Anet A8 Bowden Extruder Mount

by Brogz007, published

Anet A8 Bowden Extruder Mount by Brogz007 Mar 1, 2017
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Tidier and very sturdy mount for a Bowden extruder. Designed specifically for Anet A8. Lines up nicely with your hot end too.


2 M3x25
1 M3x20
The two original M3x18 from the Anet A8 frame

The toothed wheel should be brought forward by 5mm with the smallest supplied allen key.

The centre hole is 24mm wide so up to you if you use supports.
I print nearly all my parts in 50% density so again up to you what your preferred infill is.
Printed in PLA so 'as is' 100% scale in Cura

Edit: Added left side mount.
Edit: Added original 123D file for remixing

Caution for US users:
The bowden fitting for original and clone E3Dv6's seems to be an imperial larger fitting and will not fit. The correct fitting is a PC4-M6.

Print Settings


Anet A8









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can i use the stock extruder from the anet 8 for this mount? or i need to mod something else?

Yep, you’re just moving the stock extruder motor away from the hot end to make it significantly lighter (and therefore faster). You will need an E3DV6 (genuine or clone) as that comes with the white tubing seen in the picture. You’ll also need to choose and print a new carriage/mount to hold this new style of hot end

Do you put the fan on it as well or just leave it open?

No, that fan is not needed as long as your E3D comes with that blue fan contraption.

I have a Bowden hot end installed and used this design to feed the filament. For me, it appears the filament is simply feeding through, but not pushing the required downforce into the hot end. I can manually push and its ok. Any suggestions?

Is the extruder motor spinning? And is it grinding/stripping the filament?
Try adjusting the toothed wheel so the filament goes down the white tube perfectly? Make sure the screw for the idler arm isn’t too tight and that the guide bearing is free to spin and can press the right force down on the filament

So I've been using this for a few months now with no problems. Lately I've noticed that the idler arm will not sit flush against the bracket. Eventually causing the filament to strip and stop extruding. All hardware is tight and I didn't see any signs of wear on the bracket itself. I'm using the original extruder parts from the a8, apart from the new screws. I was just wondering if you've experienced this before?

Hmm I think I did have an issue of it stripping the PLA once after I hadn't used it in a while but like the rest of the machine, it just needed tuning from the ground up again. I believe I tightened the idler arm and looosened the guide bearing to give it slight diagonal play. Just looked at mine and there is actually a 1mm gap between the spring/thumb bolt and the bracket. I suppose stronger plastic (to withstand the torsion wear from the spring) or redesigning with an outer face plate added would be ideal.
Printing it with too low an infill could definitely cause it to fail over time.

Thanks for the reply! Possibly my infill was too low. It's been a while since I've printed it, so I can't remember the settings. But I ended up mounting everything on the back side of the mount, so the extruder is against the stepper and it's been working like a charm! The hole previously for the stepper shaft to go through is now a nice view port for the filament :).

nice simple i went ahead and added a 4th hole. i intend on using it for my boden and bulldog


Encaja como un guantes en la anet a8

Simplemente espectacular :)

Un saludo y gracias por compartirlo con nosotros

works very well. thank you

will this fit Anet A6?

I meant, without modify anything cos all I got left to print is where to hold the motor in place and your one looks simple enough and no hazel


I don't own an A6 but from the photos, the top frame does look like it could be the same piece.
The distance between the centers of the two screws needed to hold my bracket is 27.5mm. If yours is the same, I think it should work. Let me know how you get on, cheers

Nope it dont fit on the Anet A6

Alright ill check it out later cheers m8

Nope, that's the right one.
Small Brass fitting is good
Large black plastic fitting is bad

The extruder looks exactly like the direct drive that's on my printer now. Did you just move it to its new location? Or is it a brand new one?

Same motor just moved to make the whole printhead significantly lighter. You will need to buy extra screws (only three needed though). And the aftermarket E3DV6 comes with the long white tube.

Thank you for your prompt reply.

That's what I thought. Yours is an elegant solution, one that I will be implementing as soon as my new hotend arrives.

Would you explain how to adjust the toothed wheel? How would one bring this toothed wheel forward by 5mm using the smallest Allen key?

My design is made of 5mm thick plastic. When you stick the motor in, you'll see the gear/cog/toothed wheel isn't sticking out enough. There is a tiny grub screw that keeps the toothed wheel attached to the motor. Use those little L shaped metal tools that came with the printer (called Allen keys) to loosen the grub screw and slide the toothed wheel out by 5mm. Tighten the grub screw and you're all good.

Ah, I see. Now that you've explained why, it makes perfect sense. And I appreciate your detailed instruction.

Thank you again.

This looks by far like the simplest setup with least amount of moving/printable parts. A+

Has anyone tried ninja flex or any other flexible material with this type of setup

You just need to insert a small piece of bowden tube next to the toothed wheel shown here


Can you upload Solidworks files?
I want to edit from A6

I created it in 123D Design. Would that help?

Yes, it could be useful for me

Can someone tell me if the Bowden tube just connects to where the extruder normally goes?

Yep, sure does. Only issue may be if you bought an original E3D as they seem to send an incorrect imperial fitting.

I actually was planning on buying this one -
And the tubing looks a bit big for the threads on where the hotend goes. Thanks for the clarification!

The fitting on that one is also too big. See the difference in the link I posted below. You'll also need a PC4-M6 fitting

Hi, I made one of these. Where did you get the pneumatic fitting for this? The one that came with my bowden setup is to big for the old heat break hole. Can you tell me which thread size you purchased? I know on the slip fitting side it's 4mm OD. Thanks!

Have you bought an E3D V6?
They come with the connector attached. The white tube always needs cutting so I stuffed the excess in the other side of the mount.
What Bowden setup are you speaking of?

Thanks for the response. Yeah, I picked up the V6 from E3D. The fitting it comes with is likely Nylon, not like the brass PC4-M6 fitting in the one that you linked to and in your picture. The threaded side on the one i got is HUGE, likely in the 1/4" range. I believe it would likely work with one of the other Bowden setups you print. I really like your design because I can use what I already have from my A8. Great job! I just ordered a PC4-M6 separately, set me back a few bucks, I feel more confident now that you recommended the same fitting a guy on the Facebook page recommended. If i may, i would suggest that you include in your description that you may need the PC4-M6 fitting as i searched long and hard to find out that is what i needed.

Hmm that's odd. Which one of these did they send to you? Couldn't see any in 1/4" size.
Just need to check that they didn't send you something they weren't meant to even stock, before I advise everyone who's buying a genuine E3D, to buy a PC4-M6 too

Sure, understandable. Here is the one I purchased. They don't show the fitting they sent me. I'll post a 'Made one' and upload a pic for you to see.


Oops, yes they actually do show a pic of the fitting they sent me under "What's in the box". The very last item.

It's odd that it's not available as an extra. I think it just comes down to imperial part into metric socket. I'll update the main page with a caution, thanks

I have absoluty none of the mentioned warping with the bed @ 60°C for the first three layers and 50°C for the rest.

Yeah, I now realise I was being lazy with the bed levelling. I'll remove that comment.

Mirroring works if you add a fourth screw hole in the bottom right corner (while looking at the front face.)

Left side part design now added

i though the original design is for the left side if you look at the machine from the front.

I'm sorry you thought that. The third picture shows the power supply below.

Original "AnetA8BowdenMount.stl" is right side above power supply

Added "BowdenLeft.stl" is left side above the mainboard

Haha yeah i got it backward no problem though, i just printed the right one and it is a nice. thank you.