This is a new version of the Modular Castle Kit - Lego Compatible, a kit to assemble Lego compatible modules into castles and strongholds. You can print just one, several or all components and then play at castle construction, mixing in your own Lego. You can hook together modules like in the picture used to advertise this thing (use simple Lego bricks as connectors) or you can create much wilder "mix with any Lego" structures or you could create a village with different buildings. Some modules are designed to be stacked on top of each other.
- Heights are more standardized
- Lego Persona fit inside the rooms
- New components
There are three types of components:
(1) with easy to print base plate,
(2) with Lego-compatible base plate (stackable)
(3, new) "lighter" stackable versions (better vertical fit, faster print)
I printed most, but not all of the modules. However, I then also made some minor changes to most of the printed ones and there still may be a few minor glitches. Please examine a thing before you print it.
When I have time (not likely in the very near future) I will provide some online documentation.
Make sure that the first layer sticks well, in particular when printing Lego-compatible bases (nibbles underneath). A few things to to:
- Make your first layer 125-150% or something that is equivalent. Most platforms are uneven (0.05mm waves do have an impact) and you will have to compensate for that.
- Add glue to the platform (e.g. Pritt extra strong) or hairspray
- Add 10 degs or more to standard printing temperature, e.g. PLA at 205
- Move the print head closer to the platform, e.g. for my self-calibrating printer I add this to the end of the start code: G1 Z-.05 F3000 or sometimes G1 Z-.1 F3000. On a non calibrating printer, place two sheets of paper on the bed and make sure that the print head can move the upper sheet in every position, but without scratching.
- You could use a raft for the modules that have 2x2 Lego feet, but removing these is a pain...
- Go very slowly for the first layer (about 15% of your normal speed).
- Go slowly for the second layer (if your slicer allows)
- Medium speed for the rest, e.g. 50mm/s or faster
Shells and layers:
- 3 shells
- 4 top layers (3 also can do)
- 3 or 4 bottom layers.
Rafts and support
- In principle, you do not need any form of support structure. Getting non-solvable plastic sticks out of Lego bases is too much of a pain... All important angles are steep enough and don't require wasting plastic inside of the towers.
- However, we recommend printing the wizard tower on Lego feet with a raft (see one of the attached pictures). Also, make sure that Z dimension of your printer can handle these small and long towers.
Tune your settings with the included standard 4x2 calibration brick.
One tower takes about 6 hours to print with these settings. I do not recommend printing with lower resolution because wait will be longer. If you print modules with a base plate, you can easily print 4 towers at the same time, in about a day.
- Avoid printing with warping plastic (e.g. ABS) or PLA that has lots of paint inside (it may warp and not stick)
- If you print pieces with Lego feet or bases, you really must make sure that the first layer sticks well. Best strategies are (a) calibrating the platform (b) 150 layer thickness (c) less than 10mm/s. After the third layer you can go much faster.
- Beginners could start printing towers that have flat bottoms.
Fit with real Lego (TM)
Fit is about right for printing with 0.25 resolution and medium-fast quality printing. The blocks are maybe a bit too tight for fit with Lego. In that case, heat the piece with a heat gun (or maybe a strong hair dryer), then gently press onto Lego (TM). If the fit is too loose, change the slicer settings (or much better, generate your own version with OpenSCAD).
Print the 4x2 Lego calibration brick first.
I am not much of a 3D modeler and do not spend much time on it. My design goal was to create something that helps kid's imagination and constructive mind and that is (fairly) easy to print. The first version was created in 2012 using our Doblo Factory code ().
I used this library to create several other things, e.g. the thesis project management kit published here (thing:33001)
In 2012/13, Daniel M. Taub refactored the Doblo code (great work) and added some extra functionality. In 2013/2015 I made some minor modifications to it, but I never got the hang of github :(
I finally decided redoing this Lego kit since I noticed that it is still popular :)
OpenSCAD code / tuning / creating
I only included the scad file that generates these blocks. It gives you an idea on how these modules are built. A typical tower includes mostly about 20-30 function calls, generating Lego block elements plus some openScad "hand code".
If you download the full Doblo Factory code (http://edutechwiki.unige.ch/en/Doblo_factory, also see the URL in the scad) file, you can:
- tune dimensions, e.g. various Lego-compatible nibble and wall thickness parameters (lib/doblo-params.scad)
- produce DUPLO structures instead (SCALE=1;) (example_castle_kit/castle_generation.scad)
- create your own castle modules (ext/castle-kit-2-0.scad)