Anet A8 Steel Frame (CHAVO A8)

by Chavostyle, published

Anet A8 Steel Frame (CHAVO A8) by Chavostyle Mar 6, 2017


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There is no need to print new parts and change current settings; this frame was designed for a straight swap of all parts from the acrylic to an all steel chassis. This will give the Anet a top class rigid frame. To save materials, screws, and nuts, this new design allows the use of most of the M3 screws and new 3/16" screws. The CHAVO A8 is the ultimate Anet A8 steel frame upgrade. This frame design not only looks amazing but greatly improves the quality of your prints. This is a DXF file with the design of the CHAVO A8; the file is set up and ready to be taken to a waterjet cutting facility, a laser cutting facility, or a plasma cutting facility. This design was cut with a waterjet cutter and tested for 3 months. The rigid frame is designed to use 3/16 inch plate steel or 3/16 inch aluminum. Imperial units were used to design the frame due to the availability and cost of metal in the USA. This frame is compatible as a straight swap of all components from the acrylic Anet A8 3D printer to this new steel or aluminum design.

Please go to the following site for more information and to purchase the frame design.


View pictures and browse through upcoming content. A build log containing links to upgrades, galleries, parts, and slicer profiles coming soon.

Two upgrades that are shown on the pictures are now available for download.

Z Wobble Upgrade:

Y Tensioner Accents:

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Has anyone actually built this? How does it compare to the Tatara frame also on Thingiverse do we think?

We will try to get customer build photos for you all. We have some photos but need permission to post in our site.

Guessing the performance would be pretty similar.

No, Tatara design is much better, with XY frame that give almost perfect geometry and more interlocked elements to improve overall stiffness you can't really compare. Tarara frame is even better than prusa steel I3: I own both and i can say Tatara is a big improvement.
Furthermore the full front frame part with no hole i beleive is a nightmare to tighten the hexagon socket set screw con the carriage.
And at least but not less important, why paying for cheap design wend you have "state of art" one under creative commons licence??

That is a pretty bold statement to say one frame is better than the other. Have you tested our frame? Please provide us with your statistical data comparing our frame to another frame that proves your theory. We at ChavoStyle do not say one frame is better than the other as we like makers to have options and because we don't have a second steel frame such as the Tatara to compare it to. That being said, makers are free to choose based on their own research. We understand you like your tatara frame but please keep such comments to yourself as you do not have any data to prove your claim. Happy printing! -Team ChavoStyle

You answer is laughable, i don't need to build a frame to see if is crappy designed because i am a engineer. You answer show how little you understand about 3D printing and about mechanical design, but, really, tell me dude, you are not ashamed to publicly show you ignorance???
You even don't understand that you design is bad when some one tell you. ROFLMAO.
I was polite in previous post but now i can assert for sure you are a pitiful crook.

At ChavoStyle we are Mechanical engineers, Electrical engineers, and Architectural design graduates. The design improves the original design functionality. Please be nice in the comments section or we will flag you. This is our last reply to you as we will not care what a profile that is used as a bot to comment says.

So despite asking again and again to purchase the files, you never got back to me.

I ended up making my own set instead. Mine is similar, but not identical. Works really REALLY well though, it is way better than my old frame. Steel definitely the way to go!

Hello Fall_Apart_Dave, the frame has been available for purchase for the past 4 months. We apologize if you were unavailable to go through with the transaction. We thank you for your interest and am happy a fellow maker such as yourself has seen the difference a steel frame makes.

May 5th in the comments down there and via private message but you stopped talking to me.

It matters not! I wasn't having a go at you.

Have two steel frame printers now of different specs, the difference is huge with the frame but it does highlight other problems that you never knew were there!

How much to order this pre-cut? If someone finds a good source, perhaps we can get several sets made?

Comments deleted.

How much does it cost to actually get cut/made?

That is a really hard question to answer. It may depend whether you use a local shop or a university facility to get it cut. I could check around as every area may differ. I got mine cut for 60 USD, but I used a local university.

I'm trying to find a local place to get it done, but I'm not coming up with anything. Thanks, that's a good price point to start with..

I would like to know where does the LCD take place? Thanks

You can print a mount or set it aside. I use octoprint so there is no need for me to use an LCD as I see everything on the computer screen.

hey i payed the $10 an hour ago but when i goto download page on my acount it says shopping cart empty when do i get my files.
i dont understand why there should be a delay for a digital product or have i fallen for a scam here

Hello, I need to aprove gour purchase before you can go back and download. It will be available to you in the next few minutes. Thank you for your purchase!

ok got it now sorry to be so negative but i have been stung a few times recently

No worries, I'm glad it worked out xD

Would this fit with the Tronxy P802e?

I don't see why it would not fit as the Tronxy is a basicay an anet with a different type of board. However you will have to calibrate your homing zero coordinates.

How can I purchase it? Just to be clear, you're selling the files only, not the actual steel frame, right?

Yes, the files. On the main page, under summary there is a link to my webpage. Head over to the site for purchase and to see more pictures. More content coming soon.

Very interesting project, when will it be available to order ?

I think within a week, working on website and printable upgrades for frame. Thank you fro your patience.

very interresting project, to me it looks absolutely stunning.

i was just wondering one thing, does everything fit perfectly?

you say its just a part swap, so id just like to make sure that everything fits perfectly together with the original parts?
or do you need to order any new parts to fit it together with the original parts.

I think within a week I'll have it up on my website. Every part fit perfectly and is indeed stunning. All the original parts will fit without the need to buy anything extra. I will release photos, video and upgrade printable parts. Thank you for your patience.

That project looks awesome. I am currently looking for an alternative frame and yours looks fine. I cannot wait to see the final results...

OK what is now with the frame is the now finished or just endless test prototype
I would like to cut the cut only costs 150 € without steel.
Some release are never ending story.
Of course my respect and honor have you but plain text please either remove the project and say does not go and everything is OK again
Important is clear information since none of us likes to throw the money out of the window and be ashamed.

Is it really working? can you upload the process or at least the video to prove it? i'd love to have the design if it is working well

Will update on Sunday. Here is a small update for you. Got a RADDS board with Arduino Due in mail today. Will load Repetier tomorrow and test it out. 8 bit Ramps was limiting my .9 degree steppers to slow speeds. I should had just swapped all anet hardware to this frame just to see show that it works haha, but no... one hardware upgrade lead to another.

Ok, great... many success for you. waiting patiently for the update, hope all goes well...

Send me a message so I can purchase a copy of the plans from you. :-)


I don't have facebook. However, I am very keen to see if this project has worked out for you. I am a rather skilled metal worker and fabricator, and know how much work goes into drafts for laser cutting.

I am happy to pay you for a copy of the files, provided I can see some very detailed photographs of the current iteration you have. My plan is to actually weld, rather than screw together, much of this. I have an order for laser cutting to put in, tagging this onto the back of it would be no problem, a brushed stainless frame would look fantastic.

Please do let me know and we can "talk turkey".

So.... have you made one yet? We are keen to hear how it fits and works... i'd like to see some decent prints form it all before I purchase.


Almost done! Working on wiring at the moment xD

If link does not work, try to add yourself to the Anet Facebook group so you can join our community. Everyone is very helpful here.

Any updates my friend? Still waiting for this project using metric sizes. Regards

I hope this link works for you. If not you should join the group in facebook to see it. This is progress.It all seems to work, just taking forever to do all the custom electronics.
Group link:

Nothing to download yet?

Still waiting.... Forever. Fail maybe?

The frame is a perfect fit. My problem is upgrading other components, I added new more powerful stepper motors and had to change for a bigger power supply. My new stepper where bigger so I had to buy a new y undercarriage. If just swapping anet items to this frame you should be golden. I will have it available no later than this weekend. I'm sorry for delay. My personal upgrade is a bit of an overkill haha. Next my plan is to log upgrades and install arduino due + RADDS to get crazy fast speeds.

So the two weeks are gone, where is this fantastic steel machine, The King Tiger Anet ?
Problem to convert to metric ?

This site is a real graveyard of fantastic designs that never reach the real world :)

Thingiverse should not allow anything that is not real and working. And to ask money for it should be FORBIDDEN !

Happy to see there is a couple of people with a bit of common sense here, a minority though.

Wow. How can you be so demanding on something that someone is providing for free?

It is not for free and anyway, looks like it is a dead project as I foresaw it :-) BTW, there are here "free" similar projects but frankly what is the point of recreating a bad Prusa plastic clone in metal ? Go for better designs.

I said 3 weeks. Learn to read. Please don't comment here anymore, your comments regarding the Anet A8 are all negative. Go to the original prusa i3 forums page and comment to your hearts contempt xD

You are SELLING, therefore, I will comment and warn potential "buyers" !
I like this guy BTW:

one should do the same in the 3D printer world. Steel Anet busted :-)

What's your web address so I can get notifications when it's ready ! Thanks

Hey mate... happy to pay, how can i download/pay?

I just updated my description. In less than 3 weeks I will have a site running for download/pay but need to make sure it 100% works as a real-world application once cut before I can sell it. I hope it makes sense. Thanks for the support!

Do you plan to supply different frames that support different LCD screens for those of us who use different screens such as the LCD 2004 and LCD 12864, commonly used in RAMPS change overs? (http://tronxy.wikia.com/wiki/Switching_to_RAMPS_1.4) ?

Great question. I'm planning to 3d print a holder for my LCD. I want my LCD to either be on top of the frame or outside besides it, not directly integrated as there are many kinds of LCD screens. This way the frame is more universal. I'm upgrading to a TFT 3.2 touch display along with upgrading board to MKS gen 1.4.

Absolutely... i'd hate to think you would sell it without testing it thoroughly first :) So it's good to know you are doing just that!

Hey Chavo, I'm interested in your frame can you give me more details on acquiring one?

Please check back within 2 weeks, I will update the description. Thanks for the support.

Let me know the price my friend. I will pay for this.


Please keep checking description for updates. We are looking at 3 weeks to release. Setting up a website where you can sign up for a notification at the moment. Thanks for the support.

Thanks my friend! Do you think that is possible to "convert" the final project also to metric? I´m from Brazil and I know that could be a problem. Conversion based on inches are terrible for details :( Thanks again for this peace of art!

Once the imperial design is released I'll convert it to metric. It's not hard, 3mm seems to be a popular thickness. I would have to realign all the screw holes and fittings, then model it to make sure it works. Thanks for the support.

For sure my friend! I´m not worried about the thickness at all. But the curves and distances between holes. Did you receive the donation? Thanks again.

Design is my career field, I'll post when the metric is available. I did receive it, I very much appreciate it. Thank you again.

Hey my friend. Any updates? Thanks again!

Yes, I built the frame and got it together. I will update page this weekend with full build log.

This one was faster, a bit smarter too as he worked in metric :-)

Tatara A8 Steel Frame - Anet A8 Swap it - V1.00

They are a group of 2 people, I'm alone with consultants. I will make metric one later. And yes the parts fit like a glove, I will update full build log this weekend.

You plus consultants ? So, should be faster ! Do metric latter ? The Anet is designed IN METRIC, you decided to use your crappy inch and of course when measuring you had to round, then converting back to metric, same problem again with often funny results . We are in 2017 NOT 1917 !

WTF is your problem. Just stop, and get a real life. I'm not commenting back to you anymore. You are so negative. I'm an engineering student and designer at an architectural firm. I know what I'm doing.

Just to inform others to beware and if they really want a metallic frame better look somewhere else to avoid issues. So, I don't care who you are, I care BECAUSE YOU SELL !

And live in USA, cheaper for me to find anything in imperial vs Metric. Metric may be better, but here in the US it cost more because our unit system is stupid.

MKSA loves to drop in on any Anet A8 thing he can find.
This is so annoying...

MKSA, don't bother replying, Im just stating a fact.

If he had someone interested in aluminum parts Anet A8 please contact me I have at work available CNC cutting machine, and I think it would not be a problem, of course, it plans to use for its A8.
[email protected]

The Anet is a poor design, dirt cheap and about as good. To make it in Al or Steel will make it a bit better but will bring the cost to the level of far better machines.
Besides, you keep the same thickness and worse, the same way of assembling the parts as the acrylic plates. Have you EVER seen a machine made of steel of that unnecessary thickness and assembled like that ????
I won't even start with the weight issue. At least, it will not move much.

The connections are not exactly the same, and this is designed for metal assembly. Yes I know how to work with steel. Personally I don't plan to move it much and I am even planning on welding most joints after assembly.

BTW is it full metric ? I mean plate thickness, fasteners, etc.. What about metric dimensions converted to inch then to metric with the usual rounding errors leading to the usual mating issues and worse ? 8mm smooth rod holes that become 5/16" ( 7.94 mm), 100 mm that becomes 4" ; 101.6 mm.

So...why not suggest another printer in the A8's price range? Sure, a more expensive printer with a metal frame would probably be better, but the low price is what makes the A8 attractive to many people.

I bought a Geetech Prusa Al, which is not that much more expensive. As a rule, I stated NO ACRYLIC FRAME ! You can improve if you start with a decent frame, not a flimsy one. I made my own mod and now print any kind of filament at 120mm/s with good results.
Anyway,for me, after that, time to go an other route, the Prusa design is a dead end, it has reached its limit.

There is a price you can't go below simply because you get junk ! This way of doing is typical of today's society, people go for the cheapest regardless the fact they will have to throw it because you can't do anything worthwhile with it. Look seems also more important than performance. Not to mention the ludicrous vendor's claims.
See here all the poor attempts to improve this crap, just to reinforce the frame there are tons of braces ! Oh, the Anet is not the only one in its league, there are plenty like it. The Geetech PRO in acrylic is as bad. PRO what a joke ! And this PRO sells ! Gee !

Want cheaper than that Anet 8 ? How about a frame in cardboard ? I bet suckers will buy it !

Have you ever used a acrylic frame printer ?? I own a total of 12 printers now cheapest one being 150 pounds (the acrylic frame) to my top 4 which are my 2 prusa mk2s,zortax m300 and my ultimaker.

Now the reason I'm asking is simple I ve made no modifications to the acrylic yet it prints extremely well in fact it rivals my mk2s quality.At the end of the day if you know what your doing and building them accurately you wont have any issues

I'm the guy that did the full aluminum A8 overlay back in January:


I can see you've already designed the whole thing, so you're probably not going to change your mind, but overlaying the front parts with a single piece is more than sufficient. The rest of the parts on the A8 are fine in acrylic. After doing the overlay, I've upgraded my x-axis, replaced the linear bearings, and shimmed my smooth rods, and it's incredibly accurate.

Doing the whole thing in aluminum or steel is nice "bling", but I think the most marketable option would be to just sell a 1-piece overlay waterjet out of steel (powder-coat afterwards?) or aluminum.

I agree with you NetMagi! Nice work on your part. How much did you pay? Did you CNC it yourself? Or did you have the service performed by a contractor? I'm curious, because I was thinking along the same lines for my Anet A6.

For mine, I paper templated it from my own measurements, and then cut it on a bandsaw.

Build log here:


a steel frame? But you only will give out the file? So, how many peeps have a 50k CNC Cutting machine at home? Idk how it works in the US, but here in Switzerland you have massively higher prices for services like metal CNC cutting. I'd say 300-400$ must be paid for one frame.

I think the most peeps would just print this or let it be printed by others having such big 3D Printer. How will you manage to put a copy protection on the files? And like @MakeItRight already told, there are already frames on the internet, FOR FREE

so atm, I would just give you out a coffee for that file. Maybe... ;-)

Such design wouldn't be accepted in a Switzerland shop in order to avoid bringing shame plus all the ghosts of the Schaublin past employees would haunt it !

I think I'll take that high priced coffee price from everyone haha. Other frames out there require printing of new parts and so much work compared to a straight part swap. I don't mean to be mean, I just don't want someone that can produce it as a whole take advantage of my design and begin selling it by changing one or 2 things. I'll update desctiption log as soon as it's cut and tested. And yes, CADlock can be used to secure dwg or make it password protected and to be used for private use. I might pay the copyright filing fee to protect me from people trying to profit from this. I hope you understand my concerns. Cheers!

Nice design but actually people are doing stuff here for fun and the community not to earn a lot of money.. I think you created the frame for yourself and your Anet a8 in the first place and not to earn money right? Why not share it for free? And if you do that you can still decide to sell the finished product as a kit on eBay in case people don't want to cut the frame themselves or find a company which does this for them. I think you'd be still earning some money. And by the way there are other good options here already and a guy named @tzahov published his whole frame here for free.. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2094209 and he is still working on it to make it fit for different material thicknesses.
Maybe you rethink your approach...

Anet A8 monolith frame plus new braces and all printer parts refined
by tzahov

I was able to click the download button and get the files for free. Sure, I don't have a way to machine this, but those that are able to do not have to pay to download the files.

It looks like you went at length to copy the acrylic frame in metal. This makes little sense to me, as acrylic frame is designed to be made from acrylic or mdf/plywood. If you want to switch to metal your best bet would be to stick with extruded aluminium profiles. These easy to source, easy to cut, provide excellent rigidity and decent weight. Like http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:468612

BTW, if this is 5mm steel it will weigh a ton.

DIY all aluminum 3D Printer
by lavith

think you'll have to forget the idea of selling it taking into account the cost of your hours already used, no one will pay you over 80 hours labour. when you work out the cost of the materials and then add a mark up to that you'll have your price, if its a realistic price (compared to replacement original parts ) then people will buy it, i wouldnt have posted it here if it wasn't going to be free, i know you've expended a lot of effort and time to accomplish what you have but the site is a sharing site so people come here looking to share things not necessarily buy them. once its finished i would look more towards ebay etc.....

Sorry to disappoint, I was looking to sell the design cheap. My 30" by 30" steel plate cost me $20. So I was thinking somewhere around $20 to $30 for the frame design. This is pennies to the dollar in terms of the stability improvement. Thanks for the criticism, I might move this to another site later and just leave it posted on the group topics.

If you get 1000 people at $5 that's pretty good for a design payback. $5000/80hr. = $60/hr. I sure people would be willing to pay a low fee for this. $20 does seem a little high considering I would need to pay a shop to cut it for me plus the material cost.

After some sleep I am considering to just do it for a few bucks such as 5 to 10, I'm more glad that people are interested in the design. And will gladly improve the file for other thickness on metal in the future. This is 3/16" aluminium (Lighter) or steel plate. I know it will weigh a ton but that's the point for rigidity.

I've put this on a few groups on face book including anet official and skynet3d you should have about 20000+ inquires about this :P

Thank you for reposting. I'll be cutting the frame tonight. Cheers!

would you make the back bits square where the board sits so could attach everything mainboard raspberry pi mosfet etc?

I'm not too sure I understand; I might be able to with a better description or link to a picture. My setup uses 2 mosfet controllers, a relay switch, and a raspberry pie. I used this case that should be able to fit on this frame. He also made a mosfet case that is placed and lines up above this one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2029528

Anet A8 Electronics Case (mainboard, octopi, step-down converter, relay and fan.)

The side bits instead of angles going narrow around the top do the same from the bottom to the top"" this /| to this || ""

I see, I want to get my frame fully cut in case I have any bugs to fix then I' sure I can make a fully square one. I say within a week. Only have 2 pieces to modify.

Have you worked out the bugs, and are you going to sell these frames, at what price. I would be interested in an Aluminium version, lighter on postage. :)

are you in england?

lol I assumed as your username has chav init

Let me know I will give you a few bucks for the dwg files....