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S.T.E.V.E - CoreXY 3D Printer

by CompRevTech, published

S.T.E.V.E - CoreXY 3D Printer by CompRevTech Mar 3, 2017

Summary

Want to know more about the design and assembly process?
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLWL37f39O8e8jSmrYGKiWX6iMkNlrfwSp

Join the Facebook Group for discussion + Q&A + Future updates and upgrades
https://www.facebook.com/groups/266957403761491/

See the full Bill of Materials with supplied links here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FVdSh7WRvvxo3kc_i1Jvbl6kwNt3XSbQIA1PcNw0xOk/edit#gid=0 (some affiliate links included but buy from wherever you feel comfortable)

S.T.E.V.E is an open source, single extruder, easy to modify 3D printer with a approx 240mm cubed build volume and CoreXY Kinematics. When starting to design S.T.E.V.E I just wanted to learn more about the CoreXY kinematics but things got out of hand, one thing lead to another, and I ended up designing an entire printer that I wanted to share.

He was designed with the intention of every part being easy to purchase or print, and easy to build with assistance of detailed instructions with very little needed in terms of tools. (For best results a drill and 3.5mm bit plus crimping tool for red crimp terminals would be ideal. You can probably survive without.) The obvious allen keys are also needed.

Instructions are currently in the form of PDF drawings and an extensive video guide. All the video links are down below. Some show some information about the design process, while the others explain how to assemble the printer.

One of S.T.E.V.E's most unique features is the gantry head assembly. It ensures that the centre of mass of the stepper motor is aligned as closely as possible to the rods to reduce torque on the bearings and improve print quality. The same assembly provides a modular system for adding, changing or removing different features from around the hot end such as cable management, fans, bed sensors etc.

While this isn't a remix, i'll give some credit to Tech2C and his hypercube printer. I did borrow a couple of design aspects such as the clamps used for round rods.

Frame

S.T.E.V.E's frame is constructed from standard 6mm slot 2020 aluminium extrusion, held together with M5 x 8mm Button head screws and 90 degree angle brackets. All easy to get and easy to assemble.

One key design feature of S.T.E.V.E is that all the components are kept within the rigid 2020 aluminium frame so that it is simple to enclose the printer to form a heated chamber for printing of more exotic materials. (heat resistant plastic parts also recommended)

Steppers

S.T.E.V.E uses a total of 5 NEMA 17 stepper motors, a 13Ncm pancake stepper for the extruder, 4 45Ncm D shaft steppers for the X, Y and Z motion.

Control Board

The selected control board for version 0.1 of S.T.E.V.E is the RAMPS 1.4. This will be upgraded in the future as RAMPS was mostly for prototyping.

Heated Bed

The bed is 6mm tool plate aluminium which is ideal as it has high thermal conductivity and won’t warp overtime becuase of the way it was manufactured. The Heating is provided by a 330W 230V silicon heater with a built in thermal cut off at 180C for safety (set RAMPS max to 150C).

SSR

Because the bed heater is powered through mains voltage a Solid state relay is used to control power to the bed. The low voltage side of the SSR is attached to the control board as normal and acts like a switch.

Hotend and Extruder

S.T.E.V.E uses the E3D v6 full metal universal hot end and titan extruder with a 13Ncm stepper motor to provide a lightweight, versatile and reliabile print head.

Power Supply

Since the power supply is only for the stepper motors and hot end, there is no need for 300-400W power supplies. A high quality 12V unit that can supply 80-100W should be more than enough. Closet to 100W if you want some LEDs in there too.

Special Note: Recently i have noticied that the aluminium rods for X and Y are a little too flexible. I am going to test putting Steel rods on the Y axis and see how that does. Might have to upgrade the X axis to 10mm Aluminium or 8mm steel for rigidity. Will keep you updated.

Special Note 2: Not sure what makes these notes special but i have tested with 8mm steel on the X and Y axis. I have had good results with 8mm steel rods on both axis.

Print Settings

Printer:

Any Printer will do

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0.2-0.3mm

Infill:

30-50%


Notes:

I'm not going to list precise details for how to print every part. They are all fairly simple geometric shapes with quite obvious indications of how they should be printed. I printed all of mine without support so you should be fine to do that too. Try to print all the load bearing parts with a good infill to ensure they will be strong enough.

For the material it depends on what your end goal is. If you want to end up almost fully enclosed then you'll need to use ABS or perhpas ASA. If you don't want fully enclosed then PLA or PETG would be fine. Personally i'm running all PETG at the moment. It will probably be fine once enclosed too but ABS is a safer bet.

Who is S.T.E.V.E?

S.T.E.V.E is my first full 3D printer creation.

The name stands for Superfluous Tri-dimensional Electronic Vector Extruder. The name came about when asking the 3D printing facebook group for name suggestions (yes i know, never ask the internet for name suggestions!) My two favourite suggestions were the name Steve, and making an accronym name such as JACP; Just Another Corexy Printer. So I decided to combine them into a single item and thus S.T.E.V.E was born.

Bill of Materials

V0.01

In the files list there a BOM file. A full list of parts needed for the base spec of S.T.E.V.E. I highly recommend you take a look at the PDF drawing files to get an idea of what is used where. If you want to use slightly different bearings then the PDF drawings are also a great way to get an idea of what you need to change.

Video Build Overview

The whole playlist - individual videos below for specifcs

Version Notes

Version Notes

X Gantry End v0.2 - Slightly increased M3 clearance hole sizes and thickness around idlers. Not compatible with X Gantry Bearing Clamp v0.01.

X Gantry Bearing Clamp v0.2 - Split into two parts. Improved clearance to enclosure walls. Easier to print. Print in orientation provided. 4 required.

Marlin Firmware v0.2 - Added feature to use second extruder output on RAMPS as second Z motor and fixed some bugs.

X Gantry End - LM8LUU_0.2 - improved version of the LM8UU X gantry end. only minor changes. backwards compatible. New Bearing clamps needed.

X Gantry Bearing Clamp - LM8LUU_0.2 - Required for X Gantry End - LM8LUU_0.2. Lower profile two part bearing clamp for each end of the X Gantry.

Gantry Head LM8LUU Bearing Holder_0.2 - Bearing clamps for the X axis gantry that use LM8lUU instead of IGUS bearings. Use one LM8LUU and one LM8UU

Unofficial Mods and Remixes

Mods

Here are some of the mods for STEVE that you might want to try if you think the standard design is not quite right for you. I have not tested them personally so if you need assistance, speak to the mod/remix designer.

E3D V6 Bowden Mount

If you want to use an e3d v6 bowden setup with STEVE, this mod will allow you to attach directly to the stepper motor mount with additional support for a bed sensor and part cooling fan.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2333612

XY Joiner for 10mm Gantry rods and IGUS RJZM bushes

If you want to upgrade the X axis gantry to 10mm rods, leaving the Y axis with 8mm then this is what you need to do it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2363021

X and Y Modified Endstop

If you don't like the standard positioning of the STEVE endstops, why not try this mod that allows the Y end stop to be mounted directly to the frame, and the X endstop to be mounted on the X gantry itself.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2378271

A-senco SSR-500 case

If you opt for a slightly different model of SSR then you might find this mod helpful as the original one might be just a little too tight.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2378306

12 mm Z Axis Shaft with LM12LUU

I have made a 12mm Z axis option, everything else about it is the same, just the larger diameter. Print the equivalent parts with '12mm' in the name. There are two modified files for this.

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Im completely new to these custom printers. I've printed parts for the Hypercube evo, which I'm sure you're familiar with. Using the 3030 extrusions. I'm wondering if your parts could work on 3030 vs the 2020. I'm not good at modding/ designing my own parts. Would it be overly hard to change to 3030's?
I liked your build first but got intimidated by it rather quickly.. again probably because I'm new and still learning.. There's a lot of corexy builds out there.
Thanks,
Curtis

Congratulations, I build and use a lot prusas because is simpler, but now I see your beautiful and clean design, I will start now print it! I have a lot 2020 profile and smooth rods! Great work, thanks for sharing

Glad you like it :)

I Must say I highly appreciate the Step files It has allowed me to modify the pieces for a little extra height as well as work for my 400x400x400 corexy I am building So far I have the XY axis done and moving just gotta figure out my X axis Thanks for the great set of parts :)

Sounds cool, are you going to upload your design? I'd love to see what you've managed to do with it, i'm sure others would find it useful too.

Once I get it all up and running and work out any possible stability issues I might just

Can't wait :)

Damn, that is the most beautiful gantry I've ever seen.

Haha, thanks :)

Beautifully designed! Thought you might like to know that I'm using your XY gantry for my sand plotter table. I'm using bronze bushings in printed LM8LUU adapters - they work great! Other than that, I'm using all the stock pieces for the XY. The only piece I modified was the extruder mount, to hold the magnets. Thanks so much for sharing your design.

That pretty cool, glad it was helpful. What is a sand plotter?

It's a CNC that drags a steel ball through sand with a magnet to create designs in the sand. Here's an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdseS4xLioo

Looks fancy! hope your build goes well :)

Looks very nice :)

Is it possible that you could provide files for a 12 mm version for the z-axis (clamps for the rods and bearing mounts for LM12)?

Two new files added to do this. I have not tested them i'm afraid. Let me know if they need and slight modification and i'll be happy to improve them.

Got only LM12UU instead the LUU for know, but they fit right in :) Thank you :)

Good to know they fit :)

Jul 27, 2017 - Modified Jul 27, 2017

I ran into something i didn't thought about before:

I don't know how, but the z-nut-mounts are now 4-5 mm too small :( The printed size is the same as the size shown in Simplify3D, so it is not a bad print. Maybe because of the 4 mm more for the LM12UU? I only noticed it because of a strong bending of the 8 mm leadscrew. Would you be so kind and add a bigger z-nut-mount by adding 4 mm between the hole for the leadscrew and the other screws?

So the Z nut is 4mm too close to the 2020 or 4mm too far away?

Too close, thats why i need additional 4 mm. And "stretching" by upscaling 4 mm in s3d does of course not help ^^

Jul 29, 2017 - Modified Jul 29, 2017

I have created an 'extended' Nut mount. Its the bottom file on the Files page.

Jul 29, 2017 - Modified Jul 29, 2017

Thanks again for your support! Printed, attached, works :)

Now i can start the wiring ^^

Thanks, printing them right now and will report if they work :)

Hi, man there is no BOM list in the files... downloaded everything two times and no word or other similar file with hardware components is to be found...

Check in the description, its a google docs sheet with purchase links and everything. Apologies for the confusion.

:) Sorry... I must be blind or something...
Thank you!

No problem, enjoy your build :)

Hopefully I will my friend... someday...
Can I ask you one more question? Do you consider it would be better (for stability) to have 2 bearing on the Y axis? (I mean 2 on the same side, currently there is only one on each side of "Y"). Thanks!

Nope, not really needed I don't think. It would look more stable, but in reality i dont think it has any effect.

Hello again, one more question: I plan on using 10mm rod for Y do you think it's possible for you to modify the X gantry end for accepting 10mm Igus bearing? I have tried to modify the .stl in Tinkercad but after importing there and downloading back to computer the file has a lot of errors in it... tried to repair with netfab and makeprintable online services but no success, the stl has so many triangles that a straight line isn't straight anymore... :( For you is much simpler to modify in Solid-works only that radius... I can pay for it if you want... Can you help me please? I appreciate it!

Look at the bottom of the main page in the Mods and Remix section. I believe what you want is already there.

I have already seen that mod but it's for 10mm on X and 8mm on Y... here is the author comment on this part:
"I might have written the description a bit poorly, the X rods are 10mm, but the Y rods are 8mm."
My plan is to use 10mm on both Y and X and I have Igus bearings with external diameter of 19mm.

Jul 5, 2017 - Modified Jul 5, 2017
eugen360 - in reply to eugen360

I've also found these parts... http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2390443 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2013475 but I have no idea if it's ok for S.T.E.V.E. they are designed for Hypercube... although the concept is similar...
Maybe the belts will not be parallel with the aluminum profiles but that isn't a very big problem

Hypercube XY Joiner for 3/8" rods, and IGUS Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 (10mm version also included)
redesigned parts for Hypercube 3d printer

Ok, thank you pal!

So... I have redesigned the redesigned part for Hypercube (XY_Clamp_v1.1_AL) and this one succeed because it didn't had many curved surfaces => Thinkercad managed correctly the file!! All done folks! Now go print something!

lol, thats what i did to my sock, they don't fit well.

I'm working on printing the last of the parts and I can't find Endstop_Clamp_0.01, should I just print 1 more of the Endstop_Clamp_thin_0.0?
Also when's the next video coming out?

Yep, that must be an error on the Bill of Materials, All the end stop clamps are the same, the 'thin' version.

thanks! I got everything printed just waiting on parts from china

Maybe I am missing it, but is there a BOM for hardware? I want to make sure I order the right number of bolts and nuts. Thanks!

Yep, there is a bom in the docs. Unfortunately its in word format because you cant upload excel files. You can copy into a spreadsheet to make it easier though. working on a google docs one with links.

Hi,
I could not find the file below between the files. Can you help?Thank you.
Y Axis M3 8mm Shaft Mount_0.01

Not sure how i missed that! Thanks for letting me now. It's now uploaded.

Thank you for the file.I'm starting to do this project.
I do not have a Titan Extruder. I have a Makerbot MK8 Bowden Extruder.
Is there a drawing on the Extruder Mount plate that I can only attach to the E3D V6?

Sorry, the X gantry assembly is quite specifically designed for e3d with titan. Yo are free to adapt the files as you like but its not something i'm planning to do. Sorry.

What is the build volume for this machine?

Approx 240x240x240mm

I have a 200x200x230mm build volume with my current printer, and I'm thinking about increasing the build volume with this corexy build-out to 300x300x300mm by adding 60mm to your dimensions for the the extrusions, shafts and lead screws. I would, of course, also increase belt lengths, bed component areas, etc. Beyond that, would you advise that I should have concerns with using the same components you used with your build? I am considering an increase in stepper motor holding torque from 45 N-cm to 59 N-cm due to the increased movement.

I would recommend getting some side panels to help with rigidity. maybe printing some feet to go at the bottom of the 2020 to allow for the extra length of the 59Ncm motors. Other than that i can't see you having any major problems right now. Definitely go for steel over igus aluminium though, aluminium will certainly be too flexible at that length.

I appreciate the info. I'll let you know how it goes.

Cool, look forward to seeing it :)

Hello. Great fun build! Should your BOM indicate a quantity of 4 for the X_Gantry_End_0.2? Thanks!

Nope, two gantry ends, but 4 of the gantry end bearing clamp

Comments deleted.

I personally don't think it needs one. You just level once and leave. But you should have no trouble using fusion360 or something to design one yourself?

would it be possible to use 8mm steel and LM8UU bearings instead of the 8mm shaft IGUS Hard Anodised Aluminium and IGUS Bearing? While I can get the parts the IGUS stuff is expensive compared to readily available steel rods and LM8UU bearings!

Absolutely, you'll see that i just uploaded the latest version of the lm8uu compatible parts.

Awesome! I'm ordering parts and will post pics when I get it built

Awesome! Can't wait :)

How many mm the distance between rods in X axis ?
Does it has same distance with Hypercube by Tech2C.
Is it possible to use the X carriage of Hypercube on S.T.E.V.E

No sorry, 51.5 on Hypercube and 60mm on STEVE. If you ask nicely maybe Tech2C will make a 60mm version for you?

whats the approximate cost in parts and materials to build this printer?
what would the 3d printed parts cost at some generic online printshop?

The non printed parts comes in circa £500, no idea about the printed parts, you'll have to get a quote from 3d hubs or something.

Apr 29, 2017 - Modified Apr 29, 2017

Looks very nice! I had the same idea to place the extruder stepper between the rods. Do you have the Solidworks files for this project? I would like tu use the RJ4JP linear bearings, so need to change some things.
Greetings from Germany!

Hi, glad you like. I do have the solidworks files but I'm not going to be sharing those, sorry. I have uploaded a STEP file of the whole thing though so that should be more than sufficient if you want to modify things :)

Great, many thanks, I think, I can handle the step files.

Great looking printer! Have you published the firmware somewhere?

firmware is in the file list too. I need to upload the most recent.

Hey, did yu use 6mm wide or 10mm wide GT2 Belts?

Going to use a bltouch to

Might sound stupid but I'm building a corexy printer and was wondering if someone could make and send me the programming I could use for it I'd be willing to pay if you can email me at manningfamily03@gmail.com thanks

Hey, I love your design, but I'm in the process of building a large printer and I'm looking at the best way to mount my e3d titan with v6 extruder as well. Because of the nature of big printers, it means I will have longer prints and more filament needed, therefore I'm going to use 5kg filament spools. I saw you switched out the extruder motor to a pancake stepper, my first question is if the little pancake motor could pull the 5kg spool? And if not could I still use the bigger 1.8 stepper without problems ? Or what would be your suggestion?
Thanks

The stepper is not about pulling, its about pushing. Mounting the spool properly should result in very little resistance to rotation so the stepper will be fine. Make sure to use a guidance tube, a bit like bowden, so that the motion is not pulling the filament. just the stepper.

Any chance you would export the files with "Pack and Go" in Solidworks and upload them for people to use?

Hi, you aren't the first person to ask this. I don't want to publish the raw SW documents i'm afraid, sorry. I might publish some files as STEP though so they can be used a little more intelligently in modellers though. May I ask what you needed the original for?

I am working to create a coreXY printer using the parts from my FolgerTech 2020 Printer.

The files would help to be able to change the bearing sizes(trying to use bushing for some axis), beef up the design for the bed support to allow it to use one stepper, change the lead screw to a threaded rod(since that is what I current printer uses and I dont want to waste them), change the main carriage to hold my extruder design(can't afford a Titan yet), change the idler holders to have integrated flanges, and I am sure a few more things.

I understand if you want to keep the files I just watched your videos about the design process and could tell it was made in Solidworks and figured I would ask since it's such a solid design I wanted to utilize the work you put into the design if you were willing.

Thanks! And keep the 3d printer videos coming!

Great design.
What do I have to change to use your extruder carriage for the HyperCube 3D Printer http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1752766 with
10mm Anodised Aluminium Rod/Tubes, 10x12x20mm Bearing Bushing Copper Alloy Bearing Bushing?
Will the dual bushing holder fit in your design?

Thanks, Harry

HyperCube 3D Printer/CNC
by Tech2C

Hi ! I can't find the silicon heated bed 265x265 filafarm? Any other alternative ?? Thx

Send them a message, they'll make a custom one. Thats what I did. There is no additional charge over a listed item as they are all made on-off.

What CAD system was this designed with? Enjoyed watching your videos. Did you you talk about on using carbon fiber x rods in any of them? I seemed to have missed it.

Designed in Solidworks. Thanks.I didn't mention carbon fibre at all. Realistically its just too expensive. I could probably request free samples from IGUS but then i would just feel too guilty to continue and it might be hard for people to do the same.

The reason I ask about the CF is I've wondering if the quadcopter arms would work as a replacement. http://www.banggood.com/3K-8mm-x-10mm-x-500mm-Roll-Wrapped-Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Boom-for-Multicopter-p-1039813.html. I think Tech2k is testing these right now. I've ordered some and it will be interesting to see how consistent the diameter is.

Have you considered sharing the Solidworks models? I'm a solidworks user myself and I'd like to modify your S.T.E.V.E design for use as a pick and place machine.

I really doubt that those will work. You'll need a really high tolerance and im pretty sure they wont have that. Also i dont think CF is very easy to cut without making a mess of it. Would be cool if they do work though.

I have considered sharing the solidworks files but they are the source files and i'd rather keep them to myself. You can always import them into solidworks as STL and convert them. Then you just need to modify the ones that need to be modified to do what you want.

Mar 19, 2017 - Modified Mar 19, 2017
fastslash25 - in reply to CompRevTech

@CompRevTech @DirtyEngineer I use carbon fiber rods from banggood I bought 4 only 2 had good enough tolerances to use with some 10mm bushings I bought on amazon. I've got probably 25 hours of printing on them. They haven't shown too much wear. They do have that benefit of being SUPER light. I would recommend them.

Its probably worth me getting some just for a punt. Inspect them and see what i think, but I really cant see the generic non-linear ones being that great over time.

Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017
DirtyEngineer - in reply to CompRevTech

I understand your decision to not release Solidworks the source files. Would you consider releasing each part as a STEP (stp) file? The problem with converting an STL back is that all circles/radii/curves are turned into line segments which are a real pain to deal with. Saving as a STEP file keeps it as a dummy solid but with correct circles/radii/curves. This also enables other CAD systems to read them. Hope you consider this. Cheers.

I'll think about it. Maybe get started with the STLs and i can provide a couple of STEP files if you really need them

I'm looking into CoreXY designs for my next printer and am excited to see this. Great stuff and I'll be following, possibly building eventually to replace my modded FFCP clone.

Your design looks like it could easily be scaled - I would like to build this around a 450mm build volume. Thoughts?

you could certainly give it a go. You'll start to encounter problems with stiffness over those sort of length though.

Mar 7, 2017 - Modified Mar 7, 2017
bazuela - in reply to CompRevTech

What do you mean by stiffness? Belt issues? printed parts? personal problems!??

Sorry for not replying sooner. Haha, nothing that personal no. The 2020 extrusion and 8mm round bar just gets a little too long, deflects a little too much and results in a worse printer. More of a prediction of engineering than by experimentation.

Ahh - So more material == more problems or are you saying I should upgrade from 2020 to something larger? Also - obviously you are an engineer as the development of this printer calls from multiple disciplines of engineering; can I ask what your specialty is?

BTW I have purchased most things from your BOM and I have been printing parts for the past 4 days straight. It's not just talk I'm building this :-)

I wouldn't mind sharing my progress (photos/videos/email) with you if your interested.

Im saying the longer the are, the more it will wobble. You could increase to 3030 to reduce that but my parts are not compatible with that. Thats a sound assumption, i'm a mechanical design engineer.

Nice, by all means share what you've found.

I would like to enclose this printer eventually (which is another great part to your design). Could the added weight of the outside panels assist in the wobble/vibration of the system? In other words; instead of returning these parts and trying to scale up. If I do run into an issue might it be remedied by increasing the mass to better control vibration?

in my non-3dprinter experience when you add panels to something wobbly (in my case 2600x1350x1800mm) it will become surprisingly rigid. Even if the panels themselves are wobbly

I havn't started work on the enclosure part of the design yet, but as you say, i have designed it to be simple so i'm sure it will be. A few flat sheets with strategically placed holes and it'll be fine. The top is my only concern where the filament feeds in and cables for wires are but i'll cross that when i get to it. Should still be fairly easy. Also, yes it will help massively with rigidity. In terms of vibration its a bit more diffcult becuase if i get it wrong they'll end up like speakers and make even more sound, but with the right material and right design, it should be quiter and less wobbly.

This looks good enough to commit some time to try. I hope your active on your comments ;-)

7 minutes delay. Active enough? :p

Actively awesome!

Great job Man ! awaited for the further updates with dutewifi and more!

Glad you like it :) I just got the re-arm so i'll probably be going with that in the long term as long as it works as expected.

Plz Post the review with re-arm configuration and test run for this printer ! . Where to get the Re-arm board ? is there any available smoothieware board compatible with our STEVE design. Plz suggest !

Will post infor for re-arm when its tested for sure. You can get it from Panucatt in the USA. I dont have any other boards to test with but i'm pretty sure you could make any board work if you know how.

Man i got the rearm board can guide me to hook up to our printer am new to smoothieware that's why. by the by your steps assembly video was fantastic

Re-arm is proving to be a massive hassle right now, lots of things not working and a ticket with their support team but i am planning on making a video about it when its finally sorted. Hopefully not too long.

Just had a quick look and have to say great job. I was looking to modify Tech2c's into a larger volume(300mm cube) but you've done all the hard work.

As you have built it for 240mm cube I assume I could just add 60mm to the lengths of extrusion and the guide rods to make 300mm cube print volume?

You could just add 60mm to the lengths if you can source the parts but 2020 starts to get a little more flexible any longer than i've used so i wouldnt necessarily recommend it.

Ah yeah no worries. Thanks for the info.

Really detailed, congrats on the hard work!

Cheers. Hopefully lots of people get a decent printer out of it.

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