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CaseStudyno8

The Darksaber

by CaseStudyno8 Mar 19, 2017
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Love your design mate. Just trying to work out how I can fit it with an actual blade and electronics.

Think I have come up with a plan however Ill need to break up the emitter section and that is being a pain in Fusion.

This design is AMAZING. I'm almost finished printing it now. I love it. Has anyone modeled a blade for it? I don't have the resources to cut plexi, and would love to just print a blade instead. Thanks!

Thanks! I've seen some projects making blades for it, but none that we're printed.

I just made this model with my CR-10 and I love it.

That's high praise coming from the clone commander in charge of the droid attack against the Wookies! Thank you! Feel free to share some pictures of it if you'd like, I would love to see it.

are supports needed?

I used supports on the emitter guard

Are any pieces over 160 mm tall

The tallest piece is about 127MM

How impossible is this with a simple FDM (Prusa i3 type) Printer? I want to print it and finish it for a prop secret santa, but that level of detail....it seems VERY difficult without an SLA... What do you think?

The model you see in my pictures was printed on a an ultimate 2, an fdm printer

Well, thats a damn fine printer then. With a .4 nozzle?

You talked me into it. Ill be sure to post the finished product.
Thanks for answering questions, great work on the modeling.

I am thinking of printing this design at the college I am attending and they charge by the gram, how much does the saber in whole weigh in grams? Thanks!

--Logan

Awesome designs, as always!!

After printing this one, I noticed the triangle on the bottom was on the wrong side. I think you used a flipped image as reverence?

You're totally right! I went back into rhino and mirrored the lower grip piece so that is now on the correct side. Thanks!

  • CaseStudyno8Can you make Starkiller's (Galen Marek) light saber Please
Comments deleted.

Oh ok. Thanks anyway

I don't plan to do that saber. Not a fan of those games.

Hi dude,

Can this be hollowed out to fit a 25mm white led?.
You see I created a darksaber blade that fits well in my Ultrasabers Lightsaber ... See the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQtM-iI6Vzs

I wanted to create a more screen curate replica ...

Did you find a way to make the light work? I'm planning to print this and want to get lights in it for my wife's Sabine cosplay.

Nope, I wasn't able to make the light work.
I have the 25mm LED from Ultrasabers that I was support to use but this model is too thin.
I tried to modify the design but it did not do it justice...the blades I created will only look good if the led I use is the one from Ultrasabers...
Otherwise, row LED's do not give my blade justice...

I able to talk to someone who used SMD Led. Maybe you can try that. What will you use for the blade?

I think its definitely possible, your demo in the youtube video looks amazing, I wold love to see it replicated with this handle.

Looks amazing. Are you planning to design a fondable lightsaber like Inquisitor's temple saber and General Pong Krell's. Can you make a Temple Guard version please

Thanks! I've considered doing Krell's saber, I haven't don't much thinking on how the mechanism works, if it's a simple pins the two sides rotate around or something more like a ball joint, either way I don't think it would be too difficult.

I will be waiting thank you

Having issues getting the upper grip to print properly. Have tried two different orientations and it has come out fine to start, but them turns into spaghetti an hour or so into the print.

Printing with Robo3D R1+Plus, sliced with Simplify3D, using PETg filament. Got the other parts printed with no issues...

Alright, seems like the STL rhino exported created some odd surfaces between the features, and the combine everything option in Cura ignored the overlapping surfaces. So, I fixed some things around, re-exported and uploaded a new version of the Upper Grip. Let me know if it works for you.

I just pulled it into simplify; I'm seeing a strange issue that's normally related to model not being water tight, or overlapping or redundant geometry; where I see massive gaps. These are big enough that they would definitely cause the spaghetti issue. Oriented it a few ways, and got the same result. Did you run it through netfabb first or anything on yours, Case?

Edit: Ran it through a self-intersecting surfaces scan; found that there is orphaned geometry and overlapping surfaces; It's interfering with where it sees the walls and surfaces are supposed to meet. I wish I could post a photo of the build preview on my screen, so I can help you both out.

Thanks for checking, I don't use netfabb regularly but I ran it and saw the same thing and the Combine Everything A option in Cura (which is in by default) just ignored it. Anyway, a new version is uploaded now and should be working. Thanks for helping me out.

Printed perfectly now!

Awesome, I'm glad we got it figured out

I just saw the new version; it's awesome! You might want to take a second look at the bottom openings of the file, as I think they still aren't fully connected; but based on what I'm seeing, I think it'll be functional still! :) Regardless, you do excellent work, and we appreciate you looking into this!

Are you using Rhino for model generation?

My uploads are about 50/50 between Rhino and Solidworks. Gungi's and Chirrut's staff were done in ZBrush.

Strange, are you seeing any errors come up in simplify3d? Maybe try Cura if it's a slicer issue

Is this designed in inches or cm?

The STL's were exported in millimeters

Thank you! Have been waiting for someone to make this version for sooooooo long!
Btw. love your designs

when I saw this, it got an instant like

It was a fun one to do. Glad you like it!