CR-10 duct fan mod

by Nexi-Tech, published

CR-10 duct fan mod by Nexi-Tech Apr 2, 2017
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CR-10 duct fan mod by Nexi-Tech is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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It's looking like original part but its longer and angle of air is exactly where is should be,now air blow just under the tip off the nozzle. Original part was to short and air was blowing to much up. Easy to assembly just re-screw on the same spot like on original air duct.


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What did you put on your bed?

fits pretty good I did have to sand down probably .1mm off the top to get the screws to line up. Also watch the tightness of the screws, I went right through and cracked the screw hole on the backside not realizing it was already flush, but backing it up and re tightening still held it in place. edit: using the pla included with the printer.

Put this on and while it works better the wipe command on the cr-10 now causes it to drag across the binder clip on the bed. I think that I will have to disable the wipe command. If someone can suggest a better duct fan that give better clearance I would take it. Would a fang mod clear this problem up?

Move the cling
Or do not print so far on the edge or glue the glass/mirror

Yeah yeah I'm going to try and move it so that it does the drag further up I'm not starting close to the edge it's just that it does the wipe right near the edge

this duct fits just fine and does a great job. I like this one because it blows on the print instead of just the nozzle. I've noticed significant improvement with my first layer with this mod. There's no more hoping that the filament won't curl up and get stuck to the nozzle like it did before the upgrade. Overall I'm happy with this mod... Thanks to the creator

Thanks for this design. I installed it, seemed to work better than default. However when I was printing a large flat tray, the right edge lifted off and curled. It was a long narrow piece and so more vulnerable to the effects. It was OK on the opposite side of the print, because the blower doesn't get to blow under it.

Which tells me that your angle may be off, it actually blows UNDER the print. Just something to take note, maybe it's just me, but I would be watchful for other reports of this. I've since removed this mod and am now working on installing a "fang" duct instead.

I wonder if did you figure the issue you were having..

Just a note that newer CR10s might have different tolerances with the screw locations that cause this duct mod to be a tiny bit lower than the print nozzle. I ruined a couple of Hairy Lion prints before I realized the duct was crashing into the hair support and knocking it loose from the bed.

I leveled my bed and set the nozzle height before installing the mod. While trying to debug this problem I realized the duct was hitting the bed. I have my bed springs loose so I didn't notice the compression of the bed by the print head.

It's amazing that other things printed fine, but I guess it depends on how the slicer generates the gcode that moves the print head.

Not true. I have the CR-10S and the nozzle is at least 3mm lower than this duct mod. Don't know why your nozzle is perhaps too high? but as far as on my printer it's definitely lower and would hit the bed way before the duct would ever have a chance to...

so it does fit the Cr-10S?

Can confirm that this is lower than the nozzle. I bought my CR-10 in December.

I wasn't referring to the CR10S, but the plural to CR10. I don't know what has changed on the print carriage of the new model CR10S but I know the motherboard is totally different.

the CR-10S comes with dual Z axes and it has new motherboard and a filament sensor that stops the print if you run out of filament. That's it. Everything else is the same. But thanks for clarifying what you said. I read it wrong

Would it be better to run this fan mod or print a fang fan mod?

What are the size of the fan?
I have a CR7 printer

works alot better then the stock fan bezel. I was able to print the over hang test to 85 degrees with minimal stringing at the 65 degree marks and everything else was near perfect

What fan speed did you use?

I'm printing in an unheated basement so at full fanspeed on a long flat print I could hear the pla cracking as it hardened quickly so I had to bump it all the way down to 50

i am generally using the standard settings based on the CR10 user groups CURA profile in the files section. I am guessing its 100% after layer 2.

This is awesome but it has a design flaw. The original has rounded corners on the tabs where the screw go in to mate with the rounded corners of the fan. Ill use a dremel and make it work but fyi for those looking to print this and wonder why the screw hole do not line up.

Funny, my ABS print was FAR better quality than the stock unit it replaced. :) I was a bit surprised.

I encountered the rounded corner problem with this model too. I recommend using the remixed version below this comment.

I used my finishing file and zipped them off and it fit great.

That's because the Air from Hot-end fan(front) and Air from Cooling fan(on side) was colliding inside X carriage cover and create so called Air curtain which blocks most off the air blowing in the printing part. Now air blows directly under tip off nozzle where it should be for PLA prints but now that affect ABS prints because ABS don't need any cooling(in most cases) Even if you turn off cooling fan completely OFF Hot-end fan will still blow at 100% rate on the hot end and most of that air will blow at the print.
That makes ABS material to cool down to fast and cause bad quality ABS prints on CR-10. This problem can be solved by installing small buck converter on the 12V fan and then lower the speed of main Hot-end fan to the point that barely blows but still enough cool down the Hot-end. That will make ABS prints rock solid and way better than before.
Same Technique can be used on main fan inside control box cause its way too loud and spins way to much unnecessary. There is automatic fan on power supply so there is no worries that lowering RPM of main control box fan will cause any problems.
Not to mention that Heat-Bed can't warm up to at least 90C to get proper ABS print but that problem is solved by installing insulation cotton sheet under heat-bed after that Heat-bed can reach 100C so you can avoid to use enclosure.

Thank you!! I just got my CR-10 and noticed right away that the part fan blows much to high on the nozzle. All other fan ducts look to be for the older hotend shroud, which is apparently to long for the newer version like ours, but it seems that you have hit the nail on the head, my friend. I will definitely be trying this tonight and will let you know how it goes. Thank you very much!

Think its far enough away from the hot end to print in PLA?

Yes. I print mine in PLA 100% infil.

Just realised it wasn't just the grill that was changed. Ah well.

Trying this tonight !!