Customizable Linear Bushing / Bearing - LM8UU, LM8LUU, LM12UU, LM12LUU, LM16UU, ... IGUS like

by sasdensas, published

Customizable Linear Bushing / Bearing - LM8UU, LM8LUU, LM12UU, LM12LUU, LM16UU, ... IGUS like by sasdensas Mar 25, 2017

Design Tools


A part of these Groups

View All

Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

10803Views 2877Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


Update 2017-06-14: After 3 months and 4kg filament, i couldn't recognize any wear to these bushings, printed in PLA. I used one drop PTFE oil per bearing in the beginning and the bushings are still wet. For me, they perform much better, than the IGUS Japan bushings.

With this customizable design, you are able to create bushings, that will be printed in an optimal way. You can set the inner and outer diameter, the length, the extrusion width, number of perimeters and number of teeth.
You can find a more detailed description above each variable in the MakerBot Customizer or OpenSCAD file.
Please leave a comment, if you have any questions or problems!

Do you like my things and do you want to support me? You can use these links if you want to buy something, like the filament I used for this thing. Thanks!

Gearbest: https://goo.gl/xXeJr5
Aliexpress: https://goo.gl/UWYJY8
Banggood: https://goo.gl/AHHSrq

Print Settings


Anet A8






Extrusion width (not the nozzle size!) and # of perimeters should be in sync between the Customizer / OpenSCAD and your Slicer! Check the pictures how it should look like, before printing.


Best way in my case is to choose the bushing where you can push it in with some effort on the rod and slide it by hand without any tools. Then slide it back and forth along the rod, until the bushing has the expected behavior. I suggest you not to use any drill or heat. The sliding of the bushing generates enough heat from its friction against the rod.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Customizer is the easiest way to take great 3D printable designs and make them your own. Make your OpenSCAD designs infinitely more valuable by empowering the community to customize them.

App Info Launch App
Customizer Thing App

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

How to do this for Anet A8? The ones I did became great!

what is the best setting for Cura software to print the bearing

I don't have Cura installed. But if your slicer has a preview option, you should check the perimeter as you can see in the 4th picture. It is important, that the extrusion width and perimeter is the same as in your slicer. You don't want any infill, because this can destroy the round shape of the bushing. Only use perimeter without gaps between it. For layer height, you should choose the smallest possible, s.th. between 0.08 and 0.20mm. Temperature and speed depends on the filament and hotend/extruder.

Printed a pair of LM8LUU
Working as a charm, very silent.

Your prints look amazing. Nice work.

Looks awesome! This may be exactly what I've been looking for! Been wanting to build a hyper cube but don't really want to use 10mm rods and super expensive bushings... This would allow people to still use the normal hypercube parts and just make the printed bushing have an 8mm inner diameter instead of 10! Awesome!

Actually I have replaced all the china LM8UU bearing to the expensive IGUS RJ4JP-01-08, but they are to loose on the rod. Thats why I programmed this customizable design to print my own bushings that perfect fits. And a printed LM8UU costs only about 3g of PLA.

Mar 25, 2017 - Modified Mar 25, 2017
MKSA - in reply to sasdensas

The Igus are designed to be used with the right sized smooth rod eg. 8mm h7 and for the low profile one to be press fitted. In that case there is virtually no play. Igus clerly document the way it must be mounted for best results.

As for PLA, there are tens of similar bearings published here. In fact is easy, 5 minutes, to do. The real issue is they won't exhibit the qualities of Igus polymer, will wear out quickly because of non flat surface (round filament), may bind because of incorrect alignment.

On the other hand, properly made bearings using Igus filament (careful adjustment and finish using for eg. a good reamer) will have minimal friction, play, no binding, long life without lubrication similar to the factory ones.

Bronze bearings sinterd iron etc...are also suitable but requires lubrication.

Mar 25, 2017 - Modified Mar 25, 2017
sasdensas - in reply to MKSA

My rods are h6 smoothed and hardened steel rods from https://www.dold-mechatronik.de/Praezisionswelle-8mm-h6-geschliffen-und-gehaertet-ZUSCHNITT-bis-1200mm-1300-EUR-m-025-EUR-pro-Schnitt
But the RJ4JP-01-08 are to loose + they stuck on the rod (they don't move alone throw gravity). The whole X-Idler segment will wobble against the bushing and will cause more tolerance in the x and y axis. This might be no problem in the y axis, or maybe not in the x axis, but the problem will be the z-axis of a Prusa i3-like printer. But the printed one flies over the rod and have no noticable play.
About the wearing I will use some PTFE or machine oil. This should prevent some heat through friction. I see, that you also have some IGUS-style designs. Do you use any kind of lubrication?
I will also try print some bushings with iglidur filament from IGUS. I have three samples from them to test. But I don't think that they are better than PLA. These are advertised to be stronger as ABS and they should be printed like ABS.

I don't use any lubrication.
I don't have any wobble because first I eliminated its cause. All my bearings are of my own made with Igus filament. I kept the Z linear ball bearings but replaced the SS smooth rod by hardened one of the correct size. The play then is minimal (0.05) thus vibrations due to the X carriage high acceleration have no effect and no binding at all while with polymer bushings because of the impossibility to perfectly align the two Z smooth rods on a Prusa frame, there could lead to some binding. In fact to validate some ideas I had, I removed the two smooth rods and just used the lead screw (TR8 whose quality surprised me) as lead screw and guide using specially designed Igus nuts (no play, no backlash). It was working, but I had to drive my Z motor to the max because of this lack of // leading to extra friction. Would work with a better frame, more rigid, box type. I am looking at it but for an other kind of set up than the Prusa.
Even the bearings of the idler are made with Igus filament and running on Aluminum 4mm bar, same for a bearing in my extruder. Indeed Igus bearings run well on anodized Al. In fact too smooth a rod is not advisable.
The advantage in this hobby is that by making one's own bearings we can perfectly match them like in the old days, reaming, scraping, burnishing.