CR-10 Y-Axis Belt Tensioner

by donnyb99 Mar 11, 2017
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Is there a way to create one for 60x20 profiles instead of 40x20. A 60x20 would be perfekt for my jgaurora A5X...

Many thanks,

Just perfect for my Alfawise U20. Nice design !
Nothing to do with your design, but my Y axis belt is a just a little bit too short ... I will need to buy anoter one more longer (1-2 mm missing).

printed in 35% infill, with supports for the bracket part, all fit perfect by the way. Many thanks

Does not work for the CR-10. Maybe the mini but not the regular.

Seems like my belt is too short unless I'm missing something. The belt will not go back around the stepper gear once everything is assembled even with the tensioner fully extended. It's about 7MM off from going around it. The X-axis Tensioner worked great though.

Had this issue as well; the belt was too short to fit this on my regular CR-10.

It's quite possibly a design update. The description mentions the original tensioner attached via T-bolts, but on mine the tensioner is attached via screwing it into the v-rail directly.

I have exactly the same issue! I printed the y-axis tensioner and put it on (a perfect print), and I can not get the belt back on. it is too short. As you know, these belts are re-enforced and are not stretchy. What are we missing here?

Yeah I'm not sure. Maybe Creality began using slightly shorter belts at some point? Regardless I had to go back to the stock belt tensioner. It's a shame because I liked the design of this and the X-axis one works well.

I really wish I read the comments before I printed and tried to install this. Belt too short! Argh!

Well I printed this out,but found that the original belt is not long enough and sadly living in Philippines I can't obtain the M5 bolt and nut and just one more thing to mention you also need a new bolt to hold the bearing in place.

Works for the CR-10 Mini!

I want to replace the idler wheel with a 20T version. Could you tell me if i need the version with 3mm or 5mm bore?

I agree the bolt + spacers isn't quite wide enough. I tried to drill halfway through the right side of the spacer but ended up drilling all the way through which actually worked out fine since the left side holds everything in place. An upgrade to it would be a 2mm divit on the outside of the tensioner side holes, the same size or slightly bigger than the spacers.

this modification does not work on cr10s because when it is at Y300 the bearings go to hit the arm.
I had to cut the length of the arms 8mm

have you uploaded the files for that? I would like to print this for my CR-10S. thanks!

I only cut the excess ends

What part had excess exactly? I will cut them off in the design, and post the CR-10S remix for those who need it.

What part had excess exactly? I will cut them off in the design, and post the CR-10S remix for those who need it.

He's talking about the arms that slide into the extrusion. They're too long and infringe on the bed roller space when moving to Y300

This works for the Tevo Tornado Y-axis too.

not for my Tornado. Y stepper jumps and skips regardless where the tensions is at. can't find a sweet spot. Im back to using stock tensioner and my prints are not jumping and back to normal.

So much variation between machine to machine with some of these printers. My CR-10S had a bunch of stuff different than other folks. Its like they use the parts they have on hand, or source-able at the moment.

I have had that same experience. I bought my CR-10S from Gearbest and it had different hardware than others had like the brackets and screws were different. Nothing major but it worry me a bit. The printer was out of stock for a while and I bought it as soon as it became available.

Hi I downloaded this for my CR10s5 the quality is first class.
But it does not work with the CR10s5 the 10s5 has a differant setup.

Just perfect and plug and play

the "legs" are too long and there is no space to put washers to the bearings.

Hmmmm i printed a set but the slider does not fit well in the housing and my belt wonders. The rails on either side don't match and there is also a gap on either side..

Think you could make a version that would work for 2080 extrusion?

hello and thank you for the work you did.

The bracked is not solid, there are two separate object. can you fix that?

Best regards

The 4mm bolt that hold the idler on the current (8/17) CR-10s is way to big to be used with this. You will need to use a 4mm bolt that is 30mm in length for the idler.

Increasing the tension on my Y-axis virtually eliminated my Y-axis ringing.

This is true.
It was 10pm so i slid one of the white spacers over the too long screw and added a washer to the other and just used the nut. I will likely get the 4 x 30 mm bolt.

Are you not supposed to use both of the plastic spacers on the bolt going through the bearings? Seems like everyone else is, but I can't get both of them to fit.

See ac6b comment. Use a shorter 30mm bolt.

Can some one make this for the cr10-s5 ? it dont have a frame going down the middle just the belt and the a small bracket on the outer frame?

I could be wrong as I just have a CR-10, but it sounds like that bracket you are talking about is the Y tension adjustment. My printer came shipped with both a metal X and Y tensioner. Just loosen the m4s that hold the bracket and slide out (or in if too tight). Again, I could be wrong as I can't see your printer and I'm just going by my interpretation of your typing. Take care,

thanks for the design.

The picture is not showing how exactly the parts should be mounted and my technical english is not so good to understand fully your description. Google translate generates funny german here ;-)

The metal wheels are bearings. When I mounted so far the wheels into the puller with the screw and then try to tighten the M4 screw, the sides of the puller press against the bearing wheels, making them stop.

So I widend the holes in the puller to 8mm, so the white tubes can press directly onto the middle of the wheels when mounted. Now the bearings run smoothly.
Did I made something wrong (because of not understanding your description) or is this a design issue? If a design topic, I would recommed either to make the whole in the puller to size 7,5mm, then still the white tubes fit through them. Better make more space in the puller, so on the sides in between the wheels and the puller you can put a wash each.

Just did it, great, thanks ;)

I am reprinting the main body I made the error of not printing it upright the first time and got a lot of stringing on the bracket overhang. the rest came out just fine on the first run

Cool~! i dont need this now but at some point when the belt wears it will come in handy and im sure ill end up making one