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Radial Fan Fang

by Lion4H, published

Radial Fan Fang by Lion4H Mar 14, 2017
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Summary

Does your layer fan make a sphere of air focused on the sweet spot?
checkout the video test below (using radial fan 4020) for aerodynamic and then test yours to see if you are using all air output, or just part of it.

There is an interesting video for high speed printing test to compare four fanduct models including this one done by ruiraptor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0llj3pBltA

Source code included (blender files, .obj).

Support:

Hotends:

  • E3D
  • E3D Titan
  • Tevo Stock (chimera single nozzle)

Radial Fans:

  • 4020
  • 5015

Sensors:

  • No sensor
  • LJC18A3 (Set X: +49mm, Y: -19mm)
  • LJ12A3 (Set X: +49mm, Y: -19mm), it'll fit in LJC18A3 18mm hole, the nuts is bigger
  • BLTouch (Set X: +39mm, Y: -21mm)
  • SN04

Features:

  • Fang design, you can see whats going on while printing, you can reach and remove oozing before they ruin the print.
  • Very efficient air blow, minimal curves , no hard angles... to avoid air colliding (air current eliminating)
  • SPHERE air concentrating!!! all air blowing focused on nozzle tip, then get reflected to all directions (see the video).
  • Adjustable height, so it fit best for your own configuration.
  • Balanced air distribution, blow from 2 sides against each other, the air escape from other 2 side, no pushing from one side only, Also Radial fan gives more air at one side of it's output hole, perpendicularly plugging design will split the air current equally for each tube.
  • Compatible with E3D, Tevo Stock hotend and many others (please comment if yours fit too)
  • Support both 4020 and 5015 Radial fan models
  • LED holder, very recommended, huge lighting focus, even for dark

Help:

Which file you should print
There are two main models, Radial Fan 4020 (40 X 20 mm) and Radial Fan 5015 (50 X 15 mm).
each model has 4 versions to support all sensors.
which identified by file name as: Radial Fan Fang [Size] [Sensor].stl
Example: if you have radial fan 5015 and LJC18A3 sensor, then you should print:
Radial_Fan_Fang_5015_LJC18A3.stl

Printing Tips

  • you can add brim support if the first layer did not stick will.
  • you need to add printing support for sensors edition, select the proper support type so you don't add support inside, 40% infill is recommended, because of sensor mount.
  • if you don't have layer fan before and you couldn't print without one, you can make a quick temporary setup for your radial fan (cardboard & duck tape), to get the first print with poor quality, then install it and print a better one.

Installing

  • you should adjust the height to make the hangs tips higher than the nozzle tip by 2 to 3mm.

Adding LED light

  • buy LED strip
  • cut the first 3 led's (cut on line)
  • connect wires to hotend fan, red to red and black to black (it'll be always on)
  • stick it under hotend fan using silicon bar or super glow, on the fan duct tip, it'll be tilted to direct light to nozzle tip

Print Settings

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Doesn't Matter

Resolution:

0.2

Infill:

25%

Post-Printing

How I Designed This

How to adjust it to make your own edition

Follow this steps as shown in the animation above:

  • download and open blend file using blender (get it free from www.blender.org)
  • press 3 on num pad, to go to front view
  • right click on the fang, to select
  • press tab key, to enter edit mode
  • press z key, to show all points
  • press and hold ctrl + left mouse key, to select points
  • press z key, to go back to solid view
  • drag axis, to make the wanted adjustment
  • press tab key, to exit edit mode
  • select all parts by right click & hold shift
  • File > Export > .stl, then check "selection Only" then Export STL

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Comments deleted.

What Material ABS or PLA or other
Many thanks
Simon

any will do

HI i printed it for tevo trantula but it doent fit well i hope you can help me

it should fit, unless you are using a special x carriage which is very short and close to the x axis
otherwise please elaborate or post photo

How did you make it fit with the thermistor and heat element cables in the way?

it'll fit

I looked through all the comments but wasn't able to find anything.

Is there anyway we can get a version that is still adjustable, but can accommodate a 40mm fan for the heat sink?

To clarify:
1)40mm heatsink fan (i use 5015 w/ 18mm sensor version, but its a 30mm heatsink fan)
2) Still adjustable

Maybe even just make an adapter that people can print so you don't have to redesign the whole fang? This would leave the 30mm part adjustable, and allow for the mounting of the 40mm fan.

there is a remix out there, not updated though, I hope they update soon

building an adapter will make it a little complex, you cannot change the distance from hot end, so you have to put the adapter from your side, and put a mount to fill the 30mm space, need some work and try

I saw a remix for the 40mm with a 5015 blower, but I like the adjustable aspect of your fang. I've been suggesting a v6 setup for the Creality CR-10 that consists of this fang, and the E3D v6 mount that keeps the v6 at stock height. It works great, but a lot of people want the 40mm heat sink fan for noise reduction and better cooling

I found a 30mm to 40mm fan shroud for the v6, but the problem is your fang only mounts to a 30mm fang. So the shroud won't work.

3 days ago - Modified 3 days ago
Eganwp - in reply to ccnkbm

This is exactly what I'm looking for! A 40mm w/ 5015 adjustable fang blower for the Creality CR-10 using the E3D v6. Would LOVE it someone can design this and post it up as it'll probably be the most popular fang in months to come.

where did you plug the blower into

What kind of control board do you have? I think most of the boards have the option to use a port for a heatbed configured as a parts cooling fan in marlin.

Hey there

What is the difference between 5015 and 4020 radial fan?
(Im Aware of that they have a different size ;) )

I mean, is one better than the other?
Which one would you recommend?

Thanks for helping!

4020 is sufficient
with 5015 you can set it to 80% max, so no loud sound

so this means, I should buy a 5015 and use it with 80% max?

Why not 100%? wouldnt I get better results with 100%?

Jul 24, 2017 - Modified Jul 24, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to DonAaran

a little better, if you don't mind the loud noise

Then i'l buy the 5015 for better results!

Thanks!

Amazing I was just looking one for the 40x40x20 blower. Nice work!

Hi

Printed the LCJ 5015 model.

Great and seems to be strong ! Only one point, we are loosing about 1.5cm on X axis. The sensor could have been placed behind a horn and the horn moved on Y axis in front of the sensor.

Maybe for the next revision :-) .. And this time, I'll have this fan hang allowing me to print it better ;-)

Except that, very good design. I'm impatient to receive my radial fan to mount it.

Thanks

Thanks for your feed back

even with no fanduct at all, you still hit the board on tevo with stock sensor (SN04)
so the best way is to print box to hold your board and lcd , which also cut some height space too
try something like this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285617

or just shift the board outside a bit using this
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2076166

this issue only exists on Tevo Tarantula, other printer models do not have this issue (Tevo black widow, other companies models...)

Tevo Tarantula Control Box
Tarantula MKS Base Offset Mount
by darknz

It would be awesome if there was a tian aero version as well!

I am using the bltouch version. I found I need to move the bltouch down more by using washers because it just barely hits the plate before the nozzle does. Is there a better way around this? If I didnt add the washers, the bltouch never triggers and I get a nozzle crash.

how many mm you think it'll be enough ? 3mm?

Jul 9, 2017 - Modified Jul 9, 2017
thomaswu1984 - in reply to Lion4H

Exactly 2mm. About 1 hexnut

Jul 9, 2017 - Modified Jul 9, 2017
thomaswu1984 - in reply to thomaswu1984

I am actually use 1 hex nut , but if it can be lowered 2mm, itd be perfect.

I re read the details, how is height adjustable for bl touch? for the sn-04 i can see how it is.

it is not adjustable for sensor, it is to match nozzle tip

Yea. it just would be nice to have some extra mm for safety. If the bed was tilted, the nozzle will crash before the bltouch can trigger.

already updated, lowered the bltouch 3mm down

Hello, I have the standard hot end, SN04 sensor. What are the X & Y offsets?

still no love for SN04 offsets?

Jul 3, 2017 - Modified Jul 14, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to rkees

I really hope someone can feedback this info, it'll help so many people,
please share when you reach the correct info

hi lion. i printed the fan duct but i discover that i can not install it on my hot end. in fact i have the first version of x carriage where all holes are farer from the edge of the acrylic.
do you have and adapter or spacer?

adapter will not fix this as hotend is very close to X axis,
you can print another x carriage which may include additional features (belt tightening adjustment, cables path... etc)

I have one more question which file should i print for my tevo tarantula with the hot end that came with the printer ? SN04, Lic18a3, or BLTouch

Those are the name of sensors, if you don't have any, then print the one without them

Do you use the 15 mm × 50 mm fan or a different size? Need to know so i dont order the wrong one.

Radial fan 5015 = 50 X 15 mm
Radial fan 4020 = 40 X 20 mm
both supported

Which one would you recommend?

Thank you so much

Comments deleted.

Can you please clarify one thing for me? Is your design meant to blow air on the nozzle to make it goes at 90* angle right in the print area? Or i should modify it to just hit the print area, not nozzle? Because right now, fangs are directed at nozzle, and nozzle temperature is much below than temperature of heating block, so printing some plastics with turned on fan is quite a problem =\

it don't blow horizontally, it blow like an angle to the bottom because air keep some down flow momentum
you should also tighten the nozzle all the way up before you tighten the heat break from other side (throat)
I'm using it for a long time now, all is fine for me
the air should hit nozzle tip, not the bed, we need to cool the melted plastic only
this is getting repeated to much :) I'm thinking of adding 5mm height adjustment space

Thanks for the answer, now i got it! One final adjustment.

that would be really great. i have designed a 30mm fan holder for the e3d v6. it greatly reduces clogs in pla and gives you better retract performance (because of minimal heat creep - it cools lower compared to the regular e3d v6 cooler). but unfortunately the sideffect is that now i cannot use this great cooler, as the "fangs" are now ~6-7mm too low (~4mm below the nozzle, and i had optimal performance when they were ~3mm above).

so, i'd like to add my vote (+1) for an adjustable version :)

Jun 25, 2017 - Modified Jun 25, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to thed0ct0r

finished it, try it now

thank you - i just printed it.
but i must not have explained clearly before - that modification is exactly what i imagined you meant, but in the opposite direction :)
i can now make the "fangs" go even lower, but i need them to go higher (by about 5mm).
if it is at all possible for you to make the slots start higher and then longer - it would really be great and appreciated.
i'm sorry to have to ask this of you, i have experience with cad programs but can never get what i want done with blender... i really wish blender could export to a .step file or any other non-mesh format so i could edit it on my own, i hope you don't find my request imposing.

thingiverse should really allow posting images in comments - would make life so much easier. so i probably should have done this in my previous post, here is a link to an image of the new version printed and mounted on my hotend cooler.
https://imagebin.ca/v/3RDwqwkAy5AJ

Jun 25, 2017 - Modified Jun 25, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to thed0ct0r

not sure about your fan mount design, but I have to go with standards,
can't you slide or flip the fan mount ?
also I can't make it longer to avoid covering the hotend fan

i totally understand what you are saying.
i'll try to explain a little. e3d's original fan holder has a problem when printing high temp materials (nylons, polycarbonate, etc...) at high speeds (100mm/s and above). you will get heat creep, so if that material needs more retracting for a cleaner print - you will definitely end up with a clog.
here is a picture to make it more clear - https://imagebin.ca/v/3RGz8T0vSSJU
as you can see, the red line marks where the bottom part of the airflow is (approximation, and ofcourse air will move like a cone - but this is just to illustrate). the space between that line and the heatblock itself ( + exposed nozzle) gets very little to no cooling.
you can fix that by lowering the cooler on the hotend, but then it doesn't hold so well (and also you will have a problem with the radial fang) or you could use the holder i am working on - it sits a little below where the e3d one sits (~3-4mm instead of 5-6mm if you use the original) and it also has the wind tunnel pointing at a more slanted angle (~15 degrees) towards the bottom - which is the part you want to cool anyways (it does not help to cool the top of the heatsink).

my fan holder also provides some screw points for accessories like z probes and holders for cable ties etc - but that is besides the point.

i really hope you'd be willing to consider making an adjustment for these types of cases.

I'll definitely keep that in mind, and I agree with you that E3D fan mount can be improved.
I'm interesting in your design if you have a working prototype or photo.
however, it is tricky to print hotend fan mount designed for high temperature with normal material
it need to be ABS or something can stand the heat, otherwise it'll get very loose over time.

sorry for the late response - i had to take a few short notice business trips.

actually in the picture i posted earlier of the mounted fang being too low (for my fan holder) you can see one of the beta versions.
here is (hopefully) a better picture of it https://imagebin.ca/v/3SmslhP0nCtG
it was very hard to focus the phone camera on it but i have marked what you can see is the fan outlet which is below the lowest fin of the v6 heatsink. it is also at ~15 degree angle for better airflow on the throat (which is where most clogs from heatcreep happen).

it is not ready for production yet - as i am still improving the design, i will post it on thingiverse when it is done.
in the meanwhile, as a believer in open-source i have no problem sharing the full fusion360 files (or any other format that's exportable from fusion360), if you're interested, on github.

i understand your concern regarding heat warping, but the prototype you see in the image is printed in pla and has been printing for at least ~50-70hours, with no degradation whatsoever. i actually don't think it would be a problem since there is a constant airflow.
but, i will probably be printing the final design in petg to give it a little extra heat resistance. i do plan on mounting a thermistor on it to see what kind of temperatures it has to deal with, and maybe change the design based on the results.

i have had to resort to using one of the inferior layer coolers for my testing, because i cannot mount the fang currently, so if there is any chance you'd be willing to make it adjustable for higher sitting i would really love to go back to using the fang. i have tested many layer coolers, and none have given me the results i get with your design.

Jul 10, 2017 - Modified Jul 10, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to thed0ct0r

Good work, it looks powerful with the screw strap, much more better than the original one

I see the issue here,
you kinda flipped the original fan mount upside down, so the extra 7mm goes under the heat sink, which lead to your issue with this fanduct
also you have an issue to address, you exposed the hotend fan to the heater directly, you should block the gap below the heat sink

I recommend you to flip it back, and put air guidance instead,
2 or 3 blades tilted down, between the hotend and it's fan (inside the hotend fan mount)
so the air hit the bottom more than the top, that way your design keep the standards, all add-ons/upgrades will fit normally

thanks, i have done more than a few air flow simulations and prototypes. this is not the final version - but the air flow is already very well manipulated for much improved results, especially when printing filaments that require more than 230C.

i understand it may seem this way, but it is not just flipped upside down - if that was the case, it would indeed protrude ~5-7mm, and it only protrudes ~3mm (as can be seen in this picture https://imagebin.ca/v/3SvYjdmGuDye - the ruler is held straight and flush but it was hard to get a good angle as i only have 2 hands :) ). it is a very minimal (and in my opinion very acceptable) change from the original in terms of placement - but i did have to lower it, because the 30mm fan only pushes a small amount of cfm at a relatively low pressure. in that case changing the airflow direction ~15 degrees over such a small distance is not effective (in my simulations and testing, perhaps there is a better way that those i thought of, i do not claim to know or think of everything - but i did do a lot of testing, simulation and research). therefor a compromise of just under 3mm was made. there is an internal geometry to the heatsink holder as well that helps with directing the airflow better.
i hope that explains it a bit better, and that again - you might reconsider?

i'm not 100% sure i understood your suggestion - but if you are suggesting just having straight fins at a downwards angle, it is a design that i have tried, and as i mentioned above - there is only a trickle of air flow at the throat and bottom of heatsink, whereas you actually want the bulk of the airflow. it actually causes more turbulences than actually effecting airflow direction (using a 30-50mm blower here could make it work, but that's not an option for me).
but, perhaps i misunderstood you and you meant something else? (apologies if i did) if so - perhaps you could make a quick drawing so i understand better?

https://imagebin.ca/v/3TMJAincGdyi

adding tilted "blades" give more air to bottom, keeping same standards and size

yes, exactly - it's what i already have in the design (as i mentioned before), but if you look in your picture - you can see the problem, the heatsink fins then change the air flow angle back to horizontal. as they are the only air path (they are effectively a wind tunnel/corridor) so you have to have an opening just below them that lets the air travel in the direction of the throat - which was my solution.
not sure if i'm managing to explain this correctly - would it help if i marked it on your photo?

is there no way you would consider just making the slots a few mm longer? or do you know of a way to export a blender mesh to a solid object?

I know heatsink fins are horizontal, but in the photo I post, the lower part gets double the amount of air than the upper part,
it is double the current, so it should cool faster than the upper part.
I don't think you should make more than that unless the printer is located in hot environment

I keep consider everything, i add any suggestion when the positives are more than the negatives
right now, most (if not all) people are using the standard hotend fan mount,
if I gonna add extra 5 mm below, then I should extand the hotend fan hole to below too, that leads to block the view area for nozzle, which is a big advantage of this design, and only very few people can have benefit from it, so it is on hold for now, I might extended it 1 extra mm though.
as for exporting from blender to another format, install blender (84mb , free) and select the format you want to export to, there are about 6 format to choose from, and you can pick the exact part you like (sensor, fan size)

i hope the markings i added on your picture will help me clarify my explanation. this medium of messages makes it much harder to explain than a chat or conversation :)
https://imagebin.ca/v/3Tm4cWuXBqS8

so, yes - the bottom will receive more air, (though for those angles there will be some backpressure due to turbulences) - but it's not my intention. the main problem is that most clogs occur in the area i marked in the red circle. it is where heat creep occurs and especially because this area is relatively thin and has no big surface area it needs active cooling, which is what my design does.
with the regular design - no matter the angle of the fins, as long as the fan mount is flush with the e3d v6 heatsink fins - air will be blocked at the blue line which is the bottom fin. it is one of the reasons for the design of the new titan aero.
my design takes care of that and adds a pretty good air flow to that bottom throat - and in my experiments, even printing with pla at 210C you will have better results, better retractions and a cleaner print (especially if you are using the silicone sock).
i did try to have it flush and just add a hole/tunnel in different places (like i said - i have tried many designs) aimed at the throat - but performance was very much lacking with the 30mm fan, and the difference my current design makes is well worth it imho.

i'm not sure i understood your explanation of the change 100% - perhaps i did not explain properly the modification i am asking for? again - apologies if that is the case...
https://imagebin.ca/v/3Tm9o79gUlLu
that's the change i am asking for - is it what you understood i meant? because i am not sure i understand how that will block anything - one of the things i LOVE about the fang design is the easy access to the nozzle, which i would not like to loose - but i do not think this affects it, or am i wrong?
i'm not even sure the blue part is needed because there seems to be enough "meat" on the bottom part for the extension.
i have tried to do this in blender myself - but ashamed to say i failed, i have always had problems working with meshes :(
i also could not find any way to export into any solid format, i guess blender only does meshes...

I understand what you are trying to achieve now,
but this way you'll hit the heat block with air, which will make some temperature drop
is it really that clogging for you? maybe the reason because of other things like some gap's inside?
Indeed, I don't have to lower the bottom area of the mount, but I still have to lower the screw holders, which as you can see in your photo, it'll block critical space of the hotend fan area
I'll add one mm though

Can you make it fit a dual hotend? with sn04 :)

is it possible to increase the thickness of the mount for BLTouch? The current one bends quite easily

I think you are using very light infill
increase it to 50% or more.

which one is for titan?
Thanks!

Can somebody post a pic as to how exactly your attaching the LEDs? It's hard to tell from the "above view" pics.
Thanks...

regular super glow is enough to hole it there, no weight or force on it
I glow it only on the fanduct tip, and direct it to the nozzle

But where exactly is it mounted and positioned?

Is it meant to blow on the heat-block? According to screenshots - yes, but how you deal with temperature dropdowns? For example - i'm printing at 230 degree celcium, but as soon as fan starts working temperature drops to 210 and it's not enough for filament i'm using, how do you deal with such problem?

the photos are for the initial build, but I did make them blow below later,
on the original design I didn't get that much temperature decrease
they don't blow horizontally, they make an angle to the bottom
if you have E3D you can slide the hotend fan mount down or even flip it

ok, nvm, i'll adjust fangs in blender, should read description fully, sorry.

I have a 5015 fan and i loved using this on my Tevo when i got it but i upgraded to a real E3d V6, and it doesnt work because the nozzles go down to far, I am terrible with blender but i see you have the different files, will any of them work with the e3d v6 if so which one?

The nozzles would have to be about even with the bottom of the square (or up to 2 mm lower than the square frame at the closest point to the bed

try to slide the hotend fan mount up or down
check if you install it flipped upside down

tried both ways still down below the nozzle unless i really really loosen the nozzle up which wont work with the heating pipe

Comments deleted.

Hey, how is the 4020 compared to the 5015? I have the 5015 ATM and considering replacing it with the 4020.

you don't have to
just limit max speed to 80% and it'll better than 4020 with 100% and loud

Hi! I just recieved my tarantula 3d printer, and I ordered the auto leveling sensor, if I have a 4020 fan, which model should I print?

print a model with 4020 in it's name, also the name of your sensor

Hi, nice fanduct. I tried to print it and is already using it. very efficient. many thanks. man!

Really good fanduct!! Thank you

The sn04 version with the extension on the right bumps into the board and I haven't mounted the sensor itself yet so it would have quite a big X axis loss because of that. Any way it can be fixed/moved somewhere else? It's unusable right now.
Thanks ahead!

unless you remove the board, this is the only way to get your full bed space
even without fanduct at all, you still lose some x space because of it

Without the fan fang with the sensor month I have the entire X all the way even with the fan fang without the senaor

you may have another printer model
however, It is not possible to add put sensor on the left , it'll get out of bed when you "home x"
as for front, it will block the vision for the nozzle, and get on the air input in front of hotend fan
and will looks a bit ugly for ever :D
if you ok with that, you might simply move the mount to front in blender and make your own mix
I added some tutorial on how to do basics
removing the board is still a valid option

Any chance we can get versions for the sensor mounts on the left side of the fang? Options would be nice. I'm using the current version of the inductive sensor fang right now (right side) and I have to lose a bit of my X travel due to it bumping up against my motherboard

you can't put it on the left, it'll go out of bed when you "home x"
it is recommended to remove the board to get all of your bed X size,
even without sensor , you still lose some bed area (1 to 2 cm)
you can print a case for it to combine it with other parts and lose the missy wires view

May 21, 2017 - Modified May 21, 2017
reisher - in reply to Jo0

Same problem here. But wouldn't it be the same on the left?
Probably should have been on the front

May 19, 2017 - Modified May 19, 2017

It's a wonderful design and provides great amount of air on nozzle, however this greatness makes model useless beause it blows so much air to nozzle which leads to fast tempreture drop and causes temperature runaway. Any ideas how to fix it ?

you can always limit the max air blowing to 80% and it is recommended to avoid noise too
check if the air hit the heat block, it should not,
on E3D you can slide the hotend fan mount up or down,
check that you installed the nozzle all the way up before you install the heat break (throat)

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017

Can we have the fan fang and the automatic platform.
Sorry for the bad english (I'm french).

what you mean by automatic platform?

Does it need to be printed with supports?

In which orientation should i print this? I have really no idea how to start printing this...

as is, just slice and print, if you print sensor edition, then add support before slicing

Good day! You could make a version for Volcano sensor BlTouch? I have not yet mastered the modeling, but would love your blowout.

this is the easiest modification, you really should be able to do it by following the animation,
just select which fan edition you have, and hit the buttons in the instructions in the same order :)

hello could you move the bltouch holder to the front? yes i will make it bad for looks. but it save space when testing the bed.
i try edit it by myself but without success. lack knowledge

you should set X in firmware to get best result

yes i have set it x to 37 after nozzle. but if i got big part to print. something not right in the left side. cause tarantula make it x0 to the left of the bed. and might be it is cause my bed really not consistent also. it is ok i will try to learn it thx for replying

yes, it looks like you set the wrong X
you need to set the one related to prob for auto level, that one is used before the print, not while printing

no, i set it right in the configuration.h.

it is because btl is set to 35mm right after the nozzle. so when nozzle is in the 0.0 position, the bed can leveling is start from 35mm until 210mm. the 10-34mm is never recognize by the bed leveling. cause probe never over this posisition.

i might make you confuse with my bad english. but i hope you understand. ha ha

May 10, 2017 - Modified May 10, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to tjengbudi

you should set it like this "#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 39"

make sure you don't have it commented out, no "//" at line beginning
also this "#define BLTOUCH" should not be commented out too
if you still have a problem, try another marlin version

The best airway!
Thanks for the design!

May 5, 2017 - Modified May 5, 2017

Love the design and it printed beautifully. Does anyone know if there is a remix for a E3D V6 Clone? I printed it and mounted it but the end of the fangs extend about 4mm past the tip of the nozzle.looks like it may need to be shortened by about 7mm. I tried sliding the fan shroud to a different position but to no avail. Again thanks for the design.

E3D V6 Clone has the same dimensions (mostly)
it sounds like if you printed the volcano version from a remix or something

Interesting, I am using the file published by Lion4H on March 14 2017. I printed the 5015 version .stl. When I look at the model In CURA the model height is 87 mm. When I look at the 4020 version the model height is 78 mm could that possibly be a Volcano version in the 5015 model? Or is the difference in height due to the 40 mm fan vs the 50 mm?

4020 model has a different height than 5015 because of the fan base
try to download a recent version and compare heights for the same model
tip: you might be able to correct the current print, some people used heat gun to move the tube a bit

Thank you so much form your assistance, I figured out my error. My E3D fan shroud was filliped 180 degrees causing the the fang end to be to low. Turned it around and all is good. Thanks again.

thanks for sharing this info

Any chance of doing a 40mm E3d fan version? I want to upgrade my 30mm E3d fan to 40mm but wouldn't be able to mount this :(

try one of the remixes, like this one by jneilliii
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2237084

Radial Fan Fang for Creality CR-10

Any links on what fan to use

most radial fan will fit (5015 or 4020)
search for them

Apr 30, 2017 - Modified Apr 30, 2017

Hello, any chance of titan aero support? with bltouch if possible.

EDIT: also i know im asking alot lol, but possible on the heat block screws not the fan?

thanks

it need critical change to the design, it'll be hard and long process without the actual part
I'm not sure why by STEP files does not match reality

for those using radial fan, how do you control the speed? Via the pwm fan output on your MKS board?
Won't it have a very high pitch noise at any other speed than full 255?

if you set it to 80% max, you'll have almost the same noise as regular fan

i connected mine to PWM outputs on my board and at any value below 100%, it screams a high pitch noise.

you should connect it to "fan" output on printer board

And the fan output is controlled by pwm

Hi guys,
did anyone a version for the cr-10 stock mount?
If not, is it possible to get a dwg file (autocad)? So i can modify it by my own.
Thnx.

like the one in the remixes ?

The mount should look like this ohne
CR-10 Redesign Fan Mount/Shroud/Duct found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166447

CR-10 Redesign Fan Mount/Shroud/Duct

Unfortunately not, because they dont fit on the stock mount of the cr-10

Radial Fan Fang for Creality CR-10

looks good, but it also needs this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2160958
but my idea is to mount it directly on the stock mount of the fan carrier like donnyb99 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166447

CR-10 40mm Stock Hot End Cooling Duct
CR-10 Redesign Fan Mount/Shroud/Duct

I would like a stock version as well.

me to!!

hi man, nice job:)
can u modify to use it with dual extruder?
thanks

already discussed below, it will not achieve the same optimal design because of two focal point instead of one currently
but someone already made a mix anyway for dual nozzle
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209349

Radial Fan Fang Chimera

Do you have a version to fit a e3d v6 and titan combo?

it will fit, someone already confirmed

are these optimally angled and the right length for the stock tevo hot end assembly? i've used an older model of this fan duct but i'm having a hard time keeping my nozzle temps stable and high throughout a print

there was an issue with an earlier update for 5015, please download it again

im currently using the latest iteration of it.

i think either angling the top part of the tip down more to direct the air would help or have it to where the upper part of the tip is slightly lower than half of the nozzle length or parallel to the nozzle tip.

i ordered some hot end insulators hoping they will help.

someone used heat gun to make it a bit soft, then bent it a bit,
but you don't want to reach the nozzle tip height, or else it'll collide with the print

Hey do you think you can adapt the "mouthpiece", right where the fan should attach, to accomodate either one of these two puppies? http://www.ebay.es/itm/Ventilador-12V-2-cables-Reprap-Impresora-3D-Prusa-FAN-Cooler-40x40x20-I0025-/201633351488?hash=item2ef248c740

http://impresoras3dlowcost.com/180-ventilador-turbina-40x40x20.html?search_query=ventilador&results=16

They seem to have a much wider opening for the air.

it is already there, download the 4020 model

Oh nice! Thanks!

This printed great and looks awesome. One issue I'm having is its cooling the tip of the nozzle causing blockages

what type of hot end you have? and which fan?
did you tightened the nozzle all the way before tightening the "throat" ?

I have an E3d v6 clone, everything's tightened. It's most likely because it's a clone that the nozzle sticks a few mm to far out
The design is awesome though and really blows

it should be fine even for clone, I'm guessing you didn't notice that you can move the hotend fan up and down
did you plug it too high ?

I spent the other day polishing the heatbreak on the clone and it's working beautifully!
Absolutely brilliant cooling on the print

Ok completely ignore this. I keep getting a blockage and assumed this is the reason as nothing else makes sense. I just got another block with no fan attached

Super design works like a champ :)

Any chance you could link to your LED strip source? I'm buried in options. Been searching for a while now.

Apr 10, 2017 - Modified Apr 10, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to barrettdent

I don't see the issue, they are everywhere, search for "led strip" or for aluminum "led aluminum strip"
they are all 12v, grouped by 3 led, anyone should work fine

Apr 10, 2017 - Modified Apr 10, 2017
barrettdent - in reply to Lion4H

Yes, they most certainly are everywhere. LED strip comes in a billion different variations. For starters the spacing isn't standard and can vary quite significantly. The wattage of strips certainly isn't standard. Nor is the color temperature or the lumen output per foot. The LED chips themselves come in a dizzying number of variations - and are almost always noted. Which all adds up to rather startling array of differences.

Case in point: https://www.ledworld.ca/product-category/led-strip-light/12v-led-flex-strip/

I was not kidding that I have been searching for a while. On and off for about a month actually. (Not just for this project.)

If you knew what you'd used, it would have been nice to know. Your pic is showing just about perfect results for this application. But ultimately, you're right - people can just roll the dice on any old $50 roll of LED strip and hope to get similar results.

Sorry to bother you.

P.S. The duct design is brilliant. Nice work.

Apr 10, 2017 - Modified Apr 10, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to barrettdent

Indeed, there are so many wattage and colors,
but for the length, I think it is standard to have 36 led in 50cm led aluminum strip,
whish is about 4.1cm for 3 leds, exactly what you need,
however, you still have more space to fit 5 or 6cm if you like, it'll get out of mount though
for me, I bought a good one, which I regret, I got overlighted object like you see in the photo,
I'm thinking of covering it with some sheet to dim it a bit,
so I advice you to buy a cheap led strip, which has low wattage, 50cm cost you about $2
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-led-aluminum-strip.html?groupsort=1&SortType=price_asc&g=y

Apr 11, 2017 - Modified Apr 11, 2017
barrettdent - in reply to Lion4H

Thanks. I hadn't even been looking at the hard backed stuff. That was obviously a mistake on my part. Appreciate the pointer. Much more economical way to get short lengths. I still ultimately need to buy a roll for another project (custom enclosure.) But that's not top priority. So buying the short hard strip is a lot better option to get the underside of the fan lit.

So I printed this... My gosh does this thing blow! lol

Two problems, though. One is that the fan supports are so thin that they are easily broken. I may have to try to play with that if I can figure out Blender (highly doubtful!)

Secondly, when I use the 50x15 fan, I am suddenly getting whispy thin streamers similar to this - http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#hairy-print . I've dropped the fan speed down to 90% and set retraction to 6.5mm (from the 4.5 I've been using) and I still get those. Any suggestions?Thanks.

thanks for feed back,
fan support/holders should be more flexible than breakable, they don't carry heavy load or something,
they are printed in a way it is not possible to break them, you can only bend them,
if they are broken, then your filament is bad and need to be changed

about strings, 6.5m retraction is the normal low, try between 6 and 9mm
also try to increase retraction speed, and lower hotend temperature

Awsome...!!!!

How about a dual nozzle version ??? ;-)

Kind regards...!
Javier.

as I mentioned below, this design has single focal point, dual nuzzle need different design to do it, something like trident
however, someone already made a mix for it, same design

Great... thanks... I will try to find it...!!!

What are the chances of making one to fit a stock MK7 or MK9 hot end?

i'm not sure, it might be fit

Is there a 5020 fan version?

it looks like very rare edition, you need to modify it your self

Great fan design. Have you considered one with two 5015 fans next to each other ? Nearly enough space to fit them in and you cannot have too much power :) :)

thanks, It is already powerful, even when I'm using the small fan (4020),
two fans might be needed when you have less efficient fanduct design, like some designs with 90 degree angle (air collision and elimination) and unfocused air blowing end (not all output air hit the sweet point)
in this design, two big fans might push the print so hard that it bend the pointy ends or columns which will ruin the print
I even recommend to set the 5015 fan to 80% maximum

I've seen a couple of other comments requesting a version that mounts to a 40mm hot end fan. I would like to add to that list of requests for those of use that are using upgraded 40mm fans blowing on our hot ends. I am not really good with blender and trying to use the same steps you described to modify the length of the fangs doesn't work for the piece that screws to the hot end fan.

Apr 5, 2017 - Modified Apr 5, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to jneilliii

there are so many combination of component, I tried to make a wizard to generate your own fan,
unfortunately, the app on thingiverse does not support blender, only cad files
so if I want to add a 40mm edition, I'll double the numbers of files here, some people already find it hard to pick from 6 models
a quick help in design if you can try blender, not optimal, but quick and easy fix:

  • press 3 "on num panel" to face front
  • show fan screws by clicking on the eye in the objects menu
  • press Ctrl + Shift + Alt + c, to center object origin
  • change dimensions to 32mm or more to fit the 40mm fan

i don't know how much screws space should be, it is better to print the panel only, so you can test

gif:
http://imgur.com/a/wbM5i

Apr 10, 2017 - Modified Apr 10, 2017
auggie246 - in reply to Lion4H

but most of the fan will still be block but the panel. I think I should be able to enlarge the "hole" too

Is the uploaded blender file only for the one with no sensor or does it contain BLtouch model too

and hence I said "not optimal, but quick and easy fix"
you can also select all hotend fan hole points and scale them up too
the included blender file does contain all sensors mounts,
select the only one you want on export

Any chance of one for the Green SN-04 sensor?

what is the best orientation to print this? Im trying to figure it out... :p

As the author has arranged and there is the best option. Just need to enable support and play around with the options.

This works with my BLTouch and E3D. Thank you!

Which version did you use for BLTouch and E3d hotend? There are several thing files. Kind of confused as to which to use for E3d. Thanks

Mar 30, 2017 - Modified Mar 30, 2017
edjrwinnt - in reply to Spatz0r

The one marked with BLTouch. I had to trim my bracket on top of the x-carriage for the fan duct to fit. I use the aluminum modular x-cartridge from Frankhauser.

all for E3d and tevo stock, use the one with BLTouch in name, compatible with your fan (5015?)

OK, thanks. I use a blower fan currently. Not sure if that is 5015. Will give it a try.

5015 = 50mm X 15mm
4020 = 40mm X 20mm

Thanks for info, however, z may vary depending on the used hotend and how much nozzle is tightened

what size screws do i use to affix it to the hotend fan, or are they the stock screws? Great design, Thanks in advance!!

same stock screws

I love this design - thank you ! Do you recommend PLA or ABS for this ?

thanks, both are fine

The 4020 STL is a non manifold object. In S3D I have a half layer skipped. Layer 260, if its 0.2 mm resolution. Its just wierd.
Bytheway, Is it allowed to modify for my own printer, right?

I don't see that issue, I tested it on many slicers
and you can modify and use it for your own project

Propably just a bug. I re-opened it, and its slices like a charm, without that issue.

i would love to print this, but i use sn04 probe
you think you can come up with something?

This one have many issues, short detecting distant, does not work with glass,
i have it but do not use it, i prefer manual leveling on it, because I have glass bed anyway
I thought most people already moved on, I might support it realllllly have time

Hi Haitham, I really like your fanduct design and I want to use this on my printer but I also need a version to mount the SN04 inductive probe that I am currently using. I have no knowledge of CAD and much as I would want to modify your design to fit the SN04 probe, it will take me time to learn 3D design and right now what I want to do is print the fan duct and print supports for my Tevo.

So if you can just find the time to modify your design to incorporate the SN04 I would very much appreciate your generosity and understanding. Much power to your designs!

Thanks.

Rio Hernandez

Done, SN04 edition ready for download, please give a feed back and X,Y shift

Hi Haitham, A BIG THANK YOU !!! This means so much to me :-) If you don't mind, I posted a message on the FB Tevo community announcing this redesign to accommodate the SN04. For sure there are a lot of SN04 users that will be printing and using your design.

FYI, I actually already printed yesterday a version of the LPA fan duct with a cutout for the SN04. I haven't even used this yet and will only be using one time to print your Fan Fang and then it goes to my museum of prints ... haha :-)

BTW what do you mean by X,Y shift? Is this the distance from hotend tip to the sensor? Thanks again.

Rio

very glad it helps you,
the X,Y shift is the value that need to be added in firmware in order to prevent from probing while sensor is out of the bed

I also use the Sn04 and would appreciate a version if you have the time :)

Please make a 40mm heatsink fan version. Thank you.

This has my vote as well

Mar 21, 2017 - Modified Mar 21, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to SubarUTE

this would be a critical modification, not sure if I have the time to it for now
but you can always do it your self using Blender

Use the search. She is, she has long been pridmali. But it is not effective. The 40mm blower has a weak flow

I am talking about E3D 40mm heatsink fan to this 5015 radial fan fang version. I am not using stock 30mm E3D fan.

neat video test by ruiraptor to compare fanducts print results, including this one, thanks

You say this works for the E3D hotends, does this mean the V6 with titan direct, if not, is this possible? if so..how? i can not visualize this.

Not sure what is your setup exactly, but it is installed tilted, so there is a big margin around e3d nick
here is a photo: http://imgur.com/a/EcY4O

last message for today (I hope). Do you plan on adding the E3D Aero to the design? Just installed this on my machine and it is great and want to use it on both my printers. and seeing the Aero really lacks layer cooling support at the moment this would be an awesome addition.

I'm glad it fit nice on titan, I'd like to see a photo.
for S3D, some one too mentioned in comments a missing layer while slicing with it, then it works fine for him, he think it is an S3D bug
I slice it on many slicer, didn't get that missing layer, maybe something related to S3D slicing settings?
the tube is one piece, and the other tube is just a mirror, they should both have the exact same slicing result.
as for Fusion 360, I'm limited to Blender exporting format (.dae .abc .3ds .fbx .bvh .ply .obj .x3d .stl)
I think you should try and find proper method to import blender file from your side.
I didn't get the part of "lacking layer cooling support"... more details ?

I'll try slicing it with Cura or Slic3r and let you know. also, what I meant was, because the E3D Aero is so new, there are not many (or any at the moment) layer cooling fans that have been designed for it and was wondering if your design could be easily adapted to the new setup, unfortunately they decided to rotate the fan 45 degrees. Fusion 360 will work with OBJ files. I'll get some pictures for you soon, I had to ziptie my fan duct on because my E3D cooling fan duct is loose and the added weight made it unstable, other than that, it works amazing.

it can be edited for titan Aero, but I'll see if there is demand on it because my limited time
there is already an obj file, but I importing blender file to a proper format for you will give you the ability to grap a point to control the duct curve

Also, would you be willing to provide a file that would work in Fusion 360, i'd like to try and merge it with this thing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:222873/#files so that its all one part.

Fan Duct for E3D All Metal Hot End V5
Comments deleted.

OK i've printed this and it fits up nice but for some reason when i slice this in S3D i get a missing layer on the left duct causing a weak point that breaks quite cleanly on that one side. I thought it was just a failed print the first time but the second one did the same thing and when i reviewed it layer by layer, there is one missing. any ideas of what I could be doing to cause this?

I'm currently working on a D-bot and the setup is installed sideways, thank you for that image though, I did not realize it attached to the 30mm cooling fan of the E3D. Thank you for that.

Mar 18, 2017 - Modified Mar 18, 2017

Hi, LionH4. Thanx for your great job!
I used your source file and customized the fan for E3D V6 Volcano.
Hope I do not violate any rights ))

Is that for Titan, too? If so, want to share?

My pleasure

This looks great! What would be the easiest way to make it work with a 12mm sensor rather than an 18mm one?

measure your max nut diameter, if it is more than 18, then it could work
18 sensor nut max diameter is about 27mm

First off this is an awesome design and solves a lot of the problems I've had with looking for a good cooling solution. However I was wondering if you might be able to edit the fangs to be a bit wider to fit the e3d chimera dual extruder hotend, if it isn't too much work. Thanks in advance.

E3D Chimera stl http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:681903/#files

E3D Cyclops and Chimera
by mkelly
Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to Davidspek

thanks for link,
chimera need totally different, this design has one focal point, dual nozzle need some design like trident to achieve two focal points,
or just shattering the air in all directions like some "surrounding" designs.

Thanks for your reply. Was very busy so hadn't thought of the aerodynamics yet, indeed this wouldn't work very well. I do still love the design though. Maybe there is a way to use this design for its looks in a different setup, but that will be a project for me for another day perhaps.

Is it possible to deisgn one for a 40mm fan for the e3d heatsink

I'm trying to push 3d printing forward, to make it easier with less problems.
as some tests and charts online proved that radial fan is better for layers, I made this design, to promote the radial fans, make it easier to adopt.
I don't want people to stick with less useful solutions, so I'm not publishing design for regular fans,
you can still modify the design your self though,
I'm no 3d expert, but blender is very easy.

You got me wrong. I mean the fan for the heat sink. Are u using 30mm or 40mm. Looks like u are using 30mm. If so can u design one for 40mm fan for the HEATSINK

Mar 16, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to auggie246

I just missed the last word, my bad,
40mm will make the whole design bigger, I might look at it after finishing the BLTouch if I still have time.

yea sure !!! thanks in advance wink wink
I use 40mm is because its much quieter imo. my 30mm just goes crazy

It's the "calm the fk down" fan! Lol just kidding this is awesome!!!

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 15, 2017

Will this fit a wanhao i3/prusa i3? Currently got the DIII cooler, but being able to see things would definitely be a plus

your hotend fan seems to face the left side, so one tube will go between it and the x-carriage bar
i don't see enough space there

any plans for a e3d version

Mar 15, 2017 - Modified Mar 16, 2017
Lion4H - in reply to auggie246

this one for E3D and others

Comments deleted.

Hice! Thanks. i'm print this now )

Any chance you could modify the design to take a 40mm fan on the top, instead of a radial fan? If so, it would be perfect for all four of my printers!

there is a design for normal fans already
http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=fang+fan
I wonder if it gives more air flow than 4020 though

I got a 75X75X30mm radial fan... any idea on how to connect it or is it just easier to buy a 4020? I'm just concerned that the 4020 doesn't blow enough air.. could just give a link to your radial fan please?

here is a link:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=fan+4020

7530 looks very big, isn't it very noisy?
4020 do the job perfectly, you are not wasting air here
but you can go for 5015

Its actually pretty quiet but I'll take your word, i will find a 4020 then :) thanks for your response!

3dNoob question, but what size radial fan is it designed for?

two sizes:
4020 (40mmX20mm)
5015 (50mmX15mm)

Perfect, thanks! Have a tarantula coming to my doorstep soon, this'll be one of my first additions once I get it up and running.

it would be awesome if you can export it to step or iges from blender!

thanks!, good work!

I'm no 3d designer, it is just that blender is easy to learn.
there is no such types in export list, there are many others, maybe you can import or convert blender files

can you export to .obj please

I added .obj file, but it'll be hard to use
.blend file have the "modifiers" as not hard applied, so you can grap a point and move the hole curve, increase tube end... etc
I still recommend to properly import or convert blend file to the required format

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