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Malcy

Anet A8 Bed Level Upgrade

by Malcy Apr 3, 2017
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Mine bump the frame in the back when homing Y, and it moves the screws unleveling the bed. Great idea, maybe make a little tiny smaller?

Same here, but only the right one, the one that is closer to the Y home switch.

I ended up dremeling them and they're fine to work with now

Stucks with the frame. Hard to mount the nuts. The height of the bed is changed to to high. Its a nice idea but doesn't fit.

Stucks with the frame. Hard to mount the nuts. Poor design.

Leider ein Fehldruck. Zu klein für die Flügelmuttern. Man braucht die Drehknöpfe aber auch gar nicht wenn man unter die Flügelmuttern Unterlegscheiben legt wird es Kinderleicht die Muttern zu drehen.

Slight fitment issues, nothing that couldn't be fixed easily. Love how easy it is to level bed. Thanks!!

Same issues here, too big for the frame, too small for the nuts...

I had the same issue. The wingnuts made it flare out, that in turn caused clearance issues. Nothing a little sandpaper and hobby knife couldn't fix. I love the ease of bed leveling now, huge improvement.

The knobs were significantly undersized for my wing nuts.I forced them in and the knob flexed quite a bit. the stl contains one knob and 2 spring caps so its not easy to print them at different infills. and the back knobs are too big to fit through the cutouts in the frame. I would suggest finding a different knob for your printer.

What filament did you use? How do you get yours to look matte?

I'm using Filamentum PLA from 3D Filaprint.

It's the only PLA ive ever used and never had a problem with it.

Thanks! I'm using Hatchbox but it is really glossy and when i turn the temps down for it to look matte it is brittle.

I just put mine on and they hang up on the frame. Gonna have to sand them down.

it worked perfect for me and i have no problems with levelling my bed it says level now for many prints

Thanks
Malcy

just printed it and found a major issues:

  • All the knobs got bend after inserting the wing nut which causing a real hard time spinning it
  • The two back knobs stuck by last acrylic body (i used a regular M3 nut to lock it)

i would suggest to look for another bed leveling system!

Same issues. Sanded a lot to fix.

This looks great but my only concern is that with the constant contact with the bed those cap will definitely deform. I'd think it would be better to use a countersunk washer or an aluminum spacer.

TBH this has happened with mine but I haven't done anything about it, it was more about the adjuster than the spring cups.

I have tried to redesign is so the cup has a hex recess to fit the M3 nuts but my CAD package just won't export it so it works.

Thanks for these, they are perfect. As others have mentioned, it was a tight fit. I heated the wingnuts up and pushed them down into it with a screwdriver.

I also put the nut inside the top cup, I used a flat blade screwdriver against the side of the nut to get it really tight. Used a dremel to widen the cutouts on the rear frame so they could pass through.

I'm really keen to see this used upside down for fine-tuned Z-stop adjustment too now. This should be a mandatory upgrade for Anet A8 or similar style printers. Just night and day when doing bed levelling now.

I had to sand down the rear left one to get it past the frame.
The wing nut was a little large for the slot, but if you drop the knob in boiling water for a few seconds it fits really well.... squash it back to shape and run it under the cold tap for a super tight fit
Great time saver
thanks

Really handy - the thumbwheels make adjusting easier but most usefully they add enough friction to the nuts to stop them backing out. I used to have to re-level after every print, but now it seems to be good for 100+ of hours of printing before redoing the bed level. This kit is a huge time saver! I might even put a tiny drop of HT silicone gasket on the top of each thumbwheel to add even more friction...

I had to grind my frame a little bit for the wingnutknobs.
Easy leveling - thanks!

Since the kit consists of a set of bushings and nut, how do you split the infill? Also, some say that the nut hits the left rail. Does yours? And if so, can you split out the bushings from the nuts?

Thank you for a great build.

the knob on the right side of my bed hits the front frame of my anet a8, can anyone help?

It does on mine as well. Time to find a new knob.

Excellent design and those spring cups are also a nice touch. Much better then the captive nut knob. Just printed four sets. Waiting for my upgraded GT2 belt to arrive and then I will install. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the great comments. Glad you like it.

What are the Threaded Rod holders that you have in the pic?

They will be for securi g the A8 to something solid to help keep it square.

I haven't fitted them yet but when I do I'll add them on here

The stl file is broken...

Wow, does this ever make an improvement to the bed leveling process.

The print came out perfect, fit the spring and the wing nut perfectly, and easily the best upgrade I have done to the printer yet.

Thank you!

Thanks for your comment. It is a much better method of adjusting the bed. I have had an issue with my upper spring cup deforming. I'm trying to do a redesign but it might be possible to use an M3 nut and washer to clamp the spring cup against the bed.

Does not fit the wingnuts that came with my printer, too tight.

Well that could be for a number of reasons. Printer calibration - mine is pretty good, a 30mm cube comes out at 30.02mm (with my verniers). Make of wingnut - They might not be the same as the ones which came with my printer. Slicer - Different slicers seem to give different results, I use CURA 2.3.

Perhaps you could increase the scale slightly in your slicer, maybe try 105% or something, see how it fits???

Thanks for the feedback

Yeah seems like the wingnuts are different, after a bit of filing they fit (filing the wingnuts)

Great news :o)

Many inverted faces, some slicers may have trouble with this.

Does this work with PLA?

Yes. The parts in the pictures are printed in PLA.