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CoreXY Frame (v.2.0)

by Lehaiver, published

CoreXY Frame (v.2.0) by Lehaiver Feb 26, 2017

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Summary

Printable parts for the CoreXY Frame based on the concept from FABtotum (without crossing belts).

!!! Prototype. Not tested.
Ver.2.1 for 5mm slot 2020 extrusion: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2266282
Extruder mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253311
CAD: https://grabcad.com/library/corexy-frame-v-2-0-1
Ver.1.0: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1811983


20x20 aluminium profile 6mm slot for a 5mm slot search ver.2.1 in my Things
MGN12 linear rail 3 pcs. + MGN12-H/C carriage block 3 pcs. (Ref. link: http://ali.pub/vnk2s)
// for MGN9 rail + MGN9-H/C search "v2_X_bot_plate_MGN9_LR.STL"
GT2 6mm belt
(length depends of the desired work area - calculations on the picture)


GT2 pulley 20 teeth 2 pcs.
F694ZZ ball bearing 16 pcs.
2020 internal L-joint 4 pcs.

4x 40mm countersunk M4 screws (gantry)
4x 25mm countersunk M4 screws (gantry idler bearings)
10x 10mm buttontop M4 screws (motor mounts, corner idler bearing mounts, gantry rail mounts)
2x 30mm socketcap M4 screws (corner idler bearings)
2x M4 0.5mm washers (corner idler bearings)
8x M4 Nuts (gantry idler bearings)
8x 10mm buttontop M3 screws (NEMA17 motors)
8x 6mm buttontop M3 screws (MGN12H linear rail)

There are also 2 pins that are 26mm long x 4mm diameter which is placed through the bottom of the corner idler bearing mounts and are what the bearing spin on, and is held in place in the part by the aluminum extrusion when it's screwed down. No idea where to get something like this, but you could always take a 26mm M4 screw and dremel off the head of the screw.
(For the 26mm pins you can use also 26mm pieces of 4mm welding electrode with coating material removed. Or https://www.amazon.com/26mm-6325-Dowel-Alloy-Steel/dp/B01I0BDG06)
(Many thanks for BOM to Turner Hayes http://www.thingiverse.com/tomasro/)

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Great job done. Can you tell me how it will be done with M5 Bolts bcoz all my hammer nuts are M5. AN dI have 100 of them.
please help

May be you'll try to print all parts with 4+ perimeters and drill all mount-holes with a 5mm drill-bit

Wanting to build one of these for plasma cutting using openrail 1500mm c beam, and linear rails. Is there a way to scale this for a thicker belt and nema 23s?

All CAD files on GrabCAD so... there is a way

Hello Lehaiver
Very nice design, I would like to build it too, but to me in the country, Romania, I do not find F694ZZ,
I have access to the following bearings
F624zz
F604zz
F623zz
If you could make modifications for this type of bearings
Best regards Petrus

Hello! Thank you.
F694ZZ - 11 mm diam. With the belt on it - the outer diam. is equal with diam. on the 20 teeth pulley. So the belts arranges in parallel. Try to learn the SolidWorks, it is easy enough and you'll make all the modifications by yourself. The link on CAD files is at Thing details... But find the right bearings is less time consuming )

Классная вещь. Подскажите пожалуйста. Какие точно у вас стоят MGN12C или MGN12H?

Could this be used as a ZX setup? Or are belts no good to bring the z up and down that way on mgn12 rails?

I think, this frame as CoreZX is too heavy for the fast movements (3 * MGN12H carriages + 1 rail on X + profile + extruder weight = about 1-1.5kg)

Can you please advise what do you mean by 6mm slot? I am using the Openbuilds 2020 profile like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2020-V-Slot-Aluminium-Extrusion-Black-2000mm-20x20-3D-Printer-CNC-V-Slot-/112376927945?hash=item1a2a2fd6c9:g:WQ8AAOSwc1FXYRmW

But I cannot see if this is 5mm or 6mm type. Please advise

Anyone tried this over a longer distance? Wanting to make a 4ft x 4ft plasma table.

I used all the X-axis parts for a custom CoreXY build I made (Used openbuild's metal NEMA17 motor mounts and metal pulley mounts instead of the ones here). Works great. I had a little trouble with the titan extruder mount you provide here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253311). It required a bit of filing to slide the 2 pieces together and the 2 slide in nuts were a little tight (ended up heating them with a soldering iron and pushing them in, which worked for the most part). The other issue is that the face (which extends all the way down, where you slide the bottom against is a little thin... and since the fit between the 2 was so tight, I broke a couple before I got it right (didn't want to over-file and end up with a loose connection, but if it was just a little too tight, was impossible to get out without breaking the main piece... which isn't the quickest re-print either). But using your extruder mount was intended to only be temporary, just for the initial build... I really want to mount 2 titans (probably 1 normal, 1 mirrored).... and connect it to a chimera/cyclops.... or if I can figure out a clean way to do it, just run a dual titan aero (1 mirrored)... but that might be a little harder due to the 20x20 rail under the x-axis. Gonna try to figure this out soon, I really want to run dual extruders, and hoping to do direct drive (seems to be much more reliable and gives you more filament options than dealing with a bowden setup).

Thanks for the great models, definitely made my first custom printer build go a lot easier (even tho I only used half of the modes).

Extruder Mount (for the CoreXY Frame v.2.0)

Ha! Damn cool project! Planned to do something similar so looking at your variant got some good ideas. Also glad to see someone else thinking similar.

Would love to see a remix for this with 3030 extrusion and 16t pulleys on the steppers

16t pulleys work fine for me. Also, while obv totally up to you, in my experience, 20x20 definitely does the job more than well enough... I have roughly 500mm sides, and have no problems at all. I had originally thought of going 30x30, or 20x40 (at least in some spots), but after building with purely 20x20... I don't see the need. Given, I went a little overboard on all my hardware bracing the 20x20 together (probably have 2 times what I need to do the job), but cant hurt.... that's also the route I'd recommend, if you are worried about rigidity, just brace the frame together a little more than necessary.

Again, totally up to you, just figured I'd share my experience. I have a 300x300 build plate, with some extra space to account for multiple direct drive extruders, etc. I think 20x20 would still be fine for a 400x400 build volume... maybe if I was going with 500+ per a side build volume I'd upgrade to something more than the 20x20.... but I haven't decided to do anything crazy like that yet. My next build is actually gonna be smaller (maybe 200x300) but fully enclosed. Also, it seems easier to find models centered around 20x20 than it is for 30x30 (worth considering).... though I am finally starting to model all my own stuff, piece by piece, as necessary. Working on multiple direct drive titan extruders (Probably gonna make one that supports cyclops/chimera as well as just 2 v6's, and possibly a very different one that is dual aero) that'll work with the belt clamps used in this design right now.

agreed 2020 is fine. I have just already built a Hypercube Evolution (uses 3030) and this would basically drop right on top. I am a fan of overengineering things :-)

Haha, makes total sense.... I definitely have been over engineering these as well
(using about 4 times the bracing I probably need... but this this is as solid as a rock). I might actually be getting some 20x40 for my next upgrade, considering adjusting a few of my mounts to make everything internal (ie the motors and the corner pulley mounts that I'm using)... that way I can pretty much just bolt on some plexiglass sides and make this thing fully enclosed. I've learned that having even heat distribution is one of the MOST important things, especially for larger prints.... I made the mistake of buying a knock-off keenovo silicon heater my first time.... I both replaced that with a REAL Keenovo heater (highly recommended, and you def want to order directly from them, otherwise chances are its not a real one) and got a much thicker aluminum be (full 1/4" this time).... huge improvement. If I enclose this thing, should make printing certain materials (especially Nylons) much easier.

need a remix for titan aero

Hello i love your design other then I could only get these kind of bearing and was wounding if you would remix the idler?

Thanks for the design and if you remix

I have these two types i can use .
Flanged Flange Deep Groove Ball Bearings
Size: F625ZZ-5x16x5mm

and

GT2 Pulley 20 Without Teeth Pulley Timing Gear Bore 5MM For GT2 belt Width 6MM
Dimension: 9mm x 18mm

https://www.robotdigg.com is using your design at homepage :) congrats

Will version 2 work with https://faz-store.myshopify.com/collections/10-series-extrusion/products/10ex1010 ? The Stuff I purchased with the 5mm slot is too hard to work with (not many types of proper t nuts made for it)

1"x1"? 25.4mm is not 20mm, so, I think, it will not.

I really really like your idea, but it forces to use a one motor solution for the Z due to the rails under the frame. I think a better solution could be to put the rails on the sides: this way you have less force on the joint between the rails and the printed parts and free the lower part of the frame to use with a multipoint solution for the Z, what do you think?

There is still room for uprights. If you mount on the outsides you cant put up enclosure panels and inside you loose travel.

5RAILS CORE XY 3D Printer

Thank you. It just a XY frame and the main target was to built a laser engraver, so I did't thought about Z-axis =). About Z and 3D printer... for example: it can be build on 40x20 profile, or this XY frame inside an another "box" frame - it adds more stability to all the construction.

How abut a version for 20x20 with milled surfaces (for the X and 2 Y rails)? (https://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302685660/?Inch=0) which is 20x19.2 according to misumi... and the milled surface is what misumi recommends for mounting linear guide rails.

Well, I don't see the problem

I guess there really isn't one... was thinking the 2 pieces on the ends of the x rail might need to be tweaked... but now that I think about it you are right, they should be fine.

Great setup. I'm planning to build a CoreXY printer... gonna use something along the lines of this design for the X/Y axes... tho I'm planning to use as many metal components as possible instead of the printed components you have. I have 3 HIWIN 350mm linear rails and am planning on using 20x20 t slot from misumi for some of the overall frame... but I am considering beefing up parts by using 20x40. If I go that route, I thin kI'm gonna use the 20x40 for all 5 pieces of the CoreXY. For the x and both y sides that the linear rails ill mount to, I was planning to use the 20x40 horizontally, getting milled pieces from misumi (what they recommend for mounting linear rails) and on the y's, mount the linear rails on the inside bottom halfs. As for the x, I think I'd have the rail mounted on the side that the extruder and the pieces would go.

I'm also planning to use 20x40 for the 4 vertical edges. Then I was gonna make 2 layers at the bottom using 20x20.... haven't decided how far apart yet... but somewhere in the 50mm range... my plan is to build a drawer on the bottom to put all my electronics in... then get 2 pieces of aluminum sheets.... one fr the base, and on for the base of the main build area.

If you can understand what I am describing... would love to hear your thoughts... is the 20x40 completely unnecessary.. or even a bad idea... or could it be beneficial for rigidity, hopefully increasing print quality. I plan to build a simple model of the frame I just described in fusion 360... that way I'll have a simple reference when figuring out all the sizes of extruded aluminum that I'll need to complete the build.

Hello.

Are the details suitable for MGN12 and MGN9, or should they be altered?

The difference is only in bot_plate.stl (for mgn9 use v2_X_bot_plate_MGN9_LR.stl)

Hello...Great Design, and i will build it now for my new Printer with 300X300X400. But i dont have MGN12-H carriage with 20mm Distance lengthwise for the threads (In the HIWIN Drawing C=20mm), i have a MGN12-C compatible Schneeberger Minirail carriage with 15mm thread distance lengthwise (In the HIWIN Drawing C=15mm). So the Part v2_bot_plate_2.STL dontt fit. Is it possible to draw that part for the MGN12-C with the 15mm thread-distance lengthwise?
I don`t want to buy new guides, cause i have a lot of Schneeberger MGN guides and carriages on hand here.
Thanks a lot for helping.

What profile are you planning to buy (5mm or 6mm slot)? In the 2.1 version (for 5mm slot) there is universal model of the "bot_plate" for both carriages (20x20 and 15x20mm). Added it just now.

I have bought the profiles already...they are with 6mm slot. Thats the problem :-)

Ok, I'll make it for v2.0. Give me 10 minutes)

Check v2_X_bot_plate_LR.stl

Wow...Thanks a lot...you are awesome :-) :-) Great!!

Thank you for your illustration of the belt design with different colors. I've been having trouble getting printed parts and now I can visualize how to make them by hand so I can print myself the final version.

This is a very nice project! May i use this with my open source project with a special thanks for you? Do you have a model with the F623ZZ bearing used in delta modela? Thanks.

Sure.
What you mean "used in delta", do you have an example?

Hi there, I got a used FT-5 and I am not too happy with it.
Is there any way to adapt this design to the FT-5?
If anyone is willing to help me in my task it would be awesome.
Thank you.

What is the problem with original construction? Kinematics?

Yes, it uses double Y stepper for speed but I don't like the idea, it might end up skipping steps and getting unaligned easy.

I think a CoreXY build is more elegant and stable, besides using less stepper motors. I have some spare nema 23 and 34 so I might even get away with using only 1 motor for Z

Printed this, got the extrusion in, and it's all too tight :(

Is the gap in your extrusion 5mm or 6mm?

Just over 5mm. It's the 80/20 brand series 20 extrusion

Print a calibration cube (20x20x20mm bigger is better, or something like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:170922) and check its final dimentions. Correct them in slicer (+ - %) or by changing the steps_per_mm in printer's firmware. All parts have just +0.1mm clearance, so the accuracy of printing should be high enough.

Calibration Cube&Circle 10mm and 20mm Version
by xammax

My calibration cube came out spot on. I wonder if us 80/20 is different. It's got a 5.1mm slit

I got mine from Grainger and it's 5.2 slot gap. The design is intended for 6mm slot gap, so it won't fit. Take it into Fusion360 and shrink the parts that go into the slots by 0.5mm from each size. It'll be tight, but it will be perfect

Cool. That's what I did was just sort of a pain. Are you doing a Z axis? trying to come up with a good way for ball screws and a super large platform. Doing 550mm rails in x and y. Haven't decided Z yet. Where did you get your t nuts? All the ones on amazon are for the larger slot openbuilds rails :(

I'm using 4x 500mm MGN12H's for the Z-guide rails along each corner, and 600mm lead screws (4 start) for the Z-axis, inspired by the D-bot design. I made my own t-nuts with M3 and M4 nuts. They are much cheaper, but if you use M3, the nuts and potentially pull through the gap in the extrusion, but it will be a very solid connection, just not very mobile, and you will have to replace the nut..

Hi, I'm updating my printer. Your circuit just came up, thank you. But there are a couple of questions about washers on bearings. In the list of the desired you have indicated 2 washers m4, is it for dividing by two belts? At the same time I collect the D-bot, there the instruction has such a description of the flange bearing> washer> flange barring. If you separate the bearings themselves, then you need 4 washers .. There will be a friction force between them.
привет, занимаюсь обновлением своего принтера. Ваша схема как раз подошла, спасибо. Но есть пару вопросов о шайбах на подшипниках. В списке нужного вы указали 2 шайбы м4, это для разделения по двум ремням ? Параллельно собираю Д-бот, там в инструкции есть такое описание flange bearing > washer > flange бэринг. Если разделять сами подшипники то нужно 4 шайбы..Ведь между ними будет сила трения.

Привет,
Не переживай, ничего тереть там не будет если не брать шайбы диаметром равным диаметру подшипника, ведь шайба опирается на внутреннее кольцо подшипника которое стоит на месте (вертится же только обойма). Или я не правильно вопрос понял? А вообще, я не вижу необходимости там вообще какие-то шайбы ставить, все вроде плотнячком начерчено, если только для удовлетворения внутреннего перфекциониста)) Кстати для этих целей можно найти подходящую по внутреннему диаметру и толщине проволоки пружинку, отрезать от нее один виток (колечко) и проложить между подшипниками, чтоб упиралась аккурат только во внутреннее кольцо подшипника не выходя за его пределы.
По поводу того что в списке указано - даже не знаю, ребята кто собирают - помогают с наполнением БОМ листа, я же эту конструкцию пока не собирал, так что если начнешь и возникнут трудности - пиши, помогу.

Ну да скорее, для внутреннего перфекциониста, но с другой стороны - дьявол в деталях , ньюансы...С core xy только знакомлюсь и поэтому спросил про это. Вот этот принтер адаптирую Flyingbear-P902. Осталось только внутренняя направляющая , заказал карбоновый профиль 20х20, опять же наверно для перфекциониста, но точность , вибрации , все прочее зависит от веса, планирую титан экструдер на него поставить, естественно все на рельсах ( а они не легкие). Каретку так же вашу попробую, надеюсь с титаном состыкуется ...Ой а там у вас на мгн9 крепление

Каретку нарисую любую, только пришли размеры точные экструдера самого
Давай в личку

Note: this design works with 2020 T-slot Aluminum extrusion with 6mm spacing (not 5mm spacing like I got - remix in the works)

Hi Lahaiver- thanks for sharing! I have cadded up a 3D printer version using this design, full Onshape CAD files are here: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/58c0e9de910b980f78db313a/w/f2cc9715f90baade4735c223/e/94a5242ec921dd91f2257e06

Once fully printed and tested, will publish to Thingiverse as a Remix of your work.

You can export parts back to Solidworks from Onshape.

Cool! I printed all of his parts. Waiting on bearings to come in.

This looks like a nice setup. I'll be experimenting with using it on my MGN9 based machine
.

Of course I printed all of this for the mgn9 and the holes are off for the MGN9CH.Also you need screw lengths and nut sizes. Could you add the mgn9 part on grabcad please? :)

Sure. Check it where
Screws and nuts - standard DIN sizes

Sorry Lehaiver, that wasn't very helpful. I'm building one of these right now, and here's what I've found you need:

4x 40mm countersunk M4 screws (gantry)
4x 25mm countersunk M4 screws (gantry idler bearings)
10x 10mm buttontop M4 screws (motor mounts, corner idler bearing mounts, gantry rail mounts)
2x 30mm socketcap M4 screws (corner idler bearings)
2x M4 0.5mm washers (corner idler bearings)
8x M4 Nuts (gantry idler bearings)
8x 10mm buttontop M3 screws (NEMA17 motors)
*12x 6mm buttontop M3 screws (MGN12H linear rail)
M4 washers
M3 washers

There are also 2 pins that are 26mm long x 4mm diameter which is placed through the bottom of the corner idler bearing mounts and are what the bearing spin on, and is held in place in the part by the aluminum extrusion when it's screwed down. No idea where to get something like this, but you could always take a 26mm M4 screw and dremel off the head of the screw.

**Found 'em: they are called Dowel Pins and you can find them here: https://www.amazon.com/26mm-6325-Dowel-Alloy-Steel/dp/B01I0BDG06

Thanks a lot!
For the 26mm pins you can use also 26mm pieces of 4mm welding electrode with coating material removed

THX for your collection, do you have finish your edition? I'm going to make one.....BUT, I'm confused that how to fix the corner idler bearings on the printed part....Could you please tell me something about this?

The 26mmx4mm pin slides in through the bottom of the part, through the flanged bearings and seats at the top of the piece. The aluminum extrusion will sandwich it in place once it is screwed down to the frame. The cad files show this pretty well, but it's hard to tell from the STL files

Added picture (cut).

perspective Pic is very helpful, THX for your work!

Don't forget the 16 flanged bearings and handful of m4 washers (can't tell if they are 0.5mm or 1mm) for the BOM

Thanks a lot!

After printing and playing with some of this it would be nice if the y extrusion fit inside the x so you could move them closer inwards so you could build an exerior cage/enclosure around it. Also allowing for aluminum plates on the top or bottom or with the y rails moved a cm or 2 in from the outside of the x you could put corner braces there.

Would MGN 9s work? I have a ton :(

v2_MGN9_bot_plate.STL
X=XML+80mm

Printing all the parts now in clear PETG. Now I just need the extrusion and some sort of Z :p I do have a spare laser I could use on this until then!

Comments deleted.

Woah awesome! I'm going to have to try this now :)

Any chances to have a modified version for the MGN15 linear rails? It could help for bigger printers.

thank you!

Thank you for sharing your work! I can't figure out how to dimension all the things starting from the build area I'd like to have, for example, for a 300x300 mm base how long should be, more or less, the MGN X and Y length? The image in the project is useful for cut the aluminium profiles, but it starts from the MGNs length.

Thank you again!!!

Hello!
(MGN rail length) - (MGN carriage length) = (max travel length on each axis)
Also you should know the size of the tool that you will use (laser enclosure or smth else)

Nice- thanks for the rework. I'll see if I can design a full CoreXY printer from this in Onshape. Love the clean design.

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