Kossel Mini Prime Line Roller Carriage

by electronhacks, published

Kossel Mini Prime Line Roller Carriage by electronhacks Dec 30, 2013
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I scaled up brandonh's carriage that was sized for the Dual 623 V roller and made it right for some M-6153 Prime-Line tub and shower rollers I got at Lowes.
This option cost me about $10.00 for the rollers and saved me some serious cash to get the machine printing.

I will warn you that these rollers have some slop in them and if you have the cash you might go with some more expensive options though my print quality is quite good so I will stick with them for a while.

Blog post covering the complete build is here: http://www.electronhacks.com/2013/12/kossel-mini-3d-printer-vertical-movement-tutorial/

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Great! Does it fit with the 15x15? Thank you!

I'm using it on 1515. I can also confirm the wheels do not fit 2020.

Hey, I'm wondering how you keep the carriage center. Does the carriage not drift to the side depending on how much you tighten the clamping arm?

Great find and price. I have Openbeam 1515 extrusion and would like to use these as an alternative to trying to print Johann's recirculating bearings. So far they have been a nightmare to print on my Metal Simple that is usually very good about size and quality.

Did you use the stock hardware(8-32 x 3/8" Phillips screws) to mount these?


I was eyeing the same shower rollers at Lowes and had some doubts. Instead I bought some plastic 608 bearings from China via AliExpress, 30 for $30.00, including shipping.

How'd that work out for ya?

Saw your youtube video with these rollers. Nice. When you say they have some slop, how much and in which direction? Anyway to reduce it?

The rollers themselves have some play in the bearing and the carriage wiggles a few millimeters around the extruded aluminum. When printing however I don't see much print quality degradation.

Okay, printed out one and tried putting it together. I found that I could keep with M3 screws if I do the following:

For each of the rollers:

  • M3 screw, 20mm length
  • M3 square nut
  • M3 locking nylon nut

Feed M3 screw through the hole, head of bolt going into the indentation.
Screw on the M3 square nut. This will provide some lift.
Slide on the nylon roller, nut side down. The nut will rest on the corners of the M3 square nut. If you just use the M3 hex nuts, it will rest lower, since the hex nut will reside within the larger hex nut of the nylon roller.
Using the M3 nylon locking nut, tighten onto the flat side of the Nylon roller.

I found this to work nicely, keeping my printer's bolts to the M3 sizing.

I found the fit of the rollers against the 1515 beam to be quite loose, even when compressed in. I filed away at the junction to get more compression(about 0.5mm of material), which resulted in a nice fit.

Very nice design, ElectronicHacks!

After seeing this, I purchased some M-6151 (3/4") rollers to put on a standard carriage from the GitHub Mini-Kossel set obtained from the Pay-It-Forward thread on the DeltaBot Google group and tried it on MakerBeam. It came up loose also. Today I bought some M-6153 (7/8") rollers. Using two M-6151 rollers on the fixed side and one M-6153 on the adjustable leg results in a nice fit with no filing needed. I'm betting this combination will work nicely on the Misumi 1515 as well.
Ray ( Watch my handle for an improved extruder for Bowden, direct and hybrid and a really fast heating hot end. )

Upon further examination I find this part to have a major flaw. You can see in the main picture that the top is not square to the vertical beam. This will cause the effector rod ball joints to not be parallel to the build surface, hence an impossible to calibrate printer. See https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/ic1IGNwNoKchttps://groups.google.com/foru... for more in depth explanation.

It's hard to tell from that slightly offset angle, but the top does appear to be perfectly parallel to the horizontal beam behind it. As long as the two-roller side is straight —meaning that the carriage is tight— the top should remain perfectly flat. The thing I would worry about, with play in the carriages, is that the effector might be loose enough to allow the Bowden tube and hotend wires to wiggle it around. I'm building a delta using these carriages, and will have to see how it performs.

Being square to the beam it is on is the important thing. Did you look at the picture I linked?

What size T-Slot are you using here? Is it the 20mm ones? Looking for a cheap/readily available alternative to adding openbeam to standard t-slots and think that your solution may be ideal for what I have planned :)