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Bakufreak

Print-in-Place Folding Nintendo Switch Stand

by Bakufreak Mar 11, 2017
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Hello.

I've made it, but simply don't understand how it open and stand... don't want to broke the item... is there any video to show?
Thank you

Hello. I wanted to let you know that someone on Etsy is selling your design. They are using your pictures, not giving you attribution, and not respecting your non-commercial license. If you have a moment please scroll to the bottom of this link and report this to Etsy.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/663913764/folding-stand-for-nintendo-switch-45?ref=shop_home_active_23

Thanks for your design.
Because I found it a bit "shaky" I have designed a case for it (only Version 2.1: 136 x 60 x 5 mm)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3371880

Just have a look ;)

Case for "Print-in-Place Folding Nintendo Switch Stand"
by 2BK

Version 2.1 isn't watertight and needs a mesh repair to print properly: I suggest to fix this

Hey there, but while printing I had a look into the individual layers and found that threre is a solid chunk of one part missing causing the print to restart in midprint. Please see the attached pics. Is this intentually?

I made one of these AND a different style. I really do not like how this one (tall) sits and holds. The other version I made has nubs incorporated that help hold the switch in solidly. The other version I find that works better if you're interested: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194047

Thanks though for making this - even though I don't prefer your version it's necessary for people to try different things so it spurs further innovations and ideas! Our family calls this "failing up" since no one got anywhere doing everything perfect the first time. :)

Folding Nintendo Switch Table-Top charging stand v3
by llakie

I used a Dagoma DiscoEasy200 to print it and it was my first printing ever, so I might have messed up something with the settings, but one part was REALLY fused together when I printed V1.

Cool design but yeah, I had mine fuse on me as well. May modify it a bit to add just a hair more room.

The v2.1 model has a flaw. One of the hinges has a broken end, leading to the fusing problem people experienced. See the attached pic. Please consider fixing.

a similar observation in the version 2.1. But my case is slightly different from yours.
I found a few problems when slicing the model with simplify3D:

  1. one end of the hinge is broken
  2. part of the hinge is 'merged' with the other part of the model.
  3. the wall next to the hinge breaks, as well.

version 2 has no problem at all.
Could it be the result of the diameter of the hinge exceeds the tolerance of the slicing software? I review the model in the simplify3D, the problem part seems slightly different to

Don't bother trying to fix it. Just print this remix instead: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2438395. It prints perfectly and saves you some filament. Remember to lay it flat before printing; somehow the model is on its side by default.

Folding Nintendo Switch Stand
by ohmg

Print worked well for me, I have a usable stand. I printed V2 of the low model on an OpenBeam Kossel Pro.

One of the smaller hinges has fused. When trying to repeatedly open and close it in an attempt to loosen up the joint, one end of the rod has separated from the body. The stand is still usable though, works great.

+1 to the adding a hole in the main support for the charger cord. I'm going to cut one in myself.

The design is nice, but holy s**t the warping is real. Used Heated bed, tape and glue stick and still got some slight lifting issues at some small corners

How hot is your bed? Try something like 50C maybe?

I'm having issues with mine. I made the 2.1 small version and I can't get it to bend at all. I had the model 3D printed at my local library using the Makerbot Mini Replicator (I think that's the model of the printer). It looks like the pictures attached

I have a Monoprice Select Mini printer that has a max build size of 120x120x120mm. I was thinking of rotating this model 45 degrees so that it will fit within that space. Anyone try this? Do I need any support to prevent it from tipping over or would a good raft suffice?

There is a hole somewhere in the model. At least when I import it to simplify3d.

Edit: Specifically Folding Stand 2.1_tall the other files seem fine.

I'm printing the not tall version and i have the same issue. The hole causes that hinge to print wierd and lock up.

Rear left hinged piece? I'm seeing the same thing.

I love the stand, but when I print the stands with the Switch logo on them, there seems to be an error in the mesh causing one of the hinges to be partially fuse and for there to be a small gap in one of the arms. It's not in the original 'blank' stand, maybe you can fix this in the near future?

I put this comment in the made section but will repeat here...
I'm just starting printing and find this design very cool. The hinges came out perfect, I love clever design.
I had a couple of ideas. Mainly if there was a bump and detent at the hinges when in "flat" mode (storage) they could remain still instead of flapping around when stored.

Maybe most have too tight hinges! But since mine move so freely this idea came to mind. I also wonder if the main hing could have the same to keep it in flat mode.

Not sure I am describing this right!

The second idea was what if the hing was lowered so it could fold completely in half. That would be thicker and require a thicker other half to make it level i guess.

Again excellent design.

Quite tough to print as there's so many edges that can start to warp up as brim doesn't go to each inner corner. 7th attempt going now at 30% speed.. :D

Mine warped printing in PLA untill I turned on the heat on the bed

I'm having he same issues with the hinges not being formed correctly on the support arms. They're not connected to the frame on one side when sliced in Simplify3D see:

http://www.macfixer.co.uk/images/switch-stand.jpg

This issue isn't present in Switch_Folding_Stand_2.stl but is in both 2.1 versions?

I'm having this issue as well. I will try to print version 2 tomorrow.

Version 2.1 slices incorrectly for me and one of the holder flaps fuses in the slicer file. Using Simplify 3D.

Version 2 slices perfectly, and i'll be printing that soon.

I have just printed this, but it's printed as almost a solid block, are there instructions on how to separate it to be able to fold it?

Seriously BEST DESIGN OUT THERE! legend! thank you so much for the awesome work, stand it working and looks great! charges perfect with the Nintendo cable the the angle is so much better for table play. High Five

Printed on:
Cocoon Create Touch
Cura 18.03
PLA

No problems

Hey Bakufreak,
Thanks so much for the design, I love this stand!
Any status update on the wide version?

Could you please share your solidworks file for the foldable stand and the left/right flaps? I am an engineering student who would like to get some more practice in solidworks while doing something that would be cool to make. I will share my edited model here in the "made" section. Please get back to me with an answer to my question as soon as possible, whatever the answer may be.

I don't use Solidworks, sorry. You'll see under "Design Tools" that I use Sketchup, lol. I have no idea what I'm really doing in terms of 3D modeling or CAD, I'm literally just playing around in the simplest modeling software I know, haha. Sorry about that!

In terms of the hinges, they are really quite simple, just a rod through a cylinder. I'm sure there are other cool models on here with CAD files available that you can play around with. In fact, here's a box with what looks like fairly similar hinges: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:82620

Buckle Box, Printable In One Piece

Ok, well I have experience in Sketchup as well. Could you post those files? If it is not too much trouble that is. Thanks

I'd prefer not to. I used to have the source files on here, but took them down after some trouble with a guy selling my stand against my will.

Dear Bakufreak,

Thanks for your great design! It printed nearly perfectly on my printer (version 2.1 of the design) but one of the hinges for one of the flaps with the nib is broken in the stl file. The geometry of the rod of the hinge appears to be wrong. I looked at it in netfabb and the geometry of the rod appears to extend beyond the hinge into the bottom part of the stand, thus the geometries of the two parts overlap. When sliced with simplify 3d a gap is generated so that the rod is only connected on one end end loose on the other. All other hinges slice and print perfectly. If you have time I would be happy if you could take a look at this. But again, thanks for the great design, it works great and makes playing with the switch much more fun.

It's a bit worse than that. That entire hinge fuses when sliced with Simplify3D (lower-left hinge on model). Simplify3D tries to heal a manifold issue and fails.

Oh, shoot. I'll take a look at it at some point. I use Sketchup to design this, which means it's not done parametrically but instead by hand. Sometimes weird errors occur and I have to make kinda hacky fixes, but I thought I got everything patched up correctly - apparently not :(

I'm having the same issue- it's one of the flaps that holds the switch itself (the flaps attached to the part that has the Switch logo). I tried both ABS and PLA (twice), sliced with Simplify3D.

Now it is lifting off build plate

Seems pretty fused to me
I printed it on Lulzbot TAz 4 and cannot figure out what I should attack with exacto knife, am going to try it on another printer that maybe won't fuse it.

I have printed the 2.1 tall version twice now and the firsts few lays keep fusing together and I'm not sure how to prevent that from happening. like the design just wish i could get it to work.

I'm using Robo3D
Wood PLA
0.2mm 1st Print 0.1mm 2nd Print
15% Ratio both prints

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

Is your bed leveled properly / correct distance from bed to nozzle? Is your first layer line width higher than 100% (as in, the setting for this in your slicer)? Those are the first things I can think of in terms of the first few layers fusing, but I am no expert. I've also never tried wood filament, dunno if that behaves weirdly or something ¯\(ツ)

This design is amazing - thanks! Including the nibs to center the Switch is very clever. With version 2.1, I was finally able to use it successfully. I tried many different settings over multiple prints with the lower tolerances, and couldn't prevent the walls from fusing.

Although the 45 degree angle is great when you're standing and resting the Switch on a table top (it's much more natural), if I'm sitting and looking at the Switch more head on I prefer 60/70 degrees which also limits glare. Any chance you'd be up for reworking for different angles?

Most likely not.

I have a question: Can an XYZ DaVinci 3D Printer print this and have it work? Does anyone know? I want to print this for a friend and I don't want to let him down

Hi, thanks for this, great idea, great design!

I printed a couple of these on PLA. And I gotta say, i Love them. BUT.... the hinges of the 'flaps' are rather weak, they break pretty easy (at least on all the 3 PLA's that I've tried). I have a couple of suggestions for the next version:

  • Make it a bit wider overall to improve stability.
  • Create an indent (or two small ones on each side) on the large area that faces the bottom to allow for an insert of some kind of rubber to increase friction.
  • poke a hole right above the 3rd bottom hinge to allow for the USB cable to come from behind.
  • Make hinges stronger.

Awesome suggestions, they are going on the list of things to seriously consider for version 2.1 or 3 or whatever I'll call it. Some things to clear up though:

  • About the rubber insert things, are you thinking of, like, sticky rubber "pads" or "feet" or whatever they are called, those kinda flat sticker-like things? Or flexible 3D printed inserts? Or just a piece of damn rubber? How big/deep of an insert are we talking? Help me out here! xD
  • In terms of the hinges for the "flaps" being weak, which do you mean exactly? The two flaps at the top that support the back of the Switch, or...?

It works really well and it's really useful, thanks for sharing your work.

If you are thinking on improving it, I think you should leave a slightly bigger gap between parts, as it looks that I'm not the only one who had a problem with the main hinge snapping because the outside part of the hinge got stuck with the other part of the stand.

Agreed, I've printed over a dozen of these and have lost one to a main hinge snap and 3 to a small back support hinge break. I've been tweaking settings to mitigate, but some source tweaks would be great too.

Thanks!

I've been playing with some new even thinner hinges today (5 mm thick to 4 mm thick), with 0.4 mm tolerance instead of 0.3. They seem totally adequite. I've also been using a different PLA than I usually do, and it's clear to me now that printer settings and calibration is not the only variable in terms of how well the hinges print, but also the filament. I'm using some white PLA right now which prints way worse than the blue I was using before, so while a 0.4 hinge is very floppy with the blue, it's tighter with the white.

Alright, I'll remake the stand with 0.4 mm tolerance, as I'm also already making a slightly taller version as Goophoba requested in a comment. I'll also try to refine every X/Y dimension and make sure they're all multiples of 0.4 mm to better fit with the fact that most nozzles are 0.4 mm wide, which should hopefully decrease the amount of guesswork the slicer has to do.

Thank you very much for taking the time to improve it.

Thank you so much for taking the time to do this! :)

This for sure, first layers merge way too easily.

What filament did you use? I would like to buy some to use in this color.

Light blue PrimaPLA from 3DPrima.com. They don't sell it anymore (and the line that seems to have replaced their PrimaPLA, Prima Select, has what looks to be a very different light blue version) - so I think it may be discontinued.

HOWEVER, as far as I know PrimaPLA was actually just rebranded eSUN PLA, and light blue eSUN PLA sure does look like it's the same colour as light blue PrimaPLA.

thanks very much! how well does the color match up?

I haven't seen the eSUN irl, but what I'm saying is I think it's literally the same plastic. Look at the pictures of the PrimaPLA https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SRXLCWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?th=1 and compare to eSUN https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-filament-2-2lbs/dp/B00MVIPAC2 even the spools are identical lol

right! but how well does the color you have match up with the switch neon blue? i'll just assume its the same color as e sun

Ah, derp! It's definitely close, but a bit lighter and SLIGHTLY more green I think compared to the Joy-Con blue. Here's some comparison pics: http://imgur.com/a/nvQea I just so happened to have 3D printed Joy-Con replicas, so that's pretty handy for the comaprison, haha.

Nice! yeah its extremely close!

Just printed this on a Ditto PRO on Medium Res, dense interior and a 1mm wall... It broke when I tried to undo the hinges.

I've never heard of that particular printer before now, but the fact that it's $1900 makes me believe it should be able to print this stand just fine. Sounds like you have some calibration to do ¯\(ツ)

Is a version that keeps the switch a 1/2 in higher off the table an edit you could make? My 3.1 gen 2 c-to-c cables are just a bit too long.

Sure, I'll try to get that done within a day or two - edit: okay, probably more like 3-4, I'm changing more things about the design and will release it all in one fell swoop.

This worked perfectly!!

The only thing I would change if even possible is to make it thinner when folded (7mm). The only reason I even think that may be possible is because the designer printed this with 15% fill I believe, and I printed this with 20% and it's ROCK solid.

I'm happy you like this design, thank you! I'll try to experiment with making some thinner hinges tonight after work, if they're strong enough I'll upload a revision. ^^

Thinner and wider if possible. I printed this, and it works. although its not the sturdiest when used.

While this width is very stable for hard surfaces and certainly much better than the kickstand, it's not ideal for anything softer (mattress, couch cushion, etc.). Since the width really isn't an issue with regards to portability because it will be less wide than the Switch anyway, I would agree it could be better wider. So thinner and wider would make this the ultimate portable Switch stand, especially with so many needlessly more complicated ones out there.

Thanks for the comments guys, I'll see what I can do when I get home from work in a few hours.
Today I was also thinking about the fact that my stand is fairly tall, lowering the center of gravity would also make it more stable. I think I have a pretty elegant idea for solving that, but I'll show that off later if it works.

It's been like...an entire day! How do you expect me to live like this?!

Haha. Looking forward to seeing and testing your newest ideas.

Haha, don't worry, will have something up soonish! Tested thinner hinges yesterday, got them down from 7 mm thick to 5 mm while still feeling very strong. I also made a completely redesigned stand, which is currently printing, with a few hours to go before I can test that. http://i.imgur.com/OmTOgpG.jpg

I'll upload a thinner version of the current design (except a bit wider, and with the area around the dimple-things recessed instead of the dimples sticking out like the current version), plus the new design if it works - either tonight or tomorrow.

UPDATE: So I've got version 2 printed now, and OH BOY it's superior to version 1 in every way. I'll take some new photos and upload version 2 in a bit. The thinner update of version 1 is unfortunately not ready today - I went straight to designing version 2 as I got home, and it's now already 11pm... ^^

My issue is the clearance for hinges. can i ask, what allowance have you used for hinge clearance?

actually scratch that. After fixing my esteps and extrusion multiplier its fine

Haha, good to know you got it working! Tolerances are 0.3 mm by the way, but I guess that's irrelevant for you now. I'll make this fact more obvious in the Thing Details text.

oh man this design is the best yet. Better then the $13 nintendo licensed one. I dont know if it could get much better. super stable and I love the folding. It was like a little puzzle when I took it off the printer. I had to come over to the computer and look at pictures of it in stand mode to figure out how to set it up. Thanks for a wonderful design.

Thank you for the comment! Glad you like it.