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sybu

E3D v6 hotend mount for Creality CR7, CR8, CR10. Modular Snap-In design

by sybu Mar 25, 2017
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Hi there!
Just wondering if the print cooling fan you have is controllable through software?

yes the part cooling control is from the slicer software,
the hotend cooling is permanently running, connected directly to supply voltage, not controlled from software.

perhaps also look at my newer design

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920346

E3D v6 Hotend mount for Creality CR7, CR8, CR10. Support standard and Volcano heatblock
by sybu

Thank you your share . E3D Volcano is better than E3D V6 for filament flow . But the J-head Hotend is longer

thank you for printing and sharing the photo
yes the design was not for the volcano heatblock. when i look at your photo, it seems that this heatblock is much longer in z-axis, than the original blocks.
the whole assembly, with this heatblock will probably not fit the printer as the nozzle will end up below the buildplate.

i dont have a volcano heatblock, but will order one, and adjust that the hotend mount is moved (up in Z-axis) to accommodate the increased heatblock height, and also that the part cooling fan is better aligned. Otherwise let me know what the exact distance (mm) is between hotend last fin and bottom of nozzle, and i will see if i can adjust.

I have a huge favor to ask, could you modify the probe holder so I can use it with my fang. I need it more towards the mount plate and extended a bit. Here is an image of it on my machine that might help to get what I mean. https://imgur.com/a/cioUz

i would rather modify the front to fit the generic fang design. send message with email. i made a highly experimental mod, for testing -

Great design, e3d v6 fits wonderfully! Only problem is the cooling seems pretty lackluster, I've noticed that the left side of models get very little cooling and the right side seems fine. Any chance of a rework in that area?

thank you for feedback, yes, the part cooling can be improved as you have observed. i have also noticed that, ideally 2 fans - one left, one right should be used as in higher end printers, but with the smaller 20x20 or 30x30 form factor, but those are not so easy to source (specially the 24V versions), so decided to stick to the standard, easy to find everywhere 40x40mm type. But there's not really space for 2x 40x40mm , i already looked at that, so started to experiment if I should change the existing shroud cooling profile, to wrap more around the nozzle, or split into 2 paths.
will post update if this progresses to something that is actually functional and useful

Looking forward to any progress you make! I added a make, the last picture shows how much trouble air has reaching the opposite side. I think something like a Fang or even a diiicooler would be great! Thanks again for the neat design!

i have been experimenting more with the fang like design, the diiicooler type design obscures inspecting and observing the nozzle

So far this has been the ONLY mounting solution that has worked for my E3D and cr-10. Thanks for the hard work and model. I made mine from PETG as I wasn't sure if PLA would handle it.

Great! thank you for letting me know.

Hi

I've printed the components, but this is my first mod and I am struggling to fit the pieces together around the hot end, can you give me some assembly directions, idiot's guide style (me being the idiot!)

i have changed the front part design for much easier snap onto the back part.

i cant see Z-endstop , how did you wired the inductive sensor?

Yes, the Z-endstop switch has been removed. The inductive sensor is now also doing endstop.
this can be configured in Marlin, this it what I have set Configuration.h

// The Z_MIN_PIN will then be used for both Z-homing and probing.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN

This sensor is wired to the same connector where the switch was.
the wiring uses a voltage divider
for wiring followed instructions from Thomas Sanladerer Video '3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation!' https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcGFLwj0pnA around 3:40
but remember his video is for a 12V printer, my Creality has a 24V supply, so the the voltage divider is different.

also remember as the probe is to the left, outside of the buildplate, I recommend that safe homing is enabled, otherwise you likely to crash the nozzle into heatbed.
In Marlin, Configuration have a look at this
( this will prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside bed area)

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING

How did you add auto leveling to the CR-10? Did you have to flash the firmware?

yes flashed the firmware (i have CR-8)

can you provide me your config.h and config_adv. files? or did you get the data somewhere?

yes, can. i modded Marlin 1.1.0-RC6 - 24 April 2016. will send DM