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Rostock Max Dual Extruder Mount

by JolietDelta, published

Rostock Max Dual Extruder Mount by JolietDelta Dec 28, 2013
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Summary

Measurements have been slightly modified to compensate shrinking of ABS after printing.
Nozzle delta is X+/- 14mm relative to X0/Y0 of original extruder mounting plate.

Version "V2_mod" aka "old Skully" has X +/- 13mm and greater notches for the heater- and thermistor wires.

Version "V3" aka "crimson hun" has also X +/- 13mm. It includes a cooling solution for the PEEK. I tried it successfully with one single 25x20mm high-power fan. With 25x10mm models, you should use two of them. This version is quiet good to print. I printet it with a .35mm nozzle at .15mm layer height using black ABS.
"V3" requires the "Spacer_New_V3".
Edit: .STL File updated - Slic3r had some issues with the old version.

Version "V4" aka "why-didn't-I-think-about-this-earlier" has the spacers included. This is the Version I actually use here (with two 25x20mm fans). Note: I had to make some changes to the Repetier FW (0.83) in order to use one fan output (FAN2) for cooling the PEEKs, wether heater 1 or heater 2 (or both) is in use.

One issue that will occure is the "swiveling" of the effector plate while moving from the center of the bed to the outer areas. This is no problem with one extruder (centric mounted). With two extruders and the relative delta-x, it is a real challange to get rid of the ever changing Z-alingnment. I minimized this effect by tweaking the "END_EFFECTOR_HORIZONTAL_OFFSET" definition in Repetier's configuration. Just play around with it and watch what happens.

Maybe a "V5" with a 40mm fan mount/duct for cooling PLA prints will follow soon. :-)

Instructions

I recommend printing with ABS. I print at .15 layer height and with reduced speed.
After the printing you may have to sand the spacers a little bit in order to make them the same height. The amount of sanding depends much on your printer's calibration and on the material you have used. The holes for the Extruders should be tight fitting. If there is play, wrap aluminIum foil arround the extruders.

Sand the main hole of the effector plate in order to gain some space between the extruder hot end and the effector material. Else you may just burn it away. About 4 mm of space is ok. I used a 10 mm hobbing cutter and a dremel.

Plug in the hot ends in the mount you had carefully sanded before.
Adjust the vertical alignment with shims of aliminium foil. Then put the ends out again.

Now assemble the fans to the mount. I did this using M2 x 30 mm screws and self-locking nuts.

Screw the mount to the effector, dont tighten the srcrews at this time, then (!) put in the hot ends and don't forget your shims. You see, there's not much space for getting the hot ends in. The cables of the thermistors and the heating cartridges should be fixed with zip ties on the elongated hole in the middle. Same for the wires of the fan(s).

Another method for vertical aligning the hot ends is using heat resistant rubber-made edge protectors. Put them between the hot end stop-plate and the mount. The squeeze together when you tighten the screws of the hot ends, yet they are stiff enough to provide a stable hold.

If you have found a better way (and surely there are better ways :-) ) for installing the SmCNC hot ends, let me know.

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How did you mount the 2nd extruder? My max v2 has the place to mount them, but the very top plate doesn't have any holes in it, how do you feed the filament?

I once ordered a kit named "add-a-struder" from SeemeCNC. It contained a top spool mount, a mount for the EZstruder and the EZstruder itself. Unfortunatelly I didn't find it on their website right now. Maybe you e-mail them and ask for the kit.

What I also consider to be good is: http://www.tricklaser.com/EZmount-KIT-for-Rostock-MAX-RM-EZMNT-KIT.htm from Tricklaser.

They still have that kit, but its for the rostock max v1, and will not work on the v2 :/

Oh... So the V2 hasn't the mounting holes on the lower top plate anymore? Because, judging from the pictures on SMCNC website, it should be the same plate/layout as the one on the V1. Only the upper plate is new. I have an V1, so I can only guess.

Worked great! Printed mine in nylon and didn't even need shims to be eyeball-level. I could improve it with more careful leveling I'm sure and a bit of fine tuning of the separation parameter in the firmware, but my first dual head print (when I got the firmware changes correct) was a total success! I double-stacked my 25mm fans on the same output and it prints PLA pretty well. I need to revisit my filament-fan mounting and firmware options though, my PEEK fans are stuck at 100% and the filament fan is not close enough to the filament to matter using the stock (well, recommended) fan. Only lost 8.7mm of height, which was nice. (I printed V4.)

...and I'm printing your filament-fan right now. Thanks for sharing. :-)

The one I posted is super low tolerance on height... I'm updating it now actually with one that is 1mm higher.

What changes have you made ??in the firmware that would use the output FAN2?

My both 25mm fans are connected to FAN1 (I use FAN2 for filament cooling, controlled with "M42"). In order to do so, I made the following changes:

In pins.h:

define HEATER_1_PIN 7 (don't remember what it was before) :-)

define FAN_PIN 2 (was: 8)

In configuration.h:

Extruder 1 Part:

define EXT0_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN 8 (was: 6 - don't double-map this to 7 for using one fan for both heater - it won't work. Better change the temp manager in Extruder.cpp.)

Extruder 2 Part:
Change HEATER_2_PIN to HEATER_1_PIN (as it was originally meant to be).

define EXT1_HEATER_PIN HEATER_1_PIN

define EXT1_EXTRUDER_COOLER_PIN 6

I love your dual solution.

How do I modify the Temp manager.

(Sorry I'm new too)

Basically by setting the Fallback-Speed from "0" to "250" (idle speed). Further I'm saving each heater's status in a global Var. With this setup I can turn on my main PEEK fan everytime when one of the both heaters is above 40C. Below 40C I'm running in idle mode (PWM 250).
As this is a mean hack, I don't dare to post it here. Without further modifications you can potentially nuke your PEEK. I'm going to make a code-push to repetier. Maybe this kind of cooling behaviour is worth an #IFDEF section in the main source fork. If not, I'm going to re-work that routine a bit, so that the implementation is more safe for unexperienced users.

I'm still a novice, but would do the following.

FAN0 for cooling filaments of the first extruder, FAN1 for cooling filaments of the second extruder.

FAN2 25mm fan that runs when the temperature of the extruder any more 40?

Well, you're free to map like you want to map. :-) The reasons why I made it this way are:
It is unlikely that one (me) wants to have two fans for every single extruder, as the airflows would mix together after the duct anyway. Only one extruder is in use at a time, so the cooling strategy for the filament can be performed by only one fan.

It is rather more likely that one (me, again) wants to have two different cooling strategies for two different PEEK/heat spreaders (heaters).
I had less work with modifying the original temp manager routine in order to gett full PEEK cooling over 40C and 80% ilde cooling under 40C. No matter which of the two heater is under fire.

The original temp manager was designed to shut off the PEEK fans of the currently idling extruder. Not very usefull when using one fan for both PEEKs. ;-)

It really doesn't matter if you plug in your fans to port F0, F1,.... They can be easily re-mapped with static definitions in the header files of repetier. Important is what functions these definitions carry out. But I thought the fans that are controlled by the heat manager should be F0/F1.

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