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Modular Mounting System

by yyh1002, published

Modular Mounting System by yyh1002 Mar 22, 2017
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Summary

This project is a mounting system for phones and lightweight cameras.

FEATURES:

  • It is designed to be modular to provide flexible use. The system has potential to mount most phones and small cameras onto a wide range of objects. Using same parts printed for different purpose is the major approach.
  • The included phone clamp can grab phones very firmly. And it is suitable for phones from about 55mm wide to 80mm wide (iPhone 4 - iPhone 7 Plus and bigger). The clamp hook was angled 45 degrees so it won't be able to reach and accidentally press the buttons on the side of phone.
  • The modules can be used with GoPro compatible equipment. The bolts and nuts included in the design are standard M5. You can either print them or use metal ones for better stiffness.
  • With this modular system, I will be developing new add-ons to it. Feel free to watch this thing. Many of the objects designed for GoPro are already usable for this setup. I uploaded some STEP files for modular parts so everyone can also collaborate for better solutions.

ACHIEVED APPLICATIONS:

  • Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Ultimaker 2 monitoring.
  • Phone/Camera/GoPro mount for Aluminum extrusion printers.
  • Desk clamp for phone/camera (get the bolt from original author page).
  • Stand for phone/camera.
  • Headphone stand.
  • Bike mount for phone (in remixes)
  • And much more applications in REMIX section

MAKING:

  • In order for the bolts to be strong enough to take pulling force, they cannot be printed vertically. Therefore the bolts are oriented horizontally, with the bottom teeth trimmed off, and with 30 degrees step shape (it is usually 45 if printed vertical). With such treatment the bolts are both strong and easy to print with support material even at 0.2mm layer height.
  • Print bolts and nuts at low outer wall speed (15mm/s) to increase accuracy. If the tolerence for bolts and nuts doesn't workout for you, try change XY compensation setting in slicer to get a larger tolerance. I've also attached the settings used to create them so you could make your own with slightly altered values.
  • Make sure you use metal bolts and nuts for mounting heavy items like camera.
  • It is highly recommended to print with complete support interface for the parts in this project. Support interface would give a flat bottom which result in a better mechanical performance.
  • The orientation of stl files are already thought through during my testing. Try printing at the current orientation unless you run into problems. It is not recommended to reorient the arms to save support material. The tabs will be easy to break if printed otherwise.
  • Mirror the arm one after another in order to have knobs on the same side.

NOTES:

  • It is not recommended to extend the arm too long. General filament is not strong enough to take that much lateral load at this size and the arm would be very wobbly. And the arms are optimized to stay still. If you wish to use this design as selfie stick or similar purpose, please be careful with the material strength and use at you own risk.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Useful Parts

MOUNT BASES:

OBJECT MOUNT:

MULTIPLE AXIS JOINTS:

OTHER KNOBS:

Parts Assembly List

This is the list to indicate which function of the mount the parts belong to.
There is also a drawing made by willemjan for instruction: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:415832


MOUNTING BASE - the base to attach the mount to something:

  • Clip UM2
  • Clip 2020 profile
  • G-clamp
  • Flat stand

ARMS - the foldable arms and connectors:

  • Axis change connector
  • Arm v2 (anything)
  • M5.0 Nut
  • M5x25 D
  • M5 knob short

PHONE CLAMP:

  • Phone clamp down grab
  • Phone clamp up NO tab
  • Phone clamp up WITH tab
  • Phone clamp holder
  • M5x65 D
  • M5.0 Nut
  • M5 knob for phone
  • M5 knob short

CAMERA MOUNT:

  • Camera Mount
  • Camera Screw

Update History

  • 22/03/17 - The phone clamp knob originally uploaded has issue of screw poping out of knob instead of knob pulling the clamp out. A new knob named "M5 knob for phone v2 tighter" with smaller hole is uploaded for the socket to firmly grab the bolt. "Phone clamp down nongrab" is an old backup version which the clamp doesn't pull out while unscrewing the knob.
  • 02/04/17 - More variation of arms. Added more tolerance to the arms.
  • 13/04/17 - A holder that grabs the phone clamp less tight. (Phone clamp holder v2)
  • 20/04/17 - After a period of use, the printed bolts or nuts start to give up, especially the nuts, not able to lock the arms in place. They are more like a temporary solution. I would buy metal bolts to replace them.
  • 24/04/17 - New version of the knob for phone clamp. More convenient to twist. Smaller diameter. (M5 knob for phone v3)
  • 26/04/17 - New version of the knob for the joints with smaller diameter. The long knob is no longer needed. (M5 knob short v3)
  • 09/05/17 - Longer M5x65 bolt for wide phones larger than 5.5 inch. (M5x65_D)
  • 18/05/17 - Mount for lightweight cameras. (Camera Mount & Camera Screw)
  • 18/05/17 - Moved the position of the nut in phone clamp, making it extend 10mm longer with M5x65 bolt. (Phone clamp down v3)
  • 18/05/17 - Slightly more tolerance to holes for bolt. Minor change.
  • 04/06/17 - New version of the knobs with better grip. (M5 knob short v4, M5 knob for phone v4)
  • 31/08/17 - New C clamp with the same width as the arms, not requiring support.
  • 14/02/18 - 4mm thicker phone clamp for phones with case. (Phone_clamp_down_4mm_thicker, Phone_clamp_up_4mm_thicker)
  • 25/04/18 - Headphone stand attachment. (headphone holder.stl)

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What are the best support settings for the "Phone_clamp_holder_v3" I´m printing in PLA on a i3 MK3

Comments deleted.

Started to print parts, and they are going well. Got the 40cm c-clamp, but it would work better if the pivot point was on the top. It could even have both locations to join the arm on to. This could be added to the bigger clamp too.

I put it on the side so the arm can rotate horizontally. The design needs to be more tricky for horizontal rotation if put on top.

i am struggeling with the gopro arms and gopro mounts...
they seems not to fit and if i get them to fit the tabs bend. it seems like the size between the tabs is to tight or the tabs to big :/
or maybe i just have the wrong settings?
trying to use these parts for my gopro.

Did you print the straight or 90 degree arm? It might be the support setting cause z drop. You can use cutter to get rid of one or two layers. I referred to the tabs size of some of the designs for GoPro. I'll check the precise dimensions of GoPro frame to see if the spacing is proper.

It´s so helpful, thank you.

I just printed the "axis_change_connector" . The support material seems to be bonded in between the two horizontal tabs. Whats your solution to getting that out? Is there some setting for support material in slicer that I am missing (possibly raft layers)? BTW printed in abs, .30mm layer height.
support settings -
overhang threshold - 0
enforce for the first - 0
raft layers - 0
contact z distance - 0.2(detach)
pattern - rectilinear
pattern spacing - 2.5
interface layers - 0

You should print with 0.2 layer height because of the dimensions in model. Have at least 1 layer gap between the support and model. Turn on about 4 interface layers. Also not to set temperature for ABS too high.

I try a few times and can't get the bolts and nuts to be good and working.. I printed it with support 15%, 0,2 layer hight, 15 mm/s.. Can you help me to get it right?

Try change XY compensation/horizontal expansion of the nut to make the hole bigger.

that might work

Great system overall, coming into it from Raspberry Pi Camera Mount for CR-10. But the straight arms limit their motion to right around 90 degrees unnecessarily, and could stand a remix version..
Take two arms and put them together loosely, Bend them to 90, and see that it's only part interference that stops them. If the grooves (and correspondingly the tabs) were about 10 or 12 mm longer, it could easily fold back to a 45 deg angle. That wouldn't add much weakness to the tabs and system, but would greatly increase the usability.
Even more, undo the joint. Place one part over the other, holes aligned, but at the 45 degree angle. Notice it needs slots cut further at the edge, but in the center of the arm it doesn't interfere. If you don't see what I'm talking about, lay it at this angle and draw a line on the bottom piece, from the edge of the top piece while held at a 45. Now put the top piece on 45 on the other side. and draw the other edge. The slots need to be 10 or 12 mm deeper at the outside edges of the arms, but it really only has to be about 2 mm back in the center. So there's a V shape in the middle still connecting the 2 or 3 tabs at each end almost out to where the connections end now. Very little strength lost, requires small bridging between the tabs during printing, but it's a short gap and should work well on most printers.
45 degrees isn't even the limit. You could really have the 3 tabs all the way to center, then the 2 tabs from center all the way to the other end, then an internal diamond pattern in the center connecting the tabs. They would still have good connection and reinforcement, but the arms could lay into each other until the center of the sides meet.
Remixed like this the straight arms could fold back on each other to around a 30 degree angle or better. Most items could use the straight arms alone and you'd hardly ever need the arms with the 90 degree tabs on them..
I'll eventually do these myself and I'm getting up to speed on Fusion 360, but it may be a while so putting the idea out there in case anyone else wants it sooner..

This is an awesome system. Thanks for all your efforts to make this so versatile.

I want to mount my phone in a Portrait orientation, like in the all-grey PLA version in the photo. There is no photo that shows how it is mounted on the back side so I don't know which part I need to print. Can you help please?

Refer to the 1st and 9th image. You need the phone clamp holder for vertical orientation.

Duh? Of course, it was too obvious for me to see it! Thanks

Hi

What do you recommend, printing them As-Is or flip them around so that the longest parts are laying on the bed to ensure the most coverage and less supports??

As I said in the description, the orientation of stl files are already thought through during my testing. Try printing at the current orientation unless you run into problems. It is not recommended to reorient the arms to save support material. The tabs will be easy to break if printed otherwise.

really great work! :D

Hello !
This is totally awesome and usefull ! Thank you for you work !
However I would like to extend the clamp because my desk is to large :'(
I can use Solidworks but I can't modify the piece with the .stl file.
Could it be possible for you to send me the file in order that I modify it ?

Thank you for everything !
Alexandre

Hi Alexandre. The STEP files for C clamp are uploaded. But they might not be very suitable for editing.

Thank you ! But I just looked at the clamp and it is much longer than mine ! So it's perfect now !!

I've print the two parts of the phone clam but they didn't fit in each other I hope the other parts work. But great design

Comments deleted.

I'm Italian and I'm printing it now, but I'd like to know if it's possible to have a longer phone clamp, to put on the other side of the phone for more stability (approximately with a maximum distance of 150mm). Thanks for everything. Bye

This is a great thing! my only issue is that the phone clamp is too thin to hold a phone with a case, and only just too. another MM or 2 would go a long way i think.

Just uploaded a 4mm thicker version.

Wow! You're amazing! thanks a lot!

I would like to print the Camera-Version with the Phone stand. What files i do need? Im from germany and its a bit difficult to understand the name of files. I think, at least i missed the file between camera mount and arm. Whats the file name of the connector? And which short screws i have to use for connecting the arms?

"Phone_clamp_holder" is the one connects camera mount to the arm. M5x25 connects arms, as indicated in the drawing with legend.

Very nice design nothing to say because all the pices that I printed was fine.

what parts would I need to print in order to get the clamp on stand like the one in the first picture on the very left? I cant see any of the thumbnails for the STL files and need a small simple phone arm.

DL it then browse through the entire files... open fusion 360 and look for what you need... I am in the process of modifying all the parts as the tabs are very sensitive to printing deviation and also ease of printing and functionality. If the owner don’t mind, I will group them and maybe upload them as a GROUP so it would be easier for people to download and print instead of wasting 2-3 hours looking, printing wasting resources and guessing which part is which...

IF printing STL file;
Clamp down with tab print it 101.2%
Clamp up print it 100%
Short knob 98%
M5x25 97.5%
M5x65mm 97.5%
Base 100%
Straight Arm 100%

IF it was modified on fusion 360, on Cura scale and print;
Clamp with tab is the bottom Clamp (10%)
Clamp up is top (printed mine at 10.7%)
Knobs Short (9.5%-10%)
M5 nut (printed it at 10.5%)
M5x25 is the bolt (printed it at 9%)
M5x65 is the clamp bolt to clamp down (9%)

I have not printed the C clamp, C clip and screw so I AM JUST GUESSING that the C clamp can be scaled to 98% as I did shrunk the rest of the parts and they all fit with no fitment issues (snug fit), after trial and error for 3 days...

I used Hatchbox (195° E), TacTink (190° E) and 3D Solutech (220° E) PLA.

Good luck!

The drawing with legend in images would help identify objects.
Fusion 360 is not a good option to view STL. "Print 3D" included in Windows 10 is much faster.
If you have tolerance issue, it's always better to adjust xy expansion in slicer instead of scaling the object.
Not sure why you need to do 10% scale from Fusion 360, maybe you are working with a wrong unit.

Great project! I was about to make something similar, and figured it would be easier to steal yours and modify.

Used it to make a mount for a mini wide angle camera for use with OctoPi.

Here's the remixed project, it includes case, bracket, and a couple magnetic mounts:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2785451

Modular Magnetic Mini Camera Mount
by RJGII
Comments deleted.

any chance you could add an STP file for the c-clamp?

It was created with mesh bolt. Not much point to upload it.

Jak to posegregować? Za dużo plików.

where is M5_knob_long for the phone clamp?

It’s a legacy version no longer needed. You can find it from the original remix source.

Comments deleted.

Never mind you already did that. Good Job!

would love something for the pi camera

Take a look at remix section. You might be able to find it.

the phone clamps are too shallow and the angled things on the top and bottom bits don;t grip the phone very well. they could be a bit longer/deeper to better hold the phone.

If you have a thick case on your phone, you can find deeper clamps in the remix section.

I've done better screws and nuts. They are more stable and fitting better (for me)

Check it out if you have problems with your screws - Checkout https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2762681 or attachments

//EDIT: Also designed a Long Knob for Modular Mounting System

Nuts & Bolts 65mm & 25mm - Ø 5mm - 0.8mm & 1.5mm Thread Step
by saixo
Long Knob for Modular Mounting System - NO HURT GRIP
by saixo

Dude! these work like a hot damn! much love!

looks great. I am happy to help somebody :)

Small comment, your nuts are a little fatter than the original so much filing required to the parts i'm trying (about 0.5mm)

Pics attached

i did them 4.25mm instead of 4mm. It is fitting better for me in the slider. Had to press it inside a bit with a pliers but its holding better for me. You ran in problems with it?

Yeah my anet a8 is producing them at 4.5 so having to remove material from the phone mount peice. But your nuts and bolts are fitting together beautifully, printed at 0.1 stood them up on end to print

did you calibrated your printer well? i mean 0.25 is not much but when printing higher objects you will run in problems i guess. Maybe it's the bed level. I could do some variations when i am at home

Yeah i'm pretty happy with my calibration (finally! - has taken a few weeks since building it)

All the pieces fit together fine for me from within the original, and like I say your nuts and bolts fit together perfectly, its just when trying to use your remix with the original parts they wont fit quite. I think it must just be different printers being unique - which printer(s) are you driving?

I am using a Tevo Tarantula and Ender2

I love this, but this M5 Screws are a mess ^^ they get printed out fine with 100% infill but they do not fit in the nut nicely for me. The screw always break when i screw them in the nut

I had to increase infill on the C-clamp to 40% to make it last. And it is much more sturdy with honeycomb infill as I get as default in slic3r than the square infill from Cura. I am using 40mm C-clamp.

Thank you for all the hard work you've put into this project. I was having issues getting the 40mm C clamp bolt to screw into the 40mm C Clamp arm. I found I was using too many shells (3). I've now successfully printed one out with the following settings.
Layer Height 0.2
Initial Later Height 0.3
Line Width 0.4 (nozzle size)
Shells 2
Print speed 15mm/s
Travel 80mm/s (only matters if you're printing more than 1 thing)
No support

Hope this helps someone else who's having issues.

Do you print it without support?

Actually you don't have to change the shell thickness. You can make the bolt diameter smaller by changing the XY compensation value in slicer.

Great work. These files have just saved me a whole weekend of CAD modelling. Thank you.

Comments deleted.

This is a really cool system, but I have a design question. What advantage do the gaps in the arms give vs. using a solid arm with some % 3d infill (e.g. slic3r's 3d honeycomb)? I printed out a couple 150 arms as solids (they print a lot faster without the extra perimeters and shells needed with the extra surface area) and they seem sturdy enough.

The two extra walls make it stiffer. But I did it mainly for aesthetics. Solid arm is too bulky.

Comments deleted.

Hi. I added balljoint detals https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2727801

Ball joint for Modular mount system
by dcat84

This was very nice to make, many respect for the designer. Because I did not know which part to use for this design I made a part list for anybody to use.

Hi, a lot of people are still struggling to recognise the parts although I already put link to your drawing in the description. Do you mind if I put your drawing in my images? I will add your credit on the image.
Cheers

Thanks for your contribution!

thx very much!!

what are the pieces for a camera stand but instead of camera a phone?

You need Phone_clamp_holder.stl, Camera_mount.stl, and Camera_screw.stl

he really did a great job

Comments deleted.

What settings should I use to print the nuts and bolts? I haven't had a successful print. Do I need to print from outside in?

Recommended setting for the bolts are in the description. Try 15mm/s or 10mm/s speed. Or adjust XY compensation in slicer if they don't fit.

OH MY GOD I NEED THIS I AM A YOUTUBER... sort of, check out Eric Wells on Youtube

Comments deleted.

Can this be printen using a printer with max build volume of 120x120x120 mm?

And what is the highest printing resolution that works with the screwing and stuff?

It's fine for most of the parts. The flat stand and 150mm arm won't fit.
It's good enough to print with 0.1mm layer. 0.2mm is also ok.

Impressive design!
I'd like to remix it to make an appendable music sheet stand.
Could you please provide a source file ending in STEP format (or freecad could be awesome) so I can make it compatible?
Because I can't edit it properly from STL nor OBJ
Thank you in advanced

Thanks! The obj files are a bit confusing for some people as well. I uploaded some step files instead.

Thank you, mate! You are the best!

I truly love the ingenuity! This design is exactly what I need for a variety of projects I have underway! I intend to make one within the next few weeks. Anything that I need to know before production?

Thanks! Just read through the description. It should help you avoid some problems.

Hi I wanted to ask has anyone tried to increase the height by adding number of connecting links. I am giving it a try right now.
basically i want a highter vantage point for the caera when kept on a table looking downwards

I noticed in the pictures that there is a more rounded knob but i dont see that part file for it. if you could direct me to that I would very much appreciate that. I like the knob included but I am looking for a more professional look and the bumps are not coming out great.

Thanks!

The old one is not as easy to use as the knurled one, so I took it down.
You can search for GoPro knob to find similar models.

hi, i made one !!

great project , résolution 0.15 with PLA !! thank's a lot
with DroidCamapp, i have not to buy another webcam.... than'ks a lot man !

Benoit

You are welcome :D

hi,
great project !
i try it, i give feedback in few days
thank's

Comments deleted.

Hello!! What is the file that contains the G-clamp screw (It seems to be thicker than an M5) and the final nut in it?
Thanks for the project!!

I Love it!! Thank you so much. Just started printing.

Support is required to print the g clamp. Why not extend the bracket to the edge?

maybe if you make a drawing, we will get your idea.

Hi. Excellent design !
I've made a remix of it to fix it on a telescopic foot: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2429112
I hope you will find it useful.

Fixation téléphone pour pied téléscopique

Great work! I was thinking about a similar thing. Thanks for designing it.

Comments deleted.

It was just lovely searching through the comments trying to figure where the screw was for the G-Clamp. You are literally uploading this for the whole world to use. I don't know the specifics but instead of asking the author to take it down, you could have simply asked him to reference you in the details page.

In the end, more people would be downloading and using your creation. How is that bad?

I'm coming here for the same reason I like this design but unless I missed it I can't find the screw or the clamp that presses on the table for the G-clamp.

BTW, just a question, doesn't Creative Commons - Attribution license you set allow sharing work?
I thought it needs some other license if no sharing is permitted.
I was just trying to make it more convenient for people. I personally don't benefit anything from it. The screw only got a few hundreds of downloads if it make you feel any better.

Comments deleted.

Nice grip but everything is thrown to one and not exactly clear what i have to print ...

which screw goes with the g clamp? also which part is used in the fourth picture connecting it to whatever it is being connected to?

Would it be possible for us to get a list of parts that we need for the first few examples shown in the pictures. I like the idea, i just don't know what I need to create a functioning part. So a list of what was used is the main picture would be very helpful! Thank you!

The list on the bottom of description page tells you the function of parts. You should be able to find out what you need checking with what the stl files look like.

Thank you for this great design. Would it be possible to have the g-clamp 10 mm wider? It doesn't fit on my Ikea bed :D

OK, silly me. There is one in the Remix section. all good :D

Thank you ! Great mounting system !
If I want to let my phone cover the phone clamping is not thick enought, 5mm more would be perfect :), I didn't succeed to open the .stl file in Solidworks, could you send me another file format ?
Regards
Christophe

Great design! - works great for my cell phone

HI, nice Design i Love it. In the first picture are 2x Arm_v3_60 for the body?

Thanks! Yes you are correct.

The flat stand is too big for my print area, any suggestions on printing separate pieces?

Feel free to remix a separated flat base for people with small printers.

Can anyone help me?
I want to edit some parts in autocad but I don't how to convert a stl into a dwg file.

Changing the .stl to .dwg doesn't work

Someone help me please!

This is a great print! Trying to use it to set up my phone to record the 3D printer, but had a slight bump when it came to using the Phone clamp... I am not quite sure how the nut is supposed to fit? Any help would be great! As I said other than that this is an amazing print!

Nevermind, Just slightly resized the nut and it works great!!

Thanks! Refer to the assembly image. Slide the two parts of clamp together. When the two sockets meet, insert the nut from bottom.

I did a remix of the clamp, I made it bigger to fit my note4 in an otter box case, should fit any iPhone plus also.

GREAT DESIGN!!!

You might consider making a bigger phone clamp for the plus sized phones out there.

Thanks for the feedback. I just updated the phone clamp to v3 before you post. I modified the position of nut to work with 65mm bolt. It extends 10mm longer at the same body, which should cover 5.5 inch phones with case now.

What bolt do I use for g clamp?

Awesome thing! What would be your recommendation regarding infill / shells / material?

Standard 3 layer wall and 20% infill should be sufficient for most of the parts. I won't recommend "Line" type infill which change direction every layer for these sort of structural parts. "Grid" or "Rectangle" infill is stronger than "Line".
The small parts like bolts and nuts should be printed at 100% infill. PLA is good enough.

the clamp can handle a kindle?

Nope. It's not wide enough.

This will be my first attempt at trying to make something functional, so you're design looks amazing! I am sure I will enjoy attempting to create this thanks will upload progress.

This is an awesome system / design. I have found that to hold a wide phone (e.g. OnePlus3), a screw reaching to the max-length of 65mm was needed.

I went ahead and created one using the NUT JOB tool but don't know how to shave off the 'bottom' third of the rod/thread length like you've done in the included .stl's to make it better/easier to print with supports. Can you share with us how you did this?

Thanks again!

It's a shame that the bolt is not long enough. I thought I covered phones at the size of 5.5 inch.
I import the stl into Rhino and convert it to polysurface. Then apply Boolean difference function to trim the teeth. I'll upload a 65mm bolt with trimmed teeth.

Slight problem...the m5 nut is freaking massive lol. As in it's 80 mm across. Idk how big it's supposed to be but something tells me that's not right.

The nut is directly generated by the generator. I didn't have this problem. But the size should be 8mm.

I downloaded it again and had the same problem. I just assumed it was supposed to be 8 so I scaled it down and it worked.

I got the same problem in Simplyfi 3D, but the problem were that the program taught that the nut/model were to small and asked if i it were incorrect and if it should translate it to inches instead of mm. So i reloaded the model and said no to that suggestion and the nut is loaded in normal M5 size.

Comments deleted.

Where is the other part to the G clamp? It does not seem to be included?

ok i see the link to the original g clamp. I just print off the screw and pad and it will work with the modular mounting system?

Yes. The demensions are all the same.

everything that is supposed to slide together or interlock needs to have a 0.2mm offset on either side to compensate for the 0.4mm orifice printing directly on the vector path. For example if you have 1 part that slides into another, you have 2 sides on each part that need 0.2mm offset to ensure proper fit. That's 4 sides that need the offset for the tolerance. That's 0.8mm total of material blocking the fit so it just won't slide together.
|<edge(0.2mm)center>|||||<center(0.2mm)edge>|
|<edge(0.2mm)center>|||||<center(0.2mm)edge>|
|<edge(0.2mm)center>|||||<center(0.2mm)edge>|
|<edge(0.2mm)center>|||||<center(0.2mm)edge>|
|<edge(0.2mm)center>|||||<center(0.2mm)edge>|

0.8mm dimension difference is a very conservative number. Probably big enough for all printers and slicers to work.
I personally likes a smooth slide without any wobble so the current tolerance is set quite small after a few test prints. More resistance also helps the screw to hold the phone more securely under extreme situation such as bike mount.
Honestly if 0.8mm is needed for the slide to work, either the slicer is not optimised or the printer needs calibration.
I might make a version of the phone holder with more tolerance to work for more printers.

Comments deleted.

Could you make some kind of a "kit folder", for the methods showcased in the photos, as this is really confusing me?

What do you mean by "kit folder"?

A folder that has only the parts required for one use

I see. I think I'll make a list to group the individual parts according to function.

I added a list under the description section. Hope it helps.

That section helped me a lot. Thank you for doing that.

Comments deleted.

This looks amazing, I will definitely use this instead of trying to get a tripod in a good position near the printer.

The gopro style mounts may need a little work. They fit SUPER tight. I can't get them to fit without a little heat.

Thanks for the feedback.
The dimensions in model already have decent tolerance. The connectors work great while printed vertically.
While printed horizontally however, the three-tab end could be printed thicker than it should be and being too tight, and there are two reasons for this.
One is support z drop, which the layer is lower than it should be because it is printed on support with z distance gap.
The other reason is that layer thickness setting increases thickness of the model. Slicing at 0.2 layer height, the 3.2mm piece could get sliced as 17 layers due to its position.
I lay the arms horizontally because that's the only orientation making the tabs reliably strong. But it is harder for dimension precision. I'll try change spacing for horizontal tabs to work better.

Good job!!!
I can´t find the screw for the G-Clamp

Thanks. As mentioned in the description, you need to find the screw in the original page of the G-Clamp.

Thanks for your reply and sorry. Now the G-clamp is printed but I can't find the Phone Clap down to complete the phone mount.

You can find "Phone clamp down grab.stl" in current files. There might have been a few minutes of me updating the files so the file is missing in your downloads. Sorry for that.

Awesome thingi mate!
Thanx a lot for sharing this with us, i appreciate it a lot!
Maybe you'll add a Tabletmount for (small?) Tablets in the future? Would be awesome, too!

Tablet is quite challenging due to its size and weight for this module. It will probably need a more "heavy duty" design if running on a suspended arm. But a adjustable stand on desk is quite achievable with the current arms running parallel.

I was working on something similar, but I think I'll stay with your design. Looks great!

Thanks, mate!

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