Boucle 50 mm x 55 mm Sac à dos Quechua Forclaz 30 L - Backpack buckle 50 mm x 55 mm

by bebenlebricolo, published

Boucle 50 mm x 55 mm Sac à dos Quechua Forclaz 30 L - Backpack buckle 50 mm x 55 mm by bebenlebricolo Feb 26, 2017
7 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps

Design Tools

Catia V5

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

63250Views 10562Downloads Found in Sport & Outdoors


These buckles were designed to match as closely as possible the original design of those originally clamped on my backpack. Also, they were designed with 3D printing in mind, hence i had to make changes to the primary functional design in the aim to print it better.

Here is the original CAD file location :

At the moment stuff is still a bit messy, however feel free to share, improve and fork this project as you like. Just remember to respect the CERN OHL license terms under which i've licensed the files.

http://www.ohwr.org/attachments/2388/cern_ohl_v_1_2.txt here is a link redirecting to the official hosting website of the license.

You may also find its trace in this video, posted by Thomas Sanladerer where you can see the supports removal. Thanks to him.

---- Specifications ----
50 mm (actual 47 mm wide) x 55 mm Buckle - Replacement part - Decatlhon Forclaz 30 Litres
Both parts (male and female) + improved male part (2 more springs) and virtual assembly for validation purposes (design)

I made a replacement part for the broken piece of my backpack. The original one have been overstressed and broke at the attachement area of the backpack strap.
Then i used my CAD software to make a replacement part, keeping as much as I could the original measures of the original part. I finally made a virtual assembly design to correct the little measurement mistakes, and make some improvements of the design.

---- Fr ----
J'ai conçu cette pièce en suivant les cotes de la pièce d'origine (qui provient d'un sac de randonnée de marque Décathlon, de la gamme Forclaz 30 L) pour remplacer la pièce d'origine (boucle femelle). Les deux boucles se veulent aussi proches que possible des pièces originales, en termes de design. J'ai également effectué un assemblage virtuel "à blanc" pour tester la conception, corriger les erreurs de mesures et effectuer quelques améliorations.

Print Settings


Prusa i3 Rework






0.3 (best) or 0.2 mm


100% (max rigidity)


These parts might by printed laying flat on the 3D printer bed (biggest side of the part). This will help the buckle to withstand mechanical stress thanks to the lining of the filament fibers (they should be aligned with the X axe of the part, then the mechanical load could be easily handled by the fibers).

---- Fr -----
Ces deux pièces doivent être imprimées à plat, selon leur plus grand côté. La répartition de la charge mécanique sera bien meilleure si les couches sont dans le même plan que le plan de la charge principale (plan xy, avec une composante majorante sur l'axe X).

Print Instructions

Male buckle part (easy one)

Male buckle part :

Nothing too hard for this part. I ended with many functionnal parts using Cura and Sli3r. Just make sure to enable supports (and brim / raft for ABS because of the small footprint of the part).
I recommend using pillar structure with Slic3r as they are really easy to remove, and make sure to correctly tweak the gap distance between the support structure and the actual piece.

Support settings (Slic3r):
0.2 mm Z spacing and 2.5 mm pattern spacing.
3 interface layers.
ABS 220 deg Hot end / 70 deg bed

Female buckle (hard part)

This part is much more tricky than the male one.
Be sure to use supports, but with a big spacing pattern (15 mm for me) to make it easy to remove (the inside of the buckle is quite inaccessible ). I also used Honeycomb structure instead of pillars, and made the Z spacing and interface layers higher than the default values.

Support settings :
0.35 mm Z spacing
15 mm spacing
Honeycomb pattern
3 to 5 interface layers

Overhang threshold : 0 (set Slic3r to automatic mode, it saved my print! )

More from Sport & Outdoors

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

I printed this in PLA with supports. It fits together well and looks pretty good.
It fits a 1 1/2 inch webbing which will hold several hundred pounds.
This buckle is much too weak for this size of webbing and fails with about 10 lbs in PLA. Would be stronger in nylon but I can't see strong enough as it is right now. The weak point is where the male part attaches to the buckle.

Hi! Thanks for your feedback, i also noticed weak points at the base of the male's arms/teeth (don't know how to call them..).
They usually broke while bending the arms, never tried to put them on huge loads after all ^^'
At the moment i unfortunately don't have the time to improve those points and i only tried to reproduce the original design as is.
I read we could improve the PLA resistance by heating it for quite a while at low to medium temperatures, haven't try it yet though.

The last possibility available is to tweak the original CAD files i provided on the github account, maybe it would be helpful?

Thanks again for your feedback,


Hi bebenlebricolo!

can you share the original file you generated in Catia?

Thanks in advance

Hello ! Yes for sure, however I haven't cleaned my working tree yet so it's quite messy inside (no functions has a proper name, everything is referred to as generic stuff (pad.00034, extrude.00384,etc..)). It's not quite clear at the moment...and I'm not 100% sure I'll clean everything up as I'm currently spending my energy on another project.

Nevertheless I will upload it as it is now on my github, I just have to find the right hardware licensing for this. I'll post an update as soon as it's done ( I hope I'll have it done in the weekend).

Take care and stay tuned,
Peace !

Now it should be ok. You will find the files under the description (github project links).
Have a nice week!


I love this design idea. But I would like to have it designed for 3D printing with PLA - original is with Nylon therefore much stronger. Maybe thicker where the webbing attaches?

Hi! First, sorry for the delay.
As asked recently, I will upload the. Catpart and. Catproduct used to generate the stl files.

I had this buckle printed correctly many times out of standard medium quality PLA... However the final print is far too stiff for a daily used buckle (in my opinion). I think cracks propagates super fast in this configuration and you end with a broken part too quickly, hence I still recommend ABS or -much better - nylon.

Also, I ended with an ABS broken piece too, the male part seems to be quite fragile at the moment. I hope the free plans will be improved by people as soon as they are uploaded

Really hard to print!
I'm going to try printing it upside down and and maybe make the bottom flat to the print plate so that no supports are needed.
Maybe also I'll try moving the springs so I can create a bridge across the centre.
Have you successfully printed it?

Hello ! I finally made the male piece, with slic3r and a 0.3mm resolution, 210 degrees PLA and the result is much better than expected. I had no difficulty to break the support pieces and even if the structure is a bit rough, it looks quite satisfying to me.
Although, I spent most of the preparation time choosing the right setup parameters for the print...
Have you managed to get yours right ?

Yes the Male piece prints fine, although like I say, I reckon shaving the webbing grip down a bit looking at the voids would mean it would print upside down without any support at all!
The hard part is the female part, as the side-walls are a bit thin to be self standing when they print (they disintegrate and are not strong enough to withstand pressure from insertion) and of course the bridging is really large (although surprisingly that's structurally fine, just messy internally.) Again, printing upside down and flattening the down side would mean no supports required.
I printed in ABS @ .25 with 235 deg extrusion and 95 deg bed at 100mm/s

Hi sir! I finally got the perfect pieces i was heading for these last days.
I used .3 mm layer, 220 deg ABS / 70 deg bed 60 mm /s with nicely tweaked support materials (Slic3r 's honeycomb with 15 mm pattern spacing and automatic overhang threshold).
Seems to be working quite well and both pieces are perfectly functionnal.
Made some continuous improvements on male ( 2 mm longer and wider) and female part (thicker side walls and thicker base part to withstand a greater stress).
Again, thanks for your precious feedback, you spotted right!

PS : We may try to print it vertically, as you advised. I would be curious to see if the layers are correctly melting to one another.

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.