I3-R , the cheap I3 MK2 Remix

by RoMaker Mar 7, 2017
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How did you screw the Arduino into the enclosure? I find it really difficult, as the holes are very near to the GPIO rails.
Maybe a version where the Arduino is "inserted" into some kind of mechanisms would be cool!

the parts os extruder body lost,

Any chance you'll share the original files to make edits? STEP or whatever you used, I need to be able to use longer rods that span past the x-right.

Thanks for this and the files , This will be my first self built 3d printer but with Salvaged parts from old printers.
Hope it was okay to change the Y-corner to hold 9mm Smooth rods

9mm Y-Rod Edition of the cheap I3 MK2 Remix

Hello, no problem, and it can work with imperial unit threaded rods for the USA ;)

Hi, this motors are to big. (48mm lenght) find a 40mm lenght ;)

is it possible to download the Frame Kit File for the CNC Mill?

It is already among the files " Frame.DXF"

I have an older single-plate Prusa that I built. I'd like to upgrade it with your design, and I just wanted to make sure the plate is still the same dimensions. (I wasn't sure it that was something that changed with the MK2.)

Hi, yes, it's the same size

Hi, I have noticed that the T8 nut holes do not have the same placement as the holes of the original Prusa i3 MK2, I wonder why. Having it as close as possible to the original one is the aim right?

Hi,The holes have the same location, but they have been revised to fit with the standard leadscrew.

May I just say that this is a really nice looking printer. I know printers don't always look the best, but it rocks in this Bright Green.

Thank you ;)

You're welcome!

Before I forget, what material should the washers be for when we build one?
Also, can all the parts be printed in PETG?

Would it be okay to print everything in PLA?

Hello ! No, the PLA will not resist the heat of the extruder !

Is the Extruder Body remixed at all to move the stepper motor to allow a larger hobbed gear than standard as I cant seem to source the smaller ones and the original stl has no way to install the larger hobbed gear?

Hello , the extruder body is designed for this size of gear: internal diameter 5mm, external diameter 9mm, gear 7,5mm.

Yes, the original Mk2 is 5mm internal and 9mm external, but the gear is 6.4mm, I can only find the 7.5mm ones for sale.
Do you not notice the filament is hard to locate into the hole after the gear?

On Toms prusa dolly build, he drilled out the stepper motor holes to move it back a bit. I was hoping you had done this slight change to make it easier for the filament to feed.

It's not so hard to put the filament, I use this since one year.

Whats the point of using threaded rods all over the y-axis? I've never really understood that.

Hi! Threaded rods are too slow to move the axis. It's ok for Z but not for X and Y who should be faster

Its cheap parts wise, its easy to rescale to different bed sizes, adds strength and rigidity, and and be easily adjusted in case of binding of the bearings..

Hello ! I don't understand what you want to know !?

Great work on this - could you provide a list of the parts you modified?

Hello, Around 250/300 €

Great project and thanks for making it available to everyone.

I remixed 4 of the files as they need more than one piece. All I did was duplicate the item enough times to allow all copies to be printed in one go rather than print the same item multiple times.

You can find them here...http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2250476

Remix of the I3-R , the cheap I3 MK2 Remix

well done! What brand is that green filament? It looks great :)

Thank you ! the color is named "Fluo green"

Hi Romaker! I really like your printer design and I have one question: can I use rambo mini instead of ramps 1.4?

Yes of course ! You can use a mini rambo, just print the electronic enclosure from Prusa designed for Mini Rambo, and modify Marlin firmware to fit with !

Thanks! Which brand can you recommend?

I buy my filament at a French seller who sell generic brand filament, it's "no name" brand but good quality/price.

i would love to buy the parts and the frame from you but i want the exact same kit you have so its the exact same fitting where can i find it, do you ship globally?

Hello , Yes I ship worldwide :)

Hi yes sorry I apologize my frame has the hole spacing for the ramps

Hi RoMaker I have another question. Is the Frame the same size and format like the original MK2? Im asking cause I was thinking about using a bigger build surface like the MK2 does it.

Yes it is the same size ; )

i have the original aluminium laser cut frame the only thing is the holes for the ramps box do not align with the frame any chance of an added revision so we could choose the frame type for the box? (im learning my softwares other wise i would try )


Hi ! the four holes for the ramps box on the frame are originals, i just delete the useless holes ! You are the first to tell me that !

Hey RoMaker,
congratulations for the great design! The printer looks perfect, almost better than the original MK2 ;)

I am really thinking about building your design. One thing that I am not sure about is the frame material. I know that Valchromat is a really hard and sturdy type of wood. But do you think this frame will we as stiff as its steal brother?

Hello, I have 3 I3 same design, and one with an aluminum frame thickness 8mm, I have exactly the same print quality with the frames in valchromat!

Thanks for the answer. I think I will give it a try and built this printer. I dont know if its you that runs the shop. But I would love to buy two Frame Kits but it says there is only one in Stock. Is it possible to provide me two frame kits?

Since the shop is selling the frame kits it would be a very nice addition if we could buy the necessary screws for the frame. Cause if I want to source the screws and nuts the minimum amount I can get is 50. So if I need two M3x30 I have 48 that I dont need.

Hi ! you are welcome !
I will update the stock, frames are available !
For the screws, this item is good : http://www.banggood.com/fr/240pcs-M3-DIN912-Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-Nut-Assorted-Kits-4-25mm-p-1074609.html?p=IE09207288024201611Q You just need add some M3x16 screws !

Another thing: I saw you are using a E3D V6 Clone with bowden coupling on top. In the assembly on your homepage you removed the bowden coupling and slided the PTFE tubing in the hotend. This way the PTFE Tubing is just sitting loosely inside the hotend. I dont really see another solution but dont you think that the PTFE Tube will slide up during retraction and maybe get caught between the drive gear and bearing?

Idea: In some similar problems on other printer I just used a standard M4 Nut and screwd it on the ptfe tubing. You could do this to prevent the PTFE Tubing sliding upwards during retraction.

Hello, it is almost a year that I first mounted with this design, I now have 3, and never PTFE has moved! It is mounted in force.

This is very cool. I'm looking to make a cheaper MK2. I've already kind of started with my MakerSelect as I've installed the MK2 extruder and converted it to RAMPS board as well. Very well done.

Thx Dirtsky ;)

Hi ! thank you !
I made the frame with my other thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2159840
But u can buy the frame kit here : http://www.makerfr.com/shop/

R-CNC , the new cheap printable CNC milling machine
by RoMaker
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