Using another design for the camera mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2023540
Mounts in a little better location (IMHO) and has an opening in the front to avoid pressing the bind button on the Furibee board. Also, if you're very handy with a soldering iron you can A: stop the swamping issue that this board has and B: Enable SBUS.
I printed the design by DavidJohnson and really like, but it had some design issues for my build. The frame is super light and this flies more like a micro quad than most Tiny Whoops as (i believe) the ducts have been removed, which improves airflow. It's a bit more of a slippery flier ... it glides a bit more than a standard whoop. It's fun!
I printed this in Taulman 910 and Taulman PCTPE (scaled on the Z axis a bit). Both work. The 910 is great ... it has survived an unbelievable number of crashes. The PCTPE is a borderline too flexible but it definitely works - it's probably impossible to break though. I used RIT dye to dye the parts.
WHY THE REMIX? The original design didn't work very well in the standard configuration where you mash the board between the camera mount and the frame. The support braces for the frame interfere with the JST headers for the motors ... and you can't really assemble it. I didn't notice this on the first frame I assembled because I had already torn the headers off .......... This design just completes the motor guard circle and re-orients the support braces for rigidity and allows the JST headers to drop right in.
Also wanted to add some motor protection (i printed them in PCTPE).
As far as printing nylon. Besides the drying issue ... printing nylon has been easier than printing PLA.
I think the frame is around 3g.
This is a hack job remix of: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808557