Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!

PRUSA I3 MK2S FULL KIT V3 UPGRADE with Chain Link and 4 bearings IGUS for X-axis and Heatbed + Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S MODS Firmware version "3.0.11-RC1" 05/05/2017 (HEX FILE+SOURCE)

by TESLA3DTORE, published

PRUSA I3 MK2S FULL KIT V3 UPGRADE with Chain Link and 4 bearings IGUS for X-axis and Heatbed + Prusa i3 MK2/MK2S MODS Firmware version "3.0.11-RC1" 05/05/2017 (HEX FILE+SOURCE) by TESLA3DTORE Apr 3, 2017


Remix of https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7LAo15HdTe7-rambo-chain-link-for-mk2s
Author : https://www.tinkercad.com/users/7Z01p6EVg8r-aaron-yourk



THE UPGRADE of 4 BEARING IGUS 15 mm V4 will arrive soon and resolve all the issue so don't print V3 and wait few days the V4 model....

Stay Tune

Print Settings

Printer Brand:



Prusa Mk2






0.1 to 0.2


30 to 100%


1) Heatbed cover part1&2 and cable chain and hinges must be in ABS or PET with 0.1 resolution and 100% Infill

2) Rambo enclosure and door in ABS or PET with 0.2 resolution and 30% Infill (cube or honey)

YOU NEED 33 cables chains -> 21 for X axis and 12 for heatbed but print 2 or 3 more it's easy to broke one ;-)

Custom Section


NEW NEW NEW UPGRAGE OF THE SOFTWARE FOR MK2 TO MK2S Prusa i3 Firmware version "3.0.11-RC1" FROM the 05 MAY 2017 !!!!!!


" configuration.H " :

define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 1 // (seconds)

define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 1 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one

define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

" configuration_prusa.H " :




define Z_BABYSTEP_MAX 3999










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Hi news download for MK2S_4_bearings_X-Carriage_Cable_Chain_V4 ? thanks


look here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2241656
not finish but you can edit it on tinkercad

Prusa i3 mk3 mk2 mk2s X-Carriage Cable Chain Editable

I think there is a problem with the part MK2S_4_bearings_X-Carriage_Cable_Chain_V3_part2.stl
Half of it are missing in my slicer... even before slicing.




Looks great - except for the text on the parts. I would rather have a version without.

Thanks but wait the V4 that resolve lot of problem and i notice that i will put part without TEXT like that everybody will be happy to print the model he want....



Would love to use this but there seems to be a problem with the bearing x-carrage covers and holder, they completely blocks the holes for the rods to come trough.




I know that there some problem and i'm making the V4 version that will resolve everything and there will be only 3 parts to print!!!
I will release in 2 or 3 days so stay tune...

Comments deleted.

there's an extra piece in Aarons too next to the rambo box that I didn't understand what it was.. it's missing from your set here so I presume it wasn't necessary.. what material and print settings did you use? Yeh I'm using igus drylin bearings, but they should be the same as the std metal 15mm bearings. it's only the ones with the bonded aluminium case that are 16mm and different.. Oh hang on FOUR bearing? you're adding a fourth bearing on the lower position by the extruder? Now that would improve things , and I have a couple of spare bearings too :)




Yes you just need the parts that I put in this kit....

I use Red Ruby PETG filament from PrusaShop or USA (https://atomicfilament.com/collections/translucent-petg/products/ruby-red-translucent-petg-pro-1)

240c hotend and bed 90c all layer

Layer 0.1mm 100% infill for all the small parts and enclosure and door layer 0.2mm 30% infill cube

My 4 bearings X axis upgrade for 15mm igus or metal bearings and 16mm bearing ( old igus ) will be release tomorrow. I Just need to finish some precision in design and print that to be sure everything is ok

The original X-axis from prusa I3 mk1 or mk2 use only 3 bearing to reduce the friction using metal bearing but since igus bearing are more and more use now it's better for stability to increase to 4 bearings so that mean 2 bearings per rod...

Next upgrade will be the Y axis with 4 bearings too and thermal isolation put in sandwich between the aluminum carriage and the MK42 bed with some magnet like that you can use some very thin metallic sheet with some PEI sheet and remove more easily part like ABS from the bed like the flexplate (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UaIIuiiKReo) but not for 125€ but for 25€

I just checked in here , then a minute later you replied.. great news on the four bearing carriage.. I used those same settings just in ABS not PETG.. have only printed the 30+ chain links so far and they aren't finished, very slow printing 30+ in one go at 0.1mm layer.. but I'm not in a rush and I'd rather they were strong and good quality than fast.. I have some black PETG though so I might just use that for the rambo box etc.. less brittle than the ABS for the larger thin walls of the box for sure.. I can print all the parts in one go, I just need to work out how to do different fill % on different parts that are printing together, or just swallow 100% infill on the door too.

Hi again,

Use simplify3d and choose different process...


And yes it takes amazing time to print all the part... I thing 48h minimum for all...

For ABS use 285c hotend and 110c bed in open space mode and you will see the difference... it's what prusa use in there farm but bed is 100c for them because they have 50c of air... trust me i use more than 1kg of abs to achieve these parameter... 0.15mm first layer and 0.65mm for extrusion and 20mm/s speed... and the most important is to put in the starting script that you put the Z axis to 200 like that the pinda probe will not warm to much and loose precision and upgrade the hotend fan from 30x30 to 40x40 noctua( no noise) and reverse the direction of air. You take the air from the pinda side and remove hot air left side of the X axis... I plan to make a RS model release in the end of this month with design, filament parameter that WORKS and software upgrade with hysterisis température to 1c for hotend and babystep will be positive too, can change position of pinda xyz and Ymin from -2 to -4mm like that no problem of calibration XYZ. Increase from +- 50um to +-200um the bed leveling correction for worst bed and increase print speed with correct extrusion/speed parameter for gap, first layer, infill, solid infill,... for example I print in 125mm/s in all filament infill but perimeter are in 40mm/s and using smooth system from slirc3d prusa model I print minimum 50% more fast than original parameter from mk2 or slirc3d from prusa.... RS model will be awesome

well I'm a newbie at this and as I'm on a mac simplify is no use to me unless I want to work in parallels, so for now I'm happy with slic3r and tinkercad... I have a full copy of rhinoceros,which is overly complicated, and what I REALLY want is a copy of the recently deceased autocad 123design for mac. as it's discontinued the download link to the app-store is dead, but if you know anyone who has the mac install disc image to install it I'd be a very happy bunny.

Re fans I have some yeah racing turbo fans from my R?C stuff. not silent, but not bad, dual ball bearing and SERIOUS fast air movement, easy enough to bolt on and turn around to move air in the other direction. didn't realise heating up the pinda probe would affect it's precision..reversing the fan is an easy enough solution

S3D has a macOS version - not sure why one would need a vm for that.

really? I looked on their website and could only find a windows download not a mac version...

https://www.simplify3d.com/software/ says:

— Windows XP or greater
— Mac OS X 10.6 or greater
— Ubuntu Linux 12.10 or greater

...and I am using it all the time. So, yes: really :)

Is there a photo of all this assembled. I was following nillabeans original video and looking on Aarons tinkercad page and I don't remember seeing different clips like the two you have labelled with a Y and an E .. are these both for where the chain attaches to the rambu box itself?


Look the last design of Aarons in tinkercad and you will see that it's come from him. Yes these clip is to attach on the Rambo box... I finishing to upgrade the X axis carriage with 4 bearing igus 15mm or 16mm and make more stronger the attach part from the rear carriage and the chain link...

well I printed up the rambo box and all the chains etc.. two small issues, first moving the chain attachment point on the rambo box to the other side of the USB socket adds a fair amount of sideways twist to the chain. For now while I wait to see what you come up with on the 4 bearing carriage i've printed the simple top part from the original design , warmed it up with a lighter and bent it 15º, gives the clearance against the rambo box needed to hit the endstop and mostly eases the twist to the chain.. you might want to think about an angled mounting point for the end of the chain on the extruder mount..secondly had to wrap a cable tie round BOTH the mounting points for the cables on the rambo box.. in the PETG the points just don't seem to be solid enough and with the flexibility of the PETG the cables kept popping off, worse on the X axis with the twist of course.. not a big deal, but some strengthening wouldn't hurt.
Acquired simplify3D.. awesome.. actually downloaded a couple of profiles from the prusa forums and works superbly..

Hi Gizmatron,

I've make some upgrade of the end part like you ask me... I put a picture how to connect X-carriage and chain link... The position of the X-axis chain link in the rambo enclosure is on the right of the usb connection due to the futur upgrade of the multi material for mk2.... I've have print and test and works better now with this upgrade...mk2s-X carriage_cable_chain_v2_part3.stl

Cool.. I was thinking angling the mountings but extending the arm works even better, plus it means no need to reprint the rambo enclosure.. can't wait to see the four bearing mount.. are you testing prototypes of it or is it still in the design stage?


It's in design mode but I will ask the community to print and give me feedback but 99% sure that everything will fit..

Next upgrade is 4 bearing igus 15 or 16 mm for Y-axis using the original aluminum carriage... For next week

My Y axis has the bearing holders from here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1848700 printed in PETG with 100% infill.. works perfectly and I have absolutely zero play ... tried ABS first time but it split as soon as I tightened the bolts into the screw holes.. I'm printing great now, no play,no issues, and with some insulating feet almost no noise either.. been setting up profiles in simplify3d for different materials.. PITA to have to edit the damn XML file but once I worked out how to transfer settings so they work per material and not per quality or global it was relatively simple. Got PLA, ABS, PETG, FPE flexible, Nylon bridge, POM delrin and PC-ABS all printing perfectly... got PC and TPU left to test and set up but looking good so far.

Prusa i3 MK2: V2 holder clips for Y-axis' bearings (LM8UU and igus drylin RJ4JP-01-08)

THe 4 bearing upgrade of X cariirage is ready to print for test.... Let me know if there is some problem or not...

OK I'll just finish what I'm printing now and give this a spin see how it turns out.. all you need to do is integrate this with the titan mount and we have everything lol http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2065461/#files

and my other comment is flagged for moderation whatever that means ??

Prusa i3 MK2 Upgrade kit for E3D Titan Extruder by S±E

OK printed this up but couple of immediate issues.. firstly the holder for the top two bearings has no location grooves to fit the slots in the actual bearings so the bearings are held but can move left/right.. there is 2mm of play.. I haven't actually mounted it yet but I can see the bearings moving back n forth and making noise, and the whole point of the mod is to hold bearings without movement right... second I don't understand the picture showing the block and the support arm for the chains? I'm assuming the shaped peg on the arm fits into the identical shaped peg on the lower bearing holder.. ? But if I do this the cable chain mounting is in the wrong position for the chains to attach and run vertically? In Aaron's original design the two plates the chains actually attach to are more on the top rather than the side of the arm...

EDIT.. OK i've been playing with this a bit and I can get chains to fit by reversing the first two links but that won't work and clear the rambo housing so nope.. the arm is wrong..doesn't fit very tight into the slot either.. can be glued.. which I did to test .. lol so i'll have to reprint the bearing holder too .. so nope.

1:- top cover part 2 could do with capture grooves to hold bearing rigid and stop left/right movement, I think in the cover will be enough , don't need to reprint the main body
EDIT on this. after looking at this for a while all it needs is a tiny central web to space the bearings apart.. gap is 2mm . fill that and the bearings will be held securely against the ends.
2:- arm part 1 needs the cable chain attachment to be on the top not the side and it needs to clear the rambo housing or we won't hit the endstop switch. look at this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2044060 although his cable guides are a waste of time as they're no way big enough to take ALL the wires, but nice idea, maybe worth incorporating something similar but large enough to tidy all the wires into.
3:- the fit of the arm into bearing holder part 3needs to be either tighter or there's already a hole there, it's at an angle bizarrely not straight , so why not straighten it up relative to the arm and add a tiny screw through there into arm to hold it... be better than glueing anything as it will remain dismantle-able

My thoughts so far.. small points but work in progress and it's almost there

i3 MK2 X-Carriage with Screwed Bearings and Cable Chain
by A_R_B
Comments deleted.

Hi Gizmatron,

All the modification that you ask is done..... Tell me if now everything is correct... I remix the bar from A_R_B ;-)

OK it works.. actually it works VERY well. two things.
~ONE:-the remix you did of the top bearing cover to stop the bearings moving has some issues.. somewhere you changed its shape externally too and it not only is REALLY tight on the bearings but doesn't hook properly at the bottom. In the end I used the original one and fitted a 2mm O-ring between the bearings.. stopped the movement and added a fraction of cushioning too.. and fitted perfectly. I'd either go back to the first one you had.. OR what that one really needs is a 2mm center web to hold the bearings apart and against the ends, but my O-ring solution is fine. It's also possible that it will just work anyway and that my worries about the bearings moving was unfounded, I never actually tested it like that.
TWO:-it's nigh on impossible to trigger the X axis endstop switch no matter how you route the wires.. in the end I glued a piece of nylon I had lying around on the bench.. about 1-1.5mm thick on the end of the carriage opposite the switch,redid the Z calibration and works fine.

Overall a superb upgrade. I was having some serious binding issues with the X axis, dry graphite lube solved the actual binding but it sounded horrible, even though it wasn't sticking it SOUNDED like it was grinding and juddering and without regular lube it would layer shift. Course you have to be super careful not to dust the bed with the graphite, it gets everywhere and kills ANY bed adhesion.. Now its smooth,silent, awesome, even without the graphite. with the lube it positively glides along.. thanks for this , was fun getting it to work. Was expecting gluing on the bit of nylon to trigger the endstop to give me some kind of issue with the self leveling etc, ie not finding the sensor points but zero issues so maybe just add 1.5mm to the thickness of the carriage where it faces the switch. test it yourself and see..

ps I'll do a proper "made one" comment with photos and credit tomorrow

wow fast work dude.. i'll look and print later..what did you change on the upper bearing holder? thicker walls at the ends to hold the bearings together? cause I don't see any central web? and are there any actual changes to the main body part 1 cause if not I won't need to reprint it?

EDIT.. printed the two covers and the new chain arm but left it while i was out and the filament spool jammed and caused a bad layer shift on the x axis as well as poor layer bonding due to reduced extrusion. attempt number two starting now..



Comments deleted.