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GregoryHolloway

Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1 E3D Titan Aero Upgrade

by GregoryHolloway Mar 24, 2017
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Can you please make an Volcano fan shroud or upload the step file for the existing fan shroud?

So quick question will this work with the stock melzi board? Do I need to change anything in firmware?

In the files picture 64 you twist wire 3 and 4 but this didn't work.
I have twist 4 and 6, now he turns the other way.

love this mount any way a sensor mount could be added I have an 18mm one would like to add

Hello, I am BRAND NEW to printing. I have the MP Maker Select V2. Now, I MIGHT be misunderstanding some of these comments and answers, but did you say that I WOULDN'T need to do anything with my firmware to use the Titan Aero with this mount? Just switch around some of the motor wires?

Thank you

Greg any chance of releasing the raw files for the fan? Id like to modify it slightly so that I can create more of a shroud. I find these work better as the airflow is a bit more uniform.

It is just a standard 50x50x15 blower fan. I have however added the .f3d of the cad i used. I think it's from grabcad but I'm not certain.

My bad, I meant the fan shroud. I think I can modify it in Fusion 360 actually so ill give that a crack and upload it as a remix.

Just FYI - the x-belt holder would not hold the belt tight for me so I had to extend extra belt on each side and use 2 zip ties on each side. JUst FYI - like the design otherwise.

has anyone used this with the original stepper motor/figured out the correct e steps?

For those of you looking for a Cii-cooler type part-cooler, I designed one that mounts to the front that takes the place of the 2 nylon spacers:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756013

Front Titan Aero 360 Layer Fan Shroud

I'm planning to upgrade mine too with a 2.85mm system.
Why to upgrade the Firmware? Did you also need to adjust the stepper E-Step settings?

No need to upgrade the firmware if you don't want to. You can change the steps per mm via the LCD.

Thanks, so I will get the Aero Upgrade with 2.85mm :-)

This will fit the normal Titan aero correct? it's not the mirrored version.

So I recently installed it and had a lot of issues with underextrusion. It turns out the acetal gear wasn't moving freely and I couldn't even budge with my hand. Thinking it was that the gear was hitting the side of the mount, I drilled it the rectangular hole in the mount larger. This helped a bit, but the gear only spins when I loosen all the heatsink screws by 3/4 a turn, and still with friction.

Edit: I think it may be due to the steel pinion gear is above the height of the acetal gear and it's being pinched, according to e3d wiki, though they offer no solution to this

Hi,

Contact support@e3d-online.com!

Comments deleted.

Made a holder for the I3 plus circuit board if someone needs it..

THIS IS PERFECT i was thinking of just zip tying the board in place

Can you please add a version of your duct that is aimed 7.5mm lower, to clear a volcano hotend setup? The mounting and nozzle can stay the same, it just needs an extension in the middle to drop it down. Thanks, the rest of it is working great!

I cant get the belt tensioner on the z axis to fit as my bearing blocks on my printer are different and ideas on how to remedy please the ones in to photos are quite rounded and mine are more square and dont allow for the belt tensioner to be mounted correctly.

Have you got the a i3 plus? I had to change my lower bearing holder to a standard I3 one then it fits fine, saves a bit of weight also.

There are no belts on the Z-Axis, they use leadscrews.

I'm guessing you mean the X-Axis?

I have added the editable .f3d files. You'll need to edit them in Fusion 360 to fit your machine.

thanks gregory,

yes typo, i meant the x axis

Would this work with the Wanhao i3 plus?

The belt tensioner won't clear the lower aluminium bearing block, I'm going to replace it with the standard plastic type then try again.
The rest of it looks ok so far at least..

Now that i finally have my printer ive been doing some testing and im in the process of modifying this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1627172
for it to fit on the back with it. it'll be a work in progress do to me not having an aero and making sure everything fits ok

WANHAO Di3 - X-Axis Ratchet Strap Tensioner and Deflector v1.0 & v2.0

Looks like a neat solution that.

I do not know. I don't have an i3 Plus.

from what i've looked into and the images i've seen it seems like stuff for the Wanhao v2.1 would fit the Plus (just the hot end stuff) im printing a few test pieces now

How did it work out for you on the plus? I'm printing two sets now for 2.1 and plus

It worked well I'm using another mount now but it was not that bad

What mount are you using?

Would it be possible for someone to remix the layer fan cooler in this thing to mix with something along the lines of the ciiicooler? The current fan shroud on this does not get enough air around the prints. Thanks in advance

Does someone have a Marlin Firmware file for me for the Rampz?
For the Titan aero?

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin

It's easier to configure than you think and you'll learn a tremendous amount doing so.

I'm loving this. The only thing id change would be an adjustable belt tensioner on the X axis and a remixed Ciii or Diii cooler for the part cooler. I'm hoping to Frankenstein them together myself.

Design looks solid. Definitely going to give this a shot to get the titan in place.

So, I'm not seeing where the heat shrink (tubing?) comes in. Everything else looks relatively intuitive.

To cover up the solder joints if you choose to replace the heater cartridge and temperature sensor with E3D parts.

Ah, thanks.

Another question, now that I am actually doing this; what is happening in images 10 through 12 in part one?

Did you just replace the timing belt? The shot of the Z axis motor (10) in particular interests me.

The position of the Z-Endstop and I'm making the motor cable poke out the back of the drag chain.

Did you adjust the stepper current in anyway for the titan pancake motor?

https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/nema17-stepper-motor is currently what I am using and i think its having trouble turning the extruder

Nopes I didn't, but you may need to....

Problem fixed, I think my retraction settings were too high (set for the old hotend) and were causing partial/full clogs. I performed a cold pull, double checked everything then put the extruder back together and it seems to be working fine.

Side question -- How did you determine how tight to have the idler arm? Turn it until the motor wont turn the gear, then back it off a quarter turn?

https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/Titan_Assembly#Adjusting_Idler_Force

Only as tight as it needs to be. The motor stopping due to too much tension on the idler is a bad situation, things will break.

Finished the swap, and am learning the titan aero now. Fantastic piece of hardware.

Notes -- If your extruder motor runs in reverse you need to rever the wires at the control board. You can force the plug to fit backwards or you can reverse the wires in the plug. There are firmware options, but if you run stock Melzi thats a pain to do.

If you have issues finding square nuts in store, you can easily print them out. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:781885 . you just may have to adjust the size. I will edit and post the remixes at some point.

If you have issues finding the spacers, they are also available for printing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606960 . Just cut the z size down to 3mm in your slicer. I can post remixes of these as well.

Overall its a solid project and worked really well. Will have to post pictures

M3 M4 Square nut 2020
by Weeper
22mm M3 spacer for Firefly Pro

After doing a lengthy amount of research I have not reached a conclusion to what I need to do to my printer's firmware in order for it to accept the new thermistor and heater cartridge, as you appear to have your e3d components working would it be at all possible for you to share what steps you took after doing the manual installation? I've hit a dead end and really want to get my printer up and running but really have no idea what to do, there are so many different websites saying I need to do various different things but I'm rather new to the whole firmware side so any guidance would be greatly appreciated, thanks! :)

I didn't change anything. It should work. You will probably need to PID autotune the hotend though....

http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

Comments deleted.

probably the cables are wired wrong. Check the datasheet for your motor and make sure the wiring is correct. If you want to test things plug in the old motor and make sure it still works.

After staring blankly at the pdf for about 10 minutes trying to understand it I have concluded that I have no idea what I am doing, is there just a few cables that need swapping around? Looking at the comment below is it just the middle two that I will have to swap over?

Yup. Look at the photos in the assembly instructions.zip files. The two inner wires swap positions and cross over.

Comments deleted.

Printed out the parts in PETG, hoping to install it this week.

One more question for you sir (and your file might explain it, but I am currently away from my PC).

In your pictures I see you remove and change the connector for the extruder motor. Did you have to switch wires around at all, or do they stay the same location. I have this motor https://www.filastruder.com/collections/electronics/products/nema17-stepper-motor to install with my Titan Aero.

Thank you again for designing this. The pieces looks excellent and I cant wait to get back up and running with this.

Hi,

You need to swap the wires around. It is shown in the photos. If I remember right the two inner wires are reversed.

thats exactly what I thought was the case, just wanted to confirm verbally before moving forwards.

Thanks for being so helpful during this set up sir!

What type filament should I print this in? PLA or something more heat resistant like PETG or ABS?

Just had my aero come in, will be printing this shortly. Thanks for making this!

Just installed with the remix for bltouch. Nice work! everything worked except for the y axis end stop, it didn't go out far enough so I just didn't install it for now. I didn't test the adapter for the z endstop either since I'm using bltouch but the x axis was just fine on the extruder assembly. I am currently running a print to house my mosfet board but will see how much Z I get out of this with the Z extensions installed.

Where did you get the BLtouch remix. I am looking to put one of those on as well.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2271321 is the one I printed out to be installed

Wanhao i3 V2.1 Titan Aero with BLTouch mount

What's the weight of the total package? Compared to stock ?

More I expect, but I have not weighed them.

Hi. Thanks for posting this, I will be using this in the coming week or so for the upgrade. Just a quick question. Where did you use the M3 Nylon Spacers? Do you have a link for the spacer you used? Amazon is rather opaque on whether m3 3mm nylon spacers are 3mm diameter, or thickness. Thanks in advance.

I printed my own spacers. Here is the code I created in openscad to make them:
Note: needed to add three 3mm spacers for the screws, I used the following OpenSCAD code:
$fn=360;
difference() {
cylinder(d=5.5, h=3);
cylinder(d=3.6, h=3);
}

Okay, and where are these screws for? I haven't received the Aero yet so I don't know what this is for.

download the files and look at the included install pictures. You'll see them in the picture named 24.jpg. :)

Ok, so they are for the heatsink.

hello i want to buy the titan aero fior my wanhao are you print with the titan?is better for stock?

Where did you get your stepper?

Thanks for the work, but I've run into a few problems :(

1) The Titan Aero now ships with a 40mm stepper, so the stepper hits the frame before the stop switch does.
2) The holes, notably the stop switch and rear blower, are too large, and don't retain the screws when you thread them in (I ran several tests to see if my dimensions were off with 10mm/20mm cubes, and my dimensions are just about spot on)
3) The rear fan prevents the use of any bearing block other than stock, or the use of belt tensioners.

Sorry, I don't want to be that guy who just wants to complain, so what can I do to help? I'm not great at modeling, so a remix would likely be a disaster. I posted this picture to show you the difference in the clearances - http://imgur.com/a/PY68M - hope this helps!

Hi,

My suggestions are...

1: get a smaller motor :)
2: Use longer screws that go through? Or add +0.25mm X/Y offset to fill the holes.
3: Don't use the belt tension springs, they allow the belt to stretch and can cause print dimensional errors. They should be banned! Pull the belt tight by hand. You should be able to get more than enough tension by hand.

It was designed to use the stock bearing blocks. It would be a major redesign, of in fact a totally new design to change to different bearings.

The obvious fix here is to remix the design. There are a huge number of tutorials and videos online for Fusion 360. As it happens this mod was my first attempt at using Fusion 360 and Sketches. I used to use 123D Design but it has been closed down. It isn't anywhere as hard as you might expect.

Give it a go......

What is considered the "stock bearing"? 2x LM10UU?

Usually its LM8UU, but that depends on the make and model of the printer.

I only ask because the tolerances for the carriage will be very different if it doesn't match the printer. I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. I believe it's a rebrand of the Duplicator i3.

Hi Thanks for all the work.
Have you used Standard or mirrored version? What stepper have you used?

Hi,

Standard version and you can use a 26mm or 34mm stepper motor. Make sure to print the correct carriage to match.

I'm planning to use 20mm pancake stepper. Do I need to adjust the bracket for the x stop end or 26mm version is on the edge of the bed anyway?

Thanks for this post. Its very well put together. ive been looking into this extruder and there isnt a lot of people with opinions on it. how are you liking it so far?

Hi,

It works very well, my only quibble is the electronics. They are very limited in scope and I will upgrade to something much more capable in the future. I shall maybe write a how-to when I do it.

What sort of issues you've had with electronics?

You can't run any autoleveling or advanced features.

What thermistor are you using? Have you used an original Melzi board?

Hi,

I am using E3D's Thermistor | http://e3d-online.com/Thermistor-Cartridge

I used the original Melzi board that came with the printer.

how did you update the firmware for the new thermistor?

I didn't. It seems to work fine.

Nice work! Will you post some more closeup pictures ? Is it possible to "mirror" the bracket? I would like to have the gear wheel to be on the front, making it easier to remove grind dust etc.

Kind regards Mads

There are a load of photographs in the included zip files.

Anything is possible, including mirroring the bracket. The step files are included so you can do that :)

Hi there,
Please forgive my ignorance, I am ordering an Aero and am wondering, do i need to print and install all of the files or are there various options? I have a wanhao i3 v2.1.

Hi,

All the files, but only one of the X-Carriages. Check the motor body length and print the relevant one. No need to change any firmware. Refer to the zipped image files.

how about a print before after aero? i am considering an upgrade but i don't know if will improve print quality other than marketing.

Unfortunately I do not have a a before and after print available to show. Have a wonder over to the E3D forum and ask :)

https://forum.e3d-online.com

Can you add a mount for the bltouch please?

I will see what I can do.......

Awesome mod. I have plans to this, but with bltouch. Have you looked into this. Thanks!

I haven't, no. However there is a remix already....

Hi Gregory,
I know you've been busy with making the other models for the Titan Aero, but was wondering if you've had a chance to work on this or if you know when you can? Appreciate you looking into it! :)

Hi,

I haven't looked yet. Not sure when I will get a chance to. Have a try yourself, the STEP files are included and Fusion 360 is free for home users.

Regards

Greg

OK, made the changes and uploaded a remix of it for both carriage sizes.

Not gonna lie... I'm getting really... really... really frustrated with Fusion 360. LOL

How in the heck did you extend out the side for the larger motor? I know it sounds like a simple thing, but when you've never used the software before, it's far from simple.

Update: Guess it took getting frustrated enough to whine about it to figure it out. Printing it in the morning and will give it a try.

That was quick :-)
Can you use the Wanhao stock stepper or is it best to get the new mini ? Do you need the mounting bracket option with the aero? Thanks

Hi,

The design uses a 34mm body motor, which is what comes with the Titan Aero as an option. You do not need the mounting bracket.

Does this mount up fine with the V2.1 bearing blocks? It looks like that is all that remains of original extruder gear.

Hi,

Yes it uses the bearing blocks.

I should've come back and deleted my comment / question. Your photo instructions explain everything. Thanks for taking the time to make this and share with us.

It is on my list... now i just need to have a problem to justify getting it :)

What about the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus? There is more room in the Z for the i3 Plus than the i3 V2, and no X axis cable chain to worry about. I see that you have also made this mount kit for the Prusa Mk2. Any chance you could design what is needed for the Wanhao i3 Plus?

Hi,

I don't have an i3 plus to develop on unfortunately. If one comes my way at a later date then I will certainly have a look!

I have the i3 plus and made a mount, it's setting the steps that I'm trying to figure out now

You should be able to set it with M92 E417.5 but I am not sure if the firmware supports it. Check | http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code

You might also find the filament runs backwards, if it does swap the wires around.

I got the steps working, sort of, it loses them from the memory when setting through the LCD occasionally, the wire swap- did you swap the center 2 wires or what? it's hard for me to tell as one picture has all wires out

I did, but only because the stepper motor I was using has the motor coils wired differently to the Wanhao supplied motor. If are using the Wanhao supplied motor you don't have to do it.

I have the e3d supplied motor, it was going in reverse the plus of course has all wires unmarked.

I've no experience with the plus so I'm not sure about the wiring. If it runs/ran in reverse just uplug and rotate 180 before plugging back in again. Don't dross the two centre wires.

There is no way to turn 180, other than pull all wires and put back in reverse order as both ends are locking plugs

That's what you'll have to do, or change the firmware and reverse the stepper motor direction.

Testing the OEM vs the e3d, OEM pair1 is pins 1+4, pair 2 pins 2+6. E3d pair 1 is pins 1+3, pair 2 is pins 4+6

OEM wiring harness has pins 2+3 on machine side flipped at connector making machine side pin 2 into pin 4, machine side pin 3 into pin 3. E3d harness has the same layout.

Just food for thought if you ever re-design this, if you switched to a front mounted fan, you could move the entire extruder assembly up quite a bit and run with the x-axis rods just a few mm above the bed. That, combined with the Z-axis extensions, and this extruder is small enough to hit close to 200mm print height.

Hi :)

The issue I ran into is that the Titan itself gets in the way of the top cross-over of the frame. The fan on the rear has no impact on the limit of Z.

With the x-axis mounted to the rear of the frame the extruder has to protrude out the front, ergo the frame gets in the way. The original Wanhao extruder is not as tall and doesn't have a problem, but this is no doubt why they limit Z to 180mm.

However I think that all the other benefits you get from running the Aero far far outweigh everything else :)

Does this uprade impact on x axis build volume?

X & Y are unchanged, Z is a little tight and you do need to tighten down the bed to get the full 180mm.

I am currently getting 173mm on Z with the V6 & Titan combo, so in theory should get nearer 198mm with the Aero. I am running a 25mm 18Ncm stepper motor. Is yours a similar spec?

i just installed mine i am getting 205mm on my z

I would be interested to see your setup. The Titan on my carriage hits the frame and can't really go above 180mm.