PrintrBot Simple X-axis GT2 Belt & Extension

by ahaer, published

PrintrBot Simple X-axis GT2 Belt & Extension by ahaer Dec 29, 2013
4 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps



Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

18058Views 3619Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


Replace the stock bed bearing support plywood with self-printed parts that allow you to print edge-to-edge on the existing bed with only $25 in additional parts. This will increase print width from 100mm to 185mm (as shown by blue tape in photo)

Optionally use with the Printrbot Simple Metal Print Bed For Build Volume Upgrade to increase print width to 275mm.



  1. 1 36" 8mm polished rod (McMaster 88625K67) - buy extras for other projects ;)
  2. 4 3mm x 12mm flat head screws (McMaster 91294A132)
  3. 1 PrintrBot GT2 Kit (belt and 2 pulleys - $20)
  4. 2 608 (skate board) bearings (McMaster 5972K222)

Option 1 - increase to 275mm print width
4a. 1 Printrbot Simple Metal Print Bed For Build Volume Upgrade ($30)

Option 2 - increase to 400mm print width
4b. 1 "Build your own bed"


  1. Working CALIBRATED printer with at least 100x100 mm build volume
  2. Calipers (i use cheapo "Neiko 01407A" from amazon)
  3. 8.0mm and 2.5mm drill
  4. Allen wrenches for 3mm socket, 3mm flat head and really small for GT2 pulley set screws
  5. Heat gun or hair dryer
  6. Hacksaw or 3.5" die-grinder with cutting wheel


NOTE - all prints were done by author using KISSlicer.

  • If you are printing on a stock simple print these parts WITHOUT SKIRT:
    1 simpleLeftEnd.stl
    1 simpleRightEnd.stl
    1 simpleRightBed.stl

  • If you are printing with a 150mm x 100mm build area print (skirt ok):
    1 leftEnd.stl
    1 rightEnd.stl
    1 rightBed.stl

  • For all printers print (skirt ok):
    1 MotorMountXGT2.stl (same as in thing 194686)
    2 BearingCap608.stl (same as in thing 194686)
    1 washers.stl
    1 rightSupport.stl
    1 leftSupport.stl

  • Clean plastic rod parts (leftEnd,RightEnd,RightBed) by running an 8mm drill into rod holes and a 2.5mm drill into all the tap holes. A small amount of material should come out but if you get a lot calibration or slicer setting aren't right

  • Take your new rod and cut in half to 2 18" pieces. I used a 3.5" die grinder with a cutting wheel, hack saw should work. After cutting sand the ends to remove any burrs. Note using 18" rods allows you to upgrade bed without making new rods. You can make rods shorter once you decide what you want

  • Test fit and adjust rod parts (leftEnd,RightEnd,RightBed) to the rods. In my case the rods didn't quite fit. So I used a heat gun to LIGHTLY warm the thin areas of the part until the rod fit - about 5 seconds on low. DO NOT heat so much that the part gets floppy. Assembles as follows: put leftEnd on the left end, slide rightBed onto the right end and slide down some then put rightEnd on right end. Once assembled remove the leftEnd while leaving other parts on the rods

  • Install both 608 bearings onto the MotorMountXGT2 using the BearingCap608 cap and a 12mm (?) cap screws.

  • Use the caliper to measure the distance between the top of the bed and the bottom of the bed bearing carrier in all four corners. Pick the shortest value then the subtract that number form the other three. The corner with the shortest value will be mounted with no washer and the value calculated above will determine the washers to use in the other corners. In my case the left and right sides were the same...

  • remove the bed, string and bed carrier and rods leaving the bearings attached to the bottom

  • remove the all right side screws, all bottom screws and screws into x motor plate on the left and top side. Remove motor screws

  • remove right side, bottom and x motor plate

  • test fit MotorMountXGT2, file/adjust as needed

  • position GT2 gear between 608 bearings then slide motor through MotorMountXGT2 into GT2. Screw motor to plate, tighten GT2 gear to shaft

  • put MotorMountXGT2 into position, reattach bottom and right side. screw everything together.

  • Cut GT2 belt in half. Feed between gear and bearing, around gear, then between other gear and bearing. Pull one end and slide into an end grabber.

  • Slide belt into other grabber as tight as possible. Thread 3mm cap screw into tap hole at end of the back rod on either left or right side. Tighten screw to add tension to belt - make sure to slide from part to stay square.

  • Position bed with wider screw/edge gap towards the back put a screw through the corner with no spacer (measured above) and screw in 1/4 of the way

  • put the other screw on the same side using the washer with the thicknes calculated for that location between the arm and the bed and screw in 1/4 of the way. Repeat for other 2 bed screws.

  • tighten all bed screws

  • Install the rightSupport and leftSupport using the screws holding the back support plate. The legs should angle forward. Note - lay the printer on the side so that the nuts don't drop out when you remove the screws.

  • In Repetitier edit printer settings -> printer shape and change X Max to 190 and Print Area Width to 190

  • In KissSlicer edit printer -> hardware and set bed size X to 185 and bed center to 95 (home position is approx 2.5mm off left edge of bed)

  • if you find that the printer stops at 100mm you will need to inform the FIRMWARE about the new limits. In the manual control tab of Repetier run "M208 x190" to increase the firmware limit. If it works run "M500" to save your new limits. You can also use Config->Firmware EEProm Configuration command to do the same thing

Try printing bigBox.stl to test the limits of your new bed using the VASE setting WITHOUT a skirt. Note - big box current goes around the back bed screws as I haven't got the flat head screws yet and I'm using cap screw which would hit the hot end

That's all...

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

Um - sorry to be sour grapes here, but - from your pictures I cannot conceive of what you're doing. Clearly this involved a lot of time and effort on your part, and toward a worthy cause, but I'm afraid the photojournalism leaves me clueless. Perhaps to someone who owns a Simple (or is otherwise well acquainted therewith) this makes some sense, but all the detail shots in the world won't likely portray the BIG PICTURE of what you're replacing with what! Sorry, as I said, but I thought you might as well know. Odds are I ain't the only one, but most would just cruise on without wasting their time telling you. ...and - in case you're wondering - no, AAMOF, I'm not spatially challenged. Quite the opposite, as bona fide testing has indicated. ...and, I've been running a Pbot I built for a couple years now - just not a Simple.

How do you build your own bed?

Anyone have a link to how to update firmware on the simple metal? I am new to 3d printing but would like to update the firmware. Thanks for your help.

Wanna try this but not sure what is needed to buy/ installing instruction is changed for the 1405 Simple.. are there any changes for this?

do you have to use flat head screws or can you use socket head ones

Ive printed all the parts and assembled them, what do i have to do to the software to extend the x axis?

To extend the travel limits you need to send the M208 set axis travel command in repetier host. Ie send "M208 x275". After you have changed the values you can save them as power on defaults using the M500 command. Its possible your firmware doesn't support the M208 command. To test if you have the coommand run M503 - show current settings. It should list the current values for M208 (ie M208 x100 y100 z100). If there is no M208 in the output you will have to upgrade your firmware. I also think there is a dialog in Repetier that lets you changes these values and save to EEProm which might be a little easier

also having a problem with simple left end wont fit on the bed ? thanks

ok played around with the positioning and worked it out thanks

Nice job btw, might have to try it

Looks like an improvement to my earlier work http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190238http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

PrintrBot Simple X-Axis Bed Ends VER 2.0 for Upgrading Print Area

will this work one the 2014 model

Please help. I can not get the left end to print on my simple.

Hi, I adjusted the simpleleftend on mine to be able to fit. X translation I changed to 0.03648758 and Y translation I changed to 1.707508 then it worked. Thanks for this ahaer, will get to work this week expanding it!!

Seems odd you need to translate about the X and Y. Rotating 10 deg about the Z axis solved the fit issue.

Without a description of the problem I can't offer much help :(
Can you print "SimpleRightBed"?

If your printing on the stock 100mm x 100mm simple bed the part "SimpleLeftEnd" is pre-rotated to fit. Other than the rotation it is exactly the same as the "LeftEnd" part.

Now that you know the width for the XL bed is 275mm, what do you think is the minimum length of smooth rod I would need for this mod? The 36" rods haven't been available on amazon for a bit and I might as well search for something more optimized for the XL bed. Thanks!

15" rods will give you a little about 1/2" of "extra" length with the PrintrBot Metal extended bed. Note that the rods are available for $5.70 from McMaster too (see instructions for part#/link). You'll pay for shipping but they have them - plus everything else PrintrBot doesn't sell...

YMMV, but be aware that the 88625K67 rod has a tolerance of plus/minus .013mm. The first one I tried must be at the high end of that range and is a tight fit with a lot of friction in the linear bearings, and popped a couple of ball bearings out and has machined grooves one the rod where there ball bearings ride. Not ideal.
My local MechE tells me that the 1265K64/1265K66/1265K67/1265K68 shaft is better for this application since its tolerance is plus 0/minus .005mm, however, it is considerably more expensive (approx 10x!).
I did follow your advice and bought extra rod, but haven't had an opportunity to test fit them yet. perhaps I got lucky and got some with a minus deviation as well. If more than 1 out of 10 works, it is still cheaper.

Just received the PrintrBot Simple Metal Bed for Build Volume Upgrade part today. Turns out it is 275mm wide not 240mm as I had guessed. I will post a picture with metal bed installed soon

Is this small enough to be printable on the printrbot?

yes, the parts SimpleLeftEnd, SimpleRightEnd and SimpleBed are versions of the parts that have been rotated to print on unaltered Simple - which is how I printed my parts