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jessevl

Ikea Eket CoreXY (SmartrapCore inspired)

by jessevl Apr 1, 2017
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Hello. Is there a list of how many times each piece has to be printed? It would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

So I can see from the pictures where the Y end-stop is located. But where does the X end-stop go?

It's most likely on the print head itself. Most CoreXY printers are setup that way.

this design looks pretty universal. I could take these files and use it in a larger box right? Would just need to adjust the rod lengths accordingly?

Absolutely! Be aware that stiffness is very important for good results so keep that in mind.

Agreed. Do you have a BOM for this build?
Nice thing you did was add the f360 files so if I need to use 10mm rods, I can easily change them

The BOM is a couple of comments down from here.

Yeah. Saw that before and blanked it out in my head.
Did you use PLA?

It is indeed PLA. I don't use a heated bed so that's fine, might not work if your bed is heated.

can i use bigger rods to get about 320x320x320 right? Great job

What measures you made to cut front to make a hole? Thanks!

Edit: I was slicing parts to print and blower comes really big, can you put correct dimensions please? :)

Hi Bruno,

  • If the dimensions are off it should be either divided by 10 or 100 (wrong conversion from mm/cm/m).

  • For the hole in the front: the Ikea Eket has a solid frame and a hollow inside, if you start cutting from the middle of the plane towards the outside you will notice once you get to the solid part (about 2cm from the outside). I cut right along that solid part, but you can change the dimensions and make it bigger or smaller, that does not matter.

Can you upload source files?

Fusion 360 source files uploaded. Beware that a few of the files are edited/remixed from STL (sources files not always available) and thus not as clean as they could have been.

How you made Z axis placement ? Like... how you found the middle or how you found the measure to fix rods?

If you assemble the Z axis as last step, you can align it so that the print head is able to reach both the front and the back of the build plate (except for maybe 1-2cm).

roughly how much does this set you back?

BOM (as posted below in the comments) amounts to about €200 (excl PSU).

Have anyone a BOM for this printer, i want to build one. I have order an Eket but now i dont know which rods i need.

No guarantees (might have some mistakes), but it should look something like this:

Mechanics:
Ikea Eket
8mm rods: (ordered at Doldt)
Z:30cm x2
X:22.1cm x2
Y: 27.2cm x2
5m gt2 timing belt
3x GT2 Pulleys 20 teeth
20 x 608zz bearing

Screws:
M3x25
M3x16/15
M3x10
50 x M3x20
100 x M3 nuts
M3x35
M8x20

Electronics
Controller board (whatever you prefer)
Power supply
4x nema 17 stepper (1.7a)
Stepper cables
E3d v6 clone (head) + bowden
4020 blower
50mm fan
22x22cm bed aluminium
3x endswitch (PCB type) incl cables
Z probe LJ18A3-8-Z/BX
Extruder (bowden) complete aluminum

I've been looking for my latest printer project and I have been wanting to mess with a CoreXY design so this is perfect. I've already got most of the hardware to build it in my stash so I think I all I need is the bed and to pick up the Eket from IKEA at lunch today. I printed most of the parts last night and the rest are finishing up now so if I have some time tonight I can start fitting stuff together.

Awesome, let me know how it goes!

Hi Jesse,

first of all, thanks for your work, resulting in this design, i´m currently printing the parts of the printer and the L-Slider STL seems to be broken, i tried to slice it with slic3r and cura, both with the result that between 15.3mm and 30.1mm the stucture is broken/missing. I repaired the file with netfabb, Maybe you want to update your files. I attached the file to this comment, as i printed this stl successfully and maybe some more people could do with the repaired file.

Best regards

I had the same problem with simplify3d

That's odd, haven't had the problem myself in Cura (2.5 at that time I think). Thanks for providing the fixed files though, appreciate it!

I spent around $80 yesterday getting the Eket and the rest of the parts I needed that I didn't already have in my stash. I've got a lot of friends who are interested in getting involved in 3D printing but don't want a big initial investment. I've been working on a low cost delta after I got burned by Tiko to prove it can be done right at a reasonable cost but I've been wanting to mess around with the CoreXY design because I'm familiar with it because of the "H-Bots" we use at work (automation company). Once I get this thing together and printing It's going to be my platform to go from to try to lower cost without having an impact on print quality. A good winter project as if I don't already have enough going on working 60+ hours a week LOL

How far along is the build? :)

The belt paths from the motor GT2 pulleys to the XY joiner don't seem to be parallel to the rods. Thus the movement will be skewed and non-linear. It could, in theory, be compensated in software, but the calculations are rather expensive (although it's simple trigonometry).

You're absolutely right, I realized this as well. I haven't found any noticeable effects on the prints however (even though I'm sure they must be there). I'll look into what the effects would be in terms of print results.

Would like to see a video of the printer at work :-)

Nice design! Can you also share the printed profile?

Is it possible to Mount a standard heat bed?

I already found the profiles in the things list

This looks fantastic! I love the idea of using the IKEA box as a frame. I really might have to do that myself as my frame isn't 100% perfect. Did you cut that portion on the front out?

I'm exited to see prints. I may switch over to these parts if it goes well for you because I'd love to use those bearing covers for better belt alignment.

The front part is indeed cut out, finished off with a printed profile. Other than that, no modifications to the box itself. Have had the first few prints, but still some fine tuning to do (all electronics are new, no prior experience with building Marlin myself). It's getting there :)

I really like the design of this but I just tried to print the left y slide and the part that holds the lm8uu bearing is separated from the rest of the part.

That's why I was hesitant to put the designs up there without testing. Indeed there was a mistake in there which I fixed but hadn't uploaded yet. I've also redesigned the carriage to be only 25mm wide (saving a lot of X axis space).

I'll upload all latest files this weekend, and they do seem to work now (put mine together).

No worries, I'll be looking forward to printing out the new set.

Updated all part and included a photo of my own work-in-progress.

Thanks they look good. By the way what size print area are you getting with the Eket box?

It's about 17,5(x) x 21(y) x 18(z) cm, which is actually pretty good considering the size of the box. Z could probably be optimized a little further even.