Pergo VER 2 Robo3D R1 (and plus) true 370 mm Y rails upgrade

by Pergo Mar 31, 2017
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Can I use the more readily available pre-cut 500mm length 8mm smooth rods or must they be 508mm?

Amazing!! Ordering the 600w 110v heater now to breathe new life into my Robo R1+. Is the NeoCeram necessary? Can we not just use the glass bed that came with the robo? Also you mentioned that you can now print 15" in length.... how is that possible since the heatpad you linked is only 12 inches long?

Some of the heat radiates farther than the length of the heater. I have 2 pieces of glass. The Neoceram and a tempered mirror on top of it..

Yes the 15 x 10 in robo glass is perfect. I would recommend a second piece of glass on top of it personally I used cut mirrors but understand that they do shatter at 87C. I do print a lot of ABS plastic but I do leave the bed at 80° C. I do get perfect adhesion with abs I think it's because the two pieces of glass are maintaining a more uniform temperature because two pieces of glass hold heat a little bit better. you're not relying on the heater to be 100% uniform with its temperature because the two pieces of glass are spreading the Heat. Reading the comments farther below you'll see that the main reason for me using the neoceram is that it is the flattest piece of bed you'll ever see and with the piece of glass on top of it that gives me my 3D print surface.

I tried out the 300W version of the heater you used and mirror glass from Lowes... The glass SHATTERED on the first PID tuning cycle to 90C. I guess it is only working for you because have it sitting on something else.

i am going to try and find some tempered glass at a local store.

Glass is ok.. I print abs with bed of 80C
PLA bed of.70C
Glass shatters at 87C
I don't believe that the glass itself can support if it's just one piece you should probably use two pieces or use a mirror which is tempered glass but that still shatters at 87° C also

How's this still performing? I saw your original ver1 post back when I first got my Robo R1+ and marked it for revisit should I ever need to replace my bed. Well, I took a print off today and up came a small groove of glass with it. PETG has some grip! Remembering your post I came and discovered you've since improved upon ver1 and now have ver 2.0. How's it holding up? This will be my first major upgrade beyond some minor tweaks and stuff. I'm looking forward to it and hope you don't mind some PMs and cries for help :D The groove on my current bed isn't awful so I've got painters tape over it for the moment to keep on printing until I can get the parts and get to this upgrade. I'll probably dive into it after Halloween.

My last version is SO much better no regrets. It's lighter and easier on the Y stepper motors. I can print much faster with less wobble. I see no reason for a version 3 because I'm in love with this last and final release.
One thing I do.see is that with the longer Y movement, it does put a tad more stress on the pillow blocks. My next BIG project is to cast a set of pillow blocks in Aluminum using lost PLA method.

My current bed is my NeoCeram which is FLAT as flat can be! But I found that It does chip easy over.time plucking prints off of it. So with its stability being so flat, I had a.tempered mirror cut at Lowea cut into 6 10"x15" pieces as a wonderful print surface !

With the above.. I'm EXTREMELY happy. I can even get a good 90c bed temp on the mirrors. Regular 1/16" window glass cracked at 76c.

why don't you do a tutorial?with video?

Hmm.. I have it all together now. I'd have to take it apart. As I mentioned in the above, with a tight fit which is a good thing, you almost have to destroy the end to take it apart. or settle for a so-so fit.

I'm glad I held off on printing the V1 ends...LOL I ordered the rods and belt, and have a 1/4" mirror cut to size for the bed (optically flat?? Easy to tell...). The only thing holding me up was the heater - shipper needs a little lead time, so I kept my machine stock until it comes in. Something you might want to look into that I was exploring earlier and showed an immediate improvement: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2213625 . I'm using this along with mesh leveling. Forum link, follow from about page 53 on: http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/marlin-firmware-upgrade-1-1-0-rc8-rcbugfix-for-r1-r1-plus.5806/page-55 . Thank you, Sir.

Robo 3D R1+ counterweight

About 2 months ago I too had large mirror from Lowes cut and yes I've had the bet heated to 93C many times and no cracks.
Standard 3/16" window glass seems to break around 81C-85C at least 3 pieces from my lot of 4 did.

Oh ya.. Since you turned me on the that new firmware also I've had nothing but wonderful results with printer movements.