Wanhao i3 tool holder

by realrenshai Feb 23, 2017
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Great design. Thank you.

I am not sure what is going on with my setup. I am using Simplify3d. When I import the bucket it shows the whole thing but when I go to prepare to print it is only about 1cm tall. Do you know what is going on?

Sorry, I completely missed this post! Did you get it figured out?

What ended up being the problem?

Simplify3d has a variable settings wizard where you can create different settings for multiple sections in a print. Maybe faster speeds for a base for example but slowed down for details above base. Well when you use the wizard it sets layer levels in another settings menu which I didn’t know about. This was causing the print to stop at certain point because I hadn’t turned off the wizard nor did I set the other sections.

wow, interesting. I've never used that wizard before. Thanks for the info and glad you figured it out!

Do you have S3d? If so that wizard is super rad. You can basically change all the settings for each section of the print. Pretty rad feature.

Random question, but what Z-brace mod are you using?

This facebook post has my complete listing of mods I've done to my printer:

Sorry, didn't see this message. This post in the facebook post is everything I've done with my printer:

Text of the post:
Updated post of what I've done with my printer and the steps I've taken to have higher quality and faster prints. This time with pictures! Feedback is welcome!

My goal has been to have easy and simple printing that I don't have to wait forever on and can print with any materials that I want. I'm not saying my way is the best way or even the right way... it's just the way I did it after a lot of research. :)

I think I've achieved that through:
-consistent quality prints at 90mm/s
-prints pla, abs, petg, and flexible filaments without problems
-zero bed adhesion issues
-can disconnect control box from printer when needed
-extended control box cables
-"remote" printing via octoprint, which leaves my computer free to do whatever and I am able to view the camera and monitor/control the printing remotely.

Although, as I've gone through doing all these upgrades, I have determined that I may have an addiction. LOL



BLTouch for auto leveling the printer (This one is huge): $47

E3D Titan Aero: $128.30


Replaced the melzi board with a sainsmart 2 in 1 board (arduino and ramps 1.4 board combined): $44

External MOSFET so I don't burn my house down: $16

4x DRV8825 stepper drivers for the ramps board: Lower end stepper drivers have movements measured in 1/16, these are 1/32. Quieter and more precise stepper driver movement: $16

Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 $10.49

Build plate

upgraded Y carriage plate (replaced the thin carriage plate that is under the heating bed): $20

Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm $11.99

Silicone thermal pad for glass bed: $9

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 10" x 10" $17.95

Gizmo Dorks 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape Sheets 10" x 10" (5-Pack) $12.99

Raspberry Pi for octiprint: $50

Extension/disconnects for Control box/Printer:

Info here: https://goo.gl/1g6Ms9
Note: See Scott Adkins' post for material. Cost for this is not in the below total

Right Angle cords, just to look cleaner, no other reason. Lol

18 AWG Universal Right Angle Power Cord $5.98 cost not in total

1-Meter USB 2.0 A to Right Angle B Cable Cord $4.12 cost not in total

Total price was probably around $385 for everything. You do NOT need to do everything all at once.


Converted to Marlin firmware for better autoleveling. I uploaded my configuration.h changes to the file section here.
Simplify3d or Cura for creating Gcode files
octoprint to connect to the printer instead of using my computer

Printed parts:

Z braces for stability:

filament guide:

Locker for filament guide:

case adapter for MOSFET, just added this: (mirrored it and added right angle connections)

mount for sainsmart board: (Note: had to redesign original to fit V2.1 printer)

Y belt tensioner:

Carriage mount for Titan Aero with BLTouch (Note: had to redesign to add bltouch mount)
Note: needed to add three 3mm spacers for the screws, I used the following OpenSCAD code:
difference() {
cylinder(d=5.5, h=3);
cylinder(d=3.6, h=3);

Wanhao i3 Clip on Raspberry Pi Octoprint Case
Note: Needed to add spacers behind mount to be more snug. I used the following open SCAD code to make the spacers and printed at .1 layer height:

Wanhao i3 tool holder

Z alignment bars:

Camera mount (I already had camera)

Tools I use:



Printer setup:

Dialing in all four nema 17 motors is essential! I check this one every other month or so
-Extruder motor:

-X, Y, and Z axis:
Animated gif of how this works: http://imgur.com/gallery/1lbpl
--I use the frame of the printer to help with this.
--using G0 commands, I get the extruder or build plate where I want. G0 X0 moves the extruder to far left. G0 X200 moves it to far right. You can do G0 X100 Y100 Z50 to move the extruder to the middle, the build plate to the middle, and the extruder to be 50mm above the build plate
--our printer dimensions are X:200mm, Y:200mm, Z:180mm
--I move the extruder with G0 X80
--Have a friend hold the caliber against the right frame and open it so it fits against the right side of the extruder assembly.
--Hit ZERO on the caliper
--move the extruder with G0 X180 (moves it 100mm to the right, towards the caliber)
--Look at the caliber to determine how far it moved
--Use the same formula from the extruder motor esteps above and adjust the X esteps
--Rinse and repeat for all three axis until you get within .1 of the distance.
--NOTE: My printer was considerably off, especially on the Z axis. It went 92mm instead of the 100mm! That means my printer wasn't going high enough for the amount of plastic being extruded.

PID Tuning for good consistent temperatures:
-I have saved off all my PID settings for each of the temperatures I use. When I change filaments, I ensure I change the PID tuning to match.

Z leveling: I use the printed z alignment bars

acceleration and jerk:

Measure filament width!
-Using the micrometer, I measure the filament before I slice it. If it's within .01, I keep my slicer settings at 1.75. If it's off by more, I enter that value. You'd be surprised how much it's off.
-This is more important when you're printing larger items. If the width is off, it means you end up under or over extruding plastic

Glass bed prep: NOTHING…PEI is magic :)

Doing all of this takes time and patience. I learned a ton and had fun doing it. Were there points where I was frustrated as hell? Absolutely! I'm happy with the fact that I spent less than half of what my friend spent and I'm getting quality prints consistently. I do have to dial my slicer settings in sometimes due to how the models print or new type or color of filament.
I hope this helps. I know it seems like a lot and I spent as much on the upgrades as I did the printer, but it's worth it. I'm still at half the cost of the higher end printers.

Wanhao I3 Filament Guide for Top Spool Holder
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Locker for Wanhao I3 Filament Guide for Top Spool Holder
by JonBAL
Wanhao i3 PSU Cover 120mm Fan Adapter With MOSFET
Updated Wanhao i3 V2.1 Sainsmart 2 in 1 Adapter mount
Super Simple Belt Tensioner
by berky93
Wanhao i3 V2.1 Titan Aero with BLTouch mount
Wanhao i3 Clip on Raspberry Pi Octoprint Case
Wanhao i3 tool holder
Dual Z-axis alignment bars
Wanhao Di3 Camera Mount + 2020 Mount

Looks like he is using these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549403 I use them too and they are great.


Works great thank you

I love this thing. Good work. The only comment I have for change is to add a small lip to the end of the piece that slides through the frame. This would keep it from sliding forward and coming out. Great idea for an add-on for this printer!!

I can add a version that extends out a small bit. Will be a week before I can get to it, but I'll put it up as soon as I'm done. :)

what a clever idea utilising the gaps at the top of the printer cheers

I need to put the 5 hex keys that come with the printer

What about adding the 5 hex key holes?

Added the holes to the model. I made them a little larger than the wrenches. Hope this works for you.


why did you make it larger though?
I thought we want a tight fit, not too tight though so it is hard to remove but enough so it won't vibrate.

Can you test if the keys vibrate and makes any noise?

it's not a lot larger, just a little. :)

I printed the hollow cube and didn't notice any issues.

I can add that. I didn't add it originally because I rarely use them and they sit in my electronics tool bag. :)

Comments deleted.

AAAA+++++++++++++++ would buy again!