R-CNC , the new cheap printable CNC milling machine

by RoMaker Mar 7, 2017
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That looks SO COOL!

Do you have detailed plans & instructions available?

in English?

Hi joelly,
Look at the new version, the RS-CNC http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3010914 . You'll find the link to the instructions on the website, in english.

RS-CNC , the new model of R-CNC
by RoMaker

Hello, J'ai parcouru avec attention makerfr.com et j'en suis resté bouche bée! C'est un boulot aussi passionnant qu'incroyable, Bravo à toi!
Je compte me lancer sitôt mes autres gros projets terminés. Est-ce que le shield CNC est livrable en Suisse depuis le shop MakeFr, et si oui en connais-tu les frais de livraison? Encore toutes mes félicitations pour cette machine, mais également pour le soin apporté au site où tout est extrêmement bien détaillé et précis! Joël

Salut Deltabox,
Merci pour les compliments, ça fait plaisir :)
Oui je livre partout dans le monde pour 5€80.
Par contre ne te trompe pas de tuto , depuis la sortie de la RS-CNC, la R-CNC est obsolète (là t'as posté sur la page thingiverse de la R-CNC)

Can you tell what is the size of the squares on the table? There is no information.

Hi mkulas,
There is no information because it's as you want, each user have its preferences ;)

The Cnc Sheild thats listed on your site is not available. Can an alternative be used?

Hi !
CNC shield will be in stock again this week, i'm just waiting for a electronic component delivery. Romain

To all of you might having the same issue like me struggling with the LCD 12846 sreen.
My screen was black and I couldn't figure out what I've done wrong. Double checked everything and a friend helped me sending over this pic.
So I deconstructed the plugs and flipped the flat ribbon cable 180°. After this was done it worked propperly.
Realized that a lot people have the same issue. May helpfull.

Will these files fit the 4"x3/4" Box Screed Found here in the states or does it require modification? also what about the 25MM square tube? can you use 1" or will that not work either?

Hi LS10Ti !
I will release a new CNC, the RS-CNC in only one week !
This is a great update of the R-CNC and there will be a US version ;)
Can you give me the size in millimeters of the box screed that you can find in the USA please ?

19.05 x 101.6 is what it should come out to but I do not have a piece in order to take my calipers to verify that.

Ok thank you ! If you could verify with a caliper that would help me so much ! Can you find this box screed easily in the US hardware stores ?
I was in USA last month and i forgot to see that ! :(

I've not been able to find it locally, and even in the nearest bigger city. I think I might just wait for the Rs-CNC. Does it also use box Screed?

I have the popular Bosch 1617EVS router. Does anyone have an STL file for it?

Has anyone extended this CNC to add an extra foot or two in both axes and made the plunge depth a few more inches? Any problems?

Yes, take a look at remixes ;)
One example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2403858

Increased milling space for R-CNC, the printable milling machine
by ewald

I just finished my build, ill be post photos soon. Awesome work! However when I go to move the Z axis using the LCD screen, if I try to move it multiple steps, it will move the first time and then make a whining noise like it is stuck or missing steps? Did I get a bad motor, or do I need to change the step mode on the A4988? How do I even change the A4988 step mode.

Could I just use another TB6600 for the z axis?

Am i missing something? I dont see the clamps in the "things file" section

They were linked on makerfr website in parts list:

Clamps M8 for R-CNC
by RoMaker

Which drivers with the mks board are the best ones

Hi, did someone know if there are different belt quality's? I bought the belts for y and X axis from AliExpress and they are very thin and the beltblocker can't block them, they sneak out when pulling. I can print tighter beltblocker but I think a better belt would be the better solution.

RoMaker mentioned somewhere that they need to be steel reinforced (there are wire threads inside the belt)

for aluminum cutting: How does this compare to the MPCNC in terms of performance?

dear Romaker,
thanks for your nice work and for making it public.

When I was looking at the files, I could open the z-plate-dxf but not the mdf_frame... file. Any idea what the Problem might be and how to get around? I used CorrelDraw since I haven't had AutoCAD at Hand.


Hi RoMaker,

nice work! But the Parts from basestring for the 100x20 Aluminium-Parts are a big problem. These Parts don´t fit properly. Actually I print a lot of new parts. The additional 2mm must be adjusted. I think it would be good, when you give an advice in your summary.

Best regards

Hi Cunningdevil !
the 100x20 parts are not my design but a remix from other designer, see that with the autor !

I've used some sandpaper instead of printing new ones

I changed the "Y-part A" and "Y part B" to balance the 2mm. But "X-Corner A" and "X corner B" from basestring have a fault in the design. I changed the stl´s and print it new. Theoretically the bearing back and front parts must also be adjusted, because otherwise the y-belt would not run in one straight line..

Absolutely love your design and I'm really keen to start this project but I live in Australia and work in a steel/aluminium welding workshop and we can only get 100x16 or 100x25 aluminium box. Not really keen on the idea of using wood.

Hi. I'm from New Zealand and I also have issues finding finding correct aluminum parts. May be we need to sit down and redesign it for 100x25

Hello. I made R-CNC and is realy good working machine. My question is if possible add endstops and if, how conect them.

Hi Fullspeed ! Thank you for your feedback
You can connect endstops on pins X- Y- and Z- on the ramps 1.4 like a printer.

Thanks...right now i want register on your site on forum, but my french is = 0. I cant find where i register

Don't worry ! On the main forum page, click on "inscription" at the rigth top, and on the new page, at the right , you have a scrolling menu with "Langue: Français" click on the menu and choose "British English", and you will have the forum in English !
After, if you want post a new subject, make it in "international section" , you'r welcome ;) (and i'm not alone to speak a little English)

Comments deleted.

Anyone cobbled together a dust shoe i'm just about to finish my build will post it soon but want to get some dust control on it before she runs ???

Is there any reason this would not work with a plasma torch to do CNC Plasma Cutting? I'd obviously change the cutting bed to a non flammable material...

thanks for this design. Can work cnc machine like this cnc with two nema 17 with a pololu a4988 driver for one axis?

Hey folks,

I was wondering if someone could explain to me how I could attach an additional Y-Axis motor to this build, I mean in terms of wiring, I know if I simply run two motors from one driver it would lower the current on both, however, I saw the wiring diagram on the website and was wondering if I could attach an additional driver for the NEMA 23 and wire it so it runs from the same signal but is powered seperately. Any help would be really appreciated and if you could post a quick diagram or add to the existing one to explain the wiring I would be in your debt.

Hi ,
I don't understand why you want add a second Nema23 ? It's work very well like this !
If you want absolutely add a second motor, you must add a second driver wired on the same signal, but it's fully useless for this design !

I was thinking if I made the desgin a bit larger I would need an extra Nem23 for the Y-axis, and if I do add another driver, would it connect the same way as the others and I simply parallel the signal wires?

Yes, you connect the same way as the other Y motor on the driver, and simply parallel the signal wires

Ok going through and getting lists of where to order stuff

Everything on the parts list is labeled Screw for the hardware though.

Whats what in terms of screw, bolt, cap screw etc? Is everything Cap?

Pics look like the M6 stuff is cap screw, but there are smaller screws M4 M3 etc, can they be pan head?
At first I thought I needed hex bolt for the Dolly carriers but I actually think Pan heads go through the bearings, and nuts go into carrier pockets.

"At first I thought I needed hex bolt for the Dolly carriers but I actually think Pan heads go through the bearings, and nuts go into carrier pockets."
Yes you are right, all the screws can be cap !

Bonjour, Ce modèle est-il réalisable avec des nema 17?
Hi, does it work with nema17 too?

Il faut un nema 17 pour l'axe Z mais pour X et Y il faut impérativement des Nema23 pour cette taille de CNC.
Toutes les infos sont ici : https://www.makerfr.com/cnc/r-cnc/

I’m just curious if anyone has tried to scale this up? How big do you think you could go before losing rigidity?

Printing the parts as we speak. And they look amazing!. The holes, bolt pockets fit great. My biggest worry was the accuracy of the prints even though I'm confident in my printers. But printing in 4 different printers to get it done faster. Did a great job on this. Next hurdle is buying all the non printed stuff.

About printing... i did it with 0.6 nozzle and 0.4 layer height for all parts, i think that printing in this way may save you a lot of time...

thats going to be one colourful machine buddy lol

Printed the Corner Brace as a test, to check the dimensonal accuracy of my printer. They come out perfect for a 100mm x 18m rectangular tubing. just .1 bigger so should slip on easy. Problem is the parts list shows amazon box screed and they list it as 4" x 3/4" well that is bigger height and width wise for the hole in the corner brackets by .750mm and about .25mm on the width. Im not sure if the actual screeds dimensions are in metric and its undersized like the 1" 25mm square tube. but I have to hold off printing atm because my metals store is closed til next year to test fit up a piece.

I did however cross multiply calculate what % to scale up everything to make it fit though.
Z comes out to 100.7%
X Y to 101.4%

So im doing a single test print now ( plus my original I left my retract off accidentl and got bad stringing )

I think this should be the only part I need to scale the reset can remain in metric.

Btw, great project and post. I know its not the fastest router but for the price, I was looking for stuff to print and this can keep my 4 printers busy, and actually have something to build in the end.

Nice job!
Which spindle is the one on your picture? Kress?
And which CAM software would you recommend for the GCode?
GRBL as firmware?
Thanks in advance!

Hi !
everything is explained here: http://www.makerfr.com/en/cnc/r-cnc/

The instructions said tests with 700mm min. I need at least 2500 to 3000 mm/min to run wood and plastic and higher is even better.

Is this due to the arduino being a slow board?

Hi ! The R-cnc isnt limited to 700mm/min. And if you need speed, you can make the R-CNC with belt update : http://www.makerfr.com/en/maj-courroie-x/

also X Belt replaces X Side from orginal files. I just dont want to print parts that are un needed as Im starting from scratch

so what parts are not needed off the original model? obviously the 2 Parts that hold the 25mm square tube on the X axis. the X axis motor is no longer needed

Hi !
I just updated the page, with your informations at the top -> http://www.makerfr.com/en/maj-courroie-x/
Happy new year !

Thanks! Happy new year to you too. Im banging out all the parts atm minus the Rect. aluminum pieces til I can get some to test fit before I print all that stuff.

the board isnt the limiting factor as far as speed goes, the threaded rod is the part that restricts the speed of the machine, a higher pitch lead screw would make the machine faster but you would sacrifice torque and precision, the other option would be belts or some kind of direct drive but again that would cost you torque and precision, could you not speed things up by taking deeper cuts, i know it would depend on the speed and torque of your spindle but might be worth a look.

hi could you tell me what the original use of the aluminium extrusions was please, i cant seem to find any that size in the uk.

Hi !
This is a remix to fit with 100x20 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2487484
I hope that help you

CNC Mill Updated parts for 100x20mm aluminium profile

Great design, I'm printing now in petg. Has anyone in the UK attempted this and managed to source the box screed? It's obviously made by non but I can't find it available over here. I don't want to go down the timber route.

I also found 100 x 20 aluminium extrusion impossible to find in the UK so have decided to give it a shot with 18mm ply instead

Hi buddy
Just read your comment. I’m from UK, I couldn’t find 18 x 100 or 20 x 100 aluminium extrusion any where in the uk.
So I decided to redesign the parts to fit 4” x 1” (101.6mm x 25.4mm) Aluminium extrusion which is common in the uk. I just need to print & test them. After I will upload the parts on ‘thingiverse’ website for anybody to download them.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AF42CX4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i ended up ordering 6 lengths of this. i got it a 14 quid a length but i guess i drove the price up to 24 now :-(

Hi !
This is a remix to fit with 100x20 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2487484
I hope that help you

CNC Mill Updated parts for 100x20mm aluminium profile

Im just curious what the dimensions & lengths of the frame are? I cat seem to find them anywhere?

It bon 24-121 box screed 4x3/4 inch

Hi....very, very, very nice.....Good Job !!!

elle a l'air bien cool cte cnc :)

what kinda time does the printing of the parts take on a replicator 2?

Hi !
I don't know the replicator 2, but with my I3-R, it's take 130 hours.


Great design, I'd love to build one myself, but I'm in the USA and am finding the price to buy 25mm square steel tubing in the lengths necessary for the build cost prohibitive. However, 1" (25.4mm) square steel tubing is ubiquitous in the States. A while back there was some discussion of building a US/North America friendly version. Is there any update on this?

Hi !
Often the measurements of 1 inch are actually 25mm and not 25.4mm. Go to your DIY store to measure the square tubes with a caliper before buy. Maybe you'll be lucky !
(I was in America two weeks ago, I did not think to check in a DIY store ^^)

Most of the printed parts are Prusa´s

beautiful design!
Does someone here have some experience in aluminium milling with this machine besides the video in the description?

Comments deleted.

would I be able to extend the useful milling size simply by purchasing longer metal parts and a large baseplate?

Any South African makers here know where to find the 100x18 aluminium tubing locally? I have searched everywhere and can only find 65x18.

Hey man, you can check out moduasm for aluminium profiles.

Stumbled on another supplier after my previous reply, www.hulamin.co.za.
100x20 is listed as a standard profile with them. Are the 3D models available for this design? Then I can modify them to suit

I re modelled all the parts to fit 100x20

CNC Mill Updated parts for 100x20mm aluminium profile

Let me know how it goes! I've just finished assembling another printed CNC, but already looking for the next project, and I think this will be it! But finding the right parts in SA is often a pain, so would love to follow your progress.

Hi ! Yes, you have this remix available https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2487484

CNC Mill Updated parts for 100x20mm aluminium profile

You sir are a Rockstar! Much appreciated :-) Now to get all the other bits together...

Thanks bud. Tried them as well without luck. I may have to rethink my decision to build this unit and opt for a design that uses the standard T-slot or makerslide profiles :-P

What are you using for the square tubes for your axis? Aluminum or steel? From the the parts. looks like it is 1 in sq. stock?


Hi ! They are steel square tubes.

Thank you. Just confirming they are 1 in sq?

Hi, the square tube size is 25mm. One inch is 25.4mm , measure the tube before buy.

love your design, started wit my build a joes type machine, found that the Z head etc. was to heavy am using yours OK, Mate
almost done

Are there any plans of adding support for liquid cooling?

Two things.

  1. Now you can mill your own cooling block.

  2. I haven't made this yet. What do you want to cool? The motor? How do you cool a motor? Legit question, not trying to be a dick.

I imagine a tool running like this doesn't have a long lifespan. Liquid cooling seems like a good way to extend this.

Can you provide a complete part list? I can't seem to find all of them.

Hi !
All that you need is on www.makerfr.com > CNC > R-CNC > Parts list

What an unbelievable cool design i really love it!

I ordered every part today and was luckly to get up to 11% discount on most of the parts:


Thank you sooo much!

Would this work the same if instead of a router a laser diode was attached to as the make a laser engraver/cutter?

Hi, this looks like a CNC i would make! And I was looking trough a lot of them..
Could you possibly share a source 3d file of it? I would like to modify and make it using round shaft and LME ball bearings, i dont like the complication of square tubes and bearings - unless you have some valid reason not ot use round shaft and linear bearings?
Thanks in advance, if you don't want to share your files i totaly understand and respect your decision..

To round shaft and lenear bearings it was already answered below, 20 April, you will need 25-30 mm rods and according bearings

Hi RoMaker,

really appreciate your milling machine and I'm absolutely keen to build one. One question in front and please appologize if it's answered already.
You recommend to print the 65mm-broche in PLA. Does this work? I suggest the router is getting quite warm while running, doesn't it?
I never used this router before but looking forward to get the 101748 Katsu as you mentioned.
If you can share any experience on temperature with it would be fine.

The router heats up a bit, but not enough to soften the PLA. You can always print it in ABS if it reassures you, but I use my R-CNC several times a week since 4 months without any problems in PLA ;)

How important is variable speed on the router? I have this old bosch laying around with a fixed speed of 27000 rpm I'd like to use that one if it is possible

Hi ! You can add a variator ;)

I will see. printing the parts now.
Any plans on adding a dust shoe or something to collect the dust?

Not at the moment but I think about it

This or the Root 3? Anyone have Pros and Cons of both?

Nice polished design, did you ever think of or consider using Supawood (MDF) to create T slots ? By simply getting 2 strips of MDF 6mm at the bottom and 9+mm at the top then bolting them to the existing bed its quite easy to make T slots. If you countersink the bolts holding them to the bed they form disposable waste bed at the same time I am pretty darned sure you can imagine what I am trying to convey, sorry I don't have a link to something similar I can attribute to :D,

Thank you for your contribution, I do not envisage for the moment major changes ;)

This project has just been highlighted to me and look very similar in design and in name to that of Root CNC (versions known as R2 /R2.1 and the newly released R3 within our community) I do not see any references to my work I have done, either on the Root 2 Page or even the Root2.1 / 3 page? is this a mistake or an over slight? I can see you request attribution for any derived work based on your project, Please could you do the same for these two projects. Also it might be worth changing the name of your project to ensure people do not get mixed up between theses two.

Links to the relevant pages for attribution;
Root 2 (Original) = http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001437
Root 2.1 (Beta version number) Root 3 = http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1750276

Regards Pete. PS the machine does look good.

Root 2 CNC multitool router 3D printed parts
Root 3 CNC multitool router 3D printed parts

Hello, I've known your CNC thanks to people who told me that my CNC was like yours. This was after I published my CNC. Linear guides using square tubes are not new as you can see:
Should I put a link also to their work?
For the rest of the design, it's common sense, sorry if you find a resemblance, I did not inspire your work, without you this design would have been the same!
For the name "R-CNC", R is the first letter of my first name "Romain", do I change my first name too?
All my pieces have been drawn completely, nothing is the fruit of your work on my project.
Given all of these elements if I have to put links to your achievement, you have to put links to all CNCs that closely resemble your CNC, whether printed or not, that contain elements similar to your achievement. And if you ask me, I'll find you a lot.
It is a pity to lay charges based solely on the presumption, in public, without having contacted me privately before, especially for a project that brings me nothing financially.
But I'm flattered that you contact me, it means that my design is starting to be successful.
You can continue the discussion in public or in private if you want, it is you who see.
Note: I'll get you your V3 that I have not seen yet
Best regards Romain ;)

Romain, I didn’t mention anything to do with using box section for linear guilds but you are correct in stating the use of this method for linear motion is nothing new. I am not critiquing the small details of the machine but rather the overall close resemblance to your machine to the two machines call Root 2 and Root 3 that pre-date yours by 12 and 4 month respectively. We all do this to be part of the open source community of sharing idea, learning and uploading work; of which you have done to enjoy the success it has. Innovation will only occur by having new ideas which are sparked from thing we see and do (Isaac Newton said it better) but it’s nice to give credit where credit is due. This has nothing to do with finances though it seems rather too unfortunate that these three machines resemble so closely to one another (coincident or not). I can clearly tell where you stand on this matter, I will not bother perusing this matter any further but it was worth noting it in public.

Side note - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:617468 …..

Regards Pete

Case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller with SDcard access and separate button
by RickyW

Just reading through the comments and all I can say is "Wow". Pete, you really think that the R-CNC is a copy of yours? Its not even close. Yours look like tinker toys I would buy my kids while the R-CNC looks like a professionally built CNC machine. Not trying to put down the work you've done, but calling out someone who has designed what appears a completely different CNC machine is really disappointing.

I have not attempted to print either machines, but honestly, just looking at the two, I would lean towards the R-CNC.

I wish you both the best, but honestly, before calling someone out for something that is obviously not a remake, step back and think about it first. And then step back and think about it again before posting your complaint.

I totally agree with you, provided you have taken inspiration from the machine in question, which is not the case, I only got to know your machine once mine finished! I wanted to make a printable CNC gantry ... and any CNC gantry will look like your Root2CNC! To read you, you would have invented the CNC gantry ?
Have you copied these machines older than yours? Have you quoted?
I am honest and for the 3D printer I propose that is largely inspired by Prusa, I quote all the sources and links to its site and that is normal. If I had been inspired by your machines, I would have done the same, but I will say it one last time: I knew your machines once mine finished, thank you for not putting my good faith in question , I will risk vexing myself if you continue to take me for a liar.
You are right only for the LCD case because I wanted to finish after 2 months of design and I will quote the source now.
Regards Romain

I printed the MPCNC (v1 and v2) and was a bit disappointed when I saw than my squares were not square (and rounds not round).

I started to imagine a new printed CNC with a moving gantry (with a rod between right and left to keep both sides linked together), and it was looking like the RootCNC, which appears just at the same time on thingiverse. For my design, I had the idea to make some printed guide to make aluminium plates, like Romain did...
Then I started several design using other cheap linear guides (for example U-groove SG25 bearing with epoxy-glued 8mm rods on steel profiles) and discover than almost same design were already done before (search U-groove CNC on youtube).

I can easily imagine that Romain had the same reasoning than you (and me, and others), because it's almost normal than people have sometimes same ideas when it's time for that.
Moreover, I see a lot of fundamental differences between RootCNC and R-CNC (it's a long list). The common points are: box section tube (=classic design), rod between right and left (=classic when using belt), 3D printed parts (=classic now) and a name with a 'R' and 'CNC' (=not so classic ;=) ).

At the end, both of you have good ideas and we may see other printed CNCs with similar design and improvements in the future (Gigantic Bastard CNC is one example). It was exactly the same with 3d printers, which looks all very similar now (I don't even talk about aluminium profiles CNCs...).

For me, Vicious and Carlos were the real first ones to make cheap printed CNCs (MPCNC and PCB Cyclone Factory). What came next is just normal improvements.

Is it able to cut any faster???

The machine can go faster, but it is up to you to program the right speed according to the material to be cut and your end mill

How do the stepper motors reliably remain at requested XYZ positions considering material density/drag on the bit slowing it down? Do you use some form of feedback system to let stepper know where it is?

The machine does not slow down when cutting, it uses g-code as a 3D printer! It is up to you to set the right feed speed according to your material to be cut

Steel Square rail brackets are in millimeters. Yes? Will SAE steel stock fit your brackets? If no, would you be willing to make a SAE set for those of us located in the USA? GREAT machine you have designed.

Hi , thank you, I would like to make a US version but I need the exact measurements in millimeters with a caliper of the square tubes !

Sorry for getting back with you so late. US square 1 in. = 25.50 mm.

its 25.40mm actually

Absolutely. Furthermore, are the square rails exactly one inch?

Would aluminium square tubes also work for this project?
And thanks for sharing this awesome design, printing it as we speak

Hi ! You're welcome. Aluminium square tubes are not recommanded because they are less rigid than iron square tubes !

As for the repeatability, would you recommend an upgrade to steel reinforced gt2 belt. Or is the standard belt precise enough?

Hi, I use reinforced steel gt2 belt

Okay thanx, then I'll look for some steel ones.

Very nice. Definitely making. And the BEST instruction website I have ever seen.

Thank you for your post :) you can share your R-CNC pics !

Can I just make Y axis longer?
If yes, is it just longer Y-belts, 25 square tubing and 100x18 sides? Of course longer wastebord.

Yes, you can make Y longer, but isn't recommended because the longer it takes, the less rigid it will be

In mm, what the max height this can mill?

Hi, the max height you can mill is 80x550x500mm

Did anyone used this CNC with cutter and also with a laser?
do i need to change much for it, or just the mount?

Yes you can make a mount for your tools, it's easy with the six holes of the mount plate.

No I mean not the tool, but at left, right the steel which moving the carriage with the normal bearings.

Can U modify the build, to replace the 25mm Steel square tubes with smooth rod and linear bearings?

If you want make that, you should to find 25 or 30mm smooth rods and linear bearings to have the same rigidity !

Or you can use 2 12mm smooth rods over each other. Isn't it enough strong?

Go fancy with 12 mm carbon fiber ;-)

No ! it will be like noodle !

Between a hollow sqare tube and a plain steel rod, are you sure the difference will be that big in favor of the square tube?

A hollow tube will support more weight and is thronged than solid tube. The reason is you have more surface area to keep stability

Hey bin auch aus deutschland und gerade dabei die CNC zu bauen... hast du vielleicht Lust das begleitend zu machen? Finde ein paar teile nicht im Internet.

The Amazon ordered Bon 8ft Box Screed ended up being 99.7mm by 18mm on an end by my measurements. It looks as if, in this case, they are shipping a metric tool and re-labeling to the nearest quarter inch!

I'm going to call that within tolerance (given my poor calipers) and print out an corner to see if it fits. Then on to building the CNC!

Yes good news for US customers, it's the good size ! Can you give me the link please to put on the parts list ;)

As a recommendation for others in the USA you probably want 4″ by 3/4″ Aluminum Box Screed. It’s relatively inexpensive on Amazon. Although I'm not sure if there’s some retooling of the parts necessary.

Merci pour le CNC!

You are welcome !
I go to California in September, I will measure with my meter in a DIY store ^^

I've ordered the aluminum in question and will report back once I've taken a caliper to it!

Thank you !

Hey - firstly Super cool design , like what you have done ....However, would you consider making a modded bracket for the Y-Axis to incorporate a threaded rod version , as you have it for the X-axis & Z-axis , would it be much of a mission to make it for the Y too ? because then it would be perfect !

Hello !
I have not planned to put threaded rods for the Y axis because it would be necessary to add an motor and the perpendicularity between X and Y would be no longer guaranteed because the two belts are on the same axis of drive always guaranteeing a Good perpendicularity.
I did not have any problem of precision with the GT2 10mm reinforced steel belts ;)

Do you have a list with links for the things need to be bought? Hopefull with links? :D

Yes, on the tutorial you have the parts list to buy ; ) http://www.makerfr.com/en/cnc/r-cnc/liste-des-pieces-r-cnc/

Perfect. Thanks a lot.

Comments deleted.

Hallo !
I paid 350€ for everything !


Je trouve que ta CNC a de bonnes idées et des matériaux abordables comme les règles de maçon et surtout le tube carré de 25x25 en acier comme rail. Ça change des CNC à base de profilés alu pour lesquelles il faut déjà débourser une grosse sommes sans être certain du résultat. J'avoue que je cherche plutôt à faire du PCB donc je n'ai pas forcément besoin d'un tel monstre mais c'est tentant (au moins comme base de travail).

Sur le fonctionnement des rails en tube carré 25x25, je vois que les roulements sont en contact direct avec le tube (donc sans roue). Ça ne pose pas trop de problème d'adhésion sur la surface du tube ?

Avec le temps tes roulements, surtout ceux chinois, ne risquent-t-ils pas de casser ?

Quelle est la vitesse maxi que l'on peut avoir en déplacement hors usinage ?

Un autre point, tu ne spécifies pas dans la liste des matériels si la tige lisse de 688 doit être rectifiée ? je suppose que les 2 tiges diamètres 12 de l'axe Z doivent l'être à cause des roulements linéaire mais celle là comme c'est un arbre de transmission doit-il l'être ? (au passage tu n'indiques pas le diamètre, 8 mm, dans ta liste. il faut cliquer sur le lien pour le savoir).

En tout cas belle réalisation, ça donne envie ;)

Merci pour les compliments,

Oui pour faire du PCB, cette CNC est peut être un peu surdimensionnée !

Je comprends pas pourquoi tu me parles d'adhésion des roulements au tube carré ? son but est de guider, pas de tenir la route !?
Tu as la seconde partie en dessous qui met les roulements en légère pression sur leur rail, ça bouge pas !

Vu la vitesse de rotation des roulements, je pense que pas mal d'eau va couler sous les ponts avant que le premier roulement lâche, à mon avis en garage humide, la corrosion aura fait son boulot bien avant l'usure mécanique !

Pas testé la vitesse maxi de déplacement, je l'ai conçue pour l'utiliser car j'avais besoin d'un portique CNC dans mon budget, pas pour la tester et l'admirer ! C'est une fois finie que des gens ont insisté pour que je la partage. Si un jour j'ai le temps je regarderai , mais c'est un peu comme ma voiture et ma moto, je ne sais pas à combien elles montent à fond, elle font juste bien leur boulot !

Oubli rectifié, j'ai rajouté "8mm" pour la tige lisse sur la liste quincaillerie, d'ailleurs sur la partie Anglaise je l'avais mit ! c'est un boulot de taré un tuto comme ça, à chaque fois que je relis , je corrige des détails.
Je n'indique pas si ça doit être rectifié ou non car ça semble assez logique, d'ailleurs tu as trouvé les réponses tout seul ! ;)

Je posais la question des roulements car pour ce genre de guidage, je n'avais pas encore vu de roulement mis directement en contact avec le rail de guidage. Maintenant tout dépend aussi de l'usage que l'on en fait. S'il n'est pas intensif, ça ne doit pas avoir d'importance.

Pour la vitesse, c'était juste pour info, histoire de voir quelle autre utilisation on pouvait faire de ce type de guidage. Maintenant comme tu le dis, dans le cadre d'une CNC ce n'est pas le plus important.

Le système de roulements sur profilé acier est le système le plus utilisé et de très loin dans la fabrication de CNC maison pas chère, il y a vraiment une tonne de CNC fabriquée sur ce principe (google ou youtube: low cost CNC, cheap CNC, cheap linear rail, etc...). C'est pas vraiment fait pour, car les profilés n'ont pas une très grande dureté et ne sont pas rectifiés (donc ils s'usent et ne sont pas hyper précis), mais vu la rigidité de ce type de CNC et leur utilisation non intensive, c'est clairement la meilleure option vu que ça ne coûte presque rien (surtout comparé à toutes les autres solutions de guide linéaire). On peut comparer ce type de CNC aux CNC profilés alu: t'auras le même résultat et même parfois meilleure en CNC fait maison, mais tu ne payes pas la différence de qualité, tu payes surtout le temps économisé à tout construire toi même.

Donc, si t'es pressé de faire tes PCBs et que tu ne veux faire que ça, autant acheter une petite CNC chinoise toute faite et pas chère qui gravera tes PCBs sans soucis, ou alors une CNC en profilés alus la plus petite possible (la C-Beam d'openvslot marchera très bien pour du PCB), et si t'as le courage de faire du DIY, mais que tu veux quand même que ça aille vite, regarde du côté de la PCB cyclone factory qui a été développée dans ce but et qui te coûtera encore moins cher que toutes les autres solutions (et même moins cher que la R-CNC qui a pour vocation de faire plus que du PCB): https://github.com/carlosgs/Cyclone-PCB-Factory/tree/v2.3

Je préfère le DIY au tout fait chinois sinon je ne serai pas là ;)

La PCB cyclone factory est mon premier choix mais je regardai quand même s'il y avait pas d'autres choix possibles avant de me lancer. Sur cette CNC il y a quelques pièces d'entrainement (des engrenages notamment) dont je ne suis pas certain de leurs résistances dans le temps vu que je ne peux imprimer qu'en PLA faute de plateau chauffant (c'est le point faible des imprimantes Dagoma). A l'origine ces pièces étaient imprimées en ABS, ce que je ne peux pas faire pour l'instant.

En même temps, la R-CNC me plait assez bien car je bricole beaucoup et qu'elle me permettrait de faire aussi autre chose que du PCB. Reste qu'il me faudrait lui trouver une place dans mon garage déjà bien encombré. Si je pars sur cette solution, je peux très bien adapter un petit étau sur la planche martyre pour faire du PCB. C'est plus au niveau firmware où je perdrai des fonctionnalités par rapport au firmware de la PCB cyclone factory, exemple l'interpolation du Z height probing sur la totalité de la surface du PCB (il faut être plus précis sur la profondeur de fraisage que pour la découpe d'un simple médium). Il faut être aussi certain de repartir de la même origine lors du changement d'outil (notamment pour le perçage des trous). Il faut peser le pour et le contre ...

En tout cas je n'ai pas vu mieux que ces deux là pour l'instant.

Le firmware, c'est le dernier de tes soucis. La seule chose qu'apporte Marlin c'est l'écran, mais si t'as l'ordi à côté, t'installe soit grbl for ramps (cf le lien de la cyclone) ou encore estlcam firmware pour ramps. Ou alors tu prends direct une cncshield uno et c'est encore moins cher (là, plus d'écran possible).

Je regarde actuellement sur la possibilité de remplacer (au moins pour la base) les règles de maçon par du MDF 18mm à la coupe. Je préfère travailler le bois que le métal. Le problème des règles de maçons c'est que ce n'est pas normalisé et qu'en fonction de leur taille réelle, il faudrait redimensionner les pièces imprimées. Le MDF fera toujours 18mm à une marge d'erreur près et la hauteur/longueur ce n'est que de la découpe. J'ai vu que les coins intégraient déjà une marge d'erreur sur les 18mm mais pas sur les 100mm (on peut couper à 99mm au lieu de 100 donc pas grave).

De simple tasseaux bruts pourrait remplacer les cornières métalliques ce qui facilitera le vissage du plateau martyre.

On peut aussi facilement rigidifier l'ensemble avec des tasseaux à 45° au 4 coins à l'intérieur de la base si on a peur que le MDF ne soit pas assez solide.

L'assemblage de l'ensemble avec les coins imprimés pourrait se faire avec de simple vis à bois tête fraisée. Sur les coins en PLA, il faudrait décaler les trous de vissages intérieurs pour qu'ils ne soient plus au même niveau que les trous extérieurs (ici pas besoin de mettre un boulon traversant ce qui résout aussi le problème de la fixation du plateau martyre qui était gêné par les écrous de ces boulons).

Il y aura peut être quelques limitations dues à la résistance plus faible qu'avec de l'alu (bien que le point faible sera plus les parties imprimées en PLA que le MDF surtout en 18mm) mais bon je ne compte pas faire d'usinage de métaux.

Avant de me lancer, il me faut d'abord trouver de la place dans mon garage pour construire ce CNC.

Faut que t'achètes les règles de maçon chez Brico Dépôt, là t'es sûr de ne pas avoir de soucis de taille. J'ai fait le mauvais choix d'acheter chez Casto, et elles sont plus petites (et j'avais une règle Brico Dépôt dans mon garage, et là pour le coup c'est vraiment les bonnes dimensions) . J'ai donc imprimé des cales pour compléter les espaces. Donc oui tu peux aussi utiliser du mdf. Pour la partie mobile, l'alu est vraiment 50 fois plus léger que du mdf, donc bon, vu le design, t'auras pas trop le choix que d'aller acheter tes règles alus. Si tu préfères travailler le bois, franchement, ça ne manque pas vraiment les plans de CNC en mdf pour pas cher sur le net (celle-là tu la fabriques en 1 WE: http://www.instructables.com/id/Low-Budget-CNC/ mais tu vas pas trop faire de PCB avec 1mm de précision :=D ).

How hard do you think it would be to use 3/4-in Aluminum Metal Flat Bar, as is easily available in the hardware stores? Here is a link: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-8-ft-x-3-4-in-Aluminum-Metal-Flat-Bar/3058159
I could take my caliper to the store to get exact measurements. There are many dimensions available.

Hi ! Have you an other link because i have " access denied" !


This looks great, but sourcing the aluminum box screeds you used for this build is nearly impossible and crazy expensive in Canada. Even in the USA those aluminum box screeds are anywhere from double-triple the price of Brico Depot online store in France. It would have been cheaper in Canada to build it out of 2080 standard aluminum profile or even 3/4" MDF. I have seen this design before built out of MDF. As an example from a masonry supply place close to me, they need to custom order they want almost 60$+shipping CAD for a 2m segment that's only 8.7 EUR from Brico Depot.

Again this is a beautiful build, but it makes me sad to see that the materials used to build it are out of reach for most of us.

wow ! I thought that in North America there might be problems to find the right size because it is in imperial units, but I did not think it would be as expensive!
I may be living in North America in two years, if it ends, I'll make a version for North America! But it's maybe a bit longer to wait that !
If the request is great I'll do it before ;)

There's a lot of things in Canada in particular that are ridiculously expensive compared to Europe. Only recently has aluminum profile framing become somewhat available locally and it's still more expensive than in Europe or the US. Ordering the aluminum profile from China even with shipping is 60% cheaper than sourcing from a local supplier as the local suppliers charge exorbitant shipping fees to order it in. At least where I'm from metric fasteners can be ordered very cheaply. That's the appeal of the MPCNC ;) it uses materials that are very cheap here.

RoMaker, I think your design is very elegant. I can appreciate a lot of the design choices you made.

Can ask one thing of you though? Please take it easy on bad mouthing other designs. you have taken pot shots at my machine a few times in your own comment and in your machines description. I understand you have had issues with my machine but while others have had the issues as well you are in the minority. I would have loved to get you running properly but looks like you solved the problem yourself by making a new machine, win win. Most "hobby" cnc's have the very same capabilities in there cutting abilities as well as resolution.

I work very hard to make improvements, educate users, teach CAD, CAM and inspire others. A few of us have been at it for years, maybe you can appreciate some of the ground work we have laid and leave the machines out of it.

Hello Alted, I set up a MPCNC and I was very excited by this project and I thank you. Unfortunately I had too many worries with and that is why I designed mine, not to share it but for my own use. Many people solicited me to share it. I only quote the MPCN when I am asked a question of comparison, I do not see where I quote the "MPCNC" in the description. The comparison is inevitable for people because the MPCNC is the reference for printable CNCs. Without the MPCNC I would never have started in this project and I thank you again. I do not denigrate your machine, but when asked what the difference is, I have to answer.
I have a lot of respect for your work and I will edit this comment.
Best regards

I guess I will see how my build goes with it. I'm using PETG and only 100mm of Z in the hopes of eliminating some of those problems. I don't need much Z as I already have several 3d printers. Your design is a proven CNC platform framework which will obviously be capable of much higher feed-rates and more rigidity. A more north american friendly design while keeping the price low will be 1" aluminum square tubing for the rails, and for the "box" just use 3/4" painted MDF boards with 3d printed corners.

Thanks for the idea, I'll think about it, but I have a few things to do before !

Do you have source available somewhere? Doesn't have to be up to you to adjust for regional difference ;)

Wonderful design! It looks very nice and precise.
And also the webpage with instructions and part list is perfect.
Thank you for sharing!

Thank you Tommis, you'r welcome ;)

Génial !
Tu as su reprendre l'idée des premières cnc diy avec les règles de maçon (type G. Coquery) avec la conception de pièces plastiques imprimées pour son assemblage, ect... Je crois que dès que ma nouvelle prusa i3 est finie, j'en construis une. J'avais abandonné à l'époque de me faire une "Coquery".
Merci à toi.

Merci ! Tu vois je savais même pas qu'il y a eu une mode des cnc en règles de maçon !
En tout cas il me tarde de voir les premières réalisations :) Et cet après midi j'aI mangé du MDF avec des passes de 4mm de profondeur sans que ça bronche ! :D


I would love to try building one of these when I have the money to burn.

Nice machine!

Thank you Big-E ;)