easy way to use this file to get a drawing with dimensions. I was thinking of using a jigsaw and drill to make the piece out of MDF. I can just eyeball it, but might be good to have a drawing with measurements to start with.